VAL Digest V1 #187

VAL Digest           Sunday, March 14 2004           Volume 01 : Number 187




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Stiffness, rigidity
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Hinge sag
Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question
[VAL] Re: black & gray venting
Re: [VAL] Bookbinding my owners manual
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #186 - Travel trailer insurance
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #186 - Travel trailer insurance
[VAL] Re: Skyliner TV antenna ?
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Stiffness, rigidity
[VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] Re: Skyliner TV antenna ?
RE: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #186 - Travel trailer insurance
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Hinge sag
Re: [VAL] optima batteries - inteli-power - chargewiz
Re: [VAL] Venting Wash Water and Black Water
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] Clearcoat question
[VAL] Black water tank
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?
[VAL] Pensacola FL Vintage Rally
[VAL] Lansing WBCCI Rally in July
Re: [VAL] Black water tank
Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?
Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?
RE: [VAL] Refrigerator removal
Re: [VAL] hub/drum/wheel balancing

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 00:27:57 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Stiffness, rigidity

Airstreams and similar trailers such as Avion, Silver Streak, Streamline,
etc., are semi-monocoque construction. The body provides a large part of
the strength of the trailer, especially stiffness.
This kind of trailer does not twist very much even if supported only at
opposite corners as compared to the more common plywood and aluminum foil
and the laminate type trailers, which have very little stiffness in the
body. They rely almost entirely on the underframe for both strength and
stiffness.
There is almost no comparison whatsoever between an Airstream and a
mobile home. The Airstream is a highway vehicle designed to hold up to
hundreds of thousands of miles of high speed towing. The house trailer is
designed to be hauled from the factory to the dealer and then to the
final location where it is used as a permanent dwelling. Most mobiles do
not move again after being set up to be lived in until they are hauled
away to be scrapped. Mobiles are relatively flimsy and are intended to be
fully supported under the sills of their frames on pilings or continuous
foundations before being occupied.
The travel trailer is usable supported by only the wheels and the tongue.
Jacks or stands are only for preventing annoying shaking on the springs
and tires when occupants are moving around. They are not necessary for
keeping the trailer body aligned.
Our old 40' Spartan sat on only its wheels and the tongue jack through a
winter in which the frozen waterlogged snow piled up on its roof about
seven feet thick. The tongue was slightly bent from this tremendous
overload but the roof was not affected at all. Our dump truck's roof and
hood were crushed in. Many cars were badly damaged. Unoccupied mobiles
were destroyed, their roofs caved in. I saw one that even had its walls
buckled in places. Modern houses that were not cared for by having their
roofs cleared also had their roofs collapsed.
The Airstream is a better constructed trailer than the Spartan. It has
double walls where the Spartan has only thin plywood for the interior
wall skin.
Al
> 
> Faith Navarro wrote:
> 
> > We have a very small leak in our 1974 A/S that only happens when it
rains. The only place it shows up is on the floor, under the bookshelves,
at the left of a main window in the living room.
> > we have tried taping and putting plastic around the main window, the
small window below it, and on top around the vent window and TV antenna. 
> the only place we haven't touched on that side is the sunlight window
at the edge of the ceiling . One problem I notice is that the trailer is
setting a little out of level leaning to that side and the window that we
didn't do anything to, is slightly difficult to raise the inside cover
and the frame around it is not fitting secure.  I just feel sure it is
all because the A/S needs leveling as I know in a regular mobile home
that is unlevel, the cupboards don't shut well as well as the entrance
doors and the windows are hard to raise.
> >   Could I please get some feedback? My husband doesn't seem to think
I know what I am talking about and if I am wrong, I don't mind admitting
it and if I'm right, I won't gloat. My A/S comes first and foremost with
me before pride.
> > Faith Navarro

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 00:00:38 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Hinge sag

The zamak (zinc-aluminum-magnesium) hinge, being of softer metal than the
steel pin, will wear faster especially if it is dry of lubricant or
contaminated with dirt. It is not practical to remove the hinge pin
periodically for cleaning and relubricating, as it will excessively wear
the hinge. Just keeping the hinge and pin oiled to keep dirt out and
prevent corrosion is about all that is practical.
I had vertical sag in my door hinges and fixed it with nylon washers from
Lowe's. I was able to get the hinge pin out of the upper hinge far enough
to slip two washers into the hinge spaces after lifting the door up as
far as it would go. Then I pushed the pin back down and lightly rapped it
in place. The door is now properly aligned.
All noticeable wear is on the thrust faces (axial). There is no
noticeable wear in the bores of the hinge halves or on the pins (radial).

Al

> - ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 12:07:32 -0500
> From: Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Door Hinge Question
> 
> Hey Gang-
> 
> I have some slop in my front door hinge on my 1966 Safari. The Door is
beginning to sag clockwise when shut. 
> How have folks handled this?
> It looks like I will have no trouble drifting out the roll pin and
hinge pin as they seem to yield easily, but haven't disassembled it all
yet. 
> 
> Where does the wear seem to occur most? The Hinge Casting or the Hinge
Pin? Any advice?
> 
> Thanks in Advance
> 
> Alex in Indiana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 05:43:06 -0800
From: Graeme Thickins <graeme@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] (no subject)...Clearcoat question

To Andy (Inland RV Center) --

You said "Airstream is no different. They also don't
advertise the clear coat problem of years past."
What's the problem you're referring to here?

Also, does anyone out there have recommendations
for the best stripper to use to remove clearcoat,
and the proper procedure for doing it?

many thanks,
Graeme Thickins
Minneapolis
'67 Safari "International"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 10:03:19 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: black & gray venting

Ed,

As long as there is a trap to stop the gasses from entering the kitchen I
see no problem with it...I am far from an expert, but my black & gray tanks
share a common vent.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 09:14:12 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Bookbinding my owners manual

I took my owner's and service manuals to Kinko's, where they trimmed the
edges and punched them for spiral binding.  It holds well without tearing,
and the manuals lay flat when I open them.

I also laminated the covers for durability.

Roger

Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 11:42:33 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #186 - Travel trailer insurance

We got a more reasonable (or less unreasonable) quote from Progressive,
our vehicle insurer.

For RV insurance you want real insurance, not just a card to keep the
kopz off of you, so be wary of discount insurers that are hard to deal
with and collect claims.

A strange story -
When we were going to title and register our trailer, Oregon DMV said we
had to have liability insurance on the trailer. I said I had never heard
of any such thing - that the tow vehicle's liability insurance covered
any accident the trailer might get into. Two people with DMV insisted
that liability insurance was required. I emphasized that this was a
non-powered trailer, not a motor home. Made no difference to them.

I checked with Progressive and three of the writers assured me that not
only was such liability insurance not required but that none was even
sold. Travel trailer insurance is like homeowner's insurance - if
someone's kid gets hurt climbing on your trailer you are covered. If your
trailer catches fire and damages RVs near it, or damages the RV park, you
are covered. If you have full coverage your trailer and its contents are
covered (all to the policy limits). But there is no vehicular liability
insurance required or available for a non-powered towed vehicle.

When we got the application for title and registration I saw that there
is no place on the form to list insurance for a non-powered trailer.
Al

> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 09:09:27 -0800
> From: "John Wilson" <katyree@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Insurance Resources-72 Globetrotter.
> 
> Any suggestions for insurance ?
> I understand the liability goes with the vehicle insurance but if you
want collision, comprehensive or towing you may want to use a alternative
insurer.
> Received some fairly high quotes from Good Sam.
> Anyone found alternatives?
> John

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:10:08 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #186 - Travel trailer insurance

Liability insurance--  I was told that the tow vehicles liability insurance
covered any accident the trailer might get into as long as the trailer was
attached to the tow vehicle.  If the trailer came disconnected there would
be no liability insurance.  Seems like another loophole in the insurance
industry to make more money.
Dan

> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:16:33 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Skyliner TV antenna ?

Hi All:

   My 1964 Globe Trotter is equipped with a roof mounted
Skyliner TV antenna.  The control handle is inside the
trailer and instructs to pull the handle to raise or lower
the antenna.   I successfully did this last year, and could
rotate the antenna after I pushed the handle up.  This year
is the Challenge Gods selected me. 

   I've been pulling down on the handle but it does not want
to budge. I'm about ready to pull the whole antenna assembly
through the roof.  The handle is stuck in the "push up"
rotate mode but the antenna is in the lowered position. 

   I've gone to the roof, removed the plastic gear cover,
and tapped on the shaft inside the spiral gear, hoping to
get the handle to lower inside the trailer.  I've sprayed
the shaft with Kroil, hoping to loosen something up (or in
this case, down).  I've chanted incantations, burned
incense, prayed to Michael Powell and sprinkled crushed
Viagra on the antenna base.  Nothing has worked to raise my
TV antenna from the dead, so I'm soliciting sage advice from
the List.    
 
  Does anyone have any hints, tips or suggestions on how to
get the interior handle to lower when pulled so I can raise
the Skyliner TV antenna?   Thanks,

Fred Coldwell
Denver CO.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:00:06 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Stiffness, rigidity

Tom: does your statement hold for the old AS trailers as well or is 
there a pre-monocoque cutoff date?
The reason I ask is that I just found out that my helper guy did NOT 
(although I told him and reminded him several times, read: nagged) put 
bolts thru the new plywood floor into the frame members. Some of this 
got done whilst I was off fishing so it's obviously my responsibility 
but more importantly I'm now staying awake nights wondering if my '56 
Bubble is going to come undone while going down the road. The plywood 
was not replaced with big sheets but with pieces cut to fit into all 
the corners (1/2"plywood) so that it was easier to get the wood in and 
fitted. He then used small L-shaped brackets to join the wood to the 
side Al "studs" in the body.
Jo Ann
On 12, Mar 2004, at 10:27 PM, waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> Airstreams and similar trailers such as Avion, Silver Streak, 
> Streamline,
> etc., are semi-monocoque construction. The body provides a large part 
> of
> the strength of the trailer, especially stiffness.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 13:07:28 -0700
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Refrigerator removal

Help!!

I want to remove the refrigerator from my 1966 Trade Wind.

I see two attaching screws at the front. I see no screws at the back.

Are these the only screws securing the refrig. in the trailer? 

I would like to hear from any one that has information on this subject.


Thanks

Curtis

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:12:02 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Skyliner TV antenna ?

Fred,

Any chance you have a schematic drawing of this problem child?  Seeing how
things fit together might give us something to ponder which could help you
out.  I'm not sure about pushing the handle up; then tapping the top to make
it drop for instance.  If I could see a drawing ...

Tom
WBCCI 5303

From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Skyliner TV antenna ?


> Hi All:
>
>    My 1964 Globe Trotter is equipped with a roof mounted
> Skyliner TV antenna.  The control handle is inside the
> trailer and instructs to pull the handle to raise or lower
> the antenna.   I successfully did this last year, and could
> rotate the antenna after I pushed the handle up.  This year
> is the Challenge Gods selected me.
>
>    I've been pulling down on the handle but it does not want
> to budge. I'm about ready to pull the whole antenna assembly
> through the roof.  The handle is stuck in the "push up"
> rotate mode but the antenna is in the lowered position.
>
>    I've gone to the roof, removed the plastic gear cover,
> and tapped on the shaft inside the spiral gear, hoping to
> get the handle to lower inside the trailer.  I've sprayed
> the shaft with Kroil, hoping to loosen something up (or in
> this case, down).  I've chanted incantations, burned
> incense, prayed to Michael Powell and sprinkled crushed
> Viagra on the antenna base.  Nothing has worked to raise my
> TV antenna from the dead, so I'm soliciting sage advice from
> the List.
>
>   Does anyone have any hints, tips or suggestions on how to
> get the interior handle to lower when pulled so I can raise
> the Skyliner TV antenna?   Thanks,
>
> Fred Coldwell
> Denver CO.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:16:08 -0500
From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Refrigerator removal

Both my '60 and '68 had 4 screws holding it down.  The rear were accessable
from the outter door.  They were partially hidden by the rear legs.  Then
again, if it has been taken out before, the PO may have left them out.
Pete
Help!!

I want to remove the refrigerator from my 1966 Trade Wind.

I see two attaching screws at the front. I see no screws at the back.

Are these the only screws securing the refrig. in the trailer?

I would like to hear from any one that has information on this subject.


Thanks

Curtis

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:21:39 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #186 - Travel trailer insurance

Told by who, Dan?  Your insurance agent?  I've had claims when the trailer
was both attached and unattached to the tow vehicle.  Sitting in the
driveway it got vandalized - broken windows - insurance paid.  Towing with
the car, it was parked, someone backed into it - insurance paid.  My car
premiums and my trailer premiums didn't go up due to claims on either one -
my car policy or the separate trailer policy.

I do believe that your homeowners insurance might cover you - check your
policy or with your agent - should you incur a liability claim by someone
while they were in, about or around your trailer, etc.

Tom


From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #186 - Travel trailer insurance


> Liability insurance--  I was told that the tow vehicles liability
insurance
> covered any accident the trailer might get into as long as the trailer was
> attached to the tow vehicle.  If the trailer came disconnected there would
> be no liability insurance.  Seems like another loophole in the insurance
> industry to make more money.
> Dan

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:32:55 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #185 - Hinge sag

So all the wear was on the upper side of the hinge surfaces?  This is why
you installed your own fix with the nylon washers, correct?

If that is the case then you had a dropped door and not one that was out of
alignment, yes?

Tom
WBCCI 5303

From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> All noticeable wear is on the thrust faces (axial). There is no
> noticeable wear in the bores of the hinge halves or on the pins (radial).
> Al

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:50:20 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] optima batteries - inteli-power - chargewiz

Ed,

Thank you for your response.  I purchased 2 of the Optima RV/Marine Deep
Cycle batteries from Advantage Auto.  There is a 3-year guarantee swap
battery for battery with no prorating involved.  I like that part.  I was
able to get 10% off their discounted price just by asking for a discount
*because* these were expensive batteries *and* I would be giving them my
business IF they could give me a better price - and they did.  Final cost
was about $135.00 for each battery including tax and trade-in for the old
battery cores.

Currently we have the original Magnatek (I think that's the name) converter
that came with our Airstream back in 1995.  From all I've read in my manuals
there is only an On/Off switch for this converter - there is no middle
ground for full charging or topping off the batteries or a float charge I
think they call it.  I like that part about the Inteli-Power Charge Wizard
from all I've read.

There IS a switch in the Airstream to "turn off the buzz" made by the
original converter.  Seems that this was added by the factory due to
complaints by owners.  Wonder how many "forget" to turn the converter back
on again?   Bet that's happened! ;))

A good thing that Airstream added that our 1969 model does not have and that
is a switch to turn OFF the house batteries - both of them.  This is done
for long storage situations it says in the manual so that the batteries
don't get completely depleted which IS bad for any deep cycle battery from
what I've read.

Also, the On/Off switch for the house batteries makes it much safer to
remove the batteries from the Airstream without fear of shorting out one of
the terminals - and that also happens - which is dangerous to say the least.

I will look into your referenced sources for this next large purchase.

Tom
WBCCI 5303


From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] optima batteries - inteli-power - chargewiz


> Tom,
> I have Inteli-Power converters in both trailers with Charge Wizards, I
> run AGM batteries and have been very happy with the whole system. With 2
> kids who "forget" we are on batteries I very seldom run out of power
> with this set up. The Charge Wizard keeps me from cooking these big buck
> batteries but eliminates my worries of not being charged enough.
> As an FYI, Camping World was the cheapest source for the Inteli-Power
> and Charge Wizards and the Batteries were from West Marine.
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign
> 59 Traveler

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:53:33 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Venting Wash Water and Black Water

Ed,

I don't see any problem doing that whatsoever.  Your home has them vented
that way and as long as you use the P-traps filled with water you will have
no odor.  Now, if the water evaporates you certainly will have odors so just
don't let that happen.  Gray water tanks without the house P-trap plugged
with water smell similar to vomit - again from what I've read and not
experienced.

Tom
WBCCI 5303

From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Venting Wash Water and Black Water


> Hello All,
> I'm in the process of plumbing my black water tank and my gray water
> lines. The question is can I vent my kitchen sink and black water tank
> through the same vent stack? I have only one opening in the top for a
> inch and 1/2 vent pipe and thought I would check with you professionals
> to see if I can tie the two together or should I keep the black and wash
> separate.
>
> Not wanting to stink up the kitchen
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 13:55:28 -0700
From: "phelock" <phelock@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal

Thanks Pete,

Curtis

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:59:53 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?

Joy,

Has anyone successfully restored the rubber tubes inside of the old,
original axles before?  I know the rubber has to be taken down in temp with
liquid nitrogen or something similar so it will shrink to fit and that you
only have so much time to do this as well.  I've never heard of this being
done; but could it?

Tom
WBCCI
5303

From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> The condition of the axle is a different matter.  The torsion arm should
be
> parallel to the frame or better yet, have a 5 degree down angle.  If the
> angle is up, the axle is shot.
> Safari, Joy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 16:30:05 EST
From: Hugheym@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal

Cirtus,

   I removed a refrigerator from my 69. Hold down screws in rear as yours and 
pop rivets in the sides, about 10 inches or so down from top. These were 
hidden between the oven and a forward cabinet. I had to make a special tool. I 
made it from flat iron, cutting a long notch in one side and filling the opening 
with a hack saw blade. 

    Hope this helps you.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:24:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Amanda Meeker <goldens510@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Clearcoat question

Hi, Graeme,

For stripping clearcoat, I'm a huge fan of a product called SV-35 AC from Napier 
Environmental Technologies. I got mine from Aircraft Spruce. Environmentally friendly, 
doesn't burn your skin if you get some on you, and works like a charm. Paint it on, 
leave it about 15 minutes, hose it off. I have a little writeup about it on my website 
if you're interested. http://pages.sbcglobal.net/ameeker/exterior.htm 
- scroll down to the bottom of the page.

Best,

Amanda
'68 Safari
Sacramento

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:45:18 -0500
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] Black water tank

Hello All,
I have just purchased an 8 gallon black water tank and trying to figure
out how to install it. It has a bottom drain and is designed to site on
the floor There is a side that has a flat lip outside of the walls of
the tank, does this go to the floor or face up towards the stool? The
lip side is wider than the other side. I would also assume that this lip
is designed to secure to either the floor or to the top cover. Also any
hints on the best way to box it in would be appreciated.
Thanks
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:03:28 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal

> Help!!
>
> I want to remove the refrigerator from my 1966 Trade Wind.
>
> I see two attaching screws at the front. I see no screws at the back.
>
> Are these the only screws securing the refrig. in the trailer?
>
> I would like to hear from any one that has information on this subject.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Curtis

Hey Curtis:

Is it the original fridge, ie, is a Dometic M52?  My original one (I
replaced it with a Dometic RM 2510.2) had 3 bolts though the floor from the
bottom.  There were 3 holes in the belly pan to put a socket extension up
through and turn the bolt heads.  The nuts were accessible by either the
outer "fridge door" or the baseboard flip-down door at the bottom of the
front of the fridge.

My new fridge has 2 lag boltss holding down the back and 2 long screws going
diagonally down through the facia under the fridge door holding down the
front.

Check to see if you have any "mystery holes" through the belly pan in the
area under the fridge.

Also there were other impediments to removing it.  There were rivets through
wood panels into the side of the fridge.  And mine had the counter top
riveted to the sides of the fridge via an aluminum sheet metal saddle
arrangement.  This was a bear to get apart.  Apparently the original fridge
and the counter top, side panels etc were assembled as a unit and placed
during construction of the trailer.  Kind of nasty when you have to deal
with the fridge only later.

Good luck,

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:47:06 -0700
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?

My understanding is that Henchen will not rebuild the older axles, and I
doubt if anyone is set up to do it other than the factory. Take a look at
http://www.inlandrv.com for details on axles. Andy has the best info and
advice.

Forrest

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?


> Joy,
>
> Has anyone successfully restored the rubber tubes inside of the old,
> original axles before?  I know the rubber has to be taken down in temp
with
> liquid nitrogen or something similar so it will shrink to fit and that you
> only have so much time to do this as well.  I've never heard of this being
> done; but could it?
>
> Tom
> WBCCI
> 5303
>
> From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> > The condition of the axle is a different matter.  The torsion arm should
> be
> > parallel to the frame or better yet, have a 5 degree down angle.  If the
> > angle is up, the axle is shot.
> > Safari, Joy
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:47:40 -0600
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Pensacola FL Vintage Rally

The Pensacola WBCCI club is having a Vintage Rally at Mystic Springs 
Airstream Park on April 15-18 2004. Rally fee is only $10 per person and 
the camping fee is $9 per night. We will have a vintage open house and a 
polishing class on Sat, 17 April. Check out the details at :

http://www.geocities.com/mystic-springs/vintage.html

and plan on attending.

Herb
WBCCI 1861

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:52:15 -0600
From: Herb Spies <spies@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Lansing WBCCI Rally in July

Does anyone know if the Vintage parking area at Lansing will be within 
the 30 Amp electric area that is available for the extra $200?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:03:06 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Black water tank

Ed,

If the picture I have in mind of your tank is correct, that lip around the
edge of the tank is for mounting.  If top of floor mounting - the lip would
go downwards, onto the floor, with the tank itself above the lip.  If
underfloor mounting - the lip would go upwards, up TO the bottom of the
floor, the tank itself would then hang below the floor.

If mounting underneath the floor the lip would be secured TO the bottom of
the floor, the tank itself would also have to have some support in the form
of hanging straps, brackets, whatever, just as long as it did NOT depend on
the lip mounting hardware to hold it in place all by itself.

Tom
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
To: "Vintage List" <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 5:45 PM
Subject: [VAL] Black water tank


> Hello All,
> I have just purchased an 8 gallon black water tank and trying to figure
> out how to install it. It has a bottom drain and is designed to site on
> the floor There is a side that has a flat lip outside of the walls of
> the tank, does this go to the floor or face up towards the stool? The
> lip side is wider than the other side. I would also assume that this lip
> is designed to secure to either the floor or to the top cover. Also any
> hints on the best way to box it in would be appreciated.
> Thanks
> Ed
> WBCCI/VAC 4425
> 68 Sovereign
> 59 Traveler
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:10:47 -0600
From: "Gerald Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.isunet.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?

Henschen used to. They don't any more. Inland or Dexter are the options today.


Gerald J.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:14:44 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal

Hi,

My '69 Safari has 4 bolts through the bottom rail of the refrigerator and
one side can be reached from topside - but the nut or bolt comes through the
floor.  It might be possible to reach the lower through the air screen, but
my Safari had 4 rubber plugs in the belly for the purpose!

                                                         '69 Safari, Joy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:11:04 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 69 axles a problem?

Hi Tom,

You've reached the limit of my memory, but Henchen did restore axles at one
time.  Stopped the practice for some reason unknown to me.

                                                 Regards, Joy T Brew

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>

> Joy,
>
> Has anyone successfully restored the rubber tubes inside of the old,
> original axles before?  I know the rubber has to be taken down in temp
with
> liquid nitrogen or something similar so it will shrink to fit and that you
> only have so much time to do this as well.  I've never heard of this being
> done; but could it?
>
> Tom
> WBCCI
> 5303

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:36:56 -0500
From: "eemerick" <eemerick@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Refrigerator removal

Hello,
There should be a number of screws that go through the cabinet into the
side of the fridge, at least that was the way it was on my 68.
Good Luck
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Gary Quamen
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:03 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Refrigerator removal


> Help!!
>
> I want to remove the refrigerator from my 1966 Trade Wind.
>
> I see two attaching screws at the front. I see no screws at the back.
>
> Are these the only screws securing the refrig. in the trailer?
>
> I would like to hear from any one that has information on this 
> subject.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Curtis

Hey Curtis:

Is it the original fridge, ie, is a Dometic M52?  My original one (I
replaced it with a Dometic RM 2510.2) had 3 bolts though the floor from
the bottom.  There were 3 holes in the belly pan to put a socket
extension up through and turn the bolt heads.  The nuts were accessible
by either the outer "fridge door" or the baseboard flip-down door at the
bottom of the front of the fridge.

My new fridge has 2 lag boltss holding down the back and 2 long screws
going diagonally down through the facia under the fridge door holding
down the front.

Check to see if you have any "mystery holes" through the belly pan in
the area under the fridge.

Also there were other impediments to removing it.  There were rivets
through wood panels into the side of the fridge.  And mine had the
counter top riveted to the sides of the fridge via an aluminum sheet
metal saddle arrangement.  This was a bear to get apart.  Apparently the
original fridge and the counter top, side panels etc were assembled as a
unit and placed during construction of the trailer.  Kind of nasty when
you have to deal with the fridge only later.

Good luck,

GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:47:56 -0700
From: "gshippen" <gshippen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] hub/drum/wheel balancing

Andy,

I recall many years ago there being shops that offered a means to balance
the hub/drum/wheel assembly but where could one achieve that these days?

I have suspected this very thing in my Overlander where the ceiling skin has
cracked from the vibration of the AC unit.  Someone once told me to ride in
the trailer while in transit to observe the vibration level...I had the
tires balanced but still have not taken a ride to see if it stopped the
vibration.

Are there truck/trailer places set up to do that kind of tire balancing?
Thanks,

GAS
Ready for the snow to go so we can!

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #187
*************************


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