Re: [A/S] removal of black water tank shroud

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jim,

Guess the question is "do you have more money than time"?  It's a big job to
say the least.  Ask Harvey Barlow what he thinks.

I had frame (skid rail) damage that replaced.  I accepted other rust and
wire brushed and painted the structures to limit further damage.  Sort of
saying to myself "it will last for as long as I live to use the trailer".

Fortunately, my holding tank was not damaged from the disintegration of the
holding housing and support angle iron.  It cost me $70 for the fab of a new
galvanized housing.  I used bed rails to replace much of the rust rotted
metal.  The floor of my unit was involved with the rust of the holding tank
housing.  Water seeping between the bumper hatch shelf and the upper body
wicked into the wood floor, rotting it.  Eventually, the water flowed into
the holding tank.  Water filling the holding tank has no where to go except
sit and rust.

I cold see that the rear floor had dropped from the weight of the battery
platform and broken the floor from the bathroom panels.  Also, I could see
that the platform for the tub was about a half inch lower than the bottom of
the tub.  I couldn't see the floor rot as it was hidden by the tile floor
tile.

Would I do it again?  Yes!  That's the way I am.  Other's may not feel the
same way.  Harvey Barlow kept encouraging me and I finally got things under
control.  Sort of a plus for those list members willing to share
experiences.  Although Harvey damaged his tank, he gave me sufficient
information that I got mine out in one piece.  The rest I did on my own.  I
didn't get much help concerning making floor patches, nor replacing the
bathroom floor.  I did it my own way.  If I had the floor to replace again,
I'd wait until I'm at the destruction point that I'm at now and the
replacement would be simple! :)  So, floor replacement is a different
subject and requires  another chapter of text and many pictures to show how
I approached the task.  It can range from a simple patch to removing the
upper body from the frame.

Right now, there isn't a single piece of furniture on the floor of my
Safari!

Your service guy is going to do the job at a price that I wish I could
afford.  If they are skilled, the new gate valve is the least of your
concerns.  For example, the bolts holding the gate valve to the downstream
gray water plumbing were so badly corroded and swelled that they couldn't be
removed.  This means that in addition to the gate valve, I had to purchase
additional fittings and make provisions for connection.  From underneath,
this is near impossible.  The labor charge they quoted you seems quite
reasonable for the nature of the repair.

If you want to see some pictures of where I've been and where I'm going, I
can send them off list to you.

Harvey Barlow is working through the convenience hatch to make his repairs.
He may be able to give you more useful information.  I chose to remove the
bathroom as I had almost total separation of the floor from the frame across
the rear, including major sections of floor under the water heater.  Can't
get much more involved that that.   Other restorers have noted standing on
the ground while making the floor replacement.

This task, should you choose to do it yourself,  will take time.

                                                   Regards, Joy