[VAC] Re: New wiring

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Robert/Susan,

I just removed the refrigerator from my '69 Safari so I have first had
knowledge of where the electric line exits through the inner skin and that
it was only accessible from the outside hatch.  The exit through the inner
skin is almost at floor level with the supply wires encased in a protective
covering.  The line leads directly to a standard receptacle and box.  The
refrigerator plugs into the receptacle with a standard cord/plug.  With my
unit, the entire area behind and on both is sealed form the interior of the
trailer for obvious safety reasons involved with burning propane.  Supply
air enters through a screened opening in both the belly pan and the floor,
flows over the condenser coils and up through the plenum and out the roof
vent.  Of course, my refrigerator is electric/propane.  Using an electric
only would be completely different.

With regard to using light bulbs to heat the compartments during cold
stints, I'm considering just installing the usual heated strips that have a
thermostat in the strip to heat the pipes when the temperature drops.  Won't
help when the trailer isn't hooked to shore power, but would certainly help
in other situations.  I have access to the entire plumbing since all the
interior is removed so this type of fix is very easy.  Locating one or two
outlets for the heater strips is another issue.

Using solid copper wiring should not pose a problem if the wires are
properly secured.  I may have mentioned this before that stranded wires will
carry a much higher current safely than a solid wire.  The BX cables that
typically attach power from a stationary electrical box to machinery in
motion or vibration are usually solid and I haven't noticed broken wires.
Of course, the cheap copper wire available today could prove my statements
completely wrong.

The boating wire seems like a really good suggestion.

                                                      Regards,  Joy