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VACList-Digest       Wednesday, April 17, 2002      Issue 276
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Re: Difficult window leaks
        2. Re: 
        3. Re: 
        4. Re: Tire Removal
        5. Re: 
        6. Re: 
        7. Re: Shower & Water Heater
        8. Re: indow leaks
        9. Re: vintage rules
       10. Re: FW: 25 year rule
       11. Re: Tire Removal
       12. Re: vintage rules
       13. Re: Tire Removal
       14. Re: Tire Removal
       15. Re: 
       16. Aluminum skin
       17. [Fwd: Old auto antenna reproductions]
       18. 25-year rule
       19. Re: Aluminum skin
       20. Re: Shower & Water Heater
       21. Fan/Light Fixtures
       22. Re: Fan/Light Fixtures
       23. Re: Aluminum skin




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:22:13 -0500
From: John Anderson <janderson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Difficult window leaks

Gary, of course there is always the garden hose/sprinkler leak test...more than
one way to skin the cat.

Gary Quamen wrote:

>  Problem is,I still have leaks from both the rear window and the kitchen
> window.I am not totally sure where the water is getting in,so let me try and
> describe what I see.....
>
> Hi again Charlotte:
>
> I too am fighting a couple of persistent leaks and have pretty much zeroed
> in on what I think is the source.  Now, all I have to do is get up there and
> deal with it.
>
> I think it is the awning track.  I can see where someone has applied sealant
> along the upper edge of the extrusion.  It has failed in places.  I actually
> can see daylight under the extrusion which tell me that the fasteners need
> to be drilled out and the extrusion bedded in Vulkem and re-riveted. If you
> don't have an awning installed (I do) it would be a fairly easy job.
>
> In my case, the leaks are generating much more water than would be expected
> from seams or running lights.  But half of the water that drains off of the
> roof is retained by the awning track until it can run off the ends of the
> track.  The leaks I have are only on the side with the awning.  I also have
> a leak by the galley window, but my other one is at the corner of the front
> window.  I made some foil "catchers" and directed the water into a bucket at
> each leak location.  I get much more water than a simple leak would produce
>
> You would not think that a leak originating from the top of the trailer
> could manifest itself as far away as the front window, but I think that it
> follows the frame rib under the end cap and shows up at the window.
>
> Unfortunately (in this case) the rains have about stopped until fall and I
> won't be able to really know for sure whether this fix will solve the
> problem, but I am confident that I'm headed in the right direction.
>
> Check it out.
>
> GQ '67 Safari
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:08:08 -0600
From: Don Binkley <binkbug@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 

I have posted this 4 times now with no response from anyone, since I am so
tired of getting all the stuff about if my trailer isn't 25 years old, I'm
going to be sooo upset....get real or get a life.  Here is my question once
again:  I have a 1969 Caravel, still has the rectangular window in rear.
not rounded corners like in the front.  I would like to replace all my
window screens which are giving out.  The rubber gasket (white) that holds
the  screen material in place, much like any screen door is also a cosmetic
trim piece and most of what I have is brittle.  Where can this trim gasket
be obtained? I really don't care if it is white or brown just so I can get
some from a supplier.  How many of you out there have 1969-1970's
Airstreams that will help me.  I have a trade for you.  I am a
cabinet-maker and I know where to get any kind of tambour door material
that you little heart desires...birch, ash, cherry, and oak yes kiddies
perhaps even walnut; cannot remember for sure right now.  It is cloth
backed and is available in 1/4, 3/8, and half inch splits and it's 3 and 4
feet wide....how bout that.  Don 1969 Caravel.




------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 21:46:58 -0500
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 

I did a 63 with what I found at Lowe's for regular windows.

Don Binkley wrote:

> I have posted this 4 times now with no response from anyone, since I am so
> tired of getting all the stuff about if my trailer isn't 25 years old, I'm
> going to be sooo upset....get real or get a life.  Here is my question once
> again:  I have a 1969 Caravel, still has the rectangular window in rear.
> not rounded corners like in the front.  I would like to replace all my
> window screens which are giving out.  The rubber gasket (white) that holds
> the  screen material in place, much like any screen door is also a cosmetic
> trim piece and most of what I have is brittle.  Where can this trim gasket
> be obtained? I really don't care if it is white or brown just so I can get
> some from a supplier.  How many of you out there have 1969-1970's
> Airstreams that will help me.  I have a trade for you.  I am a
> cabinet-maker and I know where to get any kind of tambour door material
> that you little heart desires...birch, ash, cherry, and oak yes kiddies
> perhaps even walnut; cannot remember for sure right now.  It is cloth
> backed and is available in 1/4, 3/8, and half inch splits and it's 3 and 4
> feet wide....how bout that.  Don 1969 Caravel.
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>




------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:56:26 -0600
From: gshippen <gshippen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Removal

Chris,

I think we are talking about two different types of axles.  Trailers with the
old springs and shackles would take a lot of raising because of the flex
action, however the rubber suspension type axles raise off the ground very
easily.  I often see my front axle in the air while the back axle carries all
the weight when crossing dips, etc. and visa versa, when the front axle is
carrying all the weight through the dip.  Theoretically with the newer axles
one should be able to travel with only one wheel if need be?

Cheers, GAS

Chris Bryant wrote:

> On Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:53:58 EDT, Andy wrote:
>
> >Don. You don't jack up your trailer. Break the lug nuts loose on the bad
> >wheel. Pull the other wheel up on some 2 x 6 " boards, high enough so that
> >the bad tire and wheel clear the ground. Then take the lugs nuts off, and
> >away you go. No need for jack at all.    Andy
>
>         You know, I have always heard that, but I never got it to
> work- I always wound up having to put a jack under the trailing arm to
> lift the tire off the ground enough to change it- I couldn't stack
> enough boards and still be able to pull only one wheel on to them.
>
> --
> Chris Bryant
> mailto:bryantrv@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:55:34 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: 

Any good hardware store that does screens should have the spline. I had
no trouble getting my '68 Caravel vent fan screen replaced. Just like
any other screen except its not flat. McMaster Carr has tubular Vinyl
Spline for screens, only in black, in diameters of 1/8", 9/64", 5/32",
and 11/64" for $1.42 to 1.49 per 25 foot roll. It should be in the good
hardware store in white, aluminum, and brown also.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 03:17:39 +0000
From: "Frank M. 'Mitch' Hill" <fmhill@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: 

At 20:08 04/16/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>I have posted this 4 times now with no response from anyone, since I am so
>tired of getting all the stuff about if my trailer isn't 25 years old, I'm
>going to be sooo upset....get real or get a life.  Here is my question once
>again:  I have a 1969 Caravel, still has the rectangular window in rear.
>not rounded corners like in the front.  I would like to replace all my
>window screens which are giving out.  The rubber gasket (white) that holds
>the  screen material in place, much like any screen door is also a cosmetic
>trim piece and most of what I have is brittle.  Where can this trim gasket
>be obtained?
.

You may have posted this message four times, however this is the first time I
have seen it.  Go to WWW.inlandrv.com, click on VINTAGE PARTS, scroll
down to the second page of parts listing, second item, #34658, Screen Fuzzy 
seal,  click on the  "View Part" box on this line, you can see a picture of 
this item. This may be what you are looking for...





Mitch Hill - WA1YKN / AFA1HN
64 AS Ambassador I'ntl
WBCCI #21960



------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:56:30 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <myairstream@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Shower & Water Heater


It's cut into the underneath of the sink with access through the 
bathtub.  When I had to replace the hose on my wand I thought to myself 
how convenient it was for Airstream to provide such an access hole.  I 
guess it was a previous owner instead of Airstream.  The hole is about 
7" in diameter and does not bother any tub or sink functionality.
Bob

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com=20
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
  Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 11:32 AM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: Shower & Water Heater


  Bob: Thanks for checking.  Is the hole cut into the fiberglass?  If it 
is, it was probably made by someone with my problem.  I may have to 
consider cutting the fiberglass myself and this sounds like it would be 
a good place to do it.=20
  Tom=20



------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 00:14:45 EDT
From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: indow leaks

Some of the window leaks and wet window sills and wet floors and wet under 
cabinet areas might come from a less obvious spot...namely high up on your 
roof. Water can get in at the base of the vents and under the skylight curbs. 
That water might travel internally down the inside skin of the shell and find 
it's way to the window tops where it might appear that you've got a window 
leaking. 

Bonnie and I were all over our roof in the last few weeks cleaning and 
resealing vents and the hood vent which had leaked so badly that it 
deteriorated the range and the cabinet under it. 

We used "Vulkum" and masked off exactly where we wanted it to go. I applied 
it with my finger in most cases...used considerable paper towels, then peeled 
up the tape carefully and presto the strips of vulkum run cleanly around the 
objects and areas to be sealed. We filled several holes including two bullet 
holes with this technique. We are curious to see how long it will last.

Thanks to Inland RV we were able to replace all the broken window cranks and 
missing handles and now imagine our thrill at being able to operate all the 
windows. The only tricky part was installing the little white plastic guides 
that slide. A few of the little springs went flying to places unknown! But 
suprisingly they work fine for now without those bothersome little springs!

We love to go outside to our "Project" and turn on all the lights, open and 
close the new (eBay found) screen door, sit on our restored couch, show it 
all proudly to friends that drop by...etc, you know what that's like.

Our next project will be to rebuild the fold out, expandible dining table. 
Stuart and Bonnie.

Resor Architect, 1268 Blue Sky Drive, Cardiff By The Sea, California 
92007-1005, 760-753-8022. Fax: 760-753-8058.


------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 00:11:59 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: vintage rules

Randy and others

The VACList is NOT the Vintage Airstream Club. What it is, is an outreach of
the club to help ALL owners of vintage Airstreams in the repair/restoration
of vintage Airstream products. The goal of this list is to freely share
information in order to encourage people to make the needed repairs to
maintain these products AND to attract new members to the VAC and WBCCI. The
VAC is a group of people within the WBCCI who own and use vintage Airstream
products. This list is just one arm of the club albeit a VERY popular one.
It was never meant to BE the club.

Since this list is just one arm of the club why should it be required that
EVERY member participate in the list? True, it would be nice if these
veterans of the club were more involved in this way, but they have chosen
not to be at this time. They have every right to do so. However, if you
happen to run into any of them at a rally or on the road they will most
certainly be the nicest, most helpful people you can possibly imagine. Two
years ago one of them drove me nearly 75 miles out of his way to help me
obtain a part to fix my tow vehicle. He would not even accept money for gas.

I hope that I have helped clarify things a bit. If not contact me offlist
at: s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net .

Monitor Scott

----- Original Message -----
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 8:32 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: vintage rules


> Is it really true that the board members don't subscribe to the list?
> I am sitting here looking at my application form and suddenly got
confused.
> Randy




------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:32:15 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: FW: 25 year rule

You can go to www.houstonchronicle.com and try searching the archives since
this was in the paper on 4/16. It was in the Metro / State section.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <llindner@xxxxxxxxxx.service.ohio-state.edu>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 5:42 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: FW: 25 year rule


> 4/16/2002 3:36:13 AM, Don Hardman <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>
> >Agreed, speaking of money pits, here is an article that appeared in
todays
> >Houston Chronicle about the fascination over Vintage Airstreams.
> >
>
> Don, I'd really like to read that article, but that long URL just took me
to the front page,
> and nothing a/s was listed.  Hope you can help.
>
>                            -- Lew #4239
> '72 Safari
> bicycle
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:35:47 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Removal


I was able to jack the trailer by placing a screw type jack at the frame 
just behind the rear wheel. But I am going to get one of those devices 
that you pull one wheel on to raise the other. Thanks for the help.

    I need to take one of my tires of, it has a slow leak. How do you 
jack up a 1976 31' Sovereign? The manual says there is a label on the 
frame to rear of the tire(s). I did not see one.

     Thanks



------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:53:18 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: vintage rules

Okay, I understand now.  Also understand that many members don't care to sit
in front of a computer when they could be out enjoying their trailers!  I
guess the important thing is that somehow, they "hear" the feelings of the
members.  I will join.
Randy

----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Scheuermann <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 11:11 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: vintage rules


> Randy and others
>
> The VACList is NOT the Vintage Airstream Club. What it is, is an outreach
of
> the club to help ALL owners of vintage Airstreams in the
repair/restoration
> of vintage Airstream products. The goal of this list is to freely share
> information in order to encourage people to make the needed repairs to
> maintain these products AND to attract new members to the VAC and WBCCI.
The
> VAC is a group of people within the WBCCI who own and use vintage
Airstream
> products. This list is just one arm of the club albeit a VERY popular one.
> It was never meant to BE the club.
>
> Since this list is just one arm of the club why should it be required that
> EVERY member participate in the list? True, it would be nice if these
> veterans of the club were more involved in this way, but they have chosen
> not to be at this time. They have every right to do so. However, if you
> happen to run into any of them at a rally or on the road they will most
> certainly be the nicest, most helpful people you can possibly imagine. Two
> years ago one of them drove me nearly 75 miles out of his way to help me
> obtain a part to fix my tow vehicle. He would not even accept money for
gas.
>
> I hope that I have helped clarify things a bit. If not contact me offlist
> at: s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net .
>
> Monitor Scott
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John R. Kleven" <jrkleven@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <VACList@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 8:32 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: vintage rules
>
>
> > Is it really true that the board members don't subscribe to the list?
> > I am sitting here looking at my application form and suddenly got
> confused.
> > Randy
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:53:01 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <nk7m@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Removal


I use a couple of those yellow leveling blocks to raise my '76 31' Sov. 
Just pull it up until the unaffected wheel is on the block, and the 
other one is clear of the ground and ready to change the tire/wheel.

Much more stable than a jack, as well.

Bob Hightower
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Don Hardman
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList
  Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 4:35 AM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: Tire Removal


  I was able to jack the trailer by placing a screw type jack at the 
frame just behind the rear wheel. But I am going to get one of those 
devices that you pull one wheel on to raise the other. Thanks for the 
help.

      I need to take one of my tires of, it has a slow leak. How do you 
jack up a 1976 31' Sovereign? The manual says there is a label on the 
frame to rear of the tire(s). I did not see one.

       Thanks



------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:20:43 -0400
From: William Jacobs <bjacobs1@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Removal



> Don Hardman wrote:
But I am going to get one of those devices that you pull one wheel on to
raise the other. 

I just use a 2 x 8.
bill
25 ft Trade Win in WV



------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 11:12:30 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: 

Don. The original screen beading material has been gone for 30 years. Use 
ordinary beading material that you can get at Home Depot. The screen also has 
two holes in it for the window lift arms. We have the plates with the fuzzy 
material in it. You can see them on our web site, inlandrv.com  Click on 
parts and then part number 34727, then click on view, to see it. Also, if you 
still have the "metal" window position guides, you should replace them with 
the plastic type. Those are also on sale on our web site, part numbers 34855 
and 34869.  Andy


------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:36:36 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <dkparins@ez-net.com>
Subject: Aluminum skin



Andy wrote:
> 
> Dick, 62 Bambi. The underbelly is not alclad. It's thickness is .024 inches.
> Alclad has never been used for any underbelly, that Airstream ever built.

Thanks Andy.  Just goes to prove I should never assume anything.  This
leaves two questions:

1)  What is the proper belly pan material called and where do I get it?
Aircraft Spruce has at least 3 different materials called Bare Aluminum
Sheet, 6061-0, 6061-T6 and 6061-T4.  None of these come in .024 thickness
(according to their website) but at least one (6061-T6) comes in ,025.

2)  What is the proper side wall material and thickness and where do I get
it?  Aircraft Spruce again has several different materials, for example
2024-0 and 7075-T6 which are called Alclad in many different thicknesses.

Thanks again.  I appreciate it.

Dick, '62 Bambi



------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:10:53 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Old auto antenna reproductions]

Last night I overheard a friend talking about vintage cars and antennas
on the ham rig, so I asked him for sources of the older antenna styles.
McQuiston, Mike wrote:
> 
>  I found a few locations that supply reproductions of original auto
> antenna's. The Chevy types at 50's through current. The Ford  resources are
> more for 40's through 60's.
> 
> Chevy:
>         Classic Industries, Inc                 www.classicindustries.com
>         Impala Bobs                     1-800-467-2527
> 
> Ford:
>         MAC's                           1-800-777-0948
>         Bob Drake Reproductions, Inc.   1-800-221-3673
> 
> Hope this helps. These are not "cheap" solutions but period accurate.  I
> think other catalogs like J. C. Whitney's still exist and may also have
> lower priced solutions.
> Good Luck,
> 
> Mike

Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:20:53 -0600
From: "Randy Unter" <runter@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: 25-year rule

It disturbs me that folks are even thinking about sub-dividing VAC members.
The joy of being a VAC-er is to celebrate the diversity represented by the
different age/model a/s and their owners. Here in the Rocky Mountains, we
even welcome Avions to our rallies and enjoy studying the differences in
design/construction. On April 26-28, the RM VAC Group will be joining the
Denver Area WBCCI Club for a rally east of Denver at the Ainsworth Ranch. We
will have at least 10 vintage a/s there-even Roger Hightower is coming up
from Mesa, AZ to attend (he's been looking for  a reason to test his new
Power Stroke). Windish Airstream will have one of the new "techie" a/s
models for us to view, and Fred Coldwell, VAC Historian,  will be reciting
Airstream history and VAC and show the new "burned to DVD" Capetown to Cairo
film of Wally's now famous Rally.  I credit Louie DeCarolis, Denver WBCCI
President and VAC convert for pulling this all together. So for those who
bought a new a/s to retire in, this should be an eye opener for them.
I'll be taking photos and send them along to Bryan for the newsletter.

Randy Unter
'66 Overlander International
Region 11 VAC Representative




------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:49:54 -0400
From: Garnett Horner <garnett@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum skin

Dick,

I think 5052 would be a good choice for the belly skin.  I don't know where 
you could get it or if it comes in the size you want.  Just my opinion.

Garnett
WDCU OBX Rally, Aug. 15-18, 2002
60 Caravanner



------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:53:43 EDT
From: Tombhs@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Shower & Water Heater



Bob: There is noting like that on my unit.  But sounds like a good place to 
put an access hole.  Thanks again.
Tom


------------------------------

Message Number: 21
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:16:05 -0400
From: Hoyt Oliver <hedgehog@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Fan/Light Fixtures

I have a 1975 Land Yacht 25' which has yellowed extensively on all interior
surfaces. The vinyl trim and the plastic light fixtures are particularly
affected. How can I get the yellow out. I am reminded of the old Ipana
Toothpaste commercial when I ask that question. Also, is there a prohibition
against using cleaning solutions with ammonia, vinegar and baking soda
ingredients on interior and exterior surfaces?
Thanks
Hoyt Oliver 


------------------------------

Message Number: 22
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 14:17:09 EDT
From: Inlandrv@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: Fan/Light Fixtures

Hoyt. The lenses must be replaced. We have them as well as many other items 
on sale on our web site, inlandrv.com      Andy


------------------------------

Message Number: 23
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:10:22 -0400
From: "Thomas LaVergne" <tlavergne@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum skin



  I just got some of the underbelly material from Airstream in Jackson
Center.  I can't remember what I paid but it was not much.  They can
probably roll it into a tube and ship it.
  Thomas
  "78 Ambassador




------------------------------


End of VACList-Digest  #276
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