Re: [A/S] Re: Another A/C question

[MJ Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Again, if you have a 20 amp receptacle on a number 10 wire circuit, properly 
fused at 30 amps, 30 amps will come out .  This holds true for any fusing (within 
reason); a couple of hundred amps will certainly toast the receptacle.  But the 
receptacle itself will NOT limit the amount of current available, only the circuit 
protective device (fuse or breaker) can do that.  The designation of the receptacle 
as "20 amp" is a matter of the configuration of the prongs.  The ampacity of the 
circuit is a function of the fuse (including circuit breakers) protection.  The 
size of the conductors dictates the size of the protection allowable by code.  Of 
course if the wiring is large enough to carry LOTS of current, it will not 
physically fit on the connection screws of the device, but a number 10 wire (30 
amps capacity) will fit easily on a 20 amp receptacle.  In fact if voltage drop 
is an issue it is perfectly acceptable to run a larger conductor from the breaker 
panel and "pig tail" a smaller conductor at the receptacle by splicing a short 
piece of properly sized (as dictated by the breaker) to the larger and fitting 
the device onto the smaller.

All three of my trailers have standard 15 amp configuration plugs on number 10 
(30 amp) wiring.  Of course they are all vintage too.  I assume, but don't know 
for sure, that the newer units are in compliance with modern protocols and have 
"RV" configuration plugs which are superficially similar to some 250 volt 
configurations for ranges, dryers and such.  Someone not properly trained could
mistake them, as apparently happened to Hunter's trailer down in Florida.  Any 
device manufactured for sale in the US should plainly state how many volts and 
amps it is designed for.  Someone obviously could not read, or suffered from 
intercranial flatulance.

Matt