RE: [A/S] black tank

[Garnett Horner <garnett@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Scott,
The black tank is removed from above.  In my situations, I replaces the
plywood walls so that made removing the tank easy.  I would try removing
the aluminum trim pieces from around the plywood.  Once they are removed,
the tank, plywood floor, and toilet should all be free to be lifted
vertically.  If it doesn't lift then I would recommend removing the plywood
wall that intersects the rear window.  With that wall removed, the black
tank can be removed.  

Now, regarding the vent.  My original vent hose had broken in about 6
places.  I managed to fish out all of the pieces between the inner and
outer skins.  I added a new roof vent and used, I believe, 5/8" ID
reinforced hose.  I did an orver kill and used hydraulic hose which is thin
walled so it made it easy the snake through the wall.  But, to get the hose
through the lower portion of the wall required removing the lower inside
aluminum skin.  This is the piece that's next to you when you're on the
throne.  An Airstream is like a gigantic puzzle.  To get that skin off, I
had to take the shower pan out.  So, to make a long story short, you are
better off taking the plywood wall out, removing the shower pan, removing
the black tank, now remove the side skin.  I believe you can remove the
plywood wall without destroying it.  Remove all of the screws going into
the floor and pull the panel out of the aluminum wall channels.  Leave the
channel in place if you can.

Regarding the gray tank, I just finished putting mine in.  I got a 27
gallon tank from coast.  It's dimension let it fit between the two main
trailer beams and two cross pieces.  So, I cut away the belly pan, used a
grinder to remove a small steel angle that supports the plywood floor.  Now
the cavity is completely open.  Measure the opening and get someone to help
you.  Have a steel frme welded that's about 1/4" smaller than the opening.
This steel frame I had made from 1.5"x1.5"x.25" steel angle, cheap stuff.
I can make a sketch of this and email to you if you're interested.  After
you ghet the steel frame made, insert into the cavity and fasten to the
trailer.  I used fasteners and didn't weld.  Again, I can go into more
details regarding the fasteners if need be.  So now there is a steel frame
attached to the trailer.  I had drilled and tapped the steel frame for 1/4"
all-thread to support steel bars across the bottom of the gray tank.  I
used 6 equally spaced bars to support the tank.  The bars are supporrted to
the steel frame with all-thread.  It's good to use all-thread because the
bottom of the tank slopes in two direction, making each length of
all-thread different.

I will be at the Harpers Ferry Rally with the Vintage Club and the WDCU
next month if anyone is interested in taking a look.

Garnett
60 Caravanner, 2878