The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #7
VAL Digest Monday, September 15 2003 Volume 01 : Number 007
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Topics in Today's Digest:
RE: [VAL] Painting and Repairing Plastic
[VAL] (fwd) Identity thief nabs victims at Kinkos
[VAL] Introduction
[VAL] (fwd) Identity thief nabs victims at Kinkos
[VAL] Weak Brake lights
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Re: [VAL] Painting the plastic wood
RE: [VAL] Painting /adding style
Re: [VAL] Painting and Repairing Plastic
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
[VAL] Re:Dometic Refrigerator
[VAL] Re: [VACList] Truck Tires?
[VAL] Vintage Trailers for sale
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Re: [VAL] Re:Dometic Refrigerator
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Re: [VAL] Dometic Refrigerator
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:52:13 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Painting and Repairing Plastic
I can actually voice some experience here since this is one of the few
things I know about.
...actually that's about the only subject I feel like somewhat an expert
on when we removed and refinished the bath plastic and fiberglass. I
read everything I could about ABS on the net.
I did a lot of repair on my sailboat and used some deck paint on it, so
I trusted West Marine for a paint. I used a good sturdy one step paint
and not an epoxy and I'm happy with it resisting chips ..cuz it would
have after all the tugging and pulling we did reinstalling it. The old
plastic and fiberglass tub were faded yellow and the steps I took were:
I sanded the parts with rough paper according to the primer directions
and washed them well with a special solvent they recommended....lightly,
cuz too much weakened the plastic until it evaporated. I wiped it with
water to remove solvent.
I patched several places with fiberglass fixit kit...bondo stuff and I
used epoxy on the plastic where there were some breaks. I cut pieces of
an old ABS a/c cover as reinforcement in back of the splits, holes and
other fixes and ground deep grooves with a Dremel tool to make them
rough so the epoxy would have "tooth" to grab and hold. Sanded and
cleaned all the fixes when they cured. This is busy work but not hard
and sorta fun.
I sprayed primer on all parts let them dry and sanded and resprayed
primer[aspecial one for leveling and adhesion]....it's for a good
adhesion and it levels the fixes well. These are 2 light coats.
I set up a huge spray booth in my pool shelter covering it with plastic
sheets and duct tape....hanging thin dry cleaner sheets in back of each
item I coated so I could throw them away.
I used a turn table so I could turn the parts too as I sprayed. I have
a 5 hp compressor I use in my pottery so I'm familiar with spray paint.
The thinner that washes out the sprayer is expensive and dangerous so
wear good respirator mask...about $40. I also wore an old bathrobe and
shower caps and used lots of vinyl gloves....latex gloves melt with the
thinner. Washing out the sprayer was the hardest and most dangerous
part.
I sprayed on 2 coats of the $40 a quart ivory deck paint drying and
sanding in between. All this took me a month due to a wet fall and I
needed dry weather. I would bring each piece inside and let it dry on
the dining table. In 2 weeks after the last coat the finish was cured
and much harder than I thought at first. I will keep the paint on hand
to touch up places and trim and rivet heads.
I am going to put these directions and some pix on my website soon so it
can help others. There are some pix of the "almost" finished bath on:
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/dew1.htm
We still are working on the doors
Lexxy/aka/Lynn
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 14:54:10 -0500
From: schuetzen <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] (fwd) Identity thief nabs victims at Kinkos
To: "ProAmericaGrassroots"
<ProAmericaGrassroots@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Identity thief nabs victims at Kinkos
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:43:50 -0400
Identity thief nabs victims at Kinko's:
Case highlights risks of using public Internet
terminals. The software is one of several keystroke
loggers available for businesses and parents to
monitor their employees and children.
For more than a year, unbeknownst to people who used
Internet terminals at Kinko's stores in New York, Juju
Jiang was recording what they typed, paying particular
attention to their passwords. Jiang had secretly
installed, in at least 14 Kinko's copy shops, software
that logs individual keystrokes. He captured more than
450 user names and passwords, and used them to access
and open bank accounts online ... more here:
http://stacks.msnbc.com/news/943043.asp
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:47:29 -0400
From: "Barbara" <franklyb@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Introduction
Please allow me to introduce myself as I an new to the list. I am
looking forward to reading your posts and learning from them. We are the
new owners of a 1978, 25 foot, Caravanner Land Yacht (built in 1977). We
are located in north central Florida and hope to do some camping in state
parks if we ever get everything on our trailer figured out.
Since we've had our trailer, we've done a lot of refurbishing. I still
need to learn how to clean up the outside in order to get a uniform
appearance on the aluminum, but I'm sure that will come in time.
We'll be taking her down to a dealer in a few weeks to get a new air
conditioner and have them check out all systems. After that, we should be
ready to try our hand at camping.
Barbara
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:23:18 -0500
From: schuetzen <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] (fwd) Identity thief nabs victims at Kinkos
I would like to apologize to the list for posting this as it was completely off
topic, was a violation of list rules and obviously had NOTHING whatsoever to do
with vintage airstreams. I promise I will try very hard to never do such again.
I hope that all will forgive me for my lapse in good judgement. I _DO_ know
better but the altruistic spirit was shaking me<G>.
chas
- --
Charles Hamilton, Houston, TX chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net www.schuetzen.net
'77 Sovereign, '02 E350 SD PSD, Pullrite+Prodigy
S*M*A*R*T, WBCCI/DC #1130, VAC
.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:27:01 -0500
From: schuetzen <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
I have a problem which I cannot seem to correct,
My wife (SWMBO) is ticked at the weak output of the "red" lights on the back of
the Sovereign. I have removed the covers, cleaned them (not needed), cleaned
the reflective surface (like new and not needed) and even changed the light
bulbs. I have even gone so far as to change the '90 Suburban for a 2002 Ford
E350 Diesel puller.!
That has not helped either.
Where am I losing voltage er, current?
thanks
chas
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:36:02 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Probably the ground connection. Maybe the lamp sockets.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 18:28:45 -0500
From: schuetzen <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:36:02 -0500, you wrote:
>Probably the ground connection. Maybe the lamp sockets.
shouldn't I be checking at the Univolt and then down line from there? or should
I check each light's ground? I would assume that the general ground is poor in
that all the red lights are weak...however, the running lights are bright!!
guess I will trace the brake and running light from the umbilical first for
current.
thanks
chas
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:47:20 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Painting the plastic wood
Daisy:
I had planned to paint at least one wall of my Bubble with a
Monet-type floral scene. Still working on finding a local Monet. I will
have "old wood" vinyl strips (it actually looks a lot better than it
sounds) half-way up the walls, topped with a mini chair rail. I also
bought a cast iron ships' stove for by stove top since I'm going for a
"nice fishing shack" look and bought a couple of Pendleton wool "moose
& bear" camp blankets for the bunks and I think I will go with the cork
floor.
I think paint is great. Jo Ann
On Thursday, September 11, 2003, at 09:54 AM, Daisy Welch wrote:
>
>
> I was looking at my trailer after I got all my construction stuff and
> mess cleaned up, and it looks good, but BORING.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:11:05 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Painting /adding style
Thanks for bringing up what's been on my mind...adding some style to the
interior.
Since we aren't restoring the unit to original but rather building all
new interior, we are trying a Japanese look....rice paper paneled shoji
sliding and closet doors...we just built them today from cherry. We
found a rice paper looking Formica for the counter and are making a
natural wood strip table top...several woods cut, joined, glued and
planed. We've done this for cutting boards and can't wait to see a
whole table done like it. We are using grassy mats for rugs and an
oriental screen style print for curtain material....and somehow I want
to do some kind of bamboo shade for 2 windows. I hate having anything
that matches but rather blends and contrasts with interest. We are
using dark cherry and clear birch for all walls and cabinets and doors
and earthy, nubby textured fabric.
I just wish I could color the outside somehow....we did sculpt a 20" sun
from aluminum to cover a dent....cheaper than 2 new panels and adds some
distinction....some would be appalled at a lack of taste tho! I like to
call it flair!!! I'm thinking about doing a bronze plastic rock
guard....have only seen black.
I love hearing about all kinds of styles that folks have done to their
A/S's and love to look at photos....even if it's not my preference I
like all kinds of different looks.
Some of my pix are on
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/dewdropplans.htm
If anyone is as interested in decor as I am. Now we are past the grunt
work I am really enjoying it....but I liked that work too.
Lexxy/aka/Lynn
- -
Daisy:
I had planned to paint at least one wall of my Bubble with a
Monet-type floral scene.
> I was looking at my trailer after I got all my construction stuff and
> mess cleaned up, and it looks good, but BORING.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:21:42 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Painting and Repairing Plastic
Yikes, what a project ! Wanna do Mine if I send them ?;]
I have no power down at the trailer, and no paint gun either.
the plastic in my '73 is intact, but stained. I really don't want to
take the whole bathroom appart to paint them....
Is there another way ?
Daisy
Lynn Evans wrote:
> I can actually voice some experience here since this is one of the few
> things I know about.
> ...actually that's about the only subject I feel like somewhat an expert
> on when we removed and refinished the bath plastic and fiberglass. I
> read everything I could about ABS on the net.
>
> I did a lot of repair on my sailboat and used some deck paint on it, so
> I trusted West Marine for a paint. I used a good sturdy one step paint
> and not an epoxy and I'm happy with it resisting chips ..cuz it would
> have after all the tugging and pulling we did reinstalling it. The old
> plastic and fiberglass tub were faded yellow and the steps I took were:
>
> I sanded the parts with rough paper according to the primer directions
> and washed them well with a special solvent they recommended....lightly,
> cuz too much weakened the plastic until it evaporated. I wiped it with
> water to remove solvent.
>
> I patched several places with fiberglass fixit kit...bondo stuff and I
> used epoxy on the plastic where there were some breaks. I cut pieces of
> an old ABS a/c cover as reinforcement in back of the splits, holes and
> other fixes and ground deep grooves with a Dremel tool to make them
> rough so the epoxy would have "tooth" to grab and hold. Sanded and
> cleaned all the fixes when they cured. This is busy work but not hard
> and sorta fun.
>
> I sprayed primer on all parts let them dry and sanded and resprayed
> primer[aspecial one for leveling and adhesion]....it's for a good
> adhesion and it levels the fixes well. These are 2 light coats.
>
> I set up a huge spray booth in my pool shelter covering it with plastic
> sheets and duct tape....hanging thin dry cleaner sheets in back of each
> item I coated so I could throw them away.
>
> I used a turn table so I could turn the parts too as I sprayed. I have
> a 5 hp compressor I use in my pottery so I'm familiar with spray paint.
> The thinner that washes out the sprayer is expensive and dangerous so
> wear good respirator mask...about $40. I also wore an old bathrobe and
> shower caps and used lots of vinyl gloves....latex gloves melt with the
> thinner. Washing out the sprayer was the hardest and most dangerous
> part.
>
> I sprayed on 2 coats of the $40 a quart ivory deck paint drying and
> sanding in between. All this took me a month due to a wet fall and I
> needed dry weather. I would bring each piece inside and let it dry on
> the dining table. In 2 weeks after the last coat the finish was cured
> and much harder than I thought at first. I will keep the paint on hand
> to touch up places and trim and rivet heads.
>
> I am going to put these directions and some pix on my website soon so it
> can help others. There are some pix of the "almost" finished bath on:
> http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/dew1.htm
>
> We still are working on the doors
>
> Lexxy/aka/Lynn
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:41:36 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Chas
Check the ground. If it's not very good the lights want be either.
Also when you remove/replace the bulbs you may want to put a dab of bulb
grease on each bulb.
Another thing may be the puller is bad. Put a Chevy back in front of it and it
should fix everything.
Bobby
'02 Suburban 4X4
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: BLVLMHAALPTC
ticked at the weak output of the "red" lights on the back of the Sovereign.
I have removed the covers, cleaned them (not needed), cleaned
the reflective surface (like new and not needed) and even changed the light
bulbs. I have even gone so far as to change the '90 Suburban for a 2002
Ford
E350 Diesel puller.!
That has not helped either.
Where am I losing voltage er, current?
thanks
chas
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:34:16 EDT
From: CliffHort@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re:Dometic Refrigerator
Hello,
We are the new owners of an '81 Excella II. It has the Dometic Fridge that is
a double door (freezer on top with fridge below).
It works fine on propane, but not on 110 or 12v.
I couldn't get any info from the Dometic website.
Is there a repair manual available? I have checked the breakers and they are
all OK.
This model does not appear to have any kind of "board" that might be bad. It
seems to be all hard wired.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
WBCCi # 26925
Thanks, Cliff
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:15:17 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: [VACList] Truck Tires?
Dave
I have driven the same truck since new in 1988 and have put many different
tires on it over the years.
The Daytona tires actually lasted longer than either Goodyear or BF Goodrich.
But about 4 years ago I broke down and bought a set of Michelin LTX M/S tires
at the base gas station during a tire sale. Theses tires have now been on the
truck twice as long as any other tire I ever tried. And they make my truck
ride better and quiter, it's been amazing I can hear the radio without having
the volume maxed out. When I bought them they cost me 124.00 per tire. I
thought it was high since I was paying about 20 dollars less before for other
brands. At Sears and other tire shops around town the Michelins are very high
dollar. If you have a friend on a military base check with him and see if you
can acquire some cheaper than what you have priced. They are worth the extra
money though.
Bobby
Wrom: WCONEUQZAAF
My Ford 1997 Ford F250 needs new tires. The truck is a 4x2 long bed,
standard cab. The size is P255/70 R16. I tow a 1977 31'
Sovereigm.
What size, ply and "features" should I look for? I really dont want to
spend $200 a tire, if I dont have to...
Any help is appreciated...
Dave
__
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:00:55 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Vintage Trailers for sale
The following ADs for vintage Airstream trailers were in the Columbus Ohio
Unit's September newsletter.
I am posting them because I thought the list's readers might be interested.
I have absolutely no connection with any of these, and receive no benefits
when/if they sell. Ads are quoted verbatim. Please do not contact me with
any questions, contact the person listed in the ad.
AD #!1:
"Vintage 1975 Airstream Trailer
Gene and Sharon Johnson purchased an 1987 Trailer in Florida last October.
They have all their necessities transferred into it and are now offering
their 1975 31' Trailer for sale. If you know anyone interested in a vintage
trailer have them call 614 889-0198 or e-mail slknep@xxxxxxxxxx.net They are also
offering for sale their 1996 Chevrolet Suburban, 454 Vortec engine. 132,000
miles."
AD #2:
"1965 Vintage Trailer for Sale
This 24' twin axle trailer comes with its original manual and lots of
possibilities. If you know anyone looking for a vintage trailer call Kenny
Hunter at 614 274-7475. Priced to sell at $3,500.00. Kenny says you need to
see this trailer in order to appreciate it's possibilities. He does say
that it will need a new set of tires and it should be ready to go. (Don't
tell Kenny but that might be a clue to dicker on the price a bit!)"
(There was a very small B&W photo of the trailer printed with this AD. The
little bit you can see looks OK...)
Enjoy!
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:54:31 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
chas,
Your coach has two separate 12V lighting systems. The exterior lights, marker,
brake, backup, turn signals get their voltage directly from the tow vehicle.
The Univolt is part of the interior 12V system. It along with the coach battery
provide power to the interior lights and appliances.
As with any DC lighting system there are two parts to them. You can have the best,
hottest battery feeding the lights but if the ground is corroded or loose then the
lights will not shine brightly. It takes surprisingly little corrosion to cause
problems. An old trick of the trade is to spray diluted vinegar into the light
sockets. The vinegar is the chemical opposite of corrosion and will neutralize it.
If all the lights are similarly dim it suggest the tow vehicle/trailer connection
is defective. It may be necessary to break open the socket and plug to clean up the
terminals.
Charlie
schuetzen wrote:
> On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 16:36:02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Probably the ground connection. Maybe the lamp sockets.
>
> shouldn't I be checking at the Univolt and then down line from there? or should
> I check each light's ground? I would assume that the general ground is poor in
> that all the red lights are weak...however, the running lights are bright!!
> guess I will trace the brake and running light from the umbilical first for
> current.
>
> thanks
> chas
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 21:03:52 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re:Dometic Refrigerator
Cliff,
If you could share the specific model # we might be able to get more specific.
But generally the possibilities are bad heaters or bad thermostats. My self I
would not worry about 12V as that is the most inefficient and least effective way
to cool.
First, insure there is 110V at the back of the refer. On a simple system one wire
would go direct to the heater and the second would go to the thermostat and then
to the heater. By disconnecting either line to the heater and measuring between
the heater wires with an Ohm meter you should read about 50 ohms. If the heater
is correct the likely problem is the thermostat. Make sure it operates
mechanically. Then bypass it. If the refer then cools on 110V you have found the
problem.
Charlie
CliffHort@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Hello,
> We are the new owners of an '81 Excella II. It has the Dometic Fridge that is
> a double door (freezer on top with fridge below).
> It works fine on propane, but not on 110 or 12v.
> I couldn't get any info from the Dometic website.
> Is there a repair manual available? I have checked the breakers and they are
> all OK.
> This model does not appear to have any kind of "board" that might be bad. It
> seems to be all hard wired.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> WBCCi # 26925
> Thanks, Cliff
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:10:29 -0500
From: schuetzen <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:54:31 -0600, you wrote:
>but if the ground is corroded or loose then the
>lights will not shine brightly. It takes surprisingly little corrosion to cause
>problems. An old trick of the trade is to spray diluted vinegar into the light
>sockets. The vinegar is the chemical opposite of corrosion and will neutralize it.
>If all the lights are similarly dim it suggest the tow vehicle/trailer connection
>is defective. It may be necessary to break open the socket and plug to clean up the
>terminals.
thanks Charlie, your comments are along teh line of my thoughts.
as I said before, the 'burb created very weak lights but, so did the NEW, set up
for towing Van. so, I think that I need to work my way back from the umbilical
connection to the van to the back bumper of the trailer.
thank you again sir
chas
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 20:19:51 -0700
From: Webmaster <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Dometic Refrigerator
In additions to Charlie's sound words,
http://www.bryantrv.com/reefer.html
http://www.bryantrv.com/docs.html
- --
Best of luck,
RJ
On 9/14/03 5:34 PM, "CliffHort@xxxxxxxxxx.com" <CliffHort@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> Hello,
> We are the new owners of an '81 Excella II. It has the Dometic Fridge that is
> a double door (freezer on top with fridge below).
> It works fine on propane, but not on 110 or 12v.
> I couldn't get any info from the Dometic website.
> Is there a repair manual available? I have checked the breakers and they are
> all OK.
> This model does not appear to have any kind of "board" that might be bad. It
> seems to be all hard wired.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> WBCCi # 26925
> Thanks, Cliff
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:51:57 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
After you clean up corrosion with acetic acid, then wash it away
completely with water, and apply silicone dielectric grease to keep
moisture away after the cleaning water dries.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:52:05 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Weak Brake lights
Like its been saidk the Univolt has no effect on the signal lamps of the
trailer. Only the interior illumination lamps. Power for all the signal
lamps comes from the tow vehicle.
When both brake lites are lightin poorly, either there's something wrong
thats common to them both or both have a problem. Need not be the same
problem either.
Brake and turn are connected together in the tow vehicle, only when
there's no turn signals in use. The turn signal switch disconnects the
lamp to flash from the brake circuit to the turn signal flasher circuit.
The trailer lamps get more complicated. In my '98 F150 there is a
separate relay and fuse for each of the trailer circuits on its own
separate fuse panel.
A common problem is the 7 pin Bargman connector. It gets corroded. Mine
was that way, and I simple went to Walmart and bought another for $8 and
transferred the wires over. Then I put some silicon dielectric grease on
the contact surfaces (and on the wire ends as I installed them in the
new plug) and only once since then some three years ago, have I
connected and not had all lights working. Then I wiggled the plug to
clean the contact surfaces and its continued to work.
Grounds are an achiles heel of the Airstream signal lamp wiring. There
isn't a ground wire carred through the trailer, just the farm and shell
is connected up front and the lights depend on the shell for their
ground. I found all my marker light grounds were bad because they
depended on pop rivets squeezing metal with plastic. Plastic by
definition flows to releive that pressure and they all did. The tail
lights may not be grounded much better. Id try a long piece of wire
thoroughly grounded to the trailer tongue or the tow vehicle frame and
see if adding a ground to any supposed grounded thing (starting with the
trailer tongue where you will have to break through paint) is improved
by the wire. That can include the shell of the lamp socket in the
brake/turn lamps. If that shows up a problem then you need to work on
getting the fixture grounded solidly without carving up too much of the
skin to make uglies and leaks.
Then if that doesn't work, every splice in the wiring in the walls,
starting at the Bargman plug, through the pigtail, the junction box, and
on to the brake/turn lamps is suspect. There's no way to say at my
distance which or how many are poor. Those exposed to moisture will be
the most suspect, but all are suspect. Sometimes just twisting a wire
nut will fix a connetion temporarily.
Before you get too wild, be sure to check that the lamps in the brake
light fixtures are the right ones. The come in a couple power ratings
and the low power one (or an amber one) would not light up red as well
as the higher power one with clear glass.
With the tow vehicle engine running, you want to see 13.8 to 14.0 volts
at the lamp socket with the lamp load. Lamp output goes down 10% for
each 5% voltage drop.
Testing for Jim Greene's problems go about the same way. One way to
separate trailer from tow vehicle problem is to try a different trailer
or tow vehicle. There are test plugs made to test the tow vehicle
circuits. I generally use a 12 volt 50 watt lamp (edison base) that I
have screwed into a test box. That test box has a switched edison base
lamp socket and a toggle switch. Then I brought out a pair of wires with
alligator clips on the ends. The lamp draws more current than a tail
light (but not so much as to harm the wiring) so it shows up poor
connections where a sensitive voltmeter testing without significant
current might not.
Another test I've appled is without tow vehicle to plug the trailer plug
into a spare receptacle, then use a remote starter button to connect the
battery terminal to the circuit I wish energised. That lets me test
trailer along, especially handy for things like the electric brakes that
I don't want to keep on for long periods and don't have a helper to push
on the truck brake pedal while I'm checking the circuits under the
trailer.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
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End of VAL Digest V1 #7
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