The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #97
VAL Digest Monday, December 15 2003 Volume 01 : Number 097
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Shower curtain glides
Re: [VAL] Parts help
RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Re: [VAL] Shower curtain glides
Re: [VAL] Shower curtain glides
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Hauling bikes
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Using the engine for braking on grades
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Spare tires, bikes, etc. on the rear bumper?
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Towing two trailers?
[VAL] Re: Replacing a range
Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Re: [VAL] Re: Replacing a range
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Using the engine for braking on grades
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Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 23:08:56 -0800
From: "Stephanie Roberts" <stefrobrts@stephanies-mustang.com>
Subject: [VAL] Shower curtain glides
All this talk about shower heads and curtain glides have got me to thinking
about replacing my shower curtain, but the glides which are sewn onto the
curtain itself are the only thing holding me back. Are these little sliders
available or do I need to carefully salvage the ones off the original
curtain? I'd prefer to use new ones so I can just store the original curtain
intact.
Stephanie
68 Caravel
WBCCI # 3717
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 09:57:33 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Parts help
Hi Glyn,
In my '73, the arm holes are in the screen frame. There is supposed to
be something to keep the bugs from coming in those slots. Mine has and
had the "bug fuzzie " strips, two strips of stiff grey fringe that are
glued on the back side of the screen. They part to let the arm go
through and keep the bigs out of the rest of it. There is also a clear
sliding 2 layer plastic thingy that will do the same thing.
Dunno what a '69 would have, but keeping the bugs out is a good idea....
Daisy
Glyn Judson wrote:
> All,
>
> There appears to be some sort of missing surround piece that decorates
> the edges of the vertical slots that the window actuating arms move in. On
> my Caravel there is a definite discoloration in the vinyl clad inner skin
> that's about 1/2" wide all the way around all the slots. If there was
> something there, it's been systematically removed from every slot.
>
> Does anyone know if in fact there should be something there and if I can
> get identical replacement parts somewhere?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn
> 1969 Caravel, #508
> Santa Monica CA
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 08:27:50 -0500
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Hello All,
Thanks for the feed back on PEX. I was able to go to the local hardware
store this weekend and look this over. When I break it all down, cost of
materials, new tool, time to learn how to use it etc. Add to it that I
have nothing inside the shell that will interfere with my work, I'm
still thinking that copper is the way to go as well as easier to work
with..... I think.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign (all copper and still solid after 35 years)
59 Traveler (right now all I have is a bucket and a Gopher Hole)
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Brad Norgaard
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 1:23 AM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Hi Ed,
If I were to venture a reasonable guestimate, I would say 16' is the
longest run. There are only two hot water outlets, one at the galley
sink and the other in the shower/tub combo. I chose not to put in a
bathroom cabinet and/or sink - takes up too much valuable room.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT
> Hello Brad,
> How far is the water heater to the outlet in your trailer? I have an
> 18 footer and wondering if I need to wrap. Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Brad Norgaard
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 9:58 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
>
>
> Hi Ed and Jim,
> When redoing my '59 Trade Wind several years ago, I chose to use PEX.
> It is somewhat flexible while being very strong. It is re-enforced
> poly tubing. It cuts easily and uses quick connect elbows, T's and
> valves. I've not experienced any problems with it since installing it.
> When installing, I wrapped a slotted insulation tube everywhere aft of
> the water heater on the hot side. This keeps the water extremely hot
> and at the rear, I can tell the hot from the cold water line quite
> easily. Good luck in whatever your decision.
>
> Brad Norgaard
> Phoenix
> '59 Trade Wind Twin
> VAC #2699, TCT
>
>
>
>> Oh what timing!
>> I am in the process of determining what to use on my 59 restoration
>> project, PEX, copper, PVC or anything else someone might have had
>> good
>
>> luck with. I'm lucky as I have a gutted trailer (slowly going back
>> together) and I think I have some flexibility with what is used. Are
>> there any pluses or minuses that we should consider? To be honest I
>> have never seen PEX, or maybe I have and never realized it. Ed
>> WBCCI/VAC 4425 68 Sovereign (all copper)
>> 59 Traveler (TBD)
>>
>>
>>
>> I have to re-plumb part of my 67 TW, and may do it all with PEX. It
>> seems that there are several brands. Qest is available in the local
>> store and others on the internet. I would like to run different
>> connections from a manifold. Your opinions on which band to use
>> would
>
>> be helpful. Easy of use and long-term reliability are bigger issues
>> than cost.
>>
>> I'm leaning toward PEX because I don't see how I could get copper
>> around the bends without removing showers and cabinets, and I have
>> read that it is a little more tolerant to freezing.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> Jim
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 09:52:28 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Shower curtain glides
Hi Stephanie,
After I ordered These from Arlene Fowler( fowlerinteriors@xxxxxxxxxx.net) who
does Airstream Ineriors, i found them at my local RV store !
They are a kirsh product and still made. # 92122 Sew on tab.
Daisy
Stephanie Roberts wrote:
> All this talk about shower heads and curtain glides have got me to thinking
> about replacing my shower curtain, but the glides which are sewn onto the
> curtain itself are the only thing holding me back. Are these little sliders
> available or do I need to carefully salvage the ones off the original
> curtain? I'd prefer to use new ones so I can just store the original curtain
> intact.
>
> Stephanie
> 68 Caravel
> WBCCI # 3717
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 10:05:24 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Shower curtain glides
Measure one and try the drapery shops, RV stores, just like for the
drapery glides. They do come in various sizes, and those originals are
about as strong as a sugar cookie. You will want new ones, I'm sure.
Gerald
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 08:52:46 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Hauling bikes
If your bike is only 15# it is a $1,000+ bike. If it was mine I would
pack it in a hard case for air shipping and put it inside the trailer or
tow vehicle.
Bikes hung on the outside of a vehicle will get really filthy unless
completely contained in a soft zippered cover. The air blast will stuff
the chain and all other moving parts full of fine grit.
Front mount bike carriers are not uncommon. I see a few here and there.
Just make sure the lights are not blocked. If the bikes are not covered
the radiator airflow should not be reduced significantly.
Al Grayson
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 10:28:36 -0800 (PST)
> From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: bike racks
>
> I've got a tire mounted on the rear bumber of my
> trailer (1960 tradewind) and I can't imagine my bike
> would even come close to that weight - although I
> don't think my bike weighs more than 15 pounds...
>
> wouldn't it make sense to attach them to the tow
> vehicle?
>
> here's a thought, though I don't know how legal it is:
> I've heard of having a hitch receiver installed on
> the front of your vehicle (handy for parking a trailer
> in a tight spot) why couldn't you attach a
> receiver-style bike rack to the front and put your
> bikes there?
>
> It would be silly if you were trying to haul more than
> just a couple bikes, but it's a thought!
>
> Toby
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 09:45:30 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Using the engine for braking on grades
On our trip down from Montana I got a lesson that I should have figured
out ahead of time.
When I was creeping down a slick icy grade toward Helena, I had the
xmission in 1st for braking. A tremendous cross wind gust hit, pushing
the rear of our van and of course the front of the trailer sideways. By
giving it a little gas, the braking load was removed from the rear wheels
of the van, allowing them to grip and straighten the rig up. Naturally
this made it whip the other way, but quick action with the steering wheel
evened it out and we got straight again. If I had had a manual shift I
would have just released the clutch to let the rear wheels roll free and
stop the skid but with the automatic it is much harder to go to a higher
range. Glad I had made a restroom stop not long before....
Braking (or driving) load on the drive wheels, the middle wheels of the
combination, reduces their side traction. I should have been using the
manual control for the trailer brakes, but on a long downgrade I am
concerned about overheating them - the drums are rather thin and
lightweight compared to the enormous finned drums on the back of the van.
Al Grayson
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 17:20:34 -0800
> From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAL] We're Home! (Long)
>
.........................................................................
....................................
>
> As to the feared and dreaded Questa grade, (thanks anyway Susan)
> I had gained enough confidence at that point with the performance of
the
> truck that I took it without trepidation. The truck has overdrive
which I
> used all the time on the road. It came in especially handy on serious
> downgrades like Questa where all I had to do was to disengage it with
the push
> of a conveniently located button on the end of the shift selector. In
> this mode, my speed never exceeded 60 MPH without ever having to touch
> the brakes. I kept a very safe distance between me and all vehicles
> ahead of me at all times and never even got close to a panic situation.
Well,
> that's not true, I had four or five cases of cars slipping in front of
me
> with very little wiggle room to spare. That's when Dr. Adrenaline took
over
> the driving and he and I just backed off and let them go their way.
> There were no real close calls at all.
>
...............................................
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 09:24:32 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Spare tires, bikes, etc. on the rear bumper?
Weight behind the axles of your trailer tends to cause or aggravate sway.
The more weight and the further behind the axles, the worse.
Our trailer has a large rear trunk in which the previous owner stored his
trailer dolly, which is a really heavy hunk of steel. Spare tire, jacks,
spare parts, etc., are also in the trunk, and our two bikes are on a rear
bumper carrier also. Not good but we get away with it. We have never had
any sway whatever even with no sway control (forgot to tighten it) but I
do put the dolly up front in the living room.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 09:59:43 -0800
> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Bike Racks
>
> Not sure where this "no bike rack or spare tires on bumpers" got
started...........
> >
> > Ruth Warren & the Tin Can Clan
> > 1961 Tradewind>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 09:10:35 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Towing two trailers?
Towing a trailer behind a trailer is illegal in a number of states, such
as Oregon. According to Oregon DMV, that it is legal in your home state
does not allow you to tow two trailers in Oregon.
While we were staying in Montana I read of a terrible crash just a few
miles from us involving a boat towed behind a travel trailer and pickup.
Seems the pickup driver was trying to pass a slow moving vehicle. The
boat trailer wheel dropped off the pavement and got hung. This, of
course, pulled the tail of the TT to that side. When the boat trailer
wheel came loose from the edge of the pavement, it lurched across the
road, whipping the tail of the TT across to the other side. The whole rig
went off the road, overturning the PU and killing the driver and his
wife. Mother in law survived.
Just watching the "double-bottom" and "triple-bottom" trucks swaying, or
veering if you please, all over the road makes me leery of towing a
second trailer behind a TT, even a 5th wheel. After all, those trucks are
5th-wheelers and have almost no rear overhang, unlike our
"teeter-trailer" travel trailers which have a LOT of rear overhang. The
5th wheel TTs also have a lot of rear overhang.
We were almost hit by double bottom trucks twice on our recent 1,000 mile
trip, and once on our previous 1,000+ mile trip. I shudder to think of
dodging double and triple bottom trucks with my own two trailers swaying
all over the place behind me.
Al Grayson
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 11:54:01 -0600
> From: "Don Hardman" <donhardman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: bike racks
>
..........................................................
>
> I agree, but I have seen some people attach a hitch ball to the bumper
of an Airstream trailer and then pull a boat behind the Airstream. I
would never try anything like that but I have actually seen it done.
Strange site going down the highway.
...............................
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 08:35:28 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: Replacing a range
Does anyone know of a range that is made largely of aluminum? Seems like
that would be just the thing to reduce weight. All the ones I see are
steel.
Piezo ignition preferred, too, or at least 12V electric ignition, no
pilot lights.
Al Grayson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 12:34:49 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] PEX plumbing
Ed, I would tend to agree with you, especially since the interior is out!
You take care of your stuff, so I know that you will always have it
winterized in time for those COLD Wisconsin winters.
Scott
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Emerick" <EEMERICK@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 8:27 AM
Subject: RE: [VAL] PEX plumbing
> Hello All,
> Thanks for the feed back on PEX. I was able to go to the local hardware
> store this weekend and look this over. When I break it all down, cost of
> materials, new tool, time to learn how to use it etc. Add to it that I
> have nothing inside the shell that will interfere with my work, I'm
> still thinking that copper is the way to go as well as easier to work
> with..... I think.
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign (all copper and still solid after 35 years)
> 59 Traveler (right now all I have is a bucket and a Gopher Hole)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 13:20:06 -0600
From: Jim Clark <jec1938@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Replacing a range
Al:
We just replaced the Magic Chef in our trailer with a new Magic Chef that
had Piezo electric (easy for you to say) ignition for the top burners.. I
think the oven is still light the pilot to get it running... The box is
steel, but not very heavy... I did the replacement myself and had no
difficulty lifting the unit into the old slot... The fit was exact, right
down to the location of the screws that held it in... I had to cut about 6"
of the gas feed, due to a new regulator on the new stove that was not on
the old stove... other than that, I would say absolutely no difficulty...
Looking forward to using the new 3 burner configuration... The 4 burner
does not have a higher output burner...
I am sure you might save a few pounds with an aluminum stove, but the total
saved is probably not worth the aggravation in finding the thing... Go for
the features you like in a stove... weight be damned...leave a few gallons
of water at home if you think you are too heavy...
Have fun....
Jim
At 08:35 AM 12/14/2003, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of a range that is made largely of aluminum? Seems like
>that would be just the thing to reduce weight. All the ones I see are
>steel.
>Piezo ignition preferred, too, or at least 12V electric ignition, no
>pilot lights.
>Al Grayson
>
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 12:40:37 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #94 - Using the engine for braking on grades
Tom:
That sounds especially spooky to me since I'm not sure what all
occurred - "braking load" etc., having grown up and driven mostly in
the lowlands. I do intend to take the new Bubble to Montana to fly fish
and since we did hit snow in April just out of Reno, I feel that I need
to gain some skills on vehicle handling + trailer before I take off
again.
Jo Ann
On 14, Dec 2003, at 7:45 AM, waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> On our trip down from Montana I got a lesson that I should have figured
> out ahead of time.
> When I was creeping down a slick icy grade toward Helena, I had the
> xmission in 1st for braking.
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #97
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