The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #180
VAL Digest Sunday, March 7 2004 Volume 01 : Number 180
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [VAL] New to the group!
Re: [VAL] Inland RV
Re: [VAL] battery placement
Re: [VAL] Re: Reese
Re: [VAL] monster house
Re: [VAL]more monster house
Re: [VAL] Inland RV
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #179
Re: [VAL]even more monster house
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #179
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #179
[VAL] DC power lines (was VAL Digest V1 #179)
[VAL] My New Airstream
RE: [VAL] battery placement
Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #179
Re: [VAL] battery placement
Re: [VAL] My New Airstream
Re: [VAL] My New Airstream
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #179 - Add batteries?
Re: [VAL] Inland RV
Re: [VAL] DC power lines (was VAL Digest V1 #179)
RE: [VAL] battery placement
[VAL] 72 Globetrotter
Re: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter
Re: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter
[VAL] Phone connector basics?
Re: [VAL] Phone connector basics?
Re: [VAL] Inland RV
Re: [VAL] Phone connector basics?
[VAL] Re: Airstream coffee
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 01:12:14 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] New to the group!
Welcome to the aluminum side of life.
We'll be making a trip from Valdosta, GA to FL in June, maybe we'll see you on
the road.
Need a break on your travels stop by. I have an extra 30 AMP hook up, plus
cable.
Bobby
1973 Ambassador
Valdosta, GA
229-460-5195
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: BUZXUWLSZLKBRNVWWCUFPEGAUTFJMVRESKPNKMBIPBARHDMNNS
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 4:51 PM
Subject: [VAL] New to the group!
Hello all! Just a quick note to intruduce myself. My name is Richard and I
am the new and proud owner of a Vintage 1977 Sovereign Airstream! My wife
and I are so excited! We will be using it for the first time this coming
June in Florida. If anyone has ANY advice on this model, please feel free to
post or email me as per below. Looking forward to all kinds of great
information!!!
Richard
safehome4u@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:safehome4u@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 01:24:44 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Inland RV
Never met them as I live in Georgia.
I have ordered a few things from them and Andy seems pretty decent to me,
though from reading others comments, I guess I've been lucky.
I'd say call a few places and compare prices. Then go for it.
I'd think you'd get good work done but price may be high unless you haggle.
I take my trailer to Walt's RV in Ocala Florida, and I would not take to some
yahoo that doesn't know squat about an Airstream other than "Oh, one of those
silver ones? They are cool."
Bobby
Valdosta, GA
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: STTZRCLBDXRQBGJSNBOHMKHJYFMYXOEAIJJPHSCRTNHGSWZ
Greetings,
I'm considering having a little appliance work done at Inland and was
wondering if anybody out there might have an experience/recommendation
they'd like to share. Feel free to contact me off list if you'd prefer.
Thanks in advance,
Wyn
Reno
65 Globe Trotter
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 23:29:56 -0700
From: "gshippen" <gshippen@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] battery placement
Here, here Joe,
We are watching meadow larks fly around in a foot of snow!
Gerald
(where it snowed also in Wyoming)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Winkler" <joepatwink@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 8:20 PM
Subject: [VAL] battery placement
> Dan,
> If gas fumes make you sick perhaps you should look into a alcohol
burning cook stove. They used to make them for boats, I bet somebody still
sells them. An old fashion ice box from a camper in the 50's or early 60's
would take care of the frig. Then all you have left is sleeping, and down
fill sleeping bags or multiple large dogs can take care of that problem.
> Joe in Wyoming
> (where it snowed today)
>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 01:45:12 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Reese
Patti
I've never used one but when I was selling RV's. I sold many to people with
smaller trailers and pop-up campers and they loved them. Had one guy that had
a pop-up for 5 years then traded in for a new one and explained the advantages
of the weight distribution (he never used one before) he got one and loved
it.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: DADRZFSQHYUCDDJBLVLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIPWIGYOKSTTZRCLBDXR
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 1:28 PM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Reese
Hi All,
Has anyone had experience with the Reese Mini-Lite Weight Distribution
System for lighter weight trailers? My FC weighs under 3,000 lbs. and
only has a tongue weight of 275. In looking at the Reese web site this
system seems ideal for it. I took it to Colorado with only a sway
control and it was fine combined with my 2500 Suburban but I think I'd
feel better with the WD added on. Any thoughts?
Patti
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 07:41:53 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] monster house
You can only imagine my contemptuous disgust as I tuned in monster house
just as the twentysomething designer-builder jerks took a sawsall to the
rear dome of a 65? a/s (looked like <63 to me ) to put a flat screen tv in
on their house makeover series . I guess if you own it you can do what you
will with it and parts is parts but I `d like watch in the mirrors as I
backed up over the next hollywood type who wrecks a trailer for a half
hours entertainment .
After all they really are infinitely repairable and I havent seen one
yet that I couldnt fix - as long as all the parts donors dont end up as tv
tables .
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:18:21 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL]more monster house
Chris Elliott wrote:
> >I `d like watch in the mirrors as I
> backed up over the next hollywood type who wrecks a trailer for a half
> hours entertainment .<
> And then get out and pull the dump valve .
> Chris - ( sorry moderaters I`ll be good now ! )
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:23:42 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Inland RV
On Inland, like it or not there is a ton of stuff that you can only get
there, Andy is the only person who has stepped up to the plate and
continues to make and stock hard to find parts. As has costs for this he
must pass along.
I dunno about his service, he sures knows these trailers.
In defense of non Airstream RV repairs: those of you who are lucky
enough to live close to the great gods of AS repair like Walt and
others, good for you. the rest of us have to make do. My local AS dealer
actually laughed at me for asking to order parts for my '73, so I
found a great outfit in Fitchburg MA, Dufours RV. The service guys love
that trailer and my money and always do a great job. Most of the guts of
an AS are the same as all other RV's. I haven't needed structural or
skin repairs yet. For the skin I would find an airplane repair guy and
for structural a horse trailer guy. If I bring my trailer in with
evidence of carelessness in her care and feeding, I get a good talking
to. MAny folks who really know RVs appreciate AS and are pleased to work
on a quality product, instead of putting bandaids on a rapidly
decomposing SOB. Of course, they'd rather sell you one, that's where the
$$$$ is for these guys.
Daisy
gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> Never met them as I live in Georgia.
> I have ordered a few things from them and Andy seems pretty decent to me,
> though from reading others comments, I guess I've been lucky.
> I'd say call a few places and compare prices. Then go for it.
> I'd think you'd get good work done but price may be high unless you haggle.
> I take my trailer to Walt's RV in Ocala Florida, and I would not take to some
> yahoo that doesn't know squat about an Airstream other than "Oh, one of those
> silver ones? They are cool."
>
> Bobby
> Valdosta, GA
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: STTZRCLBDXRQBGJSNBOHMKHJYFMYXOEAIJJPHSCRTNHGSWZ
>
>
> Greetings,
> I'm considering having a little appliance work done at Inland and was
> wondering if anybody out there might have an experience/recommendation
> they'd like to share. Feel free to contact me off list if you'd prefer.
> Thanks in advance,
> Wyn
> Reno
> 65 Globe Trotter
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 07:25:14 -0600
From: "Lee Pierce" <leefrankpierce@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #179
>Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 07:58:34 -0600
>From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>Subject: [VAL] Re:battery placement
>I am in the process of adding additional batteries to my 69 caravel. I
have
>room on the tongue for two and would like to have two more. Is there a
>problem with having two in the back and two in the front?? I understand
>that it would take a very heavy wire to connect them.
I have been using my A.S. as a hard sided tent for a couple of years.
Works great. I am just now getting around to putting in the water. In
fact I have decided against putting in a normal tolet and black tank. I
figure if I am going to have to haul the stuff in a tot-tank anyway, I
might as well not have to transfer it in the first place so I am using a
large port-a-potty. That helps to eliminate one need for the water pump.
Is the output of wood fires acceptable? That would solve all the heating
issues. You can cook in a Dutch oven, have a big kettle to create warm
bath water, and use old fashoned bed warmers to warm up the bed. ( An old
fashoned bed warmer is a pan with a long handle and a locking lid. You
scoop up hot coals from a fire, lock the lid, and stick it in the bed.
Once you want in, you pull it, wrapp it in a blanket and put it at your
feet. ) I have replaced my shower with a camper corner bathtub. It is
big enough to actually sit in and uses little enough water to be warmed
by a large kettle of boiling water.
I was wondering what your tow vehicle is?
I would consider having a battery pack that I would load into the tow
vehicle and then run a large set of wires from the battery pack. Do be
aware that for DC power, length and gage of wire will equal voltage drop
and power loss, so keep the wires short and fat. I would suggest using
house wiring like "Romex" in at least 10 gage. I have seen connectors on
the front of service vehicles for jumpstarting other cars. That would
make it most convienant. You could make this as easy as parking, removing
the trailer light plug and connecting the jumpers. There is a 12V power
connection on the trailer light plug so would suggest that you leave your
tow vehicle trailer lights disconnected so not to drain it. There are
automatic battery isolaters from boat shops that would allow you to
charge your pack while driving. I would also suggest that if you have an
enclosed tow vehicle, use the Optima style batteries. That would
eliminate the gasses and overall mess created by using a normal Lead Acid
batteries.
I think you will find that marine places will be very helpfull as they
don't have any place to plug in while anchored at a favorite spot in the
lake. Also fiberglass rosin burns very well and they dont like the idea
of sleeping in a flaming, floating, incenerator so they generally dislike
having any type of flames on boats. They will have circulation fans that
have their own photo cells, have large cloth scoops that you put over
your roof vents that channel air into, or draw air out of your cabin from
the slightest breeze and their sinks/tolets/showers have hand pumps. I
never checked on how to heat as I am in Texas and don't have to worry
about that much.
I really see your issues as more of a rethinking of how to use each
system. Isolate each system, and think of how to make it run
independantly.
Good Luck and let us know how it all works out.
Lee from Dallas
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:23:54 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL]even more monster house
Maybe I should film this ...?
Chris
> Chris Elliott wrote:
>
> > >I `d like watch in the mirrors as I
> > backed up over the next hollywood type who wrecks a trailer for a half
> > hours entertainment .<
> > And then get out and pull the dump valve .
> > Chris - ( sorry moderaters I`ll be good now ! )
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:39:29 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <celliott@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #179
Hot coals might warm me up a bit too much but it might condition me for whats
to come ... Much safer to carry a flat piece of soapstone or heat a rock (not
too much , rocks will spall and could hurt ya ) and warm up the bed that way
.
Chris (from Maine where it gets 3 clapboards below zero )
Lee Pierce wrote:Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Is the output of wood fires acceptable? That would solve all the heating
> issues. You can cook in a Dutch oven, have a big kettle to create warm
> bath water, and use old fashoned bed warmers to warm up the bed. ( An old
> fashoned bed warmer is a pan with a long handle and a locking lid. You
> scoop up hot coals from a fire, lock the lid, and stick it in the bed.
> Once you want in, you pull it, wrapp it in a blanket and put it at your
> feet. )
> Lee from Dallas
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 09:55:57 -0400
From: "Sean Doran" <bighorndoran@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #179
>I have a 73 trade wind and Im having trouble with the console that contains
>the clock , 8 track, etc. Specifically, the thermometer. Any helpful tips
>wuold be appreciated. Also have two large 12 volt batts from a wind
>generator. Would like to travel them in the tow vehicle ,and charge them
>while driving. Is this possible ? Whot about wiring?
Thanks
sean Doran
St Johns
Newfoundland
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:34:36 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] DC power lines (was VAL Digest V1 #179)
MEANINGLESS subject line changed...
On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 07:25:14 -0600, "Lee Pierce" <leefrankpierce@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
wrote:
> Do be
>aware that for DC power, length and gage of wire will equal voltage drop
>and power loss, so keep the wires short and fat. I would suggest using
>house wiring like "Romex" in at least 10 gage
I think that if you will go into the archives of this list and its predecessor,
you will find that 10 ga wire is far too small. go look at a battery cable, let
that dimension be your guide. iow, you should be looking at 4 ga to single
ought if you are carrying over any distance at all.
best of all, there are books available on the subject of 12vdc wiring, etc in
RVs.
fwiw
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton, chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 11:19:24 -0500
From: "Richard Atherley" <safehome4u@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] My New Airstream
Thanks for the warm welcome to all that responded! Since this is my first
Airstream, my plan is to go through all of the systems to make sure
everything is in working order. But, I have been wondering about
deodorizing/sanitizing the holding tanks. There seems to be an abundance of
products on the market. Anyone recommend one for a "newbie"?? Thanks! Feel
free to email me directly or post.
Richard
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 10:19:06 -0600
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] battery placement
Greetings Dan!
After reading the responses to your post and re-reading your post, I had
a thought that might be workable. Since you aren't going to be carrying
the twin LP tanks on the tongue, it should be possible to have a
competent welder construct a rack that could accommodate four deep-cycle
batteries in the space normally occupied by the LP tanks. This
arrangement should only be marginally heavier than two 30 pound LP tanks
when full. This would allow you to achieve your goal of four batteries
while eliminating the rear-mounted battery that tends to take quite a
beating (I had my rear-mounted battery moved forward in my Overlander as
it seemed like it never lasted more than two seasons in that location).
You would still need the heavy cable to link the front mounted batteries
to the rear-mounted 12-volt supply.
While the fumes from LP appliances don't cause me problems, I do not
like LP appliances so have equipped my Overlander to minimize their use.
I have three GEL Cell deep-cycle batteries (purchased from AJL Solar)
that serve the coach along with two 75-Watt and once 50-Watt solar
panels as well as the charge control device recommended by AJL Solar.
When off-grid, I always run my Dometic 3-Way RV Refrigerator on 12-volt;
and when in a campground I switch to 120-Volt AC. My goals were a bit
different from yours, so I do have the other typical LP appliances that
are used sparingly when needed.
Generally, I have been quite well-satisfied with the set-up installed by
AJL Solar. I have never fully-depleted the battery bank even when
off-grid for as many as three nights. This included running my 9"
television and satellite system for approximately 6 hours each day as
well as the refrigerator and Fantastic Vents (2) on 12-volt.
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Childress
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 10:46 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] battery placement
>Joe, Daisy, Michelle, Dr G. & Others.
Thanks for all your information. My caravel has one battery in the
rear at present. Thought that one additional should not create a
problem, as we do not plan to carry much in the black water tank.
Also most of the time we will be parked at a modern park and will use
their power. I am looking to be as independent as possible. Dr. G.
do you think that the additional battery in the rear will create a
problem? I understand that all batteries should be the same in size,
brand, and age. Maybe a ice chest would work for the refridg. We do
have a Siberian Husky. Sorry about the snow. I found a electric
blanket that pulls less that 100 watts. Set on low it will take off
the first chill. We are looking for the best possible housing. We
have problems in hotels, ect. due to the smoking and cleaning
products that they use. Anyone else have any suggestions.
Dan
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 10:36:27 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #179
The best way to charge the extra batteries in the tow vehicle is through
the wires for the trailer battery charging in the tow package. That
circuit will be isolated so you don't burn up the wiring trying to use
energy from the extra batteries while starting and you can run them down
without running down the starting battery.
If you don't have a towing package, you need one. The charging part in
modern trucks is a separate circuit through a relay that is energized
only when the engine is running. Otherwise there is a dual diode
isolator that connects between the alternator output and the regular
charging system with another terminal for the extra batteries that
allows both the charge but prevents starting with the extra batteries
and prevents the loads on the extra batteries from running the starting
battery down.
A good way to operate the relay type is with an oil pressure operated
switch that closes when there is engine oil pressure. But in my '98
F-150 the best I can detect is that the trailer battery charging relay
is closed when the ignition switch is in the run position.
Wiring needs to be capable of handling at least 30 amps, but charging
will be faster if the wire size is larger to minimize voltage drop,
probably at least #6 stranded copper.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 10:44:40 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] battery placement
On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 10:19:06 -0600, Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
wrote:
>
>You would still need the heavy cable to link the front mounted batteries
>to the rear-mounted 12-volt supply.
you need to figure out how much/many 12vdc/app;iances/outlets you use and then
consider simply moving your inverter/converter forward with the batteries. you
can then run Romex back to the breaker box for the 110vac or, consider going all
110vac and buy a 2kw inverter to give you lots of 110 for your fridge,
microwave, fluorescent lighting, etc.
otoh, if you are primarily using 12vdc, then you want to leave the Unitrol back
next to the breaker panel.
There WAS a reason why AS decided to move the batteries and unitrol up front -
and you guys with the mid 60s trailers have figured it out<G>.
Road vibration is part of it but also, it is a bit harder to keep it all dry
when you have a sink and tub/shower, etc on top of it all. still, even the 70s
have the breaker panel in the back - I have NO idea where that panel is in later
trailers.
fwiw
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton, chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
- ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 13:55:20 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] My New Airstream
Richard
Get the Thetford deodorizers. You can find them most RV parts stores and at
Wal-Mart in the auto area.
Get the liquid so it doesn't lump up. Also make sure there is some water in
the tank before pouring it in.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: XISHJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYCGPKYLEJG
But, I have been wondering about
deodorizing/sanitizing the holding tanks. There seems to be an abundance of
products on the market. Anyone recommend one for a "newbie"?? Thanks! Feel
free to email me directly or post.
Richard
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 11:09:17 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] My New Airstream
Richard,
I've also had fantastic success with ODORLOS enzyme head treatment.
It's perfectly nature friendly, very affordable (try the nearest West Marine
or RV store) and renders the entire system 100% odor free. It contains no
masking perfumes, alcohol or formaldehyde.
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel
Santa Monica CA
> From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 13:55:20 -0500
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] My New Airstream
>
> Richard
> Get the Thetford deodorizers. You can find them most RV parts stores and at
> Wal-Mart in the auto area.
> Get the liquid so it doesn't lump up. Also make sure there is some water in
> the tank before pouring it in.
>
> Bobby
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: XISHJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEMSFDULHPQQWOYIYZUNNYCGPKYLEJG
> But, I have been wondering about
> deodorizing/sanitizing the holding tanks. There seems to be an abundance of
> products on the market. Anyone recommend one for a "newbie"?? Thanks! Feel
> free to email me directly or post.
>
> Richard
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 19:43:15 GMT
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #179 - Add batteries?
8 gage wire is fine. These are not starting batteries. For that matter modern cars,
even my van with 350 engine, have only 6 gage wires from the battery to the starter.
Rear mount batteries would be wired directly to the converter-charger, not straight
to the front batteries. The rear batteries would be wired in parallel with the fronts,
at the converter.
For the electric blankets, if they are 120V you will have to have an inverter. Why
not use 12V bed warmers? Solar electric suppliers carry them. I suggest turning them
off before going to sleep. Just use them to warm the bed up.
Al
- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 8:58 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re:battery placement
> I am in the process of adding additional batteries to my 69 caravel. I have room
> on the tongue for two and would like to have two more. Is there a problem with having
> two in the back and two in the front?? I understand that it would take a very heavy
> wire to connect them.
> Dan
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 15:07:46 -0500
From: gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Inland RV
Andy doesn't post any more to the VAC, guess he was tired of getting slammed
by others.
But like Daisy said "he sure knows these trailers"
Bobby
1973 Ambassador (like Daisy's)
Valdosta, GA
----- Original Message -----
Wrom: KPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSKVFVWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADR
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Inland RV
On Inland, like it or not there is a ton of stuff that you can only get
there, Andy is the only person who has stepped up to the plate and
continues to make and stock hard to find parts. As has costs for this he
must pass along.
I dunno about his service, he sures knows these trailers.
In defense of non Airstream RV repairs: those of you who are lucky
enough to live close to the great gods of AS repair like Walt and
others, good for you. the rest of us have to make do. My local AS dealer
actually laughed at me for asking to order parts for my '73, so I
found a great outfit in Fitchburg MA, Dufours RV. The service guys love
that trailer and my money and always do a great job. Most of the guts of
an AS are the same as all other RV's. I haven't needed structural or
skin repairs yet. For the skin I would find an airplane repair guy and
for structural a horse trailer guy. If I bring my trailer in with
evidence of carelessness in her care and feeding, I get a good talking
to. MAny folks who really know RVs appreciate AS and are pleased to work
on a quality product, instead of putting bandaids on a rapidly
decomposing SOB. Of course, they'd rather sell you one, that's where the
$$$$ is for these guys.
Daisy
gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> Never met them as I live in Georgia.
> I have ordered a few things from them and Andy seems pretty decent to me,
> though from reading others comments, I guess I've been lucky.
> I'd say call a few places and compare prices. Then go for it.
> I'd think you'd get good work done but price may be high unless you
haggle.
> I take my trailer to Walt's RV in Ocala Florida, and I would not take to
some
> yahoo that doesn't know squat about an Airstream other than "Oh, one of
those
> silver ones? They are cool."
>
> Bobby
> Valdosta, GA
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: STTZRCLBDXRQBGJSNBOHMKHJYFMYXOEAIJJPHSCRTNHGSWZ
>
>
> Greetings,
> I'm considering having a little appliance work done at Inland and was
> wondering if anybody out there might have an experience/recommendation
> they'd like to share. Feel free to contact me off list if you'd prefer.
> Thanks in advance,
> Wyn
> Reno
> 65 Globe Trotter
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 14:34:26 -0600
From: Daniel Childress <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] DC power lines (was VAL Digest V1 #179)
>I agree that a OO or at least a 2 to 4 cable should be used. dc
>seems to lose voltage quickly .
Dan
>.
>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 14:47:49 -0600
From: Daniel Childress <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] battery placement
>Kevin D. Allen
I have placed the spare on the tongue of the caravel. I
turned the electric jack sideways and placed the spare as far forward
as possible an still get the tire cover on it. I then had a platform
made to carry at least two batteries. My original thoughts were to
mount two 6 volt batteries in this area. I may also make a rack and
mount additional batteries or a new univolt charger ( enclosed).
This would open up the back for jacks, water hose, ect., Weight
should not be a issue with this equipment.
Dan
>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 13:50:28 -0800
From: "John Wilson" <katyree@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter
Thanks for the response-sound like origianl Globetrotter did not have a gray
water tank.
May go back to original with advice given.
Does anyone know of a good source for a rock guard for a 72 Globetrotter?
Thanks
John Wilson
>
_________________________________________________________________
Create a Job Alert on MSN Careers and enter for a chance to win $1000!
http://msn.careerbuilder.com/promo/kaday.htm?siteid=CBMSN_1K&sc_extcmp=JS_JASweep_MSNHotm2
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 18:39:40 -0600
From: Daniel Childress <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter
I ordered my first and second rock guard from inland rv. Now the
rest of the story. First one was shipped by airborne, Don't know how
but they put a Ninthy degree bend in it on the right end. Second
also was shipped by airborne. Changed ends put ninty in the left
end. Both were insured. However, I had to keep the boxes and they
said that it would take 30 to 45 days before they would be able to
get an insurance inspecter out to look at the damage. I was out over
$900.00 and still no rock guard. Airstream said that the corner
windows in my 69 caravel were priced at $700.00 each and they are
special order. So My WIFE would not let me take it out until I got
a new rock guard. After several calls to Airstream and Inland I was
able to make a deal with Airstream in Ohio to pick up a rock guard at
the factory. I believe the rock guard on my caravel will fit your
globetrotter. Check it out on inland's web site. Its about $450.00
including shipping and insurance. However if you are close to the
factory, I would suggest picking it up. Inland has an agreement with
the factory to sell the rock guard for the older airstreams. Beg,
Beg. Beg to let you pick it up. Do not let Airborne ship it. I got
most of my money back except I paid them about $100.00 for insurance
that was not recovered. Easy to install. Just take your time. It
helps to have a helper to hold during installation.
Dan
14148
>Thanks for the response-sound like origianl Globetrotter did not
>have a gray water tank.
>May go back to original with advice given.
>Does anyone know of a good source for a rock guard for a 72 Globetrotter?
>Thanks
>John Wilson
>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Create a Job Alert on MSN Careers and enter for a chance to win
>$1000!
>http://msn.careerbuilder.com/promo/kaday.htm?siteid=CBMSN_1K&sc_extcmp=JS_JASweep_MSNHotm2
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 19:56:50 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter
If you mean the "sunglasses" that protect those expensive curved
windows, an airstream dealer can get them for you, some will do mail
order, It's in one piece and pretty big, tho.
If you mean the aluminum ones on the lower corners, probably the same
too. If you come to one of the bigger rallies, you can have it done
right there.
Daisy
John Wilson wrote:
> Thanks for the response-sound like origianl Globetrotter did not have a
> gray water tank.
> May go back to original with advice given.
> Does anyone know of a good source for a rock guard for a 72 Globetrotter?
> Thanks
> John Wilson
>
>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Create a Job Alert on MSN Careers and enter for a chance to win $1000!
> http://msn.careerbuilder.com/promo/kaday.htm?siteid=CBMSN_1K&sc_extcmp=JS_JASweep_MSNHotm2
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 17:31:36 -0800
From: Rob Super <robsuper@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Phone connector basics?
As part of reworking our '73 Safari I want to install telephone wiring,
and it should include an interface on the exterior skin in order to
connect to whatever is provided by RV parks. Having never yet used a
site that provided phone service my question is: what kind of
connection (plug or socket) do parks typically supply and what should I
install to connect to them? A bit of searching turns up the fact that
there are "RV telephone inlet" receptacles that look rather like
standard 120v. plugs and sockets. (But with a third pin/hole, round,
dead center.) These are quite different from the garden-variety modular
phone plugs/jacks that I had expected. So: would you install:
Standard modular (and: male or female?), or
"RV" style (and: male or female?), or
both?
If the answer involves one of the "RV" fittings--either on the trailer
or at the park's pedestal--then what kind of adapter (again including
the gender issue) is standard?\
TIA,
Rob
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 20:20:04 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Phone connector basics?
I'd install 6 pin modular female. Hook your phone to the red an green
wires. Then I'd use a common double ended modular cable to fit a modular
in the park, or look for an adapter on the spot. Anything but modular in
the USA is very uncommon.
The RV telephone inlet connectors I found searching on that string are
made for boats and are a small three circuit twist lock made of
corrosion resistant material. And outrageously expensive.
The low cost of the modular connector hides the fact that it has gold
plated bronze components that are also corrosion resistant. Those parts
are small to keep the cost down and replacement easy.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 21:34:16 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Inland RV
Yes, the fact that Andy doesn't share his knowledge because he got slammed
by some is our LOSS. No one should have to put up with being slammed
whether anyone agrees with their opinion or not. I miss the guy.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Inland RV
> Andy doesn't post any more to the VAC, guess he was tired of getting
slammed
> by others.
> But like Daisy said "he sure knows these trailers"
>
> Bobby
> 1973 Ambassador (like Daisy's)
> Valdosta, GA
> ----- Original Message -----
> Wrom: KPNKMBIPBARHDMNNSKVFVWRKJVZCMHVIBGDADR
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 8:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Inland RV
>
>
> On Inland, like it or not there is a ton of stuff that you can only get
> there, Andy is the only person who has stepped up to the plate and
> continues to make and stock hard to find parts. As has costs for this he
> must pass along.
>
> I dunno about his service, he sures knows these trailers.
>
> In defense of non Airstream RV repairs: those of you who are lucky
> enough to live close to the great gods of AS repair like Walt and
> others, good for you. the rest of us have to make do. My local AS dealer
> actually laughed at me for asking to order parts for my '73, so I
> found a great outfit in Fitchburg MA, Dufours RV. The service guys love
> that trailer and my money and always do a great job. Most of the guts of
> an AS are the same as all other RV's. I haven't needed structural or
> skin repairs yet. For the skin I would find an airplane repair guy and
> for structural a horse trailer guy. If I bring my trailer in with
> evidence of carelessness in her care and feeding, I get a good talking
> to. MAny folks who really know RVs appreciate AS and are pleased to work
> on a quality product, instead of putting bandaids on a rapidly
> decomposing SOB. Of course, they'd rather sell you one, that's where the
> $$$$ is for these guys.
>
> Daisy
>
> gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com<mailto:gillguy@xxxxxxxxxx.com> wrote:
> > Never met them as I live in Georgia.
> > I have ordered a few things from them and Andy seems pretty decent to
me,
> > though from reading others comments, I guess I've been lucky.
> > I'd say call a few places and compare prices. Then go for it.
> > I'd think you'd get good work done but price may be high unless you
> haggle.
> > I take my trailer to Walt's RV in Ocala Florida, and I would not take
to
> some
> > yahoo that doesn't know squat about an Airstream other than "Oh, one
of
> those
> > silver ones? They are cool."
> >
> > Bobby
> > Valdosta, GA
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > Wrom: STTZRCLBDXRQBGJSNBOHMKHJYFMYXOEAIJJPHSCRTNHGSWZ
> >
> >
> > Greetings,
> > I'm considering having a little appliance work done at Inland and
was
> > wondering if anybody out there might have an
experience/recommendation
> > they'd like to share. Feel free to contact me off list if you'd
prefer.
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Wyn
> > Reno
> > 65 Globe Trotter
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original
text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >
>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html<http://www.tompatterso
> n.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>
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> son.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 19:53:11 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <timshephard@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Phone connector basics?
Rob.
The places I stayed at simply had standard RJ11 phone connections on the
power posts. Just like the ones in your house. So all you need is a long
enough telephone cable to reach you trailer.
I added an outside phone and cable tv connection to my '71 Safari. You can
get these outlets at a store like Home Depot. The phone and cable jack are
seperate and snap into the holes of the standard outlet shaped cover. This
is important so you can get a weather proof cover for it.
You can see the pics of mine here.
Outside connection.
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/as_phone_jack.jpg
Inside:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/as_phone_jack_inside.jpg
Good luck!
- -Tim
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Super" <robsuper@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 5:31 PM
Subject: [VAL] Phone connector basics?
> As part of reworking our '73 Safari I want to install telephone wiring,
> and it should include an interface on the exterior skin in order to
> connect to whatever is provided by RV parks. Having never yet used a
> site that provided phone service my question is: what kind of
> connection (plug or socket) do parks typically supply and what should I
> install to connect to them? A bit of searching turns up the fact that
> there are "RV telephone inlet" receptacles that look rather like
> standard 120v. plugs and sockets. (But with a third pin/hole, round,
> dead center.) These are quite different from the garden-variety modular
> phone plugs/jacks that I had expected. So: would you install:
>
> Standard modular (and: male or female?), or
>
> "RV" style (and: male or female?), or
>
> both?
>
> If the answer involves one of the "RV" fittings--either on the trailer
> or at the park's pedestal--then what kind of adapter (again including
> the gender issue) is standard?\
>
> TIA,
>
> Rob
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:40:54 -0600
From: Chris Koehn <timberguides@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Airstream coffee
I'll be back through Milwaukee in a week (on my way home) and will snap
a picture of the Airstream coffee shop to post for y'all.
Best,
Chris
------------------------------
End of VAL Digest V1 #180
*************************
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