RE: [A/S] restoration

["Scott & Lise Scheuermann" <schrmnns@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Peter, congratulations on the 60 Safari. I have a 60 Overlander.

Tires/wheels: I recommend Goodyear Marathons size ST225-75-R15, load range
D. You may be able to get away with load range C's but I prefer a little
extra in the tire department when there is only one axle. These tires fit my
Overlander fine. Wheels, if your old ones are in good shape and not the
split rim design go ahead and keep them. Shocks, the only place I know of
that carries them is Inland RV 800-877-7311 ask for Andy. Brakes, if you
need more than just shoes, many people have found it to be most cost
efficient to get "loaded backing plates". You get just about everything with
them.

Battery: The original style battery is still available. It's capacity is
marginal for today's power hungry consumers. The battery is good enough to
run the air pump for water pressure for the week, but don't count on using
the lights more than 10 to 15 minutes a day. If your usage is going to be
more than this dump the old style battery for newer ones. If your trailer
originally had a battery it would probably be a 'EE' series battery. If you
go to a newer style battery you have two options: 1, get a battery box that
will mount on the tongue between the body and the tanks, you might have to
move the tank mount forward a couple of inches to do this. 2, under one of
the dinette seats in front. You would need a battery that would not give off
gasses unless you vent it to the outside. I assume that the fresh water tank
is in the front also. It is important to keep the heavy articles towards the
front of the trailer so that it handles well while towing.

Propane tanks: Aluminum ones that can be polished are available through
Airstreamdreams.com. I assume that if you go to a 30# tank that you would
just need a new threaded pole for the tank hold down along with additional
line for the propane, as the tanks are taller.

Vent lifters: The Ladeau vent lifters have been unavailable for years. There
is a vastly inferior vent lifter available from Inland RV 800-877-7311, ask
for Andy. I assume that you have a square, aluminum vent towards the rear
and a rectangular plastic vent towards the front. Personally if I only had
two operating lifters I would place them on the front vent and purchase a
fantastic vent to put in the rear.

Tub & Stove: I don't know.

Water tanks: Fresh water on mine is 20 gal. Black tank is 10 gal. No gray
tank, the gray water just drains out. Others have a system where you could
plug the exit and the gray water would flow into the black tank, but on mine
the tub is the same height as the bottom of the black tank, this won't work!
You may have 15 gal fresh water, but I doubt if your black water tank is any
more than 10 gal. If you install a gray water tank be sure to place it up by
the axle and to never travel with it full any longer than absolutely
necessary as the trailer is just not designed to carry the extra weight. I
have wanted to install a gray tank on mine for years but have yet to see a
satisfactory set up. I am toying with the idea of just running 3" PVC back
and forth under the trailer, using the frame for support. Do you still use
an air pressurized system, or have you converted over to a water pump. If
your system is pressurized you will have to depressurize to fill from a tank
in your truck. A pump in your truck will make the job easier, you will
probably use a water pump on it. If you have room for a larger fresh water
tank you can always install one, but new tanks are not galvanized steel, but
plastic, you can have them made to fit. You would also need to convert from
the air pump to a water pump. With the larger water supply you have more
waste water to deal with. If you are staying at a full hookup campground
this is no problem, but if you are book docking you will either be letting
the gray water drain onto the ground or using those portable totes, but
dumping them can be a pain. I have a 5 gal and a 20 gal tote. I prefer the 5
gal only because it can be handled easily when full. In short: learn to use
less water. I don't understand what your problem is with the gray and black
water coming out of the same opening. If you have a sewer hookup, use a
sewer hose and let everything go. If no sewer and only there for a couple of
days, hold the black water and only let the gray drain into the tote. Dump
it at the nearest bathroom or dump. When you leave take the trailer to the
dump and dump the black. BUT NOW THAT I THINK ABOUT IT...in 60 they used a 2
1/2" sewer hose. Today's standard is a 3" hose. Many years ago we had a new
valve and fitting installed that let us use the modern 3" hoses and
fittings. While they were at it they rerouted the drain to the road side
(the now standard side for the drain). You may need to get creative here.

Beds, you must have the rear double bed (vs. the rear twins). The ridge
serves to keep the mattress in place. Make sure that the mattress fits so
that the ridge will hold it in.

My wife and I (along with the 60 Overlander) are also planning to be in
Harper's Ferry, hope to see you there.

Scott Scheuermann
13497