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Re: [A/S] I pulled the Arogsy home today!




The original plumbing was/is all copper. Replacing it all will be a 
major undertaking as much of it is buried under and behind. During 
construction the electrical and plumbing are put in place in the shell 
before any of the furniture is installed. Not impossible just a real 
project.

> 2. The walls are sticky with tar from smoking. All of you have given
> several really good ideas. I am going to try a few of them out
> tomorrow.

The sticky stuff is more likely the result of the vinyl interior finish 
breaking down from prolonged heat exposure. This is a very common 
condition in any of the vinyl interior coach years. The fixes suggested 
will work well.

> 3. The brakes do not seem to be functioning. I have heard that you
> need to have the battery installed for this to work. Is this true? I
> bought it without a battery.

The first thing to check out will be the electrical connections to the 
wheels if it is just a bad wire you may be good for the short term. 
However when it comes time to repack the wheel bearings you will get a 
chance to really see what you have. If it turns out that there are 
problems with the brakes it is strongly recommended you look for "loaded 
backing plates" rather than replace individual parts. The loaded backing 
plate, either left or right handed, consists of the entire electrical 
braking assembly with in the brake drum, new springs, new shoes, updated 
magnets, the whole thing.  Backing plates are also much less expensive 
and time consuming to install. Just disconnect two wires, unbolt old 
plate, reverse the process and finish with an adjustment of the brake 
and you are good to go.

> 4. I have a "grounding" problem with the wiring for the turn
> signals, running lights, etc... The lights inside work fine but the
> hook-up to the tow vehicle only worked once I scraped off a bare
> metal spot on the frame of the trailer.

Rather than fool with fixing each marker light I simply replaced them. 
At $4-5 each it was much simpler. Otherwise a sprayed on vinegar 
solution works well to breakdown the corrosion in the fixtures.

> 5. The guy I bought her from had bought new 30# propane tanks with
> the new adapter on them but the regulator still has the old adpater
> fitting. The lines from the regulator are stiff and should really be
> replaced regardless.

By all means replace the high pressure lines from the tank to the 
regulator with new flexible lines. And while you are at it keep in mind 
an LP gas pressure and leak down test should be performed on the coach 
before the first time you use it. If your appliances act up when you 
test them, gas pressure is a likely suspect.

> 6. The drapes need to be replaced and I have to get some of the "T"
> and "G" clips for the new ones.

Depending on your skills as a seamstress you may want to seriously 
consider having new ones made. The thickness of the pleats make using a 
home machine near impossible. Jim Ambruso out of New Port Richey, FL 
does an excellent job.
The T's and G's are available through any Airstream dealer. The G's are 
also available through many general RV accessory store catalogs. These 
are not generally referred to as Kirsch fasteners.
Kirsch's were used on 69 and some earlier coaches. Starting in 1970 and 
continuing to today the T and G styles are used.

> 7. All of the Airstream-specific weather stripping aroung every
> window show be replaced. They are all dry rotting.

The window gasket material is available through any Airstream dealer. 
The gasket is glued on with contact cement which must all be scraped 
off. The easiest way to work on the windows is to remove them from the 
coach. This is done by disconnecting the lift arms and over rotating 
them up to unkey them from the hinge anchored to the window frame. Once 
off take great care not to damage the window hinge as it can make 
putting it back on a real challenge. Make sure the butt joint of the 
gasket is at the top or hinge end of the window.  While you are looking 
at the windows you might want to check the condition of the window lift 
positioners, the plastic dodad mounted to the frame and the gray "fuzzy 
stuff" in the lift arm slots of the screen frame. They are also likely 
in need of replacement. Also available from Airstream dealers.

> 8. The furniture DEFINITELY needs reupholstering. Not only is it
> getting thread-bare but these people that owned her were not the
> best housekeepers. There are strange stains and smells eminating
> from the upholstery. :-|

That one is best handle by local talent. The original foam used was a 
heavy latex. Modern foams come in varying densities. Firmer is better. 
We went with 6" high density for sleeping comfort and durability.

> 9. The outside has rust and peeling paint on the galvanzed steel
> nose cone and tail cone. I think I should have this painted. I saw
> one of the member's posts with a link to his restoration progress on
> the exact same Argosy. I was wondering what that set him back? I
> know the paint is the last thing I should do because it has to be
> made road-worthy first.

I got a wild hair going on the outside. I just had to have it stripped 
and repainted. Ended up costing $2000 to get it done. The stripping 
process was done using baking soda. Bead or sand blasting is to rough 
for the aluminum. After stripping we completely resealed the coach, took 
off everything we could and then took it to the painter. He applied 3 
coats of block sanded urethane primer and finished with acrylic lacquer 
in the original colors. We then put all the stuff back on. Turned out 
pretty well.

> 10. The tail light bar across the back has some of the screws that
> are stripped out of the taillights. I had to completely remove one
> of the tail light covers before we left this morning our else I
> would have lost it on the road. I have no idea how I am going to get
> this reassembled.

> 11. The tail light bar across the back in starting to crack around
> the tail lights. Right in the corners where the tail light covers
> mount you can see some deterioration on the tail light bar. I will
> have to put up pictures so you guys can see what I am talking about.

That piece is a very thin plastic molded shape. You will have to fix 
what is there as no replacement is know to exist. Carefully removed it 
can be reinforced from the inside with fiberglass. Also a
wise thing to do with the AC cover pieces.

> 12. It has the ZipDee awnings but I am sure that they will need the
> fabric replaced on them. It has the one big one a and a small window
> awning on the back bathroom's window. Any ideas on how I can replace
> this myself?

The awning fabric is remarkably resilient. You might want to give it a 
through washing with awning fabric wash to remove the built up grime. 
Keep in mind the Sunbrella fabric used is water resistant not water 
proof. If water proof it could not breath and the heat build up under it 
would be considerable. Simply cleaning the fabric can restore it's water 
resistance. Replacement pull straps are available if need be. The Zip 
Dee on your coach is with very few changes the same one used today.

Hope this helps some

Charlie