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Re: [A/S] Newbie with a wiring problem
Hi Lou,
My '69 Safari and your '73 unit most likely have the identical bezel. I had
to buy new lamp bases at the Napa auto store. Where I could save the lamp
base and the socket, I purchased the pigtail replacement. Lots of work and
lots of grief! I even got a set of bezels off a '73 and found that it was
just as bad as my '69. I didn't find that the wires were all that short;
however, I did find that the wires exiting the lamp base turn at 90 degrees
and are prone to breaking the insulation. The edges on the bezels are very
sharp!
I always start at the tow vehicle fuse as you might blow a fuse without
seeing the spark. If you shorted the wire, you know the fuse will be blown.
You might use a VOM between the running light pin and the trailer body. I
think you would see "0" resistance if there were a short. Otherwise, it
should be infinite.
If the wires are too short to splice a new section, you'll have to remove
the bezel. Hopefully you have the service manual from Secretarial Services.
If not, you have to cut the rivets holding the bezel in place by driving a
putty knife between the skin and the bezel. One rivet at each corner and
the middle of each side. To replace the bezel, you drill through the trim
groove and pop rivet to the skin.
My restoration involved using a lot of vulkem to water proof the
lampbase/bezel to prevent water from entering between the skins. I used a
lot of rustoleum on the lamp bases and plenty of corrosion inhibitor on the
sockets and in the wire nut connectors. Next, I made sure that the gasket
between the lens and the lamp base was in perfect condition.
You should have an optic fiber pickup in the center of the tail light lamp
base. Just a guess! You should be able to see the orange optic light on
the side of your unit at night to verify that the tail lights are operative.
This is much more than you asked for, but it's free experience and you can
use what you like for the same price.
'69 Safari, Joy