Re: [A/S] Atwood WH Replacement

[Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxx>]

Ray,

The old Bowen company became Atwood years ago. So any of the 6 gallon 
Atwoods will fit in the hole. Updating beyond the basic LP pilot model 
presents different problem for each step, beyond cost that is. A model 
with 110V AC heat requires you to bring an AC line to the back of your 
water heater location. The electronic ignition (or DSI) model will 
require 12 V's at the water heater and a place to mount the inside switch.
If your water heater is the original removing it is a project in its self. 
This job is one of the prime examples of how durable Vulkem is. During 
construction the water heater is installed in the outer skin before the 
inner skin is put in. A typical installation will have substantial amounts 
of Vulkem around 3 sides of the water heater applied from the inside. Of 
course you can't get to in from the inside once the coach is finished. 
So, the trick to getting an original water heater out is to use a butcher 
knife to cut through the Vulkem from the outside.  You start the process 
from the inside by disconnecting the water lines from the back of the unit. 
Back outside you shut off the gas valve under the coach and removing the 
gas line from the valve to the water heater. Remove the door at the hinge 
clips. Remove all the screws around the edge of the heater. Curl the 3 
edges in to allow access along the edges of the heater. Then using a 
butcher knife or similar tool cut loose the Vulkem while pulling the heater 
out.  Putting one back in is quite a bit simpler.

Charlie