[A/S] Re: univolt buzz, batteries discharged, water pump

["nickcrowhurst" <NickandSandra@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Ebert, a good place to learn more about the brakes is 
http://www.dexteraxle.com/service_literature/six_hundred_to_eight_thou
sand/electric_brakes.pdf  Here you get the information straight from 
the manufacturer. You seem to be concerned about imbalance between 
the brakes. I assume all the linings are evenly worn, not 
contaminated with grease, not worn out, and evenly adjusted for 
tightness. If there is still imbalance I would check that all the 
tire pressures are correct and the tires are the correct size and 
evenly worn. If there is still imbalance I would crawl behind each 
wheel in turn, disconnect either one of the wires to the magnet (wire 
nut removal or unsoldering), and place the 20 amp digital meter on 
the high amp range between the two disconnected ends of the wire, and 
note the current when the brakes are applied. If I am on my own, I 
remove the breakaway pin when the tow vehicle is disconnected. If I 
have a helper ,(ash-blonde, beautiful, and grandma to our grandkids!) 
I have the tow vehicle connected and she applies the footbrake. I do 
this with each magnet in turn, and the amperage should be the same to 
each magnet. Removing the wheels, one at a time, is not absolutely 
necessary, but it avoids having to crawl awkwardly under the wheel 
arch. If one current is way out, I would swap 2 magnets, or fit a 
replacement, and measure again. The Dexter pdf site tells you how to 
check for physical wear in the magnets. If the currents are the same, 
and you still have imbalance, I would check the individual load on 
each wheel by taking the trailer to a weighbridge, and weighing each 
trailer wheel when the unit is attached to the tow vehicle, and load 
distribution bars are fitted. My local weighbridge checked mine for 
no charge.If the trailer weights are okay, and the braking system, 
tires, wheel bearings, axles and shock absorbers are good, I would 
finally balance the brakes by making small changes to the brake 
adjustment. I do this by taking the rig out onto a quiet road, and 
doing a few firm stops from 40 mph. I then measure the temperature of 
each wheel drum. I just put my hand on each wheel, and aim to yelp 
with the same amount of pain at each wheel. If one wheel is 
noticeably hotter, I back that adjuster off one notch, let the brakes 
cool down, and repeat the whole process. If you don't like burning 
your hands, Radio Shack does an infra-red thermometer gun that you 
can point at each wheel. This can also be used to detect a hot wheel 
bearing. Good luck! Nick.