VAL Digest V1 #23

VAL Digest          Thursday, October 2 2003          Volume 01 : Number 023




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [VAL] solar
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #21
Re: [VAL] Towing vehicle request
[VAL] Photo Op
Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer
[VAL] Vintage Name Plate Color?
[VAL] Locking Trailer
Re: [VAL] Vintage Name Plate Color?
RE: [VAL] Locking Trailer
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
RE: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
RE: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
[VAL] VintageAirstream.com
RE: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Towing vehicle request/optional equipment
Re: [VAL] Towing vehicle request/optional equipment
RE: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
[VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring
Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring
Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring
Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring
Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring
Re: [VAL] solar
Re: [VAL] Vintage Name Plate Color?
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring
Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
[VAL] window glass
Re: [VAL] window glass
Re: [VAL] window glass
Re: [VAL] window glass
[VAL] Airstream

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 01:31:52 -0700
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <rik@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar

Joann, Did you get an RV type fridge that works on either gas or 
12-volt, or a 12-volt-only freon-type fridge? What brand is it? I had a 
12-volt fridge in a little LeSharo motorhome, and it was the berries. 
Cooled down real quick (ice in 90 minutes) and did not use NEARLY the 
juice that the resistance heater in a gas/electric RV fridge uses. Also 
(and this was the reason they used it), it required NO venting. That 
means NO holes in your rig for the fridge. There is something to be said 
for that, particularly with a trailer that didn't originally come with a 
gas fridge.

Chris, where did you get those panels? The place you indicated didn't 
know what I was talking about.

Best regards,

Rik


Joann Wheatley wrote:

> Thanks Dean but it's about 10 days too late. I ordered it by phone and 
> MC and it is in transit as we speak. So, here will be some first hand 
> mistake/knowledge in the making. I'm sure I've made some other weird 
> choices: a 2-burner cast iron stove top (fishing shack), an on-demand 
> water heater...Oh well, I also bought a Citroen in 1970 and have had 3 
> British sports cars, I married a computer geek (that was 36 yrs ago 
> and wildly successful), and other stuff like that. I don't know why I 
> do it.
> Jo Ann
> On Sunday, September 28, 2003, at 01:47 PM, dean wrote:
>
>> Please ReThink your 12 Volt refrig.  They just don't work and they 
>> will take your Batteries down
>> fast.
>> Stay with the Propane gas models   Don't take my word,  check with 
>> others on this too.
>> Dean
>>
>> On Sunday, September 28, 2003, at 11:50  AM, Joann Wheatley wrote:
>>
>>> Chris - could you describe how you installed the flexible panels in 
>>> a little more detail or maybe a picture? Do they just keep your 
>>> battery(s) charged and then you run stuff off the battery? I have a 
>>> 12v refrig on order and am still a little concerned that the 
>>> generator alone is not going to keep my Bubble's 12v battery (just 
>>> one) charged when not on shore power although I won't have a 
>>> microwave, hair dryer etc just lights and water pump on electric; no 
>>> AC either.
>>> jw

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 08:18:13 -0500
From: "Sherry" <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #21

Dave wrote:

> My only problem with the "Sewer Solution" macerator is when 
> you have been 
> dry camping, most dump stations don't have water sources with hose 
> connectors on the end

I have a little gizmo that I bought at an RV store that slips over the end
of the hose to add a connector. It leaks a little, but works well enough to
use with the Sewer Solution. And I've used mine in Mexico in places with a
hand pump, and I managed to get enough water pressure for it still to work. 

Sherry - '63 Bambi

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 09:19:09 EDT
From: JAuman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Towing vehicle request

I pull with a 2000 Ford Excursion Limited and love it. I have the V10 engine. 
4.3 gear ratio. I get 10 miles per gallon towing a 34 Airstream. I get 16 MPG 
on highway. I tow in overdrive most of the time except hilly areas. No 
problems at all. Love it. jauman2346@xxxxxxxxxx.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 08:34:42 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Photo Op

I received the following message.  Anyone interested might contact these folks
directly.

- -Tom

    Dear Tom,

    I am a designer of lighting fixtures located in Vista CA (North San Diego
    County). We are launching new line of products and would like to
photograph
    one of our fixtures next to an Airstream Trailer (our fixtures are
    minimalist designs). Do you know anyone in our area that would be
interested
    in working with us?

    Thanks,

    George

    george bosson



    www.alights.com

    2835 la mirada dr. vista ca 92083 tel. 760.727.6627 ext. 152 fax.
    760-727-7695

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 09:46:46 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <phil.renner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Locking Trailer

Don't forget the big old bowl of "dog" water, a dog bone, and maybe a few
spent shotgun shells laying around.

Phil Renner
63 Overlander

> Go to a Salvation Army store and buy the biggest pair of hiking boots you
> can find and place them outside on the ground. Dirty them up a little,
toss
> in some worn white socks. You'll be amazed at what this will do.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 10:11:49 -0400
From: "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Vintage Name Plate Color?

Well, my 1955 Bubble has the deco plate, and it has a blue background.
There's no evidence that it was ever repainted or that it was replaced.  The
blue color is somewhat pale, I'm not sure of the original color.

Deborah

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 10:17:28 -0400
From: "Deborah Bede" <stillwaterstudio@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Locking Trailer

I would be concerned about locking securely in remote areas, even in
campgrounds.  While camping in the Green Mountains (VT) I left my locked car
filled with camping gear at a trailhead during a day hike.  I returned to
find the car cleaned out, even my dirty clothes were gone!  This was a
popular trail off a fairly busy road, with a number of other cars in the lot
and any number of people appearing unexpectedly from the trail.  Campgrounds
are probably safer, but you never know.

Deborah

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 09:02:29 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Name Plate Color?

Deborah:

    Interesting!  Was your Bubble manufactured in California
or Ohio? If Calif., the serial number should be a 3 digits
and all numbers.  If Ohio, it well begin with an "O" [Oh,
not zero].  What color is underenath the blue?  Thanks,

Fred    

Deborah Bede wrote:
> 
> Well, my 1955 Bubble has the deco plate, and it has a blue background.
> There's no evidence that it was ever repainted or that it was replaced.  The
> blue color is somewhat pale, I'm not sure of the original color.
> 
> Deborah
> 
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> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 12:12:44 -0400
From: "Lynn Evans" <Earth2lynn@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Locking Trailer

And leaving a radio on can help too!! But the campground advice was
best.  Are there good alarms anyone would recommend?  Maybe attached to
the wheels or hitch somehow?  Maybe just an alarm co sign!!!

Lexxy/aka/Lynn 
[Alexis Lynn] in Augusta Ga.
 '67 Safari ...the never ending story!
http://flummoxed.org/lexxey/dewdrop.htm
 


- -

Go to a Salvation Army store and buy the biggest pair of hiking boots
you can find and place them outside on the ground. Dirty them up a
little, toss in some worn white socks. You'll be amazed at what this
will do.

Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 12:20:52 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

> Brad:
>
>    The deco style (with round letters) name plates from
> about 1948 to about 1958 or maybe slightly later did not
> have a blue background.  The background was an aluminum or
> grayish color with the brighter polished letters spelling
> AIRSTREAM.  My 1957 Flying Cloud (since sold) and 1951
> Clipper both have this type of deco nameplate.  I'm not
> aware of anyone who is reproducing these grayish background
> deco style AIRSTREAM nameplates.

Fred, Brad and everyone else,
I just went out and checked two of my trailers of that vintage. My 57
Sovereign of the Road (13 panel) and my 59 Ambassador International both
have the light blue background "deco" style nameplates. Neither seem to have
been replaced as they are held on with solid rivets. However, I just checked
one of my photos of a trailer I am picking up this weekend which Fred
determined to be a 1950 Cruiser (with a pipe frame believe it or not). The
nameplate on it appears to have a gray background along with the "deco"
style letters. Fred, If you still have the photos I sent you and RJ several
months ago, have a look at #P1010157. There is a close up of the center
taillight with  the nameplate just below. Again it appears to be original as
there are solid rivets. I will be able to give you a better idea of the
original color after I pick it up. Airstreamdreams has reproduced the blue
background version and if there truly is a gray background version existing
I'm sure that would be easy to recreate as well. If anyone is interested in
this photo, email me off list and I would be glad to send it.
Colin Hyde
4 Airstreams and counting......may be in a race with Wayne & Linda?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 09:24:25 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner

> -----Original Message-----
> From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 5:16 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] 1956/7 Caravanner
>
> RJ,
> Thanks once again for your input.  We removed the shell from
> the frame/floor this past weekend.  Heavy is an
> understatement.  I was surprised to find that the floor of
> this 1956/7 unit has 5/8" plywood.  I have had to retract my
> order for 3/4" plywood and change it to 5/8"  What year did
> Airstream go to 3/4"?

I don't think older Airstream ever used 3/4" plywood.  Maybe somewhere I
mentioned 3/4" spacers?  That was to make it easier to slide the plywood
under the C Channels.

>
> You mentioned installing a holding tank/s between the frames
> (over the axle) are you speaking about a fresh water holding
> tank?  I was planning on installing Black water above the
> floor (like my 76 tradewind), a gray water behind the axle
> and a freshwater???? somewhere???? Do you recommend
> installing a fresh water over the axle?  If yes do you
> recommend any particular type?

Based upon floorplan and preferences, you can place them most anywhere.
The usual locations are freshwater above the floor in the front under
the sofa or dinette.
Waste tanks can go above the floor with the toilet on top, or below the
floor (but they stick out below the belly skin). Best install I've seen
is a hybrid: the toilet sitting on top of a 10" tank supported by straps
under the frames, brackets on the frames themselves, and by a flange
where the tank came up through the subfloor.  It was covered with a
welded stainless shower plan, but you could use molded fiberglass too.
As for graywater, they have to go below the level of the shower floor
drain.  Secondly, you can't drain the shower direct into the tank (one
guy I know did - smelly!) You need a trap before it goes into the tank.
If the shower sat flat on the floor, that would mean that the tank would
be dragging on the ground.  Obvious solution is to have the shower floor
raised too, with the trap entering the top side of a tank that is
supported just as I mentioned above for the waste tank hybrid.  In the
'56 Flying Cloud, the design I came up with is the shower floor is an
extension of the stainless steel raised floor for the toilet.  While the
waste tank will be a rectangle and occupy one bay on the streetside
under the bathroom, the gray water will be a long shallow tank in the
bay forward of it right aft of the axle, stretching across the trailer
to the other side between the floor and frame bottom to spread the
weight to the other side. The tank will have a square riser section
under the shower bottom and above the long section, kinda like a:
                                                   _____
                               ___________________|     |
                               |________________________|

Sources:
http://www.incaplastics.com/  (made the original airstream tanks)
http://www.all-rite.com/ (custom tanks)

The above are local to me, but you may find other custom tank makers in
your area. You really need to watch the total weight of these things and
avoid the tempatation to put in large capacity tanks.  A 10 gal waste,
25-30 gal fresh and 15 gal gray is probably the limit.  Consider that
the originals were 12 gal fresh, 5 gal waste and no gray tanks, that is
a big improvement, but still requires conservation practices.  I think a
lot a modern RV'es are spoiled with their 40 gal fresh and 30/30 dump
tanks...

>
> Q: What type / thickness of aluminum should I use to replace
> the belly pan?
>

.024 2024-T3 is good choice.

> Thank you.
> Kevin & Valerie Chop
>

Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 10:43:25 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <Agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

Colin:

  Where were your '57 Sovereign and '59 Ambassador trailers
manufactured?  I am beginning to wonder whether one factory
colored the deco style name plates earlier than the other
factory?  My 1957 FC with the gray deco name plate was a
California trailer.   Another detail to learn more about! 

Fred      

chyde wrote:
> 
> > Brad:
> >
> >    The deco style (with round letters) name plates from
> > about 1948 to about 1958 or maybe slightly later did not
> > have a blue background.  The background was an aluminum or
> > grayish color with the brighter polished letters spelling
> > AIRSTREAM.  My 1957 Flying Cloud (since sold) and 1951
> > Clipper both have this type of deco nameplate.  I'm not
> > aware of anyone who is reproducing these grayish background
> > deco style AIRSTREAM nameplates.
> 
> Fred, Brad and everyone else,
> I just went out and checked two of my trailers of that vintage. My 57
> Sovereign of the Road (13 panel) and my 59 Ambassador International both
> have the light blue background "deco" style nameplates. Neither seem to have
> been replaced as they are held on with solid rivets. However, I just checked
> one of my photos of a trailer I am picking up this weekend which Fred
> determined to be a 1950 Cruiser (with a pipe frame believe it or not). The
> nameplate on it appears to have a gray background along with the "deco"
> style letters. Fred, If you still have the photos I sent you and RJ several
> months ago, have a look at #P1010157. There is a close up of the center
> taillight with  the nameplate just below. Again it appears to be original as
> there are solid rivets. I will be able to give you a better idea of the
> original color after I pick it up. Airstreamdreams has reproduced the blue
> background version and if there truly is a gray background version existing
> I'm sure that would be easy to recreate as well. If anyone is interested in
> this photo, email me off list and I would be glad to send it.
> Colin Hyde
> 4 Airstreams and counting......may be in a race with Wayne & Linda?
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 13:09:23 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

> Colin:
>
>   Where were your '57 Sovereign and '59 Ambassador trailers
> manufactured?  I am beginning to wonder whether one factory
> colored the deco style name plates earlier than the other
> factory?  My 1957 FC with the gray deco name plate was a
> California trailer.   Another detail to learn more about!
>
> Fred

I'm not really sure where they were built as they both have serial # plates
that note addresses in Ohio & California. Perhaps the serial numbers will
help. The 57 is # 05149 and the 59 is I 289079. I assume that the 57 is
California built as it spent most of its life in Texas. The 59 spent all of
its life in Pa so I would assume Ohio. I think the 50 Cruiser was built in
California as the Ohio plant opened sometime after that. I would be
interested in knowing though.
Thanks,
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 10:20:06 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

Ok, now even I am confused.  Are we talking about the Block Lettering
Plate:
http://campingclassics.com/rr_topics_nameplate.html

or the "Deco" Plate:
http://campingclassics.com/archives1/56Safari/56Safaric.jpg
http://campingclassics.com/archives1/51Cruisette/51CruisetteB/51Cruisett
ee.jpg
http://campingclassics.com/archives1/54FC/%2754FCf.jpg

AirstreamDreams.com makes a nice repro of the Block Plate in an
appropriate blue background.  No one yet makes the script plate (too
bad), and from what I've seen of early 1950 rally pictures, the original
background of the old deco plate was also blue. Now as to what color
blue it actually was is tough.  Since both the blue on the plate and
pictures faded, it's hard to tell.  Most plates nowadays don't have a
trace of color left in them, much like my plate was.

Colin, think you and Steve might make the Deco plate one day?

Later,
RJ


> -----Original Message-----
> From: chyde@primelink1.net [mailto:chyde@primelink1.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 12:21 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
>
>
> >The deco style (with round letters) name plates from
> > about 1948 to about 1958 or maybe slightly later did not
> > have a blue background.  The background was an aluminum or
> > grayish color with the brighter polished letters spelling
> > AIRSTREAM.  My 1957 Flying Cloud (since sold) and 1951
> > Clipper both have this type of deco nameplate.  I'm not
> > aware of anyone who is reproducing these grayish background
> > deco style AIRSTREAM nameplates.
> ...
> Airstreamdreams has
> reproduced the blue
> background version and if there truly is a gray background
> version existing
> I'm sure that would be easy to recreate as well...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 13:32:21 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

> Colin, think you and Steve might make the Deco plate one day?
> 
> Later,
> RJ

Way ahead of you,
Steve was selling them at the International this year. They look great!
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 10:31:34 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] VintageAirstream.com

I'm transferring my website to a new host, so it will be down for
awhile, as will be my webmaster address.  In the meantime, my alternate
domain will be active with the same content:
http://www.campingclassics.com

Looking forward to catching up on all the content I have to put up on
the website.
Later,
RJ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 10:35:16 -0700
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: RE: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

I stand corrected:
http://www.airstreamdreams.com/item.jhtml;$sessionid$5D0NFDYAAAFI5TZENUE
UTIWPERWRJPX0?UCIDs=69540%7C1220126&PRID=1380014

(Cut & Paste the URL)

Way to go guys. I hope the Hehr Vent project is as successful.

RJ

> -----Original Message-----
> From: chyde@primelink1.net [mailto:chyde@primelink1.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 1:32 PM
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Cc: chyde@primelink1.net
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
>
>
> > Colin, think you and Steve might make the Deco plate one day?
> >
> > Later,
> > RJ
>
> Way ahead of you,
> Steve was selling them at the International this year. They
> look great!
> Colin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 13:46:38 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

> Way to go guys. I hope the Hehr Vent project is as successful.
> 
> RJ

Still working on that one!
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 14:25:36 EDT
From: Imp67cc64@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Towing vehicle request/optional equipment

Just thought I would mention the need for positraction/limited slip rearend 
on whatever youu consider.  Most get usual tow pkgs, but many (including myself 
on the Surburban I used to have) forget about the need for a locking rearend. 
 This is a very inexpensive item when ordering a vehicle and can keep you out 
of trouble many times over when towing a trailer.

John -- 77 Excella 500
Atlanta

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 14:48:07 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Towing vehicle request/optional equipment

> Just thought I would mention the need for positraction/limited slip
rearend
> on whatever youu consider.  Most get usual tow pkgs, but many (including
myself
> on the Surburban I used to have) forget about the need for a locking
rearend.
>  This is a very inexpensive item when ordering a vehicle and can keep you
out
> of trouble many times over when towing a trailer.

This is a very good point. Many people don't realize that 4X4 vehicles with
out a locking or limited slip differential have power going to only two
wheels, one front and one rear. Similarly, 2X4 vehicles without the locking
differential are actually one wheel drive except on a dead straight with no
differences in traction on either wheel. My 2wd Suburban with a limited slip
will go through almost anything.
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 12:11:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

I saw the deco plate on the Airstream Dreams website a
month or two ago - yep, still there:

http://www.airstreamdreams.com/item.jhtml;$sessionid$5E2APOIAAADNHTZENUGETIWPERWRJPX0?UCIDs=69540%7C1220126&PRID=1380014

- --- RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Ok, now even I am confused.  Are we talking about
> the Block Lettering
> Plate:
> http://campingclassics.com/rr_topics_nameplate.html
> 
> or the "Deco" Plate:
>
http://campingclassics.com/archives1/56Safari/56Safaric.jpg
>
http://campingclassics.com/archives1/51Cruisette/51CruisetteB/51Cruisett
> ee.jpg
>
http://campingclassics.com/archives1/54FC/%2754FCf.jpg
> 
> AirstreamDreams.com makes a nice repro of the Block
> Plate in an
> appropriate blue background.  No one yet makes the
> script plate (too
> bad), and from what I've seen of early 1950 rally
> pictures, the original
> background of the old deco plate was also blue. Now
> as to what color
> blue it actually was is tough.  Since both the blue
> on the plate and
> pictures faded, it's hard to tell.  Most plates
> nowadays don't have a
> trace of color left in them, much like my plate was.
> 
> Colin, think you and Steve might make the Deco plate
> one day?
> 
> Later,
> RJ
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: chyde@primelink1.net
> [mailto:chyde@primelink1.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 12:21 PM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
> >
> >
> > >The deco style (with round letters) name plates
> from
> > > about 1948 to about 1958 or maybe slightly later
> did not
> > > have a blue background.  The background was an
> aluminum or
> > > grayish color with the brighter polished letters
> spelling
> > > AIRSTREAM.  My 1957 Flying Cloud (since sold)
> and 1951
> > > Clipper both have this type of deco nameplate. 
> I'm not
> > > aware of anyone who is reproducing these grayish
> background
> > > deco style AIRSTREAM nameplates.
> > ...
> > Airstreamdreams has
> > reproduced the blue
> > background version and if there truly is a gray
> background
> > version existing
> > I'm sure that would be easy to recreate as well...
> 
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all
> unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
> go to
>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
> 
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
http://shopping.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 14:18:46 -0500
From: "Jerry Harris" <jharrisphd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring

Years ago, a member of VAC used aluminum honeycomb flooring in an
Airstream he refurbished.  It is the same stuff they use in aircraft
flooring.  I am not sure the price.  I may not want to know.  I did a
search and here is what I found.  Scroll donw to "Aluminium Honeycomb"
and click.  I am not sure why they can't spell aluminum.  The honeycomb
is light, very strong and resistant to rot, mold, etc.  

http://www.panelprojects.com/honeycomb.htm

Enjoy,
Jerry Harris
2000 Diesel Excursion 4x4
1971 Tradewind 25 foot
1982 Silver Streak 33 foot

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 15:41:48 -0700
From: "chyde" <chyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring

> Years ago, a member of VAC used aluminum honeycomb flooring in an
> Airstream he refurbished.  It is the same stuff they use in aircraft
> flooring.  I am not sure the price.  I may not want to know.  I did a
> search and here is what I found.  Scroll donw to "Aluminium Honeycomb"
> and click.  I am not sure why they can't spell aluminum.  The honeycomb
> is light, very strong and resistant to rot, mold, etc.

Jerry,
I bought a 1/2" 4X8 sheet of this stuff several years ago and it was $500
CDN. Nice stuff and would make a great floor if you can afford it.
Incidentally, aluminum is called Al-U-Mini-Um in Britain. That website
belongs to a British company.
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 16:05:54 -0400
From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring

Jerry Harris wrote:
<snip> I am not sure why they can't spell aluminum.  <snip>

They can't (pronounced "cahnt") pronounce it either (pronounced 
"eyether").  In England (and Canada) it IS aluminium.

Matt
Married to a Limey for 32 years and still haven't convinced her she 
talks funny.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 13:07:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring

Jerry - in the UK they spell aluminum as aluminium -
I'd guess they pronounce it that way too!

do you know who it was that actually did the flooring
that way?  I remember talk of it, but I don't remember
anyone doing it.

Toby

- --- Jerry Harris <jharrisphd@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> Years ago, a member of VAC used aluminum honeycomb
> flooring in an
> Airstream he refurbished.  It is the same stuff they
> use in aircraft
> flooring.  I am not sure the price.  I may not want
> to know.  I did a
> search and here is what I found.  Scroll donw to
> "Aluminium Honeycomb"
> and click.  I am not sure why they can't spell
> aluminum.  The honeycomb
> is light, very strong and resistant to rot, mold,
> etc.  
> 
> http://www.panelprojects.com/honeycomb.htm
> 
> Enjoy,
> Jerry Harris
> 2000 Diesel Excursion 4x4
> 1971 Tradewind 25 foot
> 1982 Silver Streak 33 foot
> 
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
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> unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
> go to
>
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> 
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http://shopping.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 17:14:00 -0400
From: Dick Kenan <as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring

>[snip] I am not sure why they can't spell aluminum.

LOL...of course, you do know that it's spelled with a second "i," 
aluminium, in Canada and Brittain.

- - Dick
(5368)


>http://www.panelprojects.com/honeycomb.htm
>
>Enjoy,
>Jerry Harris
>2000 Diesel Excursion 4x4
>1971 Tradewind 25 foot
>1982 Silver Streak 33 foot
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

"The trouble with most folks isn't so much their ignorance, as knowing so 
many things that ain't so."
- -- Josh Billings
- ---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:as5368@xxxxxxxxxx.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/ 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 16:56:14 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar

Riv:
   My frig is made by Novakool, a Canadian, BC outfit. It is 
specifically for RV's and folks who are off the grid. It is 12v only 
and uses the new "freon" that autos use. It supposedly uses 3 amp/day 
or half that if installed with extra foam insulation. I'm not sure 
about venting - I'll check on that. Thanks for the encouragement. If it 
doesn't work out, meaning that the batteries can't keep up with it with 
the help of the generator (Honda EU2000), I'll put a couple of solar 
panels up - probably the flexible ones. 'We have a local company that 
will order them and install them. That's the plan.
On Wednesday, October 1, 2003, at 01:31 AM, Rik & Susan Beeson wrote:

> Joann, Did you get an RV type fridge that works on either gas or 
> 12-volt, or a 12-volt-only freon-type fridge? What brand is it? I had 
> a 12-volt fridge in a little LeSharo motorhome, and it was the 
> berries. Cooled down real quick (ice in 90 minutes) and did not use 
> NEARLY the juice that the resistance heater in a gas/electric RV 
> fridge uses. Also (and this was the reason they used it), it required 
> NO venting. That means NO holes in your rig for the fridge. There is 
> something to be said for that, particularly with a trailer that didn't 
> originally come with a gas fridge.
>
> Chris, where did you get those panels? The place you indicated didn't 
> know what I was talking about.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rik
>
>
> Joann Wheatley wrote:
>
>> Thanks Dean but it's about 10 days too late. I ordered it by phone 
>> and MC and it is in transit as we speak. So, here will be some first 
>> hand mistake/knowledge in the making. I'm sure I've made some other 
>> weird choices: a 2-burner cast iron stove top (fishing shack), an 
>> on-demand water heater...Oh well, I also bought a Citroen in 1970 and 
>> have had 3 British sports cars, I married a computer geek (that was 
>> 36 yrs ago and wildly successful), and other stuff like that. I don't 
>> know why I do it.
>> Jo Ann
>> On Sunday, September 28, 2003, at 01:47 PM, dean wrote:
>>
>>> Please ReThink your 12 Volt refrig.  They just don't work and they 
>>> will take your Batteries down
>>> fast.
>>> Stay with the Propane gas models   Don't take my word,  check with 
>>> others on this too.
>>> Dean
>>>
>>> On Sunday, September 28, 2003, at 11:50  AM, Joann Wheatley wrote:
>>>
>>>> Chris - could you describe how you installed the flexible panels in 
>>>> a little more detail or maybe a picture? Do they just keep your 
>>>> battery(s) charged and then you run stuff off the battery? I have a 
>>>> 12v refrig on order and am still a little concerned that the 
>>>> generator alone is not going to keep my Bubble's 12v battery (just 
>>>> one) charged when not on shore power although I won't have a 
>>>> microwave, hair dryer etc just lights and water pump on electric; 
>>>> no AC either.
>>>> jw
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 17:02:51 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Name Plate Color?

Fred:
   I have a CA Bubble and the deco plate is pale blue. None in the front 
and not holes where one may have been so I assume AS just put them on 
the rear. and the serial # is 3 numerals as you described and while 
grinding all the rust off the frame, I found another location (secret) 
with the serial # stamped on the frame - I repainted the frame with 
Rustoleum "Rust Preventer" or something like that and the serial # 
disappeared - but I know where it is.
Jo Ann
On Wednesday, October 1, 2003, at 08:02 AM, Fred Coldwell wrote:

> Deborah:
>
>     Interesting!  Was your Bubble manufactured in California
> or Ohio? If Calif., the serial number should be a 3 digits
> and all numbers.  If Ohio, it well begin with an "O" [Oh,
> not zero].  What color is underenath the blue?  Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
> Deborah Bede wrote:
>>
>> Well, my 1955 Bubble has the deco plate, and it has a blue background.
>> There's no evidence that it was ever repainted or that it was 
>> replaced.  The
>> blue color is somewhat pale, I'm not sure of the original color.
>>
>> Deborah
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original 
>> text
>>
>> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 17:17:28 -0700
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

There seems to be enormous variation in nameplate color and placement. 
My '57 Bubble from CA is pale blue but the location is directly below 
the rear window. By the way, an energetic helper "polishing", 
obliterated most of the nice pale blue and guess what, it's grey 
underneath. After all those years, it's hard to imagine that the "blue" 
of various hues hasn't been altered by weathering, polishing, birddoo, 
etc.
Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 18:12:26 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

RJ and all - the "deco plate" is available with blue background from
Airstream Dreams as well:

www.AirstreamDreams.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=69540%7C1220126&PRID=1380014

I have a set and they came out great even if I do say so myself. I did the
artwork for them. Although the webpage doesn't say so, they come in sets of
two for the listed price.

Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT 



> Ok, now even I am confused.  Are we talking about the Block Lettering
> Plate:
> http://campingclassics.com/rr_topics_nameplate.html
> 
> or the "Deco" Plate:
> http://campingclassics.com/archives1/56Safari/56Safaric.jpg
> http://campingclassics.com/archives1/51Cruisette/51CruisetteB/51Cruisett
> ee.jpg
> http://campingclassics.com/archives1/54FC/%2754FCf.jpg
> 
> AirstreamDreams.com makes a nice repro of the Block Plate in an
> appropriate blue background.  No one yet makes the script plate (too
> bad), and from what I've seen of early 1950 rally pictures, the original
> background of the old deco plate was also blue. Now as to what color
> blue it actually was is tough.  Since both the blue on the plate and
> pictures faded, it's hard to tell.  Most plates nowadays don't have a
> trace of color left in them, much like my plate was.
> 
> Colin, think you and Steve might make the Deco plate one day?
> 
> Later,
> RJ
> 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: chyde@primelink1.net [mailto:chyde@primelink1.net]
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 12:21 PM
>> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>> Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?
>> 
>> 
>>> The deco style (with round letters) name plates from
>>> about 1948 to about 1958 or maybe slightly later did not
>>> have a blue background.  The background was an aluminum or
>>> grayish color with the brighter polished letters spelling
>>> AIRSTREAM.  My 1957 Flying Cloud (since sold) and 1951
>>> Clipper both have this type of deco nameplate.  I'm not
>>> aware of anyone who is reproducing these grayish background
>>> deco style AIRSTREAM nameplates.
>> ...
>> Airstreamdreams has
>> reproduced the blue
>> background version and if there truly is a gray background
>> version existing
>> I'm sure that would be easy to recreate as well...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 21:24:05 -0400
From: pete highlands <satdjpete@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Aluminum honeycomb flooring

Because its an offshore supplier that's how they spell it there.
                                     Pete
                                     1968 24ft TW
                                     1947 Plymouth TV

Jerry Harris wrote:
> Years ago, a member of VAC used aluminum honeycomb flooring in an
> Airstream he refurbished.  It is the same stuff they use in aircraft
> flooring.  I am not sure the price.  I may not want to know.  I did a
> search and here is what I found.  Scroll donw to "Aluminium Honeycomb"
> and click.  I am not sure why they can't spell aluminum.  The honeycomb
> is light, very strong and resistant to rot, mold, etc.  
> 
> http://www.panelprojects.com/honeycomb.htm
> 
> Enjoy,
> Jerry Harris
> 2000 Diesel Excursion 4x4
> 1971 Tradewind 25 foot
> 1982 Silver Streak 33 foot
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 21:58:19 -0400
From: "chyde" <brownhyde@primelink1.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Vintage Nameplate Color?

> I have a set and they came out great even if I do say so myself. I did the
> artwork for them. Although the webpage doesn't say so, they come in sets
of
> two for the listed price.

The 60's nameplates are sold individually so I would imagine the "deco"
style 50's plates are also sold indiviually.
Colin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 22:12:17 -0500
From: "Chuck Schmitz" <chuckschmitz@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] window glass

I have an 18 foot 59 traveler and I need to replace some window panes. They
have Plexiglas in them now. What do folks recommend as a replacement?

Chuck Schmitz
59 traveler Kansas City
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "VAL Digest" <valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist-digest@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 1:00 AM
Subject: VAL Digest V1 #21


>
> VAL Digest         Tuesday, September 30 2003         Volume 01 : Number
021
>
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> Topics in Today's Digest:
>
> [VAL] Flexible solar panels
> Re: [VAL] solar
> Re: [VAL] solar
> [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
> Re: [VAL] solar
> [VAL] Towing vehicle request
> Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
> RE: [VAL] looking for window part
> [VAL] solar webpage photo
> Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
> Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
> Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
> RE: [VAL] vent cover
> RE: [VAL] Floor replacement
> RE: [VAL] source for repair
> Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
> Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
> [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada
> Re: [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada
> Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 08:45:24 -0500
> From: "Sherry" <sherryhayes@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Flexible solar panels
>
> I've been using the regular Unisolar flexible panels for about 7 years
now.
> Mine don't stick down, but I just throw them up on top of the trailer when
> I'm stopped and plug them directly into the battery. They fit perfectly
> under the mattress when I'm on the road. Even without sticky stuff they're
> so flat that they stayed on the trailer one night with winds over 70 mph.
> I've been very happy with them and have camped for several weeks (in
really
> good sun in Mexico) with only one battery. I'm pretty frugal with power,
> though.
>
> Sherry
> '63 Bambi
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:04:41 -0500
> From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] solar
>
> Greetings Dean!
>
> <<quote>>
> > Please ReThink your 12 Volt refrig.  They just don't work and they will
> > take your Batteries down
> > fast.
> > Stay with the Propane gas models   Don't take my word,  check with
> > others on this too.
> > Dean
> <<quote>>
>
> I am sorry that you have had bad experiences with the 12-volt side of RV
> refrigerators.  I am on my second, and wouldn't voluntarily have any other
> type.  Each of mine has been a 3-Way (1980 Dometic 3-Way and 2001 Dometic
> 3-Way), but I wouldn't hesitate to consider a strictly 12-volt if the size
> were correct.  My current Dometic 3-Way was installed nearly three years
ago
> in my Overlander as part of its restoration, and it has only been operated
> on LP for at most three hours (shake-down to be sure that it worked on LP)
> the balance of the time has been on 12-volt or 110 AC.  I always tow with
> the refrigerator on 12-volt mode and have always had perfectly cooled
> conditions in both the refrigerator and freezer - - even after twelve
hours
> of travel with 98 degree heet and 99% humidity.  The only shortcoming that
I
> have experienced is that it can take up to 36-hours or a bit more for an
> initial cool of the refrigerator if done on 12-volt.
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin D. Allen
> WBCCI/VAC #6359
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
> 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar
> In-Training)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:18:25 -0500
> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] solar
>
> Cut to the chase! How many bucks per watt?
>
> Gerald J.
> - --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:13:08 -0400
> From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
>
> 36 hours?  Holy Cow!
>
> I can pull down my Norcold 8.0 cubic fridge in about 2 hours with LP gas.
I
> can make ice in 3 hours in that same fridge.  I do however have a fast
> moving air vent ;) that doesn't let the warm air linger behind the fridge.
> And, I've also put a open / shut air register in the plug door with a 12
vdc
> computer fan pulling air up, over and out across the fridge coils.
>
> 36 hours?  That's way to long for my taste.
>
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
>
>
> From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
>
> .  The only shortcoming that I
> : have experienced is that it can take up to 36-hours or a bit more for an
> : initial cool of the refrigerator if done on 12-volt.
> :
> : Kevin
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:49:20 -0700
> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] solar
>
> Chris:
>    Thanks for all the info. When you say I'll need more batteries - do
> you think two 12v would be enough? Deep cycle, Trojan's? In series or
> parallel? I'm still confused about that even though it's been explained
> several times. I don't need to know "why" just which way will do me the
> most good.
> Jo Ann
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:57:58 -0400
> From: "Dave Mills" <davemills60@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Towing vehicle request
>
> We have a l966 Globetrotter which I bought from Chris Elliott three years
> ago and which has worked beautifully for us on two major trips totaling
over
> 11,000 miles.  Our problem is that it not surprisingly is outlasting our
98
> Ford Explorer and we are considering what to buy for a new tow vehicle.
My
> wife would prefer an SUV with enough power (I think that Ford was marginal
> but OK) and I could go with a pick-up or an SUV.  Adequate power to pull
the
> about (I believe) 4000 pounds of the AS loaded balanced against gas
economy
> is the equation (factoring in also, of course, the initial cost).  The
> vehicle would also be our primary one going from our small Maine island
back
> and forth to civilization.  I would appreciate the wisdom which you all
can
> give me about this issue.  Thanks very much, Dave and Susan Mills (plus
> "Piccolo" the AS).
>
>
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE!
> http://msnmessenger-download.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:05:05 -0700
> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
>
> Well, now I know where to go borrow ice cubes. Let me know your travel
> itinerary - I think I just solved my frig dilemma.
> Jo Ann
>
> On Monday, September 29, 2003, at 09:13 AM, T o m :-)) wrote:
> > 36 hours?  Holy Cow!
> > I can pull down my Norcold 8.0 cubic fridge in about 2 hours with LP
> > gas.  I
> > can make ice in 3 hours in that same fridge.  I do however have a fast
> > moving air vent ;) that doesn't let the warm air linger behind the
> > fridge.
> > And, I've also put a open / shut air register in the plug door with a
> > 12 vdc
> > computer fan pulling air up, over and out across the fridge coils.
> > 36 hours?  That's way to long for my taste.
> > Tom
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:20:02 -0700
> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] looking for window part
>
> In addition to many brick & mortar Airstream dealers, the only online
> source I know of is InlandRV (http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/ for
> pictures). They have the mechanism and the clips.  The issue with their
> clips is that they require InLand's stainless steel window pane edging
> kits.  I've got to give Andy credit in this case, the kits are very
> nice, and are almost a necessity when replacing a broken Corning glass
> window with Acrylic sheet material, as it gives the 1966-1968 windows a
> nice finished edge, strength and weight to keep them from flapping in
> the wind.
> Best of luck,
> RJ
> VintageAirstream.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 8:00 AM
> > To: jcchome@xxxxxxxxxx.com; valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] looking for window part
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I need help finding a part for our 67 Tradewind.  The windows
> > have crank
> > clamps that pull the window tightly shut.  I need two of these.
> > Actually I need one spring that engages the window clip and two brass
> > threaded rods that pull the spring and hold the crank.  Any thought on
> > where I should look?  Inland Rv and Camper Repair in Al.
> > couldn't help.
> ..............
> > Best Regards,
> >    Jim
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:26:05 -0700
> From: "Richard        McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
> Subject: [VAL] solar webpage photo
>
> From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] solar
>
> Dan And Scott ,
> I ordered them thru
> http://www.solarwindsnorthernlights.com/
>
>
> Chris - thanks for the URL - just watching the website main page open up
on
> the computer screen is great.
> Great photography - and design concept.  And...it's also a very
interesting
> site.  Thanks.
>
> RL
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:44:39 -0500
> From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
>
> Greetings Tom!
>
> As I said, the only disadvantage is the long cool down time on 12-volt - -
I
> have a total distaste for LP/Natural gas appliances so do not use that
> option unless it is a last choice alternative.  The cool down time on
> regular AC is four to six hours.
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin D. Allen
> WBCCI/VAC #6359
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
> 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (Towcar
> In-Training)
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "T o m -" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 11:13 AM
> Subject: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge? Bah, Humbug!
>
>
> > 36 hours?  Holy Cow!
> >
> > I can pull down my Norcold 8.0 cubic fridge in about 2 hours with LP
gas.
> I
> > can make ice in 3 hours in that same fridge.  I do however have a fast
> > moving air vent ;) that doesn't let the warm air linger behind the
fridge.
> > And, I've also put a open / shut air register in the plug door with a 12
> vdc
> > computer fan pulling air up, over and out across the fridge coils.
> >
> > 36 hours?  That's way to long for my taste.
> >
> > Tom
> > WBCCI 5303
> >
> >
> > From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
> >
> > .  The only shortcoming that I
> > : have experienced is that it can take up to 36-hours or a bit more for
an
> > : initial cool of the refrigerator if done on 12-volt.
> > :
> > : Kevin
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 15:01:58 -0400
> From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
>
> Jo Ann
> I elected to not make it a permanent hook up. Just use it only when I have
> to at home if the tank needs dumped. Thought about making it permanent but
I
> do not have a gray tank.
> Bobby
> '73 Ambassador
> Valdosta, GA
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: WLSZLKBRNVWWCUFPEGAUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPBAR
> > Is it the ShurFlo one that you've got? And is it a "permanent"
> > installation or do you put the Macerator on just to dump?
> > Jo Ann
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:30:34 -0400
> From: Dave Lowrey <airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] waste tank valves
>
> At 10:20 PM 9/23/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >Bobby,
> >
> >At Camping World I purchased a new type of contraption so I don't have to
> >haul around the blue slinky anymore.  Have you seen them?
>
> My only problem with the "Sewer Solution" macerator is when you have been
> dry camping, most dump stations don't have water sources with hose
> connectors on the end (I think so that "idiots" dont fill up their water
> tanks from it), so you cant use it.
>
> You still need to carry the blue slinky hose...
>
> Dave
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - dave_lowrey@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> WBCCI: 5074
>
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:46:55 -0700
> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] vent cover
>
> As noted, some 1960's Airstreams have a rogue opening size.  Best bet is
> to measure the outside dimensions of the vent opening and contact Steve
> Hintgen (info@xxxxxxxxxx.com) at AirstreamDreams.com and see if their
> cover fits.  It is an excellent reproduction of the original.
> Best of luck,
> RJ
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
> > Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 12:14 PM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: Re: [VAL] vent cover
> >
> >
> > I dont want to start up any thing about anyones business but
> > I`m wondering
> > if the 14 by 26 ? vent covers available as a replacement fit
> > well on a 63
> > (square cornered ) vent hole .
> >    The previous owner`s homemade one on my trailer leaks like a peach
> > basket , and the replacement one is pretty spendy , but
> > making a new one
> > custom wont be cheap either .
> >    Seems I recall someone complaining about the fit on the list in the
> > past, maybe it was made for the the rounded corner later model type or
> > something ?? Anyway has anyone bought one for a 63 and are
> > you happy with
> > it ? And like I say , I dont want to start up a slurfest about anyones
> > business or prices . Just does it fit and work as it should .
> >   Chris
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 14:16:24 -0700
> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] Floor replacement
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 7:02 PM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #15
> >
> > Q:  Since I have already removed the belly pan would it not
> > make sense just to pull the body off the frame/floor to sand
> > blast and paint the frame & then replace the floor?  Are
> > there any draw backs to body removal vs using plywood spacers?
>
> Pro Removal: Easier to cut and install the new flooring and insulation
> and repair the frame - great time and way to install holding tanks
> between the frames (over the axle)
> Con: Shell is very unwieldy when not attached, and actually kinda heavy
> (Airstream installed with out windows, etc). Need overhead lift and
> space to drive out from under the shell.  Hard to align newly cut
> plywood floor to the correct edge of the frames and the curvature.  Many
> more skin fasteners required to be removed. Exposed to elements while
> replacing if done outdoors - just ask Wayne Moore:
> http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/wam52/lst?&.dir=/%2765+Caravel
>
> >
> > Q: The existing plywood is in such poor condition in the
> > front and rear I will not be able to use is as a template for
> > the new floor.  If I remove the body, would it be best to use
> > the C channel as my template for the new floor, or is there a
> > better way?
>
> With the shell all wiggling around, it may be hard to use it as a
> template, this is one of the cons.
>
> >
> > Q; I am planning to put a new belly pan on.  I would assume I
> > would use the old pan as a template?  How difficult is it to
> > put on a NEW pan?  Should it be "pre- bent" or .....
>
> Use the old as a template to cut the new. If it is a simple wrap up, no
> need to bend.  If it is a preformed corner, best bet is try and splice
> it back in, or you may have to kerf-cut the edge to get it to wrap
> around the corners.
>
> >
> > Q; What should I put between the frame and the new plywood
> > floor?  Fiberglass? or is there a better material?  I have
> > also read putting Styrofoam under the floor?
>
> Unfaced fiberglass batts seem to work the best.
>
> >
> > Q: I would like to replace one lower outer skin panel of the
> > 1956 Caravaneer (very front lower panel).  What is my best
> > bet?  Can I find a panel of this aluminum make up?  Would
> > Airstream have anything without plastic-coat?
>
> The front panel is flat, good choice to replace. It is a little thicker
> than the rest of the exterior to withstand roaddamage.  .040 2024-T3
> from airparts.com is one source.
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ Dial
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 14:28:11 -0700
> From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: RE: [VAL] source for repair
>
> You are most likely going to have to have it made at a sheetmetal shop
> or an aircraft repair FBO that specializes in sheet metal repairs. They
> can bend a repair piece for the frame to the correct cross section on
> brake, and then shrink the one side to form the correct arc and bend.
> May have to make a template so they can get the arc right.
>
> Congrats on finding the segments you do have.
>
> RJ
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net [mailto:cherring@xxxxxxxxxx.net]
> > Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 10:41 AM
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: [VAL] source for repair
> >
> >
> > Has anyone ever tried to replace the aluminum channel that
> > makes up the
> > framework of roof? I am replacing rear curved panels on '61 and just
> > realized that a piece of the channel is damaged from tree vs.
> > roof incident.
> > I would like to replace it with aluminum channel but it has a
> > curve to it
> > and looks like something custom made. Any ideas?
> >
> > I have all of the segments that form the curve for
> > replacement, however
> > while I'm going to all of this trouble I would like to find
> > one more segment
> > to install. If you are looking at the rear endcap and the
> > middle piece is
> > No. 1, I need the segment that is two over from that if you move in a
> > clockwise position.
> >
> > Maybe someone has a parts Airstream that they would be
> > willing to sell some
> > pieces of?
> >
> > Thanks for any leads.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 18:31:04 -0400
> From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
>
> Kevin,
>
> Do you also have a battery powered oven and cooktop?
>
> Tom
>
> From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge? Bah, Humbug!
>
>
> : Greetings Tom!
> :
> : As I said, the only disadvantage is the long cool down time on
12-volt - -
> I
> : have a total distaste for LP/Natural gas appliances so do not use that
> : option unless it is a last choice alternative.  The cool down time on
> : regular AC is four to six hours.
> :
> : Kevin
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 21:58:17 EDT
> From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
>
> A while back I had the replacement gas fridge go belly up and besides I
got
> tired of the gas stink in the trailer and converted to all electric I have
an
> electric or alchol cook top electric deep freeze under counter elictric
fridge
> Ac and a electric hotwater tankwe almost do all cooking with the
> microwave.when travling I have a 4000watt honda RV generator on the road
I normaly run it
> about 4hours out of eavery 10 to12hours it keeps eavery thing ok It takes
> about 10 minuts to get hot water from a cold start I have enough watage to
run
> almost eavery thing at once. in the campgrounds I need to be more careful
as a 30
> amp hookup is not quite enough.For my life style I am convinced that all
> electric is the way to go.The cost was about the same as a solar systemand
the
> generator does not weigh much more tan a bunch of battries.
> Jim Smith and Little Hemroid(the Spitz pup)
> 1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
> 1992 Dodge Cummins diesel
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:04:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
> From: kevinchop@xxxxxxxxxx.net
> Subject: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> In need of some advice.
>
> My wife and I are in the process of restoring a 1956 Caravanner.  We have
gutted the unit. Removed the belly pan. Removed the inner lower skin, cut
the bolts and removed the shell.  We have some marine grade plywood on order
(11ply).  Now the QUESTIONS :o)
>
> Q: The existing plywood is in such poor condition in the front and rear I
will not
> be able to use is as a template for the new floor.  If I remove the body,
would it
> be best to use the C channel as my template for the new floor, or is there
a better
> way?
>
> Q; I am planning to put a new belly pan on.  I would assume I would use
the old
> pan as a template?  How difficult is it to put on a NEW pan?  Should it be
"pre-
> bent" or ..... is it best to have Airstream do it?
>
> Q; What should I put between the frame and the new plywood floor?
Fiberglass? or
> is there a better material?
>
> Q: I would like to replace one lower outer skin panel of the 1956
Caravaneer (very
> front lower panel).  What is my best bet?  Can I find a panel of this
aluminum make
> up?  Would Airstream have anything without plastic-coat?
>
> Thanks
>
> Kevin & Valerie Chop
> #5585
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:19:13 EDT
> From: JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> Why in the worild wouldyou want to spend the money for 11 ply marine
plywood
> for a trailer floor? you do not need any more streangth than you would get
> with exterior ply wood the glue is the same in both. unless treated
especially
> arounrd the edges both will rot with equal speed.I have built many boats
in my
> time and for the soles(floors) we used exterior ply we cored the decks
with
> exterior plywood.there is no doubt that 11 plywoodwill do the job but why
spend
> the extry$$$$$$$$$ /Its your cow.
> Jim smith
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 20:07:48 -0700 (PDT)
> From: John Truitt <morzarty@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada
>
> I have a question about buying a used trailer in Canada.  What is
> involved?
> Taxes, Duty, Customs, Transfer of title? Michigan Plates.  All help is
> appreciated.  Thank you. John
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 21:53:03 -0600
> From: "Terry O'Neill" <woodfloor@xxxxxxxxxx.ca>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada
>
> Hi John
> I am in Calgary, Alberta and have purchased 1 trailer locally as well as 1
> in Ohio. In Canada you do not pay any tax on a used trailer if you
purchase
> it privately. if bought from a dealer you are charged 7% goods and
services
> tax (gst) and applicable provincial tax (no provincial sales tax in
> Alberta). I know you can claim a refund on gst when you return to the U.S.
> but I'm not sure about the provincial tax.
>
> If you bring a Michigan plate you should be fine. I checked at the border
on
> my way to get the trailer in Ohio and they said no problem moving. (from
> U.S. to Canada)
>
> I don't think any duty is charged on used trailers.
>
> Good luck
> Terry O'Neill
> 66 tradewind
> Calgary
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Truitt" <morzarty@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 9:07 PM
> Subject: [VAL] Buying Trailer in Canada
>
>
> > I have a question about buying a used trailer in Canada.  What is
> > involved?
> > Taxes, Duty, Customs, Transfer of title? Michigan Plates.  All help is
> > appreciated.  Thank you. John
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:38:46 -0400
> From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
> There are no gaps or spaces in Marine Grade plywood - each layer is solid
> 100%, no strips missing like you see on the ends of other plywood.
>
> My 1969 Int'l Ambassador has a floor that is made of 3/4" Marine Grade
> plywood.  When I needed to repair a small place by the entry door that is
> exactly what I used.  I believe I called the factory OR the floor material
> was mentioned in the original sales literature.  The factory sent me
copies
> of the original sales literature even though it was nearly 20 years old
when
> I got it.
>
> There is a difference between Marine Grade plywood and others.  Exterior
> plywood may use the same glues as you claim but what about the gaps in the
> layers?  I think that is where Marine Grade applies.  The Marine Grade is
> also treated plywood, can't say I know if exterior is or not.  Is it?  I
> don't know.
>
> And for a one time replacement job why not do it right to begin with?  Why
> try and cut corners anywhere for that matter?  You are working and trying
to
> make a good trailer better are you not?
>
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
>
> From: <JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 1957 Caravanner Renovationvalist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
>
>
> : Why in the worild wouldyou want to spend the money for 11 ply marine
> plywood
> : for a trailer floor? you do not need any more streangth than you would
get
> : with exterior ply wood the glue is the same in both. unless treated
> especially
> : arounrd the edges both will rot with equal speed.I have built many boats
> in my
> : time and for the soles(floors) we used exterior ply we cored the decks
> with
> : exterior plywood.there is no doubt that 11 plywoodwill do the job but
why
> spend
> : the extry$$$$$$$$$ /Its your cow.
> : Jim smith
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:45:04 -0400
> From: "T o m  :-\)" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge?  Bah, Humbug!
>
> Jim,
>
> Did you mount the 4kw generator or is it in the back of your truck?  I'm
> seriously thinking of adding generator power to our 1995 34' Excella
Classic
> FK trailer - there is a place underneath the front kitchen cabinet that
has
> an LED switch that says "Generator" but I never even knew it was possible
to
> put one in there to begin with.  We are the 3rd owners of the particular
> trailer.
>
> Tom
> WBCCI 5303
> 1995 34' Excella Classic FK
> 1969 29' International Ambassador
> 2001 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3-l Powerstroke Diesel
> 1990 Ford Bronco 4x4 351 V-8 (5.8-l I think it is)
> and some more stuff ;)
>
>
> From: <JSmith1805@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] 36 hours to pull down the fridge? Bah, Humbug!
>
>
> : A while back I had the replacement gas fridge go belly up and besides I
> got
> : tired of the gas stink in the trailer and converted to all electric I
have
> an
> : electric or alchol cook top electric deep freeze under counter elictric
> fridge
> : Ac and a electric hotwater tankwe almost do all cooking with the
> : microwave.when travling I have a 4000watt honda RV generator on the road
> I normaly run it
> : about 4hours out of eavery 10 to12hours it keeps eavery thing ok It
takes
> : about 10 minuts to get hot water from a cold start I have enough watage
to
> run
> : almost eavery thing at once. in the campgrounds I need to be more
careful
> as a 30
> : amp hookup is not quite enough.For my life style I am convinced that all
> : electric is the way to go.The cost was about the same as a solar
systemand
> the
> : generator does not weigh much more tan a bunch of battries.
> : Jim Smith and Little Hemroid(the Spitz pup)
> : 1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
> : 1992 Dodge Cummins diesel
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of VAL Digest V1 #21
> ************************
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary Digest text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to an e-mail format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 23:29:26 EDT
From: Hugheym@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] window glass

Chuck,
   I have 61 BAMBI which I am going to do the same thing. Mine has glass and 
I will replace them with Plexagalass. 

   Martin Hughey    
   10212 WBCCI Bonner Springs KS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 21:30:14 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] window glass

I like polycarbonate, known as GE Lexan. Its much tougher and more
resistant to sunlight. Also bendable to match the curved glass.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 00:05:27 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] window glass

In the 43 years (and uncountable miles) my trailer has been around only one
pane of glass has broken. I replaced it with glass. This is not an option
with many mid to late 60's trailers, as the original curved corning glass is
hard to come by.

Scott

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Schmitz" <chuckschmitz@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>

> I have an 18 foot 59 traveler and I need to replace some window panes.
They
> have Plexiglas in them now. What do folks recommend as a replacement?
>
> Chuck Schmitz
> 59 traveler Kansas City

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 01:13:00 EDT
From: SHMossLanding@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Airstream

How do I get to the want ads?

                                     Chuck

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #23
************************


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