Re: [A/S] Hi, I'm new here

["chyde" <chyde@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Rose,
I run a vehicle development business in Upstate NY and we have done a number
of complete "ground up" restoration/refurbishments on Vintage Airstream
trailers for clients. My wife & I also own 5 currently, ranging in ages from
1950 through 1966. Before you get to far into the remodeling of your trailer
you must check out the floor rot situation very very carefully. Airstream
trailers are constructed utilizing the Semi "monocoque" (from the French
meaning "one shell") technique. This means that the aluminum exterior skin,
aluminum ribs, aluminum interior skin, plywood floor, and steel chassis all
work together to create the overall structure of the trailer. Failure of any
one of these components, or connections between these components can cause
catastrophic failure of the complete structure. The main aluminum body of
the trailer sits on top of the plywood floor which in turn sits on the steel
chassis.The connection points of these three main components is around the
perimeter of the trailer (last 1 1/2" between the skins). The floor is also
fastened to the steel chassis at various other points throughout the
trailer. If this "dry rot" you speak about is anywhere close to the
perimeter of the floor, that floor section must be removed and replaced
properly. In order to do this the inner wall sections must be removed in
that area to gain access to the fasteners within the wall that connect the
base of the wall to the floor and through to the chassis outriggers. These
rot issues are caused by any or all of the following; leaking window seals,
leaking exterior skin seams, vent joint seam leakage, plumbing system leaks
(even very minor ones) leaky door seals, black tank connection failure,
potable water tank failure, results of frozen pipes from previous owners
that seep continuously, minor dents in the bellypan in the "banana wrap"
area that caused the plywood to splinter within the wall. You should keep in
mind that AS didn't use wood preservative on the plywood floors so it rots
very easily. It is not uncommon to see what appears to be a small rotted
area in the front or rear of the trailer which actually requires a complete
floor section (approx 4' X 7 1/2') to be replaced in order to regain it's
structural integrity. Poke a sharp screw driver into the floor right next to
the wall all of the way around the perimeter........you might be very
surprised. We have seen this many times. You should also check the ceiling
for popping rivets. If the floor/chassis/body connection is compromised in
any way the whole structure will "rack" back and forth while traveling down
the road which causes rivet heads to start popping off. A very severe case
will even cause exterior rivet heads to pop as well. These severe rot issues
can also be found along the sides as well. An easy way to check this is to
press down firmly with your feet next to the wall. If there is any flex,
there are likely rot issues there also. In affect, the bottom of the wall is
no longer connected to the floor, allowing the floor to flex downward
relative to the wall. The issue of the frame rubbing through  just behind
the wheels is probably apparent elsewhere as well. The part of the frame you
see there is the end of the outrigger (it is welded to the main frame
rails). If any of the above floor rot issues are present or if the rivets
holding the bellypan to the chassis are loose or popped, the bellypan will
shake back and forth relative to the chassis and wear through the aluminum
bellypan, right along the sides. Other trailer manufactures have very heavy
steel chassis's then mount a non structural aluminum or fiberglass "box"
with wood internal ribs. These companies are not generally relying on the
body for support so the floor wall connections are not so critical however
their products tend to weigh more than Vintage Airstreams. The next thing
that can compound all of the above potential problems are your axles. If
they have sagged beyond their limits, your suspension travel has been
reduced considerably. If you continue to travel with sagged axles, the body
& interior fixtures will literally shake themselves to bits. A simple way to
check the axle is to crawl underneath and check the angle of the torsion
arm. If they are pointing down towards the wheel spindle, they are probably
OK however if they are level or pointing upwards, your axles need replacing.
Hopefully this didn't scare the heck out of you, it's just that I've seen to
many of these that were beautifully "renovated" but still had major
structural issues that need attention which required much of what these
people had just redone to be pulled out in order to repair it properly.
Colin Hyde
WBCCI, VAC, 10247
GSM Vehicles Inc.
Plattsburgh, NY