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VACList DigestVACList-Digest Sunday, October 6, 2002 Issue 447
Today's Topics:
1. Replacement Furnace for Bambi
2. Re: Refrigerator Problems
3. new member
4. hydraulic brakes
5. Re: new member
6. Re: Replacement Furnace for Bambi
7. Re: Refrigerator Problems
8. Re: Fridge on LP
9. Re: Water lines
10. Re: Water lines
11. Re: Electrical woes
12. Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
13. Re: Painting of an Airstream
14. Re: An adequate tow vehicle
15. Re: Painting of an Airstream
16. Re: Fridge on LP
17. caravan
18. Re: Electrical woes
19. Re: Fridge on LP
20. Re: new member
21. Re: Fridge on LP
22. Re: An adequate tow vehicle
23. Re: Water lines
24. Re:
25. Re:
26. Re:
27. Re: Tip for laying vinyl tile
28. Re: new member
29. Re: caravan
30. Re: Suburban 6.2 w/retrofitted banks sidewinder (was vintage > tow vehicles)
31. Flexible propane lines.
32. Re: Tip for laying vinyl tile
33. Re: Suburban 6.2 w/retrofitted banks sidewinder (was vintage > tow vehicles)
34. Re: Tip for laying vinyl tile
35. vintage heater
36. Re: Electrical woes
37. Re: Refrigerator Problems
38. Re: hydraulic brakes
39. Re: vintage heater
40. Re: Fridge on LP
41. Re: new member
42. Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
43. Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
44. Front Table/Bunk Reconfiguration
45. Re: Surreal Gourmet's Airstream
46. Re: Front Table/Bunk Reconfiguration
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 20:45:47 -0400
From: "Eric and Linda Evans" <elevan@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Replacement Furnace for Bambi
We have removed the old Carlson 6000 BTU furnace from our 61 Bambi and =
are looking for a new unit to replace it with. Since we are reworking =
the cabinets, we could use just about any size and shape. Has anyone =
replaced one in a Bambi? I have read there are drawbacks to a unit with =
higher BTUs but so far 12,000 BTU is the smallest I have found. Thanks =
in advance. Eric and Linda=20
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 20:58:28 -0400
From: corbinbates@xxxxxxxxxx.net (Corbin C Bates)
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Problems
Andy,
How do you make a "manometer" with some clear plastic tubing? Then how do you use it to check the pressure?
Corbin
Have trailer will travel...
Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>Paul. If the reefer cools on electric, it must cool on gas, provided that the
>flame is "HOT" enough.
>The flame should make a small "roaring noise." The LPG pressure could also be
>low.
>You can make a "manometer" with some clear plastic tubing, and check the
>pressure then with that.
>
>Andy
>inlandrv.com
>airstreamparts.com
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
Corbin C Bates
We are Penguin,
Resistance is futile.
. ____ ____ .
. [ \ / ] .
. | GO BLUE! | .
. | |\ /| | .
. [____]\/[____] .
Talk at ya later.........
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------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 21:10:09 -0400
From: "Chris Herring" <cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: new member
Hello,
I am the proud new owner of '61 Airstream Ambassador. I've always admired
the Airstream design but really did not know much about them until I
acquired one. Now I am totally in love with them.
I am hoping to restore this camper to it's original beauty. The inside is in
good shape but I am missing a few things, which I am hoping to find via this
list.
Here is my wish list if you have any thoughts:
2 Hehr roof vents (one for the bathroom, one for the front dining area)
The clip that keep the entry door for banging into the skin on the outside
source for window beading material
I'm also interesting in hearing from anyone that is parting out a 58-63
model. I have some damaged segments that I would really like to replace.
I'm also very interesting in trading photos of similar units. I have a lot
of questions about some of the items in my Airstream -- are they original or
not.
I'll sign off now so that I don't make this note too long. I'm learning a
lot from the old VAC postings. So far I've read back to July...
Chris
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 19:07:33 -0700
From: Gary HEEBNER <nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
Subject: hydraulic brakes
Hi to all. I'm a wannabie newbie. Found a '77 31' that's only an eight
hour drive away (close-by for these parts), so I'm planning to go look this
weekend. The trailer (exc. cond.) has the old vacuum-hydraulic disc brakes
and the current owner has a vac line running from under the hood to the back
of his truck. He says that the system works beautifully--very smooth and
powerful. I, however, have an F250 Powerstroke, hence the questions:
1. Is the vacuum pump (for truck brakes and tranny) on the Powerstroke
powerful enough to handle the trailer too?
2. If not, the local hitch shop says that it has a Carlisle Hydrostar
electric-hydraulic actuator that is powered by a standard heavy-duty brake
controller (I just put on a Jordan Ultima--hope that can handle the 15 to 20
amps required); one just rips-out the vacuum stuff and replaces it with this
unit (for only $999 CDN), plus a painted steel weather-tight box to put it
in (for only $200 CDN). Does anyone have experience with this unit?
I know that many have changed-over to all electric brakes, but I would like
to keep the hydraulic discs if possible, and also, I would be at the
seller's home doing the change-over, so the actuator change seems to be
quicker and simpler than doing the whole system. Your opinions and
expertise are sought.
Gary Heebner
Prince George, British Columbia
nodoubtinmymind@xxxxxxxxxx.ca
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 22:16:46 -0600
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: new member
Hi Chris,
Why don't you check the archives and look at the floor plans inside each
trailer, in each year, in each model? It's a good way to spend a rainy day,
plus it might answer one or two of your questions about original vs after
market.
http://www.vintageairstream.com/archives/index.html
Here are a couple other websites that might spark your fancy.
Http://www.airstream.org/links.html
http://www.airstreamtrailers.com/
Enjoy,
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
=======================
> From: "Chris Herring" <cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 21:10:09 -0400
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] new member
>
> I'm also very interested in trading photos of similar units. I have a lot
> of questions about some of the items in my Airstream -- are they original or
> not.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 22:22:49 -0600
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacement Furnace for Bambi
Linda,
If you'd like a catalytic heater, they come with fewer BTUs. Add a tiny
muffin fan near a 12v light and one of these might be more than sufficient.
Look at www.rvsolarelectric.com for ideas.
Of course, one of the 110v cube heaters with 750 and 1,000 watts would be
sufficient for those times when in a regular campground with hookups. Lots
of choices.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
---------------
> From: "Eric and Linda Evans" <elevan@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 20:45:47 -0400
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] Replacement Furnace for Bambi
>
> We have removed the old Carlson 6000 BTU furnace from our 61 Bambi and are
> looking for a new unit to replace it with. Since we are reworking the
> cabinets, we could use just about any size and shape. Has anyone replaced one
> in a Bambi? I have read there are drawbacks to a unit with higher BTUs but so
> far 12,000 BTU is the smallest I have found. Thanks in advance. Eric and
> Linda
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 00:20:32 -0400
From: "Dash7 (Michigan)" <dash7_@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Problems
Hi Corbin,
Check out this site. It describes how to make a manometer and how to use it
to check the propane system on an RV.
http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/manometer.html
Don (MI)
>From: corbinbates@xxxxxxxxxx.net (Corbin C Bates)
>Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Refrigerator Problems
>Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 20:58:28 -0400
>
>Andy,
>How do you make a "manometer" with some clear plastic tubing? Then how do
>you use it to check the pressure?
>
>Corbin
>Have trailer will travel...
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 00:21:37 EDT
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fridge on LP
I learned a trick from an old AS mechanic in Fla. who blows compressed air up
the flew with a copper tube conected to an air hose to clean out carbon build
up.
I blew mine out with the petcock that came with my compressor and its works
mutch better on gas than before.
It didnt cycle on LP till I blew it out and now it works great!!!
Keeps 38 degrees in the cabinet on #4
AlanT
74 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 21:20:41 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Water lines
Hi Kathy,
There was quite a discussion about the size PEX tube to use as a replacement
for copper. Some liked 3/8 and others liked 1/2 inch. The connectors are
swaged copper or machined brass and use a compression ring to seal the
connection. For some situations, Quest fittings are appropriate (where the
plumbing will be opened from time to time) for runs to faucets, etc. There
are connectors that connect directly to the 1/2 inch pipe fittings on
typical faucets. Also, connections to a water heater must use a Quest
fitting with a brass thread connection to the tank. Some fittings don't
tolerate the direct heat of a water heater.
I like PEX and have used it exclusively in both my '69 Safari and '74
Argosy. The only remaining copper in the Safari is the pressure valve to
the shore coupling and the runs to the shower. I haven't finished the shower
yet and may change even these to PEX. The shower line is usually the first
to freeze! :(
Yes, the PEX can expand to about twice it's original diameter without damage
to the tube. However, such expansion can stretch the compression rings.
This can be corrected by using the compression tool to recrimp the fittings.
Good reason to buy the tool and keep it in the tool box. I keep quite a few
Quest fittings, compression rings, PEX fittings, etc. in my tool box.
Recently, I had to remove the shower panel with mixer valve and had to cut
into the PEX plumbing to remove the panel. A wire from the tail light
connection separated and cutting through the inside skin to reconnect it was
an only option. By the way, a Rotozip tool is a wonderful tool for this
kind of operation. Just set the depth to just cut through the skin and a
neat access port can be cut out. Then, just pop rivet a new piece of
aluminum over the port.
Anyway, this time, I used Quest fittings to rejoin the shower lines. NO
PROPANE TORCH REQUIRED! Means I can open them easily if the need arises in
the future. I might mention that I use one of those ratchet pruning cutters
to cut the PEX. Simple and much quicker than pruning a branch. NEVER HAVE
TO WRESTLE WITH A TUBING CUTTER OR SAW IN A CRAMPED SPACE.
Finally, if you need to snake the replacement tube under and/or around stuff
at floor level, PEX will take an incredible bend without kinking or
breaking.
With regard to CLEAN copper tube for propane supply lines. I wouldn't
substitute anything for copper. Make proper flare connections. Keep the
tube diameters as original to maintain flow volume. Use proper tubing
benders to prevent kinks, etc. Do not use teflon tape on propane fittings.
Such as brass fittings that attach directly to a regulator, etc. Use a
proper paste specified for gas lines.
Now, you have at hand all that I've learned about replacing water and gas
lines. You'll never be sorry that you chose PEX unless you use very high
concentrations of chlorine bleach in PEX - that's a NO-NO!
Regards, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 21:43:58 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <tim@telecom-pros.com>
Subject: Re: Water lines
I just spent the last several weeks redueing all the plumbing in my Safari.
I have not presurized it with water yet though...
I looked into using PEX which is the more flexable line and freeze
tollerant. However, due to local availabilty and price I chose to go with
CPVC.
PEX requires either a special crimping tool for the fittings or a
compression type typically called Quest fittings. The quest fittings,
elbows, tees, 45's etc... are on average $4 each. The corresponding
fittings in CPVC are less than a dollar each.
CPVC is a special kind of PVC used for hot and cold potable water. It will
be damaged by freezing if not proper winterized just like copper. The
fittings are glued with CPVC cement and primer.
I spent around $230 replacing all the copper pipes, check valves, drain
valves, etc. I even added three valves on the water heater for a
winterizing bypass. Even though I probably will never need it since I live
in California.
I have not tried to pressurize it yet so we will have to see how it works
out. I just replaced the kitchen faucet today.
I had to have a friend come by with a recipicating saw to the old faucet
apart because the nuts holding it on were frozen from 30 years of corrosion!
-Tim
tim@telecom-pros.com
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathy Hunt" <khunt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 4:35 PM
Subject: [VAC] Water lines
> I am finally putting my Bambi back together and have been wondering about
> the water lines.
>
> Do I understand that some of you have used plastic in place of copper
lines?
> How do you like it? Also do I understand there is more flexibility when
> freezing happens?
>
> Come tell me about the options. Also is there a flexible materiel for the
> gas lines?
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 21:52:29 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
Howard wrote:
> Cigarette lighter plugs and sockets are notoriously unreliable.
You can say that again! I rewired my Airstream lighter plug and then
plugged in my TV/DVD. Watched for about an hour and then turned it off and
went out to dinner. When I came back there was a noise coming from the back
of the TV. Sort of a buzzing. I tried to turn it on but it would not go.
By now I am convinced that your right about cig plugs being bad news for
serious users. Either that or their evil :)
I will begin to search for the best locking DC connector that I can find.
Howard wrote:
> There are
> switching type regulators that will provide a regulated output of 13+
volts
> from a 12.0 or less source. Check the power requirement of the DVD and
> TV and see what power is required to size a voltage regulator.
If anyone has a suggestion for a voltage regulator (the TV/DVD likes 12
volts)
I would like to know more.
Thanx to all for the help.
Back to cold showers Bob
Bob Kiger
Oceanside, CA
66 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 00:25:21 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
Greetings Huff!
I have had the updates performed that you are contemplating. These
updates were done shortly after I purchased my 1964 Overlander. The
service facility did not consult me and when I questioned the
modifications, I was told that "code" required these updates as part of
the re-plumbing and re-wiring process.
I can't really complain about the city water connection. It works quite
well, and provides some much needed separation from the electrical
service and dump valve. The intake is mounted through a hole that was
cut in the rear panel of the trailer about 8 inches above the bumper.
The device is white enamel, but since this project was completed, I have
seen the same device in chrome which would be much more complimentary to
the Airstream coach.
The electrical connection on the other hand has been nothing other than
an extreme headache. The hatch is mounted through a hole that was cut
in the rear panel of the trailer about 4 inches above the bumper. The
plastic housing is temperamental at best, and is often difficult to
close when the cord is stored. Most frustrating of all is the constant
problem of the 30-Amp umbilical cord constantly becoming tangled in the
plumbing and univolt equipment found in its nesting area. While I
haven't had problems with mice up to this point, I had continual
problems with a brand X trailer and this type of connector. The only
pest problem that I have noticed since this was installed is an increase
in the number of spiders that find their way into the coach.
These updates modernize the coach, but I am not convinced that they are
that much of an improvement as it is still often necessary to open the
one-stop utility center to untangle the 30-amp umbilical cord. I am
also not certain that either one is a long-term solution as both devices
are mostly plastic which I fear will become brittle with age and need
replacement in the not too distant future.
Good luck with your decision!
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Dave Huffman
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 3:04 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
Last summer I posted a note regarding updating the antiquated Utility
System
on our '67 Caravel. I got only one or two responses, which made me
wonder
1) is everyone content to be 'vintage' and reach under the trailer to
get at
the water hose and power cable? 2) most Streamers are out on the road?
So I'll try again. We're planning a trip soon and I had enough of
knee
bending and squatting to get at the
Hole-in-the-Floor-of-the-Utility-Compartment approach to trailer utility
hook-ups. As I looked around the campgrounds I saw no one else hooking
up
from a hole in the bottom of their trailer!
I don't want to cut into my vintage utility door, so I got a new one
which I won't feel guilty cutting into for utility access.
I looked at current trailer utility access at a local RV center and I
was
shown small PVC type boxes which have sliding or opening covers over the
utility outlet. Seems a good idea vs. the capped male plug I was
planning
to mount to the outside of the door for water.
For electricity the simple thing would be to get an outdoor
receptacle
from an electric supply and just mount that so I can plug in the power
cable
from outside. But that plastic box holding a 6-10' power cable with a
cover
seems one better.
I hoped to get some help from Airstream. Although I got a quick
reply,
it seems to me they are "vintage" in their approach also: "Dear sir, I
would
add a quick disconnect to the water supply with a short pc of hose that
will hang out at bottom of pvc pipe and put a pigtail on the electric as
well that you can hook up to with out feeding the cable through the
pipe.
Other than this you will have to use your imagination to come up with a
easier more accessible solution."
BTW I have asked what others do to prevent critters from crawling up
into the utility pipe when it's open. In spite of a light steel wool
stuffing I found a dessicated frog in the area when I inspected it last
month.
Huff
'67 Caravel
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 00:42:09 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Painting of an Airstream
Greetings David!
It sounds as if you may be facing the same situation that was
encountered with my 1964 Overlander. I hadn't noticed the problem, but
the Ruth's found it nearly immediately when they polished my trailer
last year. An earlier owner had sanded most of the curb side panel.
The sanding marks were polished out, but not without cost - - several
hundred dollars between extra machine work and labor.
While I am very satisfied with the quality of the polish job on my
coach, I am not so certain that I might not consider a high quality
paint job knowing what I know now. The trailer now looks just like it
did the day that friends of my family towed it home in 1964. At this
point, I am trying to determine if there is any difference in the amount
of work involved in the twice annual Walbernizing as opposed to the
semi-annual wax jobs that a painted coach would require. With my recent
acquisition of the '78 Argosy, I will have the opportunity to compare
each process.
My personal conclusion has been that polishing isn't so important to me.
After having my rig polished, I find myself realizing that I don't
really care whether I have a show-quality restoration - - I just want a
presentable, comfortable traveling vehicle. My primary objective is to
have a unit that I can enjoy traveling in after weeks of 12 and 14 hour
days teaching in our public school system.
I hope that the sanded panels don't prove to be the problem that the
panels were on my coach.
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
D Reilly
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 2:02 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Painting of an Airstream
A lot of old Airstreams won't polish up very well. On one of mine,
someone
has already used sand paper to "clean" it. Since I haven't polished it
yet,
I don't know how bad the damage really is (or isn't) The other had
corrosion that wouldn't all come out when I did polish it.
Painting may be the best solution for some Airstreams.
David Reilly
Madison, Miss.
1953 Overlander
1963 Overlander
1991 Excella 1000 34'
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 01:02:12 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: An adequate tow vehicle
Kevin D. Allen
Greetings Joel!
Really, the only one that has to be satisfied with the choice of a tow
vehicle is the person who must pilot the vehicle - - assuming that the
tow vehcile is properly rated by the manufacturer for the towing
situation. I tried towing my smaller brand X (4,000 pound)trailer with
a GMC 2500 Vandura, and was disappointed in its performance even though
it was rated to tow 5,000 pounds with its 307 c.i. V8 and 3.73
differential gears. The family that finally purchased the van towed
their 4,000 pound Prowler with it for many years and were well pleased.
I readily admit that my primary goal is to have a tow vehicle that can
easily power out of any situation that I might encounter. My current
primary tow vehicle for the Overlander has the 7400 Vortec with 4.11
gearing which nets a tow rating of 10,000 pounds which is just shy of
twice the loaded weight of my Overlander. Would I ever suggest that
this degree of overkill is necessary for everyone - - no, absolutely
not. The primary concern is that the tow vehicle has the necessary
capacity and is satisfactory to the driver who must pilot the rig.
I readily agree with your statement that the higher seating position of
a van or sport untility vehicle increases the confidence level in a
towinv vehicle - - especially in heavy metropolitan traffic. Not only
that, it is also nice to be able to leave the front and rear drapes open
and be able to see approaching traffic to the rear of the Airstream
through the tow vehicle's interior rear view mirror - - something that
never occurred to me until I purchased my first pickup as a tow vehicle.
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Joel Wilcox
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 7:49 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] An adequate tow vehicle
What do you consider minimum performance
considerations in the tow vehicle?
I now own my parents' '66 Overlander. They used a
Dodge Polara, a Mercury Marquis, an Olds 98, and most
recently a GMC Vandura 2500 with 350ci motor, which I
now also own. Of the cars, they considered the
Mercury the best (the Dodge might have been OK as a
tow but had other problems) until they got the GMC
van. Their criteria of a good tow vehicle was its
ability to make it over a mountain pass without
over-heating or threatening to.
I suppose there must be other more exacting criteria.
The GMC van is not a fast tow, either in acceleration
or in terms of comfort at higher speeds on the road.
I don't really enjoy pulling the Overlander at much
more than 55 MPH. I do think there is an advantage
while towing in being a little higher in the air as
one is in a van.
Over all, I'm pretty satisfied. Should I be?
Joel
=====
******
Joel Wilcox
1966 Overlander
Tow: 1987 GMC Vandura 2500
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 02:31:55 -0400
From: "dave cole" <davecole@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: Painting of an Airstream
Speaking of painted airstreams here is a beauty of a painted trailer that
the guys out at vintage-vacations finished not too long ago. a first rate
resto on a 46 Spartan Manor whose surface was too messed up to polish.
worth looking at.
http://www.vintage-vacations.com/painted_1946_spartan_manor.htm
IMHO an Airstream would have to be pretty far gone for me to want to paint
it. No matter what kind of shape the aluminum is in, that outer skin is
still sexy as hell.
In the other hand, I don't have a lot of room to be critical of radical
custom work on an A/S as I am in the process of removing the entire interior
of my 1969 25' Tradewind to put in aluminum trimmed bent birch walls and
custom cabinets. I am a sculptor and will be working out of the trailer for
the winter while I travel with only my dog for company. A cabin with beds
for four and no sturdy work bench just isn't practical for me. (I am,
however saving, labeling, and photographing everything that comes out.) I am
still trying to decide if I want to polish at all. Right now, my plan is
no-keep it looking like Clark Kent on the outside.
Dave Cole
532 Kinsley Ave, Box 27
Providence, RI 02909
davecole@xxxxxxxxxx.org
www.openarts.org/davecole
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 00:12:20 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge on LP
Hi Alan,
I'm surprised about the need to blow out the chimney. My '69 Safari has =
a twisted blade in the chimney that can be removed through a port inside =
the towel cabinet. I don't see this on the '74 Argosy, so it's possible =
that air is the only way to clean the thing now.
Certainly suggests that the burner isn't set properly, doesn't it?
Regards, Joy
----- Original Message -----=20
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2002 12:21 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Fridge on LP
I learned a trick from an old AS mechanic in Fla. who blows compressed =
air up the flew with a copper tube conected to an air hose to clean out =
carbon build up.
I blew mine out with the petcock that came with my compressor and its =
works mutch better on gas than before.=20
It didnt cycle on LP till I blew it out and now it works great!!!
Keeps 38 degrees in the cabinet on #4
AlanT
74 Safari=20
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 07:01:34 -0400
From: "AnnJackob" <ajackob@m2000.net>
Subject: caravan
Good Morning,I would like to no if anyone is caravanning from North east =
Pennsylvania to Colonial Beach Va. I would like to tag along if possible =
Ann
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 08:08:18 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
My Airstream wrote:
>I will begin to search for the best locking DC connector that I can find.
I just found this: http://www.powerwerx.com/ - they have some
nice looking DC power connectors at ratings up to 75 amps- plus
chassis mount connectors. Pretty cheap, too.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 08:09:37 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Fridge on LP
Mr. Joy H. Hansen wrote:
>I'm surprised about the need to blow out the chimney. My '69 Safari has a twisted blade in the chimney that can be removed through a port inside the towel cabinet. I don't see this on the '74 Argosy, so it's possible that air is the only way to clean t
If your '74 doesn't have the baffle, that's the problem. They
*all* are supposed to have them to aid in heat transfer from the flame
to the ammonia.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 08:25:16 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: new member
Hi Chris,
Cant answer all your parts questions , but the clip to hold door open is a generic
RV part , camco makes them ,most rv places around here stock them .While your at
the store , ask if they have an RV parts and accessories catalog ,its usually free
and has other stuff you can order thats common to airstream and other brands.
Chris Elliott
>
>
> > From: "Chris Herring" <cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> >
I am hoping to restore this camper to it's original beauty. The inside is in
good shape but I am missing a few things, which I am hoping to find via this
list.
Here is my wish list if you have any thoughts:
2 Hehr roof vents (one for the bathroom, one for the front dining area)
The clip that keep the entry door for banging into the skin on the outside
source for window beading material
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 08:32:59 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Fridge on LP
Chris, you got it wrong. I don't have a problem with my '74 Argosy
refrigerator. Just don't have the access to lift the twisted baffle out of
the chimney for cleaning like I have in the Safari. Think there were some
design short cuts in the later coach.
Regards, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 10:48:34 -0600
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: An adequate tow vehicle
Double ditto - especially when your Dad drummed it into your head that you
and only you can solve your problems when you're out in the middle of
nowhere and the going gets dicey. That's when overkill preparation seems
barely sufficient and profoundly welcome.
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
===========================
> From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 01:02:12 -0500
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: An adequate tow vehicle
>
> I readily admit that my primary goal is to have a tow vehicle that can
> easily power out of any situation that I might encounter. My current
> primary tow vehicle for the Overlander has the 7400 Vortec with 4.11
> gearing which nets a tow rating of 10,000 pounds which is just shy of
> twice the loaded weight of my Overlander. Would I ever suggest that
> this degree of overkill is necessary for everyone - - no, absolutely
> not. The primary concern is that the tow vehicle has the necessary
> capacity and is satisfactory to the driver who must pilot the rig.
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 11:05:49 EDT
From: JPPOLLY@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Water lines
I used some reinforced plastic tubing where the water lines had frozen in the
past, fastened them with hose clamps and it seems to work well. When I got
the trailer someone had used plain old water hose in one spot and it was
still working OK but I replaced it with the tubing. It comes in lots of
sizes and bends nicely around tight spots.There are flexible gas lines that
are used for connecting the bottles to the regulator but I don't know it this
material can be used inside the trailer? I would think that getting a leak
free connection might be a problem?
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 11:18:01 -0400
From: dancleary@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re:
I have a 1975 Airstream Argosy Motorhome for sale ($7500) can anyone tell
me the e-address to list this?
Dan
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 08:18:07 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re:
Dan,
List it here and you should have good results:
http://www.airstream.net/classifieds/classifieds.phtml?cat=Trailers
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT
> I have a 1975 Airstream Argosy Motorhome for sale ($7500) can anyone tell
> me the e-address to list this?
> Dan
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 10:20:24 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re:
http://www.airstream.net/classifieds/index.phtml
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 08:25:36 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Tip for laying vinyl tile
Most of what Andy comes up with is based upon experience from doing all
those trailers, but I need to elaborate a little on the subject of sheet
linoleum.
I have a 1957 Flying Cloud and 1956 Dalton here with a one piece
linoleum floor without a single seam crack. On the '57 the floor is
crumbling apart, but the linoleum is only faded - and all in one piece.
There are some beautiful 5+ year old restorations running around with
sheet linoleum floors without a problem.
http://www.forbo-linoleum.nl/products/ (& others)
OTOH, our '65 caravel had the 9x9 composition vinyl (asbestos fiber)
tiles, and they did crack at the seams.
I'd say the key here is to use quality materials and not split seam at
the floor joints, as this would introduce a peel point and crack for
water and dirt to start their damage.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
On Thursday, October 3, 2002, at 09:26 AM, Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Whenever floor tile is installed directly to the plywood floor an any
> Airstream trailer, a word or two of caution for your long term
> enjoyment of
> the floor.
> DO NOT install one piece linoleum over the floor seams. In time, it will
> crack at every plywood seam. Same applies to floor tile. Seam it at the
> floor
> seams, if not, they too will crack at the plywood seams.
> The floor seams move ever so slightly. In doing so, the floor coverings
> will
> crack at those seams.
> Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 08:41:37 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: new member
To expand upon what Chris says, anyone restoring an Airstream must have
the 600 page RV Parts and Accessories Catalog, available from real (not
Camping World or Campers Choice) RV parts dealers.
Bargman still makes the original clip & bumpers, too.
http://www.tekonsha.com/frproducts.html
The Hehr vents are not available. I am still trying to work a way
around the initial $10,000 set-up fee to have them re-stamped locally.
I'm also trying to convince Hehr they could make money by reissuing
them, but so far no luck. maybe I'll repost their email address again,
and everyone can deluge them with requests :>)
Window bead material for a '61 is available from
http://www.airstreamdreams.com
As for the skin segments, you might have better luck removing the
interior skin panels for access to the backside of the dent.
Best of luck,
RJ
On Sunday, October 6, 2002, at 05:25 AM, Chris Elliott wrote:
> Hi Chris,
> Cant answer all your parts questions , but the clip to hold door open
> is a generic
> RV part , camco makes them ,most rv places around here stock them
> .While your at
> the store , ask if they have an RV parts and accessories catalog ,its
> usually free
> and has other stuff you can order thats common to airstream and other
> brands.
> Chris Elliott
>>
>>> From: "Chris Herring" <cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> I am hoping to restore this camper to it's original beauty. The inside
> is in
> good shape but I am missing a few things, which I am hoping to find via
> this
> list.
> Here is my wish list if you have any thoughts:
> 2 Hehr roof vents (one for the bathroom, one for the front
> dining area)
> The clip that keep the entry door for banging into the skin on
> the outside
> source for window beading material
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 12:09:52 -0500
From: "Paul P. Waddell" <balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: caravan
Ann,
Don't know which way your planning on coming down from PA. I live next
to the
I-81&I-66 interchange near, Front Royal,VA.. We plan on going down on
Thursday.
Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC 1270
66 Overlander
70 23LY single
> AnnJackob wrote:
>
> Good Morning,I would like to no if anyone is caravanning from North
> east Pennsylvania to Colonial Beach Va. I would like to tag along if
> possible Ann
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 10:40:45 -0600
From: Dan Phariss <dphar@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Suburban 6.2 w/retrofitted banks sidewinder (was vintage > tow vehicles)
on 10/4/02 6:03 PM, VACList at VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> Message Number: 28
> Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 14:33:01 -0700
> From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
> Subject: Re: Suburban 6.2 w/retrofitted banks sidewinder (was vintage
> tow vehicles)
>
> Dan,
> I'll email you off list and fill you in on all the specs etc. I don't think
> everyone on the list want hear about this if it's not somehow connected to
> an Airstream.
> Colin Hyde
> Email: chyde@primelink1.net
I for one would be very interested. Afterall the tow vehicles are generally
"connected" to Airstreams : )
I am thinking about going diesel and certainly can't afford the new stuff.
Dan Phariss
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 12:12:25 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Flexible propane lines.
Hi Polly,
With regard to the hose clamps on the fiber reinforced tubing, the tube
seems to shrink with age and eventually the clamps need to be retightened.
I used this tubing for my beer making for years as I was pumping 180 degree
liquids. I found that the hose clamps on the straight end copper tube would
pop off regardless of how tight I fastened the hose clamps, right up to the
point where I almost cut the tube off with the clamp. My solution was to
solder a ring on the end of the copper pipe. The hose stayed in place since
the clamp couldn't slide over the ring. Other areas, I used hose barb, much
like the PEX fittings. None of this is critics of you novel approach to
fixing your freeze damaged plumbing. Just information that might make the
connections a bit more sure if you get into a high pressure/hot water
situation.
With regard to the rubber hose for propane lines, your thought might be
practical for the runs from the tank along the outside of the trailer,
though it would take a lot of clamps as compared to copper. On the
practical side, there might be concern about fire burning off the rubber in
areas where the usual tube enters the trailer, like for stoves, furnaces,
refrigerators, and even the water heater. If something happened at the
appliance and burned through the rubber hose, there would be a terrible blow
torch loosed inside the trailer and/or the gas could fill the inside of the
trailer.
A motor home nearby exploded a few days ago from leaking propane inside.
Just opening the door detonated the gas inside. Fortunately, only the motor
home was melted to the ground.
Possibly a specialist on the list could inform us about the legality of
using the rubber hose. I do know that if something goes wrong with the
regulator (an unlikely happening), the typical hose clamp connections would
fail under the high pressure at the tank. From common sense, I wouldn't use
other than copper tube with appropriate flare fitting and pipe doped
threaded fitting connections.
Still just my opinions,
Regards, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 13:11:39 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Tip for laying vinyl tile
At 08:25 AM 10/6/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I'd say the key here is to use quality materials and not split seam at the
>floor joints, as this would introduce a peel point and crack for water and
>dirt to start their damage.
>
>RJ
>VintageAirstream.com
So, this goes against what Andy said about placing seams at joints, so that
the flooring doesnt crack as the floor flexes.
For what it's worth, Armstrong says to NOT place tile joints at subfloor
seams as well. But they are talking about installing tile in a house, not a
trailer.
Anyone else have anything to say about placing floor tiles over or next to
subfloor seams?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 13:07:11 -0400
From: "chyde" <brownhyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: Suburban 6.2 w/retrofitted banks sidewinder (was vintage > tow vehicles)
Dan Phariss,
I'll email the same stuff I sent the other Dan. If you have any questions
don't hesitate to call.
Colin hyde
57 Sovereign of the Road
59 Ambassador International
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Phariss" <dphar@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2002 12:40 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Suburban 6.2 w/retrofitted banks sidewinder (was vintage
> tow vehicles)
> on 10/4/02 6:03 PM, VACList at VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
>
> > Message Number: 28
> > Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 14:33:01 -0700
> > From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
> > Subject: Re: Suburban 6.2 w/retrofitted banks sidewinder (was vintage
> > tow vehicles)
> >
> > Dan,
> > I'll email you off list and fill you in on all the specs etc. I don't
think
> > everyone on the list want hear about this if it's not somehow connected
to
> > an Airstream.
> > Colin Hyde
> > Email: chyde@primelink1.net
>
>
> I for one would be very interested. Afterall the tow vehicles are
generally
> "connected" to Airstreams : )
> I am thinking about going diesel and certainly can't afford the new stuff.
>
> Dan Phariss
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 12:20:13 -0500
From: lefty frizzell <leftyfrizzell@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Tip for laying vinyl tile
Yeah, buy and extra box of tiles. If it cracks, scrape it up and
replace it unless you can live with the crack. Solves all the "to
Crack" or "not to Crack", don't it.
Lefty Frizzell
http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell
****
I can only please one person per day.
Today is not your day.
Tomorrow is not looking too good either.
****
-----Original Message-----
From: VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net] On Behalf Of
Dave Lowrey
Sent: October 06, 2002 12:12
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Tip for laying vinyl tile
At 08:25 AM 10/6/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I'd say the key here is to use quality materials and not split seam at
>the
>floor joints, as this would introduce a peel point and crack for water
and
>dirt to start their damage.
>
>RJ
>VintageAirstream.com
So, this goes against what Andy said about placing seams at joints, so
that
the flooring doesnt crack as the floor flexes.
For what it's worth, Armstrong says to NOT place tile joints at subfloor
seams as well. But they are talking about installing tile in a house,
not a
trailer.
Anyone else have anything to say about placing floor tiles over or next
to
subfloor seams?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 12:12:28 -0600
From: "Ken & Molly Reed" <archneo@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: vintage heater
Hello!
I have acquired some nice parts out of a 1948 SOB trailer, which are
identical to vintage Airstream parts. Included in these was a heater
exactly like those used in Airstreams from the late 40s. It is rectangular
in shape, 13x9x3.5 inches, art deco style painted-aluminum grill, has two
ceramic bricks inside for transfer of heat, and is made by the Deluxe Wall
Heater Company, model "Elite." Fred Coldwell, this is the one you sent us a
photo of. It is complete except that it is missing the "key" which is used
to turn it on and off. Does anyone have one of these heaters with a key?
If so, would it be possible to have a duplicate made of the key (by
casting/impression)? I would be very happy to pay for such duplication, so
that I will be able to turn the heater on without using pliers every time!
I realize some folks buy the trailer first, but I'm hoping that if I find
enough parts, the 40s vintage trailer will come to me. Any help with that
would be appreciated too! ;^)
Ken & Molly Reed
'57 Bubble, '57 Suburban
Looking for that perfect 40s Clipper....
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 11:26:11 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical woes
Hi Chris,
I assume you mean the "Powerpole sets" and 'chassis mount housings"?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Bryant" <list@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2002 5:08 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Electrical woes
> My Airstream wrote:
>
> >I will begin to search for the best locking DC connector that I can find.
>
> I just found this: http://www.powerwerx.com/ - they have some
> nice looking DC power connectors at ratings up to 75 amps- plus
> chassis mount connectors. Pretty cheap, too.
------------------------------
Message Number: 37
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 14:33:58 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Problems
Corbin. I will make one and send you a photo of it, off list.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 38
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 14:38:46 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: hydraulic brakes
Gary. Usually vacuum pumps do not enough capacity for your disc brakes. You
can remove the complete booster, and install a "braker" as we have done many
times. That eliminates the need for any vacuum, yet retains your disc brakes.
The cost is $840.00, plus shipping.
Andy inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 39
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 12:37:24 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: vintage heater
Hi Ken & Molly:
I have the cast aluminum handle for your heater but don't
yet own a digital camera, so it may be a few days before I
can take a 35 mm film photo and post it. In the meantime,
her is a poor word description. The handle is 2 inches long
with a small tapered point on one end and a raised rib
running down the back of the handle toward the broader tail
end. On the back side of the pointed end there is 5/8 inch
diameter raised circle that has a square hole centered in
it. The square hole goes over the control shaft and is
oriented in the circle with one corner pointing toward the
small arrow end of the handle.
Once you see the photos I will send, you might look around
on old handle shops for a similar handle to use on your
heater. It does not look to be an unusual handle; I'd think
finding a similar handle with the correct square hole
orientation would be harder than finding a similar handle.
Let me try to scan it on my scanner and send those images
to you.
Fred C.
Ken & Molly Reed wrote:
>
> Hello!
>
> I have acquired some nice parts out of a 1948 SOB trailer, which are
> identical to vintage Airstream parts. Included in these was a heater
> exactly like those used in Airstreams from the late 40s. It is rectangular
> in shape, 13x9x3.5 inches, art deco style painted-aluminum grill, has two
> ceramic bricks inside for transfer of heat, and is made by the Deluxe Wall
> Heater Company, model "Elite." Fred Coldwell, this is the one you sent us a
> photo of. It is complete except that it is missing the "key" which is used
> to turn it on and off. Does anyone have one of these heaters with a key?
> If so, would it be possible to have a duplicate made of the key (by
> casting/impression)? I would be very happy to pay for such duplication, so
> that I will be able to turn the heater on without using pliers every time!
> I realize some folks buy the trailer first, but I'm hoping that if I find
> enough parts, the 40s vintage trailer will come to me. Any help with that
> would be appreciated too! ;^)
>
> Ken & Molly Reed
> '57 Bubble, '57 Suburban
> Looking for that perfect 40s Clipper....
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 40
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 14:53:59 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fridge on LP
Blowing air through the chimney, will not remove the rust that collects. It
is the rust flakes that fall and get into the burner and orifice, that causes
the problems. Running steel wool through the chimney attached to a solid
wire, does remove the rust.
Air make help at the moment, but it is an unprofessional and lazy way, to
properly clean the chimney (flue).
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 41
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 15:04:55 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: new member
Chris,
I own a 59 Ambassador International that is in very original condition. I
have recently purchased a digital camera so I should be able to send you
what ever close ups you're looking for. Send me your requests off list and
what ever photos you have of "questionable" components.
Thanks,
Colin Hyde
57 Sovereign of the Road
59 Ambassador International
WBCCI, VAC 10247
Email: chyde@primelink1.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Herring" <cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 6:10 PM
Subject: [VAC] new member
> Hello,
>
> I am the proud new owner of '61 Airstream Ambassador. I've always admired
> the Airstream design but really did not know much about them until I
> acquired one. Now I am totally in love with them.
>
> I'm also very interesting in trading photos of similar units. I have a lot
> of questions about some of the items in my Airstream -- are they original
or
> not.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 42
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 15:53:30 -0600
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
on 10/05/02 11:25 PM, Kevin D Allen at overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net wrote:
> The only pest problem that I have noticed since this was installed is an
> increase in the number of spiders that find their way into the coach.
Hi Kevin,
Short of fumigating the entire interior, how do you control the sheer number
of spider offspring?
Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net
------------------------------
Message Number: 43
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 14:28:09 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Updating to External Utility Connections
Boise d'arc (e.g. osage orange, or hedge apple) fruits are sold in the
stores here and are supposed to suppress indoor insects. In Texas Boise
d'arc is pronounced "Bo dark". The wood makes good fence posts with
naturally great longevity.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 44
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 17:13:11 -0500
From: "David R. Warner, Jr" <david@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Front Table/Bunk Reconfiguration
We have a 77 Overlander (27 Feet) that has the front bunk and table constructed such that the table is attached to the front end of the trailer with the seats along each side. The table is lowered into the space between the seats in order to make a bunk
Thank You
_DAVID R. WARNER, JR.
<center>===========================================================
</center>
<center>David R. Warner, Jr.
19507 485th Lane
McGregor, Minnesota 55760
Phone 218-426-3900
David@xxxxxxxxxx.com
</center>
------------------------------
Message Number: 45
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 18:10:12 -0400
From: "Melissa Wright" <wrightmh@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Surreal Gourmet's Airstream
Please remove us from the list for now. Thanks all for you wonderful
advise!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 6:12 PM
Subject: [VAC] Surreal Gourmet's Airstream
> This is the first time the Surreal Gourmet has been on my "Food Channel"
> network. What a cool idea for an Airstream. Here's his web site:
>
> http://www.surrealgourmet.com/html/tv.html
>
> Bob Patterson
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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Message Number: 46
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 18:17:41 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Front Table/Bunk Reconfiguration
David,
I just opened an owners manual for a 77 and it shows pictures of the =
configuration you are talking about, so yes. Also, we had a 76 that had =
the couch in the front like you said. If you need an original owners =
manual for your 77, let me know off line.
Randy
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End of VACList-Digest #447
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