[VAC] Re: towint vehicle

[Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Terri & Michael,
 If you go with a 1/2-ton rated P/U, it should have a 3.73 axle; you'll
be very unhappy with something like a 3.07 or 3.55, and you'll want a V8
engine. The truck should have a factory "tow package", which should
include a heavier radiator and perhaps a transmission oil cooler. The
latter is easy to add, and only about $100.00 in cost, but the axle and
radiator are difficult and expensive to add after the truck is built.

For my money, I'd go with a 3/4-ton truck. It will probably have the tow
package, a suitable axle ratio, a trans cooler, etc. Most manufacturers
also use a heavier-duty transmission, heavier frame, etc.

About the only way to get "good gas mileage" in a P/U is to go with a
Diesel-powered outfit. If you elect to do this, go with a Ford or Dodge,
not a Chevy, as the latter didn't have a really decent Diesel engine
until they came out with their Duramax within the last year. If cost is
no object, that's a good rig, but very pricy; they're new enough that
you'll probably not be able to find one on the used market.

Your 26' (or thereabouts) trailer will weigh about 6000# when ready to
roll, and you'll probably add between 500# and 1000# on the back of the
truck. (a cap alone will add a few hundred pounds all by itself) Besides
the "tow rating" of your proposed vehicle, you need to look at the GCVR,
or Gross Combined Vehicle Rating. This is the truck's rating for the
entire rig, including stuff in the bed, passengers, etc. It all adds up.

There are a lot of folks using lighter vehicles to tow with, some of
them for many miles. Without knowing the conditions that you'll be
operating in (hills, hot weather, lots of miles, etc.), it's hard to say
if you'd be able to get by with a 1/2-ton truck. It isn't just how much
that truck can PULL, but how easily it can contribute to stopping, plus
how "stiff" it is. The latter is my own term, and it basically involves
the weight of the vehicle, along with how heavy the tires and suspension
are. "Stiffness" is what prevents the tail from wagging the dog when
things get dicey, like during a quick lane change or other emergency
manuever.

You're looking for a trailer that is right on the edge between "OK
behind a 1/2-ton" and "really should be pulled by a 3/4-ton". When you
get serious about looking for a truck, do some investigation to find out
what models and years of your favorite brand  had problems with....???
Then, look on eBay, AutoTrader, your local dealers and newspapers, etc.
to find what you want. Kelly Blue Book and NADA have online pricing
guides so you can find out what that truck should sell for. Assume that
you'll have to make some repairs, but balance the cost against what a
new truck would set you back and you'll feel better.

That's my opinion, take it for what it's worth.

                                               <<Jim>>