VAL Digest V1 #28

VAL Digest          Tuesday, October 7 2003          Volume 01 : Number 028




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #26 - Battery compartment vent tube
[VAL] Antenna Cable Question
RE: [VAL] '66 Caravel Furnace removal
RE: [VAL] What is tube for?
Re: [VAL] What is tube for?
Re: [VAL] Antenna Cable Question
RE: [VAL] baby moon
Re: [VAL] What is tube for?
RE: [VAL] What is tube for?
Re: [VAL] What is tube for?
Re: [VAL] baby moon
Re: [VAL] baby moon
RE: [VAL] baby moon
Re: [VAL] baby moon
Re: [VAL] baby moon
Re: [VAL] What is tube for?
Re: [VAL] baby moon
Re: [VAL] split ring wheels 
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #27
[VAL] Heater 22' Airstream
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #27
Re: [VAL] split ring wheels
Re: [VAL] Heater 22' Airstream
Re: [VAL] Antenna Cable Question
RE: [VAL] What is tube for?
RE: [VAL] Heater 22' Airstream
Re: [VAL] What is tube for?

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Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 06:31:15 EDT
From: CliffHort@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #26 - Battery compartment vent tube

Greetings,
My '71 23' Safari had a plastic battery cover that the vent tube came out of 
to go to the vent hole above the battery access cover. I've since sold that 
one so I can't get you a picture of it, but that is how it was supposed to have 
worked.
Cliff, WBCCI # 26925 and VAC member

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 08:43:23 EDT
From: fruitbat54@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Antenna Cable Question

My '77 Tradewind has an original Braud Skyliner TV antenna and a two Braud 
power booster amplifiers, both located on the streetside, one in the front and 
one in the rear.  I have the manuals for both the antenna and the amplifier.   
The mechanical operation of the antenna seems ok; it raises and lowers easily 
and rotates somewhat reluctantly.  

There is a 300 ohm cable connecting the antenna to the front amplifier and 
another 300 ohm cable that runs from the front amplifier to the rear.  There are 
two 75 ohm cables that are attached to the front amplifier (although the 
signals supplied to these cables are not amplified) that are intended for 
connection to an am/fm radio.  

Does anyone know where the 75 ohm cables go?  I thought that one would emerge 
in the compartment over the front window, but there's no sign of one there.  
Possibly these cables terminate somewhere behind the interior skin and you 
have to open a hole to access them? 

Above the roof, the 300 ohm cable has deteriorated badly.  I thought at first 
that I would replace the entire run, but it looks very difficult to fish the 
cable through the ceiling and wall.  I've replaced the front roof vent with a 
Fantastic fan and I can just barely access the cable from the inside of the 
ceiling space, where it penetrates the roof.  I was planning to tape a new cable 
to the old one and pull it through, but when I pull on the old one it doesn't 
seem to move at all.  Has anyone been able to replace this cable without 
removing the interior skin?  Would it make more sense to just replace the section 
of the cable above the roof?  Are there any special procedures for splicing 
300 ohm cable to minimize signal loss?  Any other suggestions?

My final questions relate to connecting the outlet of the amplifier to the 
TV.  The outlet consists of two simple holes, apparently intended to receive the 
stripped wires of a 300 ohm cable.  Since my TV has a 75 ohm antenna input, I 
plan to plug a 300 ohm/75 ohm matching transformer into the amplifier output 
and connect that to the TV with a 75 ohm cable.  Any problems with this?  Any 
better alternatives?

Thanks for your help,

Lincoln Soule
'77 Tradewind

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 07:06:31 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] '66 Caravel Furnace removal

That's the stuff.
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 12:14 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] '66 Caravel Furnace removal
>
>
> RJ,
>
> Your web page doesn't give a model number for the wheel well
> trim, did
> you use Hoskin & Muir #A604T?
> Rob Davis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 08:28:09 -0600
From: "Jim Cooper" <jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] What is tube for?

Thanks to all,

Several of you have replied to mention battery gasses inside the coach.
The compartment that the battery sits in is formed by the structure of
the single bed above the battery.  It's not close to sealed.  It appears
that A/S used the tube to vent the battery from a nipple on the battery
or a sealed battery box.  New batteries don't have nipples, there is no
battery box, and the tube is plugged with dirt.  Maybe this results in
hazard that I, and others, was not aware of.  I plan to look into this
further.

Moving the battery to the tongue is possible, but requires significant
routing of wires.  It puts more weight on the hitch, but takes weight
off the side of the frame -- interesting tradeoffs.

Thanks for all the replies.

Best Regards,
   Jim
 
   jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com
   
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> On Behalf Of Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
> Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 2:00 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] What is tube for?
> 
> The vent tube is to move the flammable gasses from battery charging
(and
> to a lesser effect discharging) outside the trailer. The bubbling near
> full charge can also transport some battery acid. The gasses come off
> the electrolyte in the most explosive ratio of two parts hydrogen to
one
> part oxygen. Some of us believe the battery should be outside the
> trailer because of those fumes.
> 
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 09:57:11 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] What is tube for?

I've had a vehicle with battery inside (VW Beetle), I kept some
batteries in the basement for radio operation, and I've looked over the
remains of an explosion or two. The acid part of the fumes in the VW ate
the floor and parts of the seat over 10 years. The battery in the
basement ate stuff near it. The parties injured in the explosions didn't
do anything to cause the explosions other than shake the battery to make
the electrolyte level more visible. 

Knowing that heavy discharges or fully charging produces hydrogen and
oxygen in the stoicametric mixture for the best explosion, I prefer to
keep the batteries outside. The bubbling of that gas mixture is what
carries acid vapor through the vents. Some supposed sealed batteries
aren't sealed, they just are made to appear that way. Some battery tops
aren't sealed to the posts allowing acid fumes to eat the connectors.
And sloshing of the electrolyte surely adds to the acid escape. I've had
batteries that leaked out the sides, supposedly high quality deep cycle.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 09:57:14 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Antenna Cable Question

Splicing 300 ohm twinlead is a pain. Its optimum if you can keep the
spacing to diameter ratio and the amount of insulation (and the same
dielectric constant) the same. That's very difficult. Otherwise keep the
splice as short as possible (say 1/4" long). Perfection in the splice
would be preferable, but this isn't wiring carrying signals for radio
astronomy where any loss can't be tolerated.

Its proper to connect 75 ohm to 300 ohm outlets with a transformer. And
there was a plug made for twinlead to fit the holes in the receptacle.
One brand was made by Moseley Electronics of St. Louis. There's a slight
chance a good RV catalog or Radio Shack might have some suitable plugs
to fit.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 09:13:15 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] baby moon

If you've replaced the split ring wheel assys, Dexter Axle dealers have
a real nice set:
http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Lit_120_6_02.pdf

If you have still the original split rim wheels, there isn't a
replacement moon available.

Best of luck,
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: chuckschmitz@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com [mailto:chuckschmitz@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 6:58 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] baby moon
>
>
> Anyone know a source for getting baby moon hubcaps for my 59 traveler.
>
> Chuck Schmitz
> Kansas City

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 13:01:27 -0400
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] What is tube for?

This discussion on battery venting led me to look at the battery compartment
on my '73 Ambassador.
No the battery is not vented, but the compartment seems to be sealed somewhat
since there is a plastic enclosure where the battery sits. To allow for
venting I drilled a hole in the bottom and put a 1/2 tube in it to hopefully
give the battery gas a place to escape/vent.
Others that have a battery compartment may also be able to do this easy
modification.

Bobby
'73 Ambassador

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 13:28:17 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <bpatt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] What is tube for?

For a pre made sealed battery case with vent tube try www.summitracing.com 
. Search for part number 
<http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D890103>SUM-890103

Bob Patterson


>Moving the battery to the tongue is possible, but requires significant
>routing of wires.  It puts more weight on the hitch, but takes weight
>off the side of the frame -- interesting tradeoffs.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 11:27:52 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] What is tube for?

Hydrogen, being lighter than air, rises, not falls so a vent out the
bottom won't remove the fuel in the explosive mixture..

In air, hydrogen burns from about 4% hydrogen through at least 80%
hydrogen, and at some ratios, it burns explosively, maybe most ratios,
I've not yet confirmed my suspicions that it burns slowly when the
mixture is way from optimum.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 10:32:36 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] baby moon

Is there a way to tell what kind of wheels you have - how do i 
recognize a "split rim"? I have a new axle (Dexter) on my trailer but I 
think the wheels were not changed out at that time. One of the PO's may 
have however since when I bought the trailer, it had Toyota truck tires 
on it - which I changed to trailer tires.
Jo Ann
On Monday, October 6, 2003, at 09:13 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> If you've replaced the split ring wheel assys, Dexter Axle dealers have
> a real nice set:
> http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Lit_120_6_02.pdf
>
> If you have still the original split rim wheels, there isn't a
> replacement moon available.
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: chuckschmitz@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com [mailto:chuckschmitz@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com]
>> Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 6:58 PM
>> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Subject: [VAL] baby moon
>>
>>
>> Anyone know a source for getting baby moon hubcaps for my 59 traveler.
>>
>> Chuck Schmitz
>> Kansas City
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 11:48:00 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] baby moon

If the tire shop changed the tires without complaint, it doesn't have
split rims. Most shops refuse to work on them or charge a lot extra.
Certain split rims have had a history of coming apart while being
inflated, especially if they weren't put together correctly and flying
pieces have been known to remove appendages from nearby live bodies.
Some particular split rims have developed a history of coming apart
while going down the road. They've been recalled.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 10:58:55 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] baby moon

If you have new tires, you most likely have newer wheels, as only truck
and farm implement dealers will touch a split rim wheel nowadays. Here
is a split-rim:
http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/brakes/brakes,b4tire.jpg

You can barely see the ring near the outside of the wheel diameter.

Another way to tell is the hub caps had spring clips that mounted inside
the hub opening - newer hub caps catch over 3 tangs on the wheel hub
opening.

Best of luck,
RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu [mailto:jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu]
> Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 10:33 AM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] baby moon
>
>
> Is there a way to tell what kind of wheels you have - how do i
> recognize a "split rim"? I have a new axle (Dexter) on my
> trailer but I
> think the wheels were not changed out at that time. One of
> the PO's may
> have however since when I bought the trailer, it had Toyota
> truck tires
> on it - which I changed to trailer tires.
> Jo Ann
> On Monday, October 6, 2003, at 09:13 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>
> > If you've replaced the split ring wheel assys, Dexter Axle
> dealers have
> > a real nice set:
> > http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Lit_120_6_02.pdf
> >
> > If you have still the original split rim wheels, there isn't a
> > replacement moon available.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 13:02:43 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] baby moon

And not all truck tire dealers will do split rims. Besides split rims
won't work with tubeless tires, they must have a tube.

I still own several for my old 1 ton dually. Tire service will get
harder and harder to get.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 12:40:55 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] baby moon

I looked at the picture - does the fact that the valve stem seems to 
exit via a "split: in the wheel and not a hole in the wheel help ID? 
Also, "you can barely see the ring" - what ring - I don't see a ring 
although I may be looking at one. Sorry I'm a real beginner on wheels. 
thanks anyway.
Jo Ann
On Monday, October 6, 2003, at 10:58 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> If you have new tires, you most likely have newer wheels, as only truck
> and farm implement dealers will touch a split rim wheel nowadays. Here
> is a split-rim:
> http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/brakes/brakes,b4tire.jpg
>
> You can barely see the ring near the outside of the wheel diameter.
>
> Another way to tell is the hub caps had spring clips that mounted 
> inside
> the hub opening - newer hub caps catch over 3 tangs on the wheel hub
> opening.
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu [mailto:jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu]
>> Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 10:33 AM
>> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] baby moon
>>
>>
>> Is there a way to tell what kind of wheels you have - how do i
>> recognize a "split rim"? I have a new axle (Dexter) on my
>> trailer but I
>> think the wheels were not changed out at that time. One of
>> the PO's may
>> have however since when I bought the trailer, it had Toyota
>> truck tires
>> on it - which I changed to trailer tires.
>> Jo Ann
>> On Monday, October 6, 2003, at 09:13 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
>>
>>> If you've replaced the split ring wheel assys, Dexter Axle
>> dealers have
>>> a real nice set:
>>> http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Lit_120_6_02.pdf
>>>
>>> If you have still the original split rim wheels, there isn't a
>>> replacement moon available.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 15:50:22 EDT
From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] What is tube for?

The extra weight on the tounge should make the trailer track better. I 
installed a 240lb generatot + a6gal gas tank on the toung of my Tradewind It never 
trailed as good it tracked perfectly on a 7000 trip without any sway bars.
Jim Smith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 13:56:29 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] baby moon

Show us a picture of your rim.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 14:54:25 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] split ring wheels 

Joann:

   The part of the wheel that begins at the inside of the
tire and extends inward until the next concentric circle is
the "split ring" or "split rim".   The split appears as a
wavy squiggly the bottom of this ring; that is where the
ring is split so it can be expanded outward slightly and
removed by lifting it off the wheel.   Split ring wheels
require tubes be used inside tires to hold air in tire
because otherwise the air would leak out of the split in the
ring and from around the inside of the ring where it meets
the wheel.  Those joints are not air tight. 
 
  Good eye on the valve.  As you noticed, the valve hole can
also sometimes identify a split ring wheel.  Sometimes the
hole for the valve to come through is oblong.  That hole
doesn't have to be air tight because the air is inside the
tube and cannot leak through the oblong hole in the wheel.  
One piece wheels usually have round valve stems (typically
rubber nowadays) that fit through a hole and become air
tight upon inflating the tire.      

Joann Wheatley wrote:
> 
> I looked at the picture - does the fact that the valve stem seems to
> exit via a "split: in the wheel and not a hole in the wheel help ID?
> Also, "you can barely see the ring" - what ring - I don't see a ring
> although I may be looking at one. Sorry I'm a real beginner on wheels.
> thanks anyway.
> Jo Ann
> On Monday, October 6, 2003, at 10:58 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> 
> > If you have new tires, you most likely have newer wheels, as only truck
> > and farm implement dealers will touch a split rim wheel nowadays. Here
> > is a split-rim:
> > http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/brakes/brakes,b4tire.jpg
> >
> > You can barely see the ring near the outside of the wheel diameter.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 17:09:33 -0400
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #27

Hi, 
	I've been off the list for some time and back on it with a question.
I've been working on my 57 Overlander for about three years and have
just about finished which includes polishing :>( My question: When
checking the wiring of the TT, I found I have three white ones. One is
the brakes, one the ground I think and the last one is a mystery. Anyone
with a 50's TT have the same? Also, when I connected to the tow vehicle
the light on the break controler came on. Any help there?
	Would like to know if anyone this list is going to the Airstream Rallly
at the Top of GA park the 16th -19th? Can contact me off the list. I
hope to be able to take the "Maiden Voyage" at that time. Thanks.
Jerry Jarrell
WBCCI 4899
57 Overlander

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 17:36:21 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Heater 22' Airstream

on 9/17/03 1:00 AM, Lynn Evans wrote:

> I would appreciate any suggestions as to what kind of modest heating
> unit we could get just to use on the occasional venture in cooler
> weather.  Someone told me that I shouldn't expect much from the heat
> strip...just a little help until the real furnace kicks in.  This is
> only for a 22' unit so I don't need anything huge.  When we used to stay
> on our sailboat in winter we just used a small electric heater and
> dressed in long underwear real fast in the AM and used a down comforter
> but it never got below 40: inside. We expect to live in this A/S for
> several months and some might get coolish even in spring in Maine [as
> far as we ever expect to go north]!!!

Hi Lynn, 

This reply is to an earlier posting I'm just reading for the first time.
We've been out of the loop for almost a month (rally and caravan) and email
has piled up.  It will take me another month to catch up. That means my
replies may be out of synch with current discussions.  I hope everyone will
bear with me.

We've had a '67 22' Safari for years and years. It is now completely
restored inside and out (including a mirror shine). Today, we're in northern
Michigan on the Lighthouse Caravan. For two weeks, the overnight
temperatures have been ranging from 32 to 39 degrees and raining. During the
day, the high temperatures have been ranging in the upper 40s and raining.
Nearly every day, Lake Michigan has had white caps and crashing waves.

Are these temperatures somewhat akin to what you had in mind when you asked
for suggestions? If your answer is "Yes," then read on. If "no," then skip
the remainder of my comments.

First a short perspective paragraph on our experience with heaters, down
sleeping bags and specialized thermal clothing.

My wife and I have been camping enthusiasts since the early 1960s. We tented
for 10 years (before having children); we used a tent trailer for 10 years
(after having children) and most recently (last 20 years), we have used a
travel trailer interspersed with a back packing tent and mountain climbing
gear (while I climbed the 46 high peaks in NYS - half of them during the
winter in deep snow with temperatures in the teens and lower).

Now to the nitty gritty. In our 22' Safari we have a Holmes electric cube
heater. It has a 750 watt and 1500 watt setting. For the last 13 of 14 days,
our campground had electricity and we used the 750 watt setting exclusively.
We don't use the 1500 watt setting because the cube's metal shell gets too
warm (not hot) for our preference.  We DO run the electric cube heater while
sleeping. 

In our 22' Safari we have a second heater. It's an Olympian 6100 Catalytic
Heater with three settings (low, medium & high). Every day for the last 14
days, we have used it each morning and evening on the low setting - except
for the one day and night with no hookups. During that 24 hour period, the
medium setting was used in the evening before we went to bed, the high
setting was used for the first half hour in the morning and the medium
setting was used for most of the day.  We did NOT run the catalytic heater
while sleeping.  That night, we supplemented our sleeping bags with a fleece
blanket, a thermal watch cap and thermal socks (www.campmor.com).

Like most Airstreamers, we try to be prepared for cold weather during any
month of the year. As Snowbirds, we often winter in warm areas of the
country with our 32' Airstream. Sometimes those locations can turn cold
unexpectedly. One January in Brownsville, Texas, we experienced an entire
week where the temperature stayed below freezing day and night (25-27
degrees) with blustery wind. That year, we used the high setting on our
Catalytic Heater and pointed two electric heaters into the bowels of our
trailer where the water tank, waste tanks, water pipes and drain pipes are
located.  

For us, the name of the game is solid options for varying conditions.  We
choose not to limit our travels nor restrict ourselves by skimping on the
equipment needed to keep us comfortable. What works for us may or may not be
needed by those with different needs, wants and desires. Each has to decide
for themselves. 

Your comment about having the furnace out prompts my next remark. Although
you didn't ask, I know of some Vintage Airstream owners who installed a
house window a/c on the floor where the furnace used to be located. For
ventilation, they created the same type hole used under the refrigerator
during vintage years.  This can be an elegantly simple solution to avoid
adding weight above the roof, plus the cost can be 1/4th or 1/5th of a roof
air conditioner. There are descriptions of how this has been done in our
Vintage Airstream archives.

For those interested in a Lighthouse Caravan, I'll post the URL when it's
completed and ready for viewing (November-ish).

We're having a grand time. Our caravan schedule is often too exciting for me
to even open my laptop at night. We just want to fall into bed and be ready
early the next morning the day's adventure.

Terry
mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 17:34:18 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #27

Jerry, on the brake controllers that I am familiar with there is a light
that lights up to indicate that you have a good connection.

Scott
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Jarrell" <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 5:09 PM
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #27


 Also, when I connected to the tow vehicle
> the light on the break controler came on. Any help there?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 15:12:45 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] split ring wheels

Thanks to Fred and all for the wheel info. Undoubtedly I have regular, 
up-to-date wheels because the tire is tubeless - I went and looked and 
also, the wheel looks just like the truck wheel and tire I bought when 
I bought a spare. This is good news cuz I can get those cool looking 
moon things.
Jo Ann
On Monday, October 6, 2003, at 01:54 PM, Fred Coldwell wrote:

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 15:24:06 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Heater 22' Airstream

Terry:
    I recently bought a propane heater that is specifically designed for 
tent use, RV, boat, etc. It takes a 1 lb propane canister but can also 
be hooked up to the large tanks. Easy to light, light weight. 
Instructions are emphatic about having a minimum of 8 sq.in. of fresh 
air available, i.e., a 8"window opened an inch wide would suffice, etc. 
It cost $99 at a marine supply place but I've seen similar models in 
Cabela's catalog. Haven't "lived with it" yet however so I can't give 
you first-hand advice.
Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:03:43 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Antenna Cable Question

Lincoln, I can't help with much, except that today I took out the whole 
over the front window cabinet, and many wiring mysteries were visible 
and perhaps solveable.

Another factoid, there is a separate antenna for the radio on mine. At 
the international, I got boxes that have standard coaxial connections. 
one for the living area with the splitter to the rear, and another with 
the splitter and an amplifier.

Also, although I think this is after added, two coax thru skin 
connectors on the outside, right behind the plug.

I'll pass on the ohms part....

Daisy

fruitbat54@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> My '77 Tradewind has an original Braud Skyliner TV antenna and a two Braud 
> power booster amplifiers, both located on the streetside, one in the front and 
> one in the rear.  I have the manuals for both the antenna and the amplifier.   
> The mechanical operation of the antenna seems ok; it raises and lowers easily 
> and rotates somewhat reluctantly.  
> 
> There is a 300 ohm cable connecting the antenna to the front amplifier and 
> another 300 ohm cable that runs from the front amplifier to the rear.  There are 
> two 75 ohm cables that are attached to the front amplifier (although the 
> signals supplied to these cables are not amplified) that are intended for 
> connection to an am/fm radio.  
> 
> Does anyone know where the 75 ohm cables go?  I thought that one would emerge 
> in the compartment over the front window, but there's no sign of one there.  
> Possibly these cables terminate somewhere behind the interior skin and you 
> have to open a hole to access them? 
> 
> Above the roof, the 300 ohm cable has deteriorated badly.  I thought at first 
> that I would replace the entire run, but it looks very difficult to fish the 
> cable through the ceiling and wall.  I've replaced the front roof vent with a 
> Fantastic fan and I can just barely access the cable from the inside of the 
> ceiling space, where it penetrates the roof.  I was planning to tape a new cable 
> to the old one and pull it through, but when I pull on the old one it doesn't 
> seem to move at all.  Has anyone been able to replace this cable without 
> removing the interior skin?  Would it make more sense to just replace the section 
> of the cable above the roof?  Are there any special procedures for splicing 
> 300 ohm cable to minimize signal loss?  Any other suggestions?
> 
> My final questions relate to connecting the outlet of the amplifier to the 
> TV.  The outlet consists of two simple holes, apparently intended to receive the 
> stripped wires of a 300 ohm cable.  Since my TV has a 75 ohm antenna input, I 
> plan to plug a 300 ohm/75 ohm matching transformer into the amplifier output 
> and connect that to the TV with a 75 ohm cable.  Any problems with this?  Any 
> better alternatives?
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Lincoln Soule
> '77 Tradewind
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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> 
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 20:10:22 -0400
From: "Dave Harris" <gvanman@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] What is tube for?

> Subject: Re: [VAL] What is tube for?
> Gerald J. wrote:
> Hydrogen, being lighter than air, rises, not falls so a vent out the
> bottom won't remove the fuel in the explosive mixture..
  This is what makes it so dangerous - it is able to sneak through any
  breaks in the seal at the top of the battery compartment.
  This is also what makes it less dangerous as it dissipates into the
  surrounding air very rapidly.
  To try to clarify these 2 contradictory statements:
  If the hydrogen/oxygen mixture is able to leak from the battery
  compartment into an enclosed space - e.g. inside the passenger compartment
  of a car - then it has the potential for an 'ignition' which, if it
occurs,
  will be quite dramatic because of the enclosed space. This is a bit hypo-
  thetical as the battery would have to be grossly overcharged for quite a
  long time to produce the necessary volume of gas. You would then need an
  ignition source - smoking, turning on the ignition, etc.

> In air, hydrogen burns from about 4% hydrogen through at least 80%
> hydrogen, and at some ratios, it burns explosively, maybe most ratios,
> I've not yet confirmed my suspicions that it burns slowly when the
> mixture is way from optimum.
  The 4% hydrogen mixture is the theoretical 'danger' point and if the
  mixture is ignited, at whatever level, it is always 'explosive' - there
  is no 'slow-burn' option!
Cheers,
      Dave Harris (former 'battery-explosion' investigator)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 23:17:06 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Heater 22' Airstream

This is just what I needed to know to get some perspective on the
decision...thanks for your usual great input...

When we stayed on our sailboat in winter we slept under a down comforter
in hats and gloves...and the cold morning brings good motivation to
dress real fast or under the warm covers!!! And that was just in
Beaufort SC...

Lexxy/aka/Lynn 
[Alexis Lynn] in Augusta Ga.
 '67 Safari ...the never ending story!
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/dewdrop.htm
 


>Hi Lynn, 
>
>This reply is to an earlier posting I'm just reading for the 
>first time. We've been out of the loop for almost a month 
>(rally and caravan) and email has piled up.  It will take me 
>another month to catch up. That means my replies may be out of 
>synch with current discussions.  I hope everyone will bear with me.
>
>We've had a '67 22' Safari for years and years. It is now 
>completely restored inside and out (including a mirror shine). 
>Today, we're in northern Michigan on the Lighthouse Caravan. 
>For two weeks, the overnight temperatures have been ranging 
>from 32 to 39 degrees and raining. During the day, the high 
>temperatures have been ranging in the upper 40s and raining. 
>Nearly every day, Lake Michigan has had white caps and crashing waves.
>Terry
>mailto:tylerbears@xxxxxxxxxx.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 21:20:08 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] What is tube for?

I had a fire case where I blamed it on the hydrogen from a battery set.
It was in a room (basement) full of golf carts that was poorly
ventilated. One cart battery set was fairly sulfated and would only run
9 holes, but the help wasn't smart enough to give it only half a charge
so for at least half the regular charging time it was only dissociating
electrolyte into hydrogen and oxygen. It got enough hydrogen to burn,
but not quite with a bang. The chargers were constant current types that
would really push out the gas and there were open contacts on each
charger's timer that was a fine ignition source. There was sufficient
energy applied to that one bad battery pack to have produced a
combustible mixture of hydrogen in the room. Likely there were others
gassing from full charge at the same time that contributed.

Hydrogen having the smallest molecule does tend to pass through
materials and gaps that would stop most other gasses, including some
metal crystal lattices. Causes hydrogen imbrittlement in some metals and
causes more cracks and weak structures. These little things make it
harder to envision a hydrogen fueled vehicle with safety.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #28
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