Re: [A/S] Newbee question: How necessary is a Hensley? or a Pullrite?

[schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxx>]

I took mine off two different rigs, the bow came off a Chevy pu out in FL and
the draw bar off a Dodge in Lubbock.  At the time, I did not know that the bow
and the towbar were supposed to be matched, that the width and radius of the bow
varies from one make to another and sometimes from one vehicle to another.
ditto the length and geometry of the towbar.  It just so happened that my set
fit together and that the angle of the receiver end was a  perfect match to the
bumper.  the width of the bow is a little too long as it extends about 2" from
each side behind the axle of course, but the tow bar does not extend beyond the
bumper when it is parked behind/below the right corner of the bumper.

the thing that varies is the hangers.  However, these are made from pieces of
1/4"?x2" wide steel bar or whatever and attach the bow to whatever frame
elements cross the arc of the bow or its cross struts.  They are heated and bent
to hang over the trucks frame elements and can be welded or bolted on.  On the
burb, it is rock solid. it was also rock solid on the Dodge pu I had it on
before.  I am sure that it will be no problem to mount this on the Ford VAn.  I
will find out later this week.

the price has gone up needless to say but again, I like to have the trailer
floating back there, moving a little from side to side when I slow down but not
transmitting the motion to the tow vehicle.  this way, on an icy or slick curve,
that trailer is not going to push the tow off the road the way that the Hensley
might...

The Hensley is set up to keep the trailer perfectly straight behind the puller
with the aligning force of the struts.  it does not want to sway or swing on the
ball but will follow the puller with no problem.  
The Pullrite towbar is always at the apex of the bow as long as you have pulling
tension on the trailer, so if you slow down and turn, the towbar will swing
around the bow without pushing the rear of the tow.  needless to say, we are
talking degrees of effort here. The pullrite will jacknife to the point that you
can almost park the truck next to the side of the trailer while both are still
attached on the hitch ball.  the measured acute angle would likely be about 30
degrees or less.  iow, you can turn a 31' trailer around easily in a 5 lane
street or less and I have done that with mine on several occasions. when I
realized that I had missed a turn.  quite literally, you can spin the inside
trailer tires on a dime.  in fact, my biggest problem is that the rear end will
swing wide if I try to make too sharp a corner.  thus the sign in the back
window of my trailer.

backing is different from a fixed hitch point. but, I have had little problem
with it after I got used to it.  I just really love it.  plus, there is really
nothing to break on it.  

As the Pullrite tech <http://www.pullrite.com/pull.html> told me on the phone
after I got thru talking with  Hensley
<http://www.hensleymfg.com/whatisthearrow.html>, 
if he could charge just $300 for a lifetime warranty, it would amount to putting
all of it in his pocket as there would never be a claim against the warranty.
This is the reason I want to sell my Hensley... I am not about to pay almost
$500 for a lifetime warranty because of all that one price and fact tells me.
It is telling me that there is that much to break  or replace on that hitch and
perhaps, the frequency of claims just might be -- often.   (The Hensley tech
told me that the repair bill on his hitch can quickly put you into arrythmia
without the warranty - especially when a strut bar costs $100).  Lets put it
another way,  a  warranty is an insurance policy.  if you know that something
will never break, You won't buy one.  On the other hand, if you know that it
will cost you out the gazoo if it does break, then you will buy one and the cost
of that policy will be dependent on how much the seller thinks he will have to
spend to maintain and support that policy or warranty or guarantee.  

Another thing, in comparing the Hensley and the Pullrite -  go to the websites
and count the parts on each. It is kinda like buying a US Army deuce and a half
truck with manual door locks, window cranks, etc... (pullrite) versus a dressed
out XLT with the combination door entry, and power seats, locks, windows, etc ad
infin. (Hensley).  Do not know about you all, but I do not want to think about
how many times I have replaced servo motors on my burb's electric windows.  all
that electric stuff works great for a few years but quickly enuff - you start
repairing and replacing it.  But not that 2 1/2 ton army truck !!

Also, the hitching effort is minimal.  You can back up to within a few inches of
the tongue, swing the hitch head around so that it is under the hitch and then
drop the trailer on it - tighten up your tension bars and you are ready to roll.
No blocking wheels, carefully aligning and then ramming the hitch with your tow.
Btw, what happens when you have one side run up on a ramp to level the fridge
and you need to block the wheels so that you don't knock it off that ramp when
you ram the hitch??  oh well, that is minor of course.  just nothing I have to
worry about.<G>

The choice is a no brainer to me.  important thing is - get something that you
can control the trailer with, not have the trailer controlling you.

enuff
chas