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Re: [A/S] Patching A/S skin around new H2O heater



I have a similar project, replacing the defunct Bowen in my '62 Globe
Trotter with a 6 gal gas/elec. I went with the Suburban, very similar to
your Atwood.
I intend to utilize the original aluminum panel used with the Bowen, fitting
the new unit into it. I got the door for the Suburban since that is the
method for attaching the new unit securely to the trailer, but I'm not
positive yet if I'll center it in the old one for aesthetics, or hug one
side to utilize the original Airstream framework (vertical, between the
skins). I will either cover the new door with aluminum (so it matches the
polished skin) or try to form a new one, riveting in a small louver vent to
match the factory door.
Either way, I expect to install a little extra framing and bracing. 6
gallons of water doesn't like to stay in one place in a moving trailer. I'll
use some scraps of aluminum L and U channel I got from the local salvage
yard, and rivet it to the skin (and possibly the framework) using Olympic
rivets if showing outside, standard pop-rivets if not. You could use putty
tape (try  www.rvcatalog.com or www.go-rv.com or many others) or Vulkem (I
have purchased from www.airstreamdreams.com ) to seal your patch work. I
have purchased the Olympic rivets there also.   You install them with a
regular pop rivet tool. They have a dome shaped head, and as they are
installed, the shaft breaks off above the surface. The shaft is then
cut/sanded flush to the dome head, and polished if you're going that far.
There is also a special tool for shaping the stem/heads, but it's $$$ and
really not necessary if you're handy and careful. I've done over 100 without
the special tool.
I will also try to anchor the body of the Suburban H2O heater with blocking
or straps (to the plywood floor) so I'm not counting on just the in-skin
framework to hold it (via the heater door frame).
Ask again (on or off list) if you run into trouble. I'll probably be running
into it, too.

Bob H.
'62 Globe Trotter in SC