Re: [A/S] Safari's

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Patti,

Since it's a very pleasant Saturday here in Scottsburg, VA, I'll jump in
here and make a comment or two or three .  .  .  Also, please excuse my
thinking (?) in posts.

You may have a back flow valve in your water system that prevents tank water
from being forced out the city water connection.  Also, you may still have a
pressure regulator in place.  Both of these require considerable pressure to
overcome or limit if air is to enter the system.  IMHO, this takes an air
compressor/tank capable of supplying 3 or so CFM at 100 psi to be effective.
It's that mad rush of air out one faucet that clears each line.  Low
pressure/volume just won't do the job.

So, this is what I use and what a service tech used when I learned how to
winterize my Safari.  Most likely, I'll limit the line pressure to 60 psi.
Also, be sure that this type of compressor doesn't have a tool oiler in
place! and that the water heater is bypassed.  :(

I used this equipment to verify that my newly installed water system was
leak free (it wasn't at first).  I plan to apply air pressure. Then open and
close one faucet open at a time.  There should be a massive rush of air and
some water.  An appropriate slope fore or aft might be necessary to assure
all water leaves the system.

So far, just rocking my trailers fore and aft and then opening the faucet
"sucks" the water out of the fixtures and seems to move the water to the
floor level and out the drain.

My '69 Safari has a drain in both the front and rear.  I routed replacement
plumbing to assure that it drained.  The '74 Argosy only has a drain at the
rear.  I'm sure both will drain sufficient without air pressure to keep them
safe this winter.

There is one exception - the water pump!  It's my opinion that both the
filter and pump should be emptied as part of winterizing.  Goes for any
other filter canisters in your water system.

If RV antifreeze is pumped into the system via the pump with the source line
being in a container of RV antifreeze there wouldn't be this need.

The recent comments about getting the flavor from RV antifreeze out of the
water tank makes adding antifreeze to the tank or allowing it to enter the
water heater an undesirable approach.

Thanks for the opportunity to ferret out how I'll winterize my Argosy and
Safari.  Guess I do my best thinking while sitting on my .  .  .

Finally, the answer to your question is absolutely NOT.  The pump you
mentioned is not suitable for your intended purpose.  A suitable compressor
with accessories might cost between $200 and $400.  Don't consider buying a
used unit. You'll find that changing tires makes this a small price to pay
for easily removing and installing lug bolts/nuts.  Seems that this is a
frequent activity for bearing grease/brake checks.

There are pneumatic hydraulic jacks and rivet pulls that also use air
pressure.  :)

You could even fill your pool!

                   '74 Argosy, Joy