Re: [a/s] Hitches

["Rich Walbridge" <wbcci@xxxxxxx>]

Kathy and Tom,

I wonder if the friction sway control is free of rust and deep corrosion
pits?  If the surface is full of an unusual amount of nooks and crannies
and/or the adjustment is too tight, there may be some major binding going on
there.  I wonder if the friction bar was installed so it is extended or is
too close to being fully closed.  I recall mine were about 1/3 out while the
trailer was straight.

I had a friction sway device with some rust on it, so I took a wire wheel on
a drill and shined it up so that there wouldn't be any chance of an
intermittent bind.  The slide portion of the sway control just slides out if
you loosen up the adjustment handle.  If you find that yours is rusted
severe enough to warrant replacement, they are cost about $90+/-.  I think
they even rebuild them at the EAZ-lift company.  Not sure how much for that
service.

I think its supposed to dampen or slow the give and take.

I recall how they are supposed to be adjusted:  When travelling in a
clockwise circle (slowly in a parking lot) let go of the wheel and see if
the trailer wants to straighten out.  If it does, its too loose.  If you
keep tightening the sway device until the trailer and the car won't
straighten out, its too tight.  You then loosen it a little until the car
and trailer straighten out with some dampening action like it needs alittle
help.  I think they are usually mounted on the curbside of the car as a
single.  I wonder if when they are mounted on the streetside, if the test
should be counter-clockwise?  Not sure.

I had 2 friction sways on a vehicle once.  A little overkill?  The dual cam
sway control works good but makes loud binding and banging noises when
turning.  That used to scare me.

With the combination of the above 2 systems, the trailer was very stable.
Rich Walbridge
mailto:richwalbridge@airstream.net
WBCCI#3371