Re: [A/S] Hensley question

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Patti,

I seem to be suffering from foot in the keys or .  .  . lately, so you'll
have to take my experience for what it costs and it's worth.

I typically use a click type torque wrench with a range suitable for the
measurement.  I have the old pointer type, but prefer the click type as it's
easier to handle in a situation like the "U" bolts.  The gauge on the
pointer type would require you to be underneath
looking up to get the right readings.  My experience is from working on auto
and motorcycle engines that might be different than working on non-engine
applications.  Guess I just do it my was and try to recall the instructions
of many years ago.

Anyway, torque is supposed to be measured on clean/dry/non-oiled fasteners.
To re-torque a nut/bolt, loosen the bolt slightly.  Then, with the fastener
moving, read the pointer at 45 pounds and stop.  With the click type, just
set the dial to 45 pounds and use the same loosening-tightening technique
except stop when the wrench clicks.  It's best to shoot for an initial
torque less than the final specification and snug both nuts on the "U" bolt
as evenly as possible.  Don't get on one nut and bring it up to the
specification and ignore the other.

Unfortunately, I have to cut the excess off the "U" bolts so I can get my
deep reach socket on the nut (4 inch "A" frame rails).   When I shorten the
threaded shank, I will purposely damage the threads to prevent the nut from
loosening and falling off.

BTW, if the fasteners are lubricated, the torque readings might be far in
excess of the specification.  You could deform the "A" frame rail or spacers
that may be used with the brackets.  In a worst case, the "U" bolt could
stretch and fail.

Hope this helps.

                                Regards, '74 Argosy, Joy