[A/S] Sanitizing and Winter Proofing your Classic

[schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxx>]

Axtually, all these longevities depend on the quality of water you are loading
(in TEXAS, that often means the amount of SAND or dissolved minerals) AND the
length of time/frequency you are using it.  iow, I have been using the same
outside filter for about 5 yrs.  but then, I have used my trailer twice in that
time.  If I were still fulltiming, I would pull out a replacement about every 2
to 3 months.

Presently though, I drain that filter and let it dry in the sun (well, NOT in
the DIRECT sunlight but you get the point). I also use that same filter for
inline hookup as well as filling the tank.

Back to the original thread, about onboard water making a person sick...
please remember that stale water can become major bio hazard.  in fact, it is
known that the commonly found gallon milk jugs of water in the store are only
good for ~ one year.  IF that long.  This same point applies to your water
heater, the water in your supply system as well as that in your filter
cartridges..  

Winterizing...

AGAIN, use about 35psi and BLOW YOUR SYSTEM DRY!!!  
[Go to the store and get a blow out connector with a splice (if necessary) to
your shore water inlet, hook it up to a pressurized air supply and then 
1. go to your kitchen sink and open each valve, blow it dry, close it and
open/close the next working your way back towards the valves closest to the
water inlet connection. 
2. Finish up with your water heater and its pressure release valve and then the
back hatch drain valves for your water lines.   Don't forget to step on your
terlet to blow that line out.
3. When you are thru, disconnect your air pressure and go back and open ALL your
valves...  Then carefully store that pressure connector!!  Finally, Leave your
system open!! ]

(of course, that has a throw back, I had to replace the washerless cartridge in
my sink faucet because it glued itself open over a three year period).

If your trailer is properly winterized and sits up for a year or more, do go
close and open your faucets periodically.  Odds are, you can close your faucets
after a couple of months or certainly, a dry season.  or, just tie a piece of
hosiery across the mouth of each open faucet to keep vermin out of your lines.

In short, I first blow my system dry, and then -- if stored North of about
Austin, TX.. I will go around and put a cup of pink antifreeze in each P-Trap. 

Finally, I will leave about 2 to 3 gallons in grey and fresh water tanks with a
10% clorox-water solution.  That is usually enough to stop stale water for at
least a year.   

Leave your back hatch drain valves open for a dry season with a bit of hosiery
on the 3/8"OD lines to keep the crawlies out of your tanks.

WHENEVER,  you decide to activate your trailer, you need to follow the
instructions on clearing and cleaning your tanks for consumption.

enough.  I am sure that this is covered far better elsewhere but I have been
writing this for a friend in Lubbock so that he can go by and do my trailer in
storage locally.  Thought that you all might like to see this also.

There are many other ways you can get sick off your Classic's water system.  but
hopefully, this message has gotten you into the frame of thought to look for, to
find and then to eliminate them.

fwiw
chas