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[A/S] Underbelly patch - cha cha cha !!!




Hey Lee, you're a glutton for punishment, aren't you? It's a good thing 
your wallet is lined with green. The following suggestions are only 
that. Others on this list may have a different viewpoint so take your 
time and decide what you think will work best for you. These ideas were 
useful for me.

First, buy two 3' square sheets of aluminum at the hardware store. Use 
one sheet for the belly pan repair (you cut it to fit) and hide the 
other piece under your mattress for the next time WHEN (not if) there's 
a problem. He who is prepared solves problems before his wife even 
notices he's under the trailer.

While you're at it, buy another pop rivet gun so next time you'll be 
able to finish the job when the gun you're using jams and you've 
already burned up all the daylight. Been there, done that and learned 
my lesson.

If you didn't buy enough pop rivets for the fender well job that you 
just finished, crawl under your Airstream and take a look at the head 
size of the rivets holding your underbelly in place. Then, buy pop 
rivets with that size head. Learned my lesson there, too.

While you are at it, drag out your bottle jack and a couple pieces of 
leveling lumber. You'll need them to hold the belly pan tight against 
any frame member that happens to be in the vicinity of where you'll be 
riveting.

The name of the game is a secure fit.  Holding the new sheet of 
aluminum with your hands (wearing gloves) while trying to drill the 
holes and/or use your pop rivet gun is a trip into fantasy land and a 
waste of daylight.

If you're a bit compulsive, go ahead and use self-taping screws to tie 
the belly pan into the frame (a cobalt drill works better than an 
ordinary drill for making holes in the frame).

You could use stainless steel screws at a quarter a pop (I didn't). 
But, I definitely prefer self -taping screws with a socket head (I get 
more leverage) instead of a phillips or straight line.

Now for the personal stuff.

1 - Before doing a belly pan job, I first tow the trailer up on blocks 
as high as I need so I can work underneath it without having to extend 
my arms over my head to turn onto my side. I want freedom of movement 
so my hand can squeeze the pop rivet gun at the exact angle for the 
rivet to fit tight.

Otherwise, it gets too hard, too fast when my gun squeezing hand can't 
get enough purchase because of my awkward body position. That's when my 
hand gets dog tired and if I keep demanding more from it, it's a sure 
bet I'll start getting sloppy and I'll be dissatisfied in the morning 
with last night's workmanship. I have no intention of doing the same 
job two days in a row.

2 - If the leveling blocks are on grass or dirt, I spread out a blue 
tarp and work off it. The tarp makes it easier for me to find tools I'm 
not using at the moment or locate pop rivets I accidentally spilled out 
of the box (I buy pop rivets by the box of 500). The tarp also keeps 
the "explorer" ants out of my shirt collar.

3 - Installing pop rivets while laying on the ground under my Airstream 
means holding my head at uncomfortable angles and the next day having a 
sore neck. I don't like that.  What worked for me was a piece of scrap 
wood (about 3" high, 4" wide and 6" long) wrapped in scrap carpet 
(stapled to the wood) used as a "pillow." Problem solved. It goes in my 
"stash box" in the back of our Van when I'm not using it.

4 - If I'm doing the job outdoors, I prefer a sunny day with no wind to 
blow leaves or dirt in my face. I turn off the sprinkler system so it 
doesn't come on while I'm under the trailer.

Bottom line. The better my preparations, the fewer the distractions, 
the easier the job, the sooner it gets done and the more time I have to 
play with my other toys.

These tips are free, your labor is free and if you do a good job, you 
can give yourself a free pat on the back.

Terry