Re: [A/S] jack position, curtain clips

["Harvey Barlow" <harveybarlow@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Barbara,

Approximately 18" behind the rear axle on each side of the trailer you
should find a small 3" or 4" square piece of aluminum with an "X" in the
middle riveted to the frame.  That is the correct jack point.  It is a good
idea to place a block of wood on top of the jack pad before lifting to
prevent tearing aluminum skin.  Make sure the jack is carefully placed on
the jack point because if it is inside or outside of the frame rail your
jack will simply tear through the belly skin.  Most likely after years of
lifting at the point I have described you will be able to see the outline of
the frame under the skin.  I don't know if it is a recommended method but I
usually lift an A/S with a jack under the jack point and then crank up the
tongue jack as needed to lift either side high enough so that both wheels
and tires will clear the pavement.  Use jack stands for working under the
trailer of course.

An A/S dealer should be able to provide the drapery clips and there are
several drapery and upholstery shops around the US who specialize in A/Ss,
at least one advertises in the Blue Beret.

Changing or cleaning an A/S carpet is essentially the same as a house
carpet.  You will find either tack strips or glue underneath.

I don't think you damaged your truck's transmission by towing in OD.  Ford
has always recommended towing in OD with the E4OD transmission since the
transmission was introduced.  Your transmission probably failed as a result
of mileage, hard use, or lack of proper service.  I had a '91 Ford 1/2 p/u
with the E4OD that I towed some with and have used a '94 Ford F250HD
460/E4OD with 152,000 on the odometer since April '94.  Both tow in OD 100%
of the time with the occasional exception of an undulating highway which
would cause repeated downshifts/upshifts if left in OD.  The owner's manual
for both trucks directed towing in OD except when terrain caused repeated
downshifts.  I have towed a 9k pound 34' A/S over 50k miles with the '94
truck plus a loaded utility trailer/car hauler and other A/Ss many
additional miles.  The transmission developed a chatter when the torque
converter locked up in 2nd, 3rd or OD at 103k miles and I had a Ford factory
rebuilt replacement transmission installed.  An honest transmission shop
told me he could repair it but he recommended buying the factory rebuilt
because it included the various upgrades and improvements that Ford
developed for that transmission between 1990 when it was introduced and 1996
or 1997 when it was replaced by a redesigned transmission to handle the
power stroke diesel engine's enormous torque output.  The Ford factory
rebuilt transmission listed for, I think, $1795 but I called a dealer in a
small town a few miles away and told him I would buy it from him instead of
a local dealer if he would discount it.  He, being a smart young
businessman, offered to sell it for $1425.  I think that is cheaper than a
total rebuild will be.  The rebuilt transmission comes full of fluid ready
to be installed and has a Ford warranty.  I paid a shop $200 to install it.

The recent list discussion has been about Chevrolet/GMC transmissions not
the Ford E4OD.

Harvey Barlow
Lubbock, TX
WBCCI # 1171, WDCU, VAC