Re: [a/s] Water leak/Polishing a/s

[Jerry Flanders <jflanders2@xxxxxxxx>]

You may just have a leak where the slide valve is connected to the lines.
It is inexpensive and perhaps a half-day to completely replace the valve
yourself. You may need to cut an access port with metal shears or a
nibbling tool to get at it. I think most manuals discuss this sort of thing
- they tell you to make the hole larger than you think you will need. I
replaced one a few years ago on my '89 AS - no big deal. You have to get
under it and study it to see just where to make the port.

Perhaps you should make an access port in the area of the leak, open it up
and observe the leak yourself to determine exactly what needs fixing.

In 1973 I replaced a holding tank on a '69 27 footer. I removed the panel -
it was a long time ago, but I think I just drilled out the rivets holding
the panel on around the rear and sides, then let the panel droop from the
front. Probably just used self-tapping screws to re-assemble, because I
don't think I had a pop rivet gun then. Today I would use Al pop rivets.


>Also wondered about polishing it our selves. We have man power to do this.
>We realize we have to have a belle buffer and the right compounds. Found out
>there is company, Airmark, Oklahoma who will sell us products and tool. Sure
>would like to know if this is something that is possible for us to attempt
>ourselves.
>DSK in TEXAS
>
>

I am pretty sure that even back then, they were using plasticoat, a plastic
spray-on finish sort of like today's acrylic spray, to protect the bare
aluminum. To polish up the plasticoat, you would "polish" it the same way
you would "polish" your car's paint, because that is what it is - just like
a clear paint. To remove the plasticoat and polish the bare aluminum to get
the mirror shine prized by the vintage guys is a completely different
operation. 

Jerry