[A/S] door issues

[Dan Gerous <dngreenlee@xxxxxxxxx>]

<SNIP>
  <Joe scrieb>
Hi Steven,
I can't answer all the questions about the rest of
your trailer, but thinks to this list, I can offer
some information about the door being sprung. 
  My guess is the door came open while being towed
down the road, and slammed again the side of the
trailer. This causes the door to straighten out, and
not fit the curve of the trailer any longer.
<SNIP>

  Joe's 2X4 trick works OK as long as the frame is
intact. 
 
 On mine, '66 Overlander, it wouldn't work as the
frame was broken just above the latch and just below
the hinge dogleg. 
  I repaired mine with JB Weld and internal aluminum
splints. I had to remove the door's interior skin and
devise a tensioning system with wire, stand offs and
turnbuckles, that would keep the door on the correct
contour and the breaks closed. I had some aluminum 1/8
inch bar stock which I trimmed and bent to fit the
contours of the door frame. I positioned the splints
and drilled through the splint and frame twice on each
side top and bottom and tapped the frame for a #8
machine screw. I cleaned the mating surfaces and
clamped the splints in place on a bed of JB Weld and
put the screws to it.
Cost of the materials was less than ten bux. It's held
for two years so far.
   DanG
    '66 Overlanders, 
      '65 F250