Re: [A/S] '69 Safari black water tank and rear bath floor renovation

["Harvey Barlow" <harveybarlow@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Joy,

I didn't answer the question re: the main frame rail or the "U"strip because
I couldn't locate a matching memory in my feeble mind.  Now it is coming
back to me.  When you speak of "main frame rail" I think of the 5" channel
steel fore and aft frame rails, ie the side sections of the frame ladder.
Those frame rails were rusty in my daughter's trailer but they are, I think,
3/16" or 1/4" steel and, therefore, not deteriorated.  The "U" strip you
describe was, I think, attached at the extreme rear of the frame, from right
to left side frame rails.  It was intact in my daughter's trailer but not
attached to the plywood floor or the tank or tank support.  I'm not sure
what it's original purpose was, maybe it was initially attached to the floor
but deterioration has eliminated the connection???  Perhaps it attached to
the bottom rail of the skin across the rear of the trailer?  Maybe someone
on the list with greater experience and knowledge can help us here.

> >From your description of the damage, I assume that I'll find a broken
toilet
> collar and the leakage of chemicals, etc. is responsible for the massive
> corrosion.  Hope I have some luck with unscrewing the locking ring.  I
> assume it's under a hard rubber gasket or part of the gasket - sure seems
> like a messy aspect of this job.
>
Yes, I believe you will find a broken tank collar as I did.  I think that is
the cause, as you stated, of the corrosion in the tank cover and belly skin.
If you search the plumbing section of a home improvement store, you may be
able to find a tool that will allow you to get a grip on your tank collar
and remove it without causing further damage as I did.  I didn't know what I
was up against and finally, in aggravation, just ripped out the collar.  You
can be smarter.  I don't think the one I worked on had a rubber gasket

> The rear edge of the plywood floor in my unit does not have any support.
> Glad to know that it's only the floor and not shrinkage of the plastic
> panels.  I started removal of the panels by drilling out the pop rivets.
I
> immediately discovered that the toilet had to be removed to get to the
> proper rivets.  It took an hour to take one of the hold down nuts for the
> toilet and a minute for the other.  Being in a blind recess made it
> impossible for me to see what was going on and more difficult to work with
> the bolts.  Fortunately, the penetrating oil and upward pressure on the
> toilet locked the hold down bolt enough to remove the nut.
>
> Most of the rubber gaskets around doors, windows, and hatches are
> deteriorated on my unit.  Likewise, the plastic strip hindges on the
storage
> doors are all broken and needing replacement.  If  you have a similar
> restoration situation, have you found a source for these item?
>
I have not worked on replacing door, window, and hatch gaskets but I'm sure
members of this list have.  I only discovered this list several weeks ago
and have been amazed at the quality of information that is available upon
request.  Someone on this list has done the job and will provide sources of
parts and information if you ask.

> I was told by an Airstream RV park repairman that the propane heaters in
> vintage trailers are not safe to use.  If you have the same information,
> have you located a suitable replacement?
>
 My daughter uses her original furnace in her '72 and I traveled with her,
in her trailer, in cold weather, in northern OH and the upper peninsula of
MI in September while my trailer was at P & S for recoat.  We used the
furnace daily.  I plan to use the original furnace in my '66 Safari when I
get it back in service by spring unless someone tells me it is unsafe.
Again, maybe someone on the list has more accurate info on this subject but
I believe Airstream used excellent quality appliances and, if maintained in
good repair, I think they are still safe and functional.

Again, I hope the clarifications and answers will help.

Harvey