The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #75
VAL Digest Sunday, November 23 2003 Volume 01 : Number 075
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] Road worthiness
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] To buy or not to buy?
[VAL] Tow Vehicle/ Oil Capacity
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
Re: [VAL] Tow Vehicle/ Oil Capacity
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #74 - Diesels
[VAL] testing lights
RE: [VAL] testing lights
Re: [VAL] testing lights
Re: [VAL] testing lights
[VAL] Al Grayson, re: your - Diesels
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 09:38:36 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Road worthiness
Ivan ,
When you fish the new wire for the 7 way plug , ( I tape two string to the old
,securely , and pull that thru the tongue ,then tape the strings to the new, and
pull that thru ) dont forget to pull two wires for a breakaway switch at the same
time ( use two strings ,after the 7 wire umbilical ,pull the breakaway wires the
same way ) that way you dont have to splice into the umbilical at the tongue ( I
use sealed connector plugs and wire) you can do it under /in the trailer
.Breakaway switches are needed for any trailer over 2000 lbs here to be legal ,
and its hard to fish the wires if you dont do it all at once .
How do I know this ? !!!
Chris 63 cloud
Ivan wrote:
> Perhaps corrode is the wrong word. The wires are extremely dried out and
> crumbly. One touch and the shielding crumbles off. I can't test which
> wires go to which because there is nothing but copper showing at this
> point.... I'm going to se where the wires go this afternoon when I drop the
> belly pan. Hopefully I can just run new wires from the somewhat protected
> ones just under the skin....
>
> -Ivan
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 14:26:51 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
I have a '73 Ambassador too with backup lights.
Not sure if there is a diagram in the book on it but I will look.
My light over the door quit so I got to find the problem with it now, so I'll
be checking for a diagram
on it.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: YCGPKYLEJGDGVC
Well, there are white lights in the back of the '73 that light up when I
back up...
Daisy
Roger Hightower wrote:
> OK, so who has a backup light circuit on their trailer? I don't recall
one
> in the diagram, but then mine isn't here where I can check it easily.
>
> I thought there was just turn (L/R), tail, stop, markers, and brake.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Hightower
> WBCCI #4165,VAC
> 1975 31' Sovereign
> Mesa, AZ
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 14:42:53 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] To buy or not to buy?
At $3500 it should be ready to go.
I didn't see any gold plating anywhere on it either.
Maybe $900-1000 tops.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: TNHGSWZIDREXCAXZO
Hi All,
After reading a bunch of the responses on and off list I will be dropping my
offering price to less than a third. While Amy and I would like to purchase
this one since it fits our needs and it was "Family owned" it my be
impossible. When the current owner comes up in the future to visit and
discuss the TradeWind I will show him everything that needs to be worked on.
Maybe it will work out.
Chris, Amy, Natalie, Jordan Tognetti
Willie (Alaskan Malamute)
59 TradeWind "Maybe"
Newton, New Jersey
Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:Well found out that I would be
the third owner if we can work out a price. Current asking price is $3500.
What it needs to be road ready:
A LOT OF WORK!
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 14:58:24 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Tow Vehicle/ Oil Capacity
Hello ALL
Just curious on what the oil capacity is on some of the new vehicles today.
For my 1988 Chevy with the 5.7L or 350 motor the capacity is 5 quarts with new
filter.
On our 2002 Suburban with the 5.3L the capacity is 6.0 quarts with new
filter.
A friend of mine with a Ford 5.4L requires 7 quarts.
My '88 truck has over 220,000 plus miles on it now, but it seems that the new
vehicles
with higher oil capacity should last longer, if of course they are properly
maintained.
And oil changes is very important, especially if you tow a lot.
Reply back and let me know year, make, model, engine, oil capacity.
Thanks
Bobby Gill
Valdosta, GA
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 15:15:05 -0500
From: Dick Kenan <as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
My '72 Safari had backup lights.
- - Dick
(5368)
At 02:26 PM 11/22/2003, you wrote:
>I have a '73 Ambassador too with backup lights.
>Not sure if there is a diagram in the book on it but I will look.
>My light over the door quit so I got to find the problem with it now, so I'll
>be checking for a diagram
>on it.
>
>Bobby
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: YCGPKYLEJGDGVC
> Well, there are white lights in the back of the '73 that light up when I
> back up...
>
> Daisy
>
> Roger Hightower wrote:
>
> > OK, so who has a backup light circuit on their trailer? I don't recall
>one
> > in the diagram, but then mine isn't here where I can check it easily.
> >
> > I thought there was just turn (L/R), tail, stop, markers, and brake.
> >
> > Roger
> >
> > Roger Hightower
> > WBCCI #4165,VAC
> > 1975 31' Sovereign
> > Mesa, AZ
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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"The trouble with most folks isn't so much their ignorance, as knowing so
many things that ain't so."
- -- Josh Billings
- ---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 13:44:52 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #66 - Backup lights
I've gone to the trailer, and found the diagram that shows the backup light
circuit.....black wire to the seven-pin connector. Now all I have to do is
figure out the truck end, and that shouldn't be too hard.
Thanks for the posts on this.
Roger
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 13:27:22 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Tow Vehicle/ Oil Capacity
> Hello ALL
> Just curious on what the oil capacity is on some of the new vehicles
today.
Don't know for sure but I suspect 4-wheel drive might have something to do
with it. On my 4WD '92 Ford F150 with a 5.8L V8 the oil capacity is 6
quarts. And my 72 Bronco with a 302 V8 had 7 quart capacity as I recall. I
imagine that it is because of the weird angles that the vehicle is expected
to operate at vs the oil sump design.
Or not......<grin>
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 22:04:57 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #74 - Diesels
What are (is) the advantage(s) of diesel engines in RV and personal travel service?
I had one, a '94 Ford turbodiesel F250 4x4 SuperCab, and I can't think of any that are
not directly related to mileage.
All parts were more expensive than their gas engine counterparts, such as the starter
($250 rebuilt vs. $35 rblt), the fan clutch ($200 vs. $40), oil filters ($10 vs. $3-$5),
oil (more expensive 15W40 plus more frequent oil changes and nearly twice as much oil to
refill), and a few more items.
Then, the diesel was rated at only 190 HP while a similar gasser with 460 is rated over
100 HP higher. S-L-O-O-O-W up the Cascades and Rockies. The big gas PUs zoomed past me
towing huge 5th wheelers that weighed 2-3 times as much as my trailer.
Then, the rattle and stink. The diesel oil tracked into the cab.
Diesel PUs roar past the RV park all day and night. Many make more noise than the 18-wheelers.
Diesel PUs come in and out of the park, blasting us with their clatter. Very disturbing to
the peace. I would give great preference to a park that banned diesels from the premises. Even
the diesel MHs, which one would think have plenty of room for effective muffler and sound
deadening, make much more noise than the gas MHs.
The Dodge-Cummins are the worst. Don't they have mufflers?
When I was out on my bicycle today, a diesel PU went by on the other side of the 5-lane road,
making such a racket that it left my ears ringing. I could hardly hear traffic for several
minutes.
Has anyone run a cost comparison between the same vehicle in gas and diesel versions (RV or
other heavy trailer pulling service)?
Al Grayson
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 18:54:31 -0500
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] testing lights
I plan on changing and testing new clearance lights on my Bambi and would
like to do it without the tow vehicle hooked up. Is testing them just a matter
of connecting the negative battery post to the frame and a 15amp fused line
from the battery to one of the seven contacts on the plug? I am trying to
replace the plastic backed tear shaped lights with the aluminum ones which I
think would look more like the originals. I tried replacing them a while back
and kept blowing fuses... I going to try it again.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 19:28:21 -0600
From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.isunet.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] testing lights
Yes. But for easier testing if you are having ground shorts, use a 50 watt 12 volt light bulb
(available at Walmart RV deparment) instead of the fuse. The lamp will prevent damage and indicate
when there are shorts, yet pass enough voltage to run the running lights when there are no shorts.
Gerald J.
- ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 18:54:31 -0500
> I plan on changing and testing new clearance lights on my Bambi and would
>like to do it without the tow vehicle hooked up. Is testing them just a matter
>of connecting the negative battery post to the frame and a 15amp fused line
>from the battery to one of the seven contacts on the plug? I am trying to
>replace the plastic backed tear shaped lights with the aluminum ones which I
>think would look more like the originals. I tried replacing them a while back
>and kept blowing fuses... I going to try it again.
>
>Jim
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 23:02:47 -0500
From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] testing lights
Interesting, how does the bulb work? Does it just stay off when there is a
short? How does it protect the wiring from a short?
Thankyou,
Jim
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.isunet.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Cc: <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2003 8:28 PM
Subject: RE: [VAL] testing lights
> Yes. But for easier testing if you are having ground shorts, use a 50 watt
12 volt light bulb (available at Walmart RV deparment) instead of the fuse.
The lamp will prevent damage and indicate when there are shorts, yet pass
enough voltage to run the running lights when there are no shorts.
>
> Gerald J.
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 18:54:31 -0500
>
> > I plan on changing and testing new clearance lights on my Bambi and
would
> >like to do it without the tow vehicle hooked up. Is testing them just a
matter
> >of connecting the negative battery post to the frame and a 15amp fused
line
> >from the battery to one of the seven contacts on the plug? I am trying to
> >replace the plastic backed tear shaped lights with the aluminum ones
which I
> >think would look more like the originals. I tried replacing them a while
back
> >and kept blowing fuses... I going to try it again.
> >
> >Jim
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 23:24:33 -0800
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] testing lights
There won't be a short with the bulb in the circuit, as a short would just
cause the bulb to burn at full brightness.
The bulb would stay on with a short and off with an open. A short is zero
resistance and the bulb has resistance
whereas a fuse doesn't. A short would blow the fuse but light the bulb.
best,
Michelle
"People will forget what you said. People will forget what you do. People
will never forget how you made them feel."
Interesting, how does the bulb work? Does it just stay off when there is a
short? How does it protect the wiring from a short?
Thankyou,
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 00:40:51 -0500
From: "T o m" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Al Grayson, re: your - Diesels
Seems like you really just wanted to bitch about your diesel experiences, Al
Grayson. From the sound of your post I would seriously doubt you really
want any honest answers.
Take comfort in the fact that when all the diesels ruining your one on one
communicating with nature are done with your hearing issues ... well, at
least that will be one BIG issue you won't have to deal with anymore. Your
hearing that is.
Hope you feel better after venting at those of us who really NEED a truck
with ballz to haul our stuff.
Tom
Al Grayson said:
What are (is) the advantage(s) of diesel engines in RV and personal travel
service?
I had one, ...
... a '94 Ford turbodiesel F250 4x4 SuperCab,
... I can't think of any that are not directly related to mileage.
All parts were more expensive than their gas engine counterparts,
... the starter ($250 rebuilt vs. $35 rblt),
... the fan clutch ($200 vs. $40),
... oil filters ($10 vs. $3-$5),
... oil (more expensive 15W40
... plus more frequent oil changes
... nearly twice as much oil to refill),
... and a few more items.
Then, the rattle and stink.
The diesel oil tracked into the cab.
Diesel PUs roar past the RV park all day and night.
Many make more noise than the 18-wheelers.
Diesel PUs come in and out of the park, blasting us with their clatter.
Very disturbing to the peace.
I would ... banned diesels from the premises.
Even the diesel MHs, ... much more noise than the gas MHs.
The Dodge-Cummins are the worst. Don't they have mufflers?
When I was out on my bicycle today, ...
a diesel PU
... left my ears ringing.
I could hardly hear traffic for several minutes.
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #75
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