The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #177
VAL Digest Thursday, March 4 2004 Volume 01 : Number 177
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Battery voltage
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Re: [VAL] Re: Hitch Stabilizer Bars on Reese
Re: [VAL] Re: Hitch Stabilizer Bars on Reese
[VAL] Re: SOB Repair
Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
[VAL] 72 Globetrotter Repairs
[VAL] a leak!!
Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
[VAL] this sounds like fun
RE: [VAL] a leak!!
Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
[VAL] Sighting
Re: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter Repairs
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 00:35:29 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
A while back Dr J recommended Kano "Kroil" penetrating fluid. I live in
Nashville where Kano Labs, manufacturer of "Kroil," is located. It is
$8.50 for an aerosol can, plus shipping. I bought a can of "AeroKroil,"
which was represented to me as being the "regular" "Kroil."
It is not available retail except at the factory as the company promotes
"Kroil" only to industrial clients.
There are other specialized "Kroils" such as silicone.
If Kano will not sell and ship a single can I might be persuaded to get a
case if there were enough of you interested to take most of a case. Does
Dr J think it is enough better than the usual retail penetrants (WD40,
Liquid Wrench, etc.) to be worth the trouble?
I have passed Kano Labs many, many times over the last 46 years and never
before knew what they made. I was usually more interested in the
"DariDelite" across the street.
Al
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 00:47:45 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Battery voltage
Storage batteries are nothing to be careless with!
I once had an old 6V car battery from a MGA that was shot. It sat around
for years. Once I thought I would just see if it had any voltage left. It
registered over 12V on my high sensitivity (1000W/volt) meter. Yet the
slightest load dropped the voltage to a fraction of a volt. Years later I
accidentally dropped a piece of nickel silver model train rail, which
fell onto the battery and ended up across the posts. The rail lit up
bright orange for a fraction of a second and, melting, fell through the
tar top of the battery, setting the tar on fire.
Al
> ------------------------------
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical
Problem
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> ...a battery can register voltage, but not have sufficient amps to run
anything.
....................................
> Joy
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 03:42:01 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
There is no comparison between WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. and Kroil from
Kano Labs.
Kroil is a creeping *oil*, it will eat rust crystals, it will creep into
spaces as tight as 1/1,000,000 th of an inch.
There is no equal to Kroil.
WD-40 disperses water, it is not a lubricant. Liquid Wrench may be on a par
with kerosene or some other light lubricant, if it's even a lubricant at
all.
Are you saying that you need to be an industrial customer to buy from Kano
Labs? I've bought gallons of their products, spray cans, etc and I'm no
industrial customer. Have things changed with them?
If you buy their products it will most likely have to be trucked to you -
lots of stuff can't be shipped by air these days.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 1:35 AM
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
> A while back Dr J recommended Kano "Kroil" penetrating fluid. I live in
> Nashville where Kano Labs, manufacturer of "Kroil," is located. It is
> $8.50 for an aerosol can, plus shipping. I bought a can of "AeroKroil,"
> which was represented to me as being the "regular" "Kroil."
> It is not available retail except at the factory as the company promotes
> "Kroil" only to industrial clients.
> There are other specialized "Kroils" such as silicone.
>
> If Kano will not sell and ship a single can I might be persuaded to get a
> case if there were enough of you interested to take most of a case. Does
> Dr J think it is enough better than the usual retail penetrants (WD40,
> Liquid Wrench, etc.) to be worth the trouble?
>
> I have passed Kano Labs many, many times over the last 46 years and never
> before knew what they made. I was usually more interested in the
> "DariDelite" across the street.
> Al
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 07:54:37 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Hello Joy,
The InteliPower/Charge Wizard is putting out 60 amps at 12.7V so I don't
think that is the problem. It's some where in the wiring, fuse, circuit
breakers, grounding I think. It's making me crazy.
Getting about time for CAS isn't it? "Go slow quickly."
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
SASS 6449
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
> Hi Jim,
>
> Did you check the battery with a load tester? I got one from Harbor
Freight
> for about $29 bucks or something like that. Not that it's your problem,
> but a battery can register voltage, but not have sufficient amps to run
> anything. If you check the voltage, you should see 13.6 volts or higher
and
> not 12 volts? Not that I know anything, just a thought. When things set
> over winter, it's usual for something to go wrong - Murphy's law - if it
> can, it will. I need my tongue jack, but it doesn't work - all interior
DC
> stuff works OK, but I haven't checked the fuses yet.
>
> Too busy with reloading and CAS. :)
>
> '69 Safari, Joy
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > I'm still struggling with a 12v electrical problem in my 1968 Tradewind.
> I'm
> > getting 12V through the battery fuses to the trailer wiring and I'm
> getting
> > 12V to the control panel above the fridge but nothing in the trailer
that
> > runs on 12 volts works. Not the lights, not the water pump, not the
> > electronic ignition water heater or electronic ignition to the fridge,
> etc.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 07:58:33 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Thanks, Michelle. I think it's probably something simple that I'm
overlooking. How can every thing quit working at once? Very strange.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "michelle" <safoocat@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
> Hi Jim,
>
> Since you have a vom (volt ohm meter) measure the voltage at the light or
> appliance that isn't working and see if
> you have 12v. If you have voltage then the ground must not be good so
> disconnect the power and use your ohm
> meter to see if the bulb socket is grounded. Once you get 12v at the
socket
> and a ground then it should work.
> hope that helps.
>
> michelle
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 08:05:11 -0600
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <kallen@xxxxxxxxxx.k12.il.us>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Hitch Stabilizer Bars on Reese
Greetings Dan!
Your '69 Caravel probably has similar hitch weight and just a bit more Gross
Weight than my '78 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre. When fully loaded for an
extended vacation, my Minuet tips the scales at 3,100 pounds with a hitch
weight of 550 pounds. Since I use a Reese Straight-Line Hitch with Dual Cam
Sway Control, having wight distributing bars that are very close to the
actual hitch load makes a positive difference in the coach's road manners.
When towing with the Suburban, I use 500 pound bars, but when towing with
the softly sprung Cadillac, I utilize 750 pound bars to compensate for its
soft springs. If you are towing with truck-based vehicle, you will likely
find that the lighter 500 pound bars will be a better match for your
Caravel - - if you happen to be towing with a car, you might find the 750
pound bars a satisfactory match.
Good luck in resolving your hitch quandry!
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.10
Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter
V8/2.70 Final Drive)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:10 PM
Subject: [VAL] Re: Hitch Stabilizer Bars on Reese
> Have a 1969 Caravel. the bars state they are for 750 lbs. Airstream
> says that the tongue weight is 390. Do I have the correct size?
> What happens if they are too large?
> Dan 14148
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 08:04:23 -0600
From: Dean <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Hitch Stabilizer Bars on Reese
390 pounds sounds light... better put it on the scale
I have a 1970 27 ft and the 750 size works well..
See You On the Road
Dean & Kay
WBCCI 2486
IOWA
On Mar 2, 2004, at 9:10 PM, Daniel Childress wrote:
> Have a 1969 Caravel. the bars state they are for 750 lbs. Airstream
> says that the tongue weight is 390. Do I have the correct size? What
> happens if they are too large?
> Dan 14148
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 09:34:32 -0500
From: praimond@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: [VAL] Re: SOB Repair
What a great response Jim!!!!!!! So true!
Patti
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:30:45 -0600
From: "Dean L." <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
See You On The Road
Dean L.
WBCCI 2486
On Mar 3, 2004, at 6:54 AM, Jim Greene wrote:
> Hello Joy,
>
> The InteliPower/Charge Wizard is putting out 60 amps at 12.7V so I
> don't
> think that is the problem. It's some where in the wiring, fuse, circuit
> breakers, grounding I think. It's making me crazy.
>
>
60 AMPS ??? What is using that Much power ?
That is a Lot of power.
That is 762 watts of power and that makes a Lot of heat.
Lights only take 1-3 amps, a refrigerator running on 12V
will only take 10-15 amps. Your furnace takes about 3-5 amps.
Sounds like you have a problem.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 08:57:44 -0700
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
Tom,
Are there precautions one should take when using this oil? That is, is it
also capable of penetrating through skin, or from being absorbed? Maybe that
is why it is'nt offered as a retail product?
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:14:03 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
Kano offers two cans of AeroKroil for the price of one to new customers
on their web page.
Compared to Kroil, WD40 and Liquid Wrench are perfume water. Water
Displacer #40 and Liquid Wrench have practically no effect on rusty
parts, Kroil gets them apart.
In in trial, I had good results with P.B. Blaster and correspondents on
tractor restoration lists report it works nearly as well as Kroil, but
I'm not yet convinced.
Every industrial equipment store has their own favorite brand of
penetrating oil. I've not found any to match with Kroil other than P.B.
Blaster and I still think Kroil is the better of that pair.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:25:21 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
I've not detected any problems of skin penetration. Go to
www.kanolabs.com and check the MSDS.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:25:34 -0800
From: "John Wilson" <katyree@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter Repairs
Looking for a gray water tank for a 1972 globetrotter and also the lower
front trip that wraps the front of the trailor.
any suggestions?
Thanks
John Wilson
_________________________________________________________________
Fast. Reliable. Get MSN 9 Dial-up - 3 months for the price of 1!
(Limited-time Offer) http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 05:26:27 +0900 (JST)
From: fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp
Subject: [VAL] a leak!!
Oh no! Took my 78 SS for first camping trip after gettign all lights, switches, etc. to
work, and now I think I have a bad leak.
After falsely accusing my father's dog of peeing on a box in the rear bathroom, we discoverd
the floor to be very wet between the toilet and sink, but not under either, and not under
the vent??
Before tearing up carpet, taking off floor flange, does anyone have any ideas?
Also, when pump on hot water spurted in kitchen a lot.
Jeff
P.S> I bought original Thin Light units to replace bad one (for $70 a pop). Anywhere cheaper?
Thanks in advance to all.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 15:46:49 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Well, I think you need to do a check of all your water lines.
You may indeed have a leak, or leaks from the sound of it.
Do you have copper water lines? If they have frozen in the past they might
have stretched the copper tubing so thin a hairline crack in more than one
place.
Copper lines also can be affected by hard water deposits which build up on
the inside of the tubing. If you've ever cleaned out the screens on your
faucets and found bits of small grit - that's usually from hard water;
calcium, etc. in the water.
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Cc: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 3:26 PM
Subject: [VAL] a leak!!
> Oh no! Took my 78 SS for first camping trip after gettign all lights,
switches, etc. to work, and now I think I have a bad leak.
>
> After falsely accusing my father's dog of peeing on a box in the rear
bathroom, we discoverd the floor to be very wet between the toilet and sink,
but not under either, and not under the vent??
>
> Before tearing up carpet, taking off floor flange, does anyone have any
ideas?
>
> Also, when pump on hot water spurted in kitchen a lot.
>
> Jeff
>
> P.S> I bought original Thin Light units to replace bad one (for $70 a
pop). Anywhere cheaper?
>
> Thanks in advance to all.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 16:34:31 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
All the major airlines use Kroil. If there was any danger involved using
this product I doubt they'd all open themselves up to lawsuits.
They use Kroil because - it works, and it works very well.
I had some pieces of steel 'welded' together by rust - a large nut and bolt
on a boat used in salt water. Nothing, I mean nothing, would break that
bond those pieces had welded themselves into. That was before those pieces
met Kroil! ;) Prior to using Kroil I had tried my largest air ratchet
wrench like is used at garages to remove tires from autos - parts didn't
even budge. I sprayed on the Kroil one morning and let it sit for a day.
Next morning I used the same air ratchet and a mere socket wrench to bust it
loose. I could have almost done it by hand!
Kroil *eats* rust crystals and it does what it's advertised to do. What
more can I say? It's a great product and I wish it was I who had the patent
on it! ;)
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
> Tom,
>
> Are there precautions one should take when using this oil? That is, is it
> also capable of penetrating through skin, or from being absorbed? Maybe
that
> is why it is'nt offered as a retail product?
>
> Forrest
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 14:57:02 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Sounds to me like your toilet seal is leaking - can you tell if coming from
the bottom of the toilet? Those seals are pretty easy to replace - once
you get the toilet off
Ken J.
At 05:26 AM 03/04/04 +0900, you wrote:
>Oh no! Took my 78 SS for first camping trip after gettign all lights,
>switches, etc. to work, and now I think I have a bad leak.
>
>After falsely accusing my father's dog of peeing on a box in the rear
>bathroom, we discoverd the floor to be very wet between the toilet and
>sink, but not under either, and not under the vent??
>
>Before tearing up carpet, taking off floor flange, does anyone have any ideas?
>
>Also, when pump on hot water spurted in kitchen a lot.
>
>Jeff
>
>P.S> I bought original Thin Light units to replace bad one (for $70 a
>pop). Anywhere cheaper?
>
>Thanks in advance to all.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 17:09:47 -0500
From: Blair <hitek_airstream@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] a leak!!
Also check the water line valve behind the toilet and it's connections.
It always seems that any leak I've had is always in the hardest to reach
places. :>)
Blair
At 02:57 PM 3/3/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Sounds to me like your toilet seal is leaking - can you tell if coming
>from the bottom of the toilet? Those seals are pretty easy to replace -
>once you get the toilet off
>
>
>Ken J.
>
>At 05:26 AM 03/04/04 +0900, you wrote:
>>Oh no! Took my 78 SS for first camping trip after gettign all lights,
>>switches, etc. to work, and now I think I have a bad leak.
>>
>>After falsely accusing my father's dog of peeing on a box in the rear
>>bathroom, we discoverd the floor to be very wet between the toilet and
>>sink, but not under either, and not under the vent??
>>
>>Before tearing up carpet, taking off floor flange, does anyone have any
>>ideas?
>>
>>Also, when pump on hot water spurted in kitchen a lot.
>>
>>Jeff
>>
>>P.S> I bought original Thin Light units to replace bad one (for $70 a
>>pop). Anywhere cheaper?
>>
>>Thanks in advance to all.
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 17:10:19 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] a leak!!
And the hot water line leak?
Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] a leak!!
> Sounds to me like your toilet seal is leaking - can you tell if coming
from
> the bottom of the toilet? Those seals are pretty easy to replace - once
> you get the toilet off
>
>
> Ken J.
>
> At 05:26 AM 03/04/04 +0900, you wrote:
> >Oh no! Took my 78 SS for first camping trip after gettign all lights,
> >switches, etc. to work, and now I think I have a bad leak.
> >
> >After falsely accusing my father's dog of peeing on a box in the rear
> >bathroom, we discoverd the floor to be very wet between the toilet and
> >sink, but not under either, and not under the vent??
> >
> >Before tearing up carpet, taking off floor flange, does anyone have any
ideas?
> >
> >Also, when pump on hot water spurted in kitchen a lot.
> >
> >Jeff
> >
> >P.S> I bought original Thin Light units to replace bad one (for $70 a
> >pop). Anywhere cheaper?
> >
> >Thanks in advance to all.
> >
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> >When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 17:10:51 -0500
From: Pete Highlands <satdjpete@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
Forrest,
While I agree with Tom on the usage and the fact that the product works,
Pay attention to what Dr G says Read the MSDS any time there is a
question an a product if you are still not satisfied look for the New
Jersey fact sheets .
Its always good to have these papers on hand anyhow in case of an
emergency they also give you the first aid if needed.
Pete VAC WBCII n3rlj
>Tom
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Forrest" <forrest@xxxxxxxxxx.org>
>To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 10:57 AM
>Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #176 - Kano "Kroil"
>
>
>
>
>>Tom,
>>
>>Are there precautions one should take when using this oil? That is, is it
>>also capable of penetrating through skin, or from being absorbed? Maybe
>>
>>
>that
>
>
>>is why it is'nt offered as a retail product?
>>
>>Forrest
>>
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>>
>>
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 17:20:26 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Jim,
What is involved in installing the IteliPower/Charge Wizard? I've got an
original converter in our 1995 Classic that I'm thinking of replacing due to
the fact that you can't leave it plugged in all the time - the owner's
manual warns about doing that due to electrolyte evaporation, etc.
I am going to purchase and install the new type of Optima deep cycle
batteries, I need two of them in our 34' Classic. From my reading the only
difference between the Yellow tops and the Blue tops is this; the Blue top
Optima deep cycle has a stainless steel threaded rod to attach things like a
trolling motor for a boat, etc. The Yellow tops will work fine for me.
As for the InteliPower/Charge Wiz I think I will opt for the largest
amperage output I can - just because. I never know when I will need that
extra boost of power on this trailer that we plan to keep for a very long
time. Our model is the Front Kitchen style which we just love.
Thanks in advance to Jim or anyone else who feels like filling in the
details for me here.
Tom
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> The InteliPower/Charge Wizard is putting out 60 amps at 12.7V so I don't
> think that is the problem.
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
> SASS 6449
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 17:25:49 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] this sounds like fun
http://www.azcentral.com/arizonarepublic/news/articles/0222snowbirds-quartzsi
te1.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 15:47:21 -0600
From: "William Durkee" <bdkli@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: RE: [VAL] a leak!!
From: fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp
Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
CC: sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] a leak!!
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 05:26:27 +0900 (JST)
Oh no! Took my 78 SS for first camping trip after gettign all lights,
switches, etc. to work, and now I think I have a bad leak...
Jeff
Jeff,
Is the hotwater heater anywhere near the leak? Mine started leaking this
last year but it is 9 years older than yours. Floor was wet near the
toilet. After a day or so I noticed water dripping outside.
Bill Durkee
69 Sovereign
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 14:51:32 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] a leak!!
> Sounds to me like your toilet seal is leaking - can you tell if coming
from
> the bottom of the toilet? Those seals are pretty easy to replace - once
> you get the toilet off
>
>
> Ken J.
Another place to check is kind-of tricky.
Commonly overlooked is the spot where the water supply enters to the back of
the toilet. Mine, for instance, has a shutoff valve at the end of the
copper supply line. Connected to that is a short loop of plastic tube that
connects to a vacuum breaker valve assembly built into the back of the
toilet. Out of sight...out of mind. Hard to drain. If this freezes (mine
did) it will pop the valve assembly apart and a leak will appear from back
there where you can't see it. You should be able to hear it and see water
on the floor. You then have to remove the toilet and replace the valve
assembly with a new one. At least....I did.
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 16:52:13 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] a leak!!
> > >Also, when pump on hot water spurted in kitchen a lot.
> > >
> > >Jeff
Sounds like water hammer or slug flow from the air being forced out of the
water heater. The kitchen sink is probably the highest point in the system.
Mine hammers like h... if I'm not VERY careful while filling the water
system. This hammering can actually cause thin wall sections of pipe, where
it has been rubbing against other pipe or objects, to fail. Any weak spot
in the system actually. If it starts hammering, you should shut off the
faucet and reopen it very slightly to let the air out slowly. If it tries
to hammer again, close it and start over. Sometimes it takes a few minutes
or more until you get a solid flow.
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 20:07:06 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Dean, I didn't say I used 60 amps. That's what the Intelipower can deliver.
A coach battery can deliver over 500 amps as I recall.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean L." <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
> See You On The Road
> Dean L.
> WBCCI 2486
>
>
>
> On Mar 3, 2004, at 6:54 AM, Jim Greene wrote:
>
> > Hello Joy,
> >
> > The InteliPower/Charge Wizard is putting out 60 amps at 12.7V so I
> > don't
> > think that is the problem. It's some where in the wiring, fuse, circuit
> > breakers, grounding I think. It's making me crazy.
> >
> >
> 60 AMPS ??? What is using that Much power ?
> That is a Lot of power.
> That is 762 watts of power and that makes a Lot of heat.
> Lights only take 1-3 amps, a refrigerator running on 12V
> will only take 10-15 amps. Your furnace takes about 3-5 amps.
> Sounds like you have a problem.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 20:57:55 -0500
From: "Tom" <tmeeker@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Call All Late 80s Airstream Owners -- Electrical Problem
Our house batteries are each 600 Cold Cranking Amps or 750 Cranking Amps
max. Times (x) 2 that's a lot of capacity.
Is your Inteli-Power the unit that puts out 60 amps, Jim? Do they make
others that have more capacity, more amperage, that are still able to use
the Charge Wizard? I thought I read somewhere that you needed to use
certain Inteli-Power units specifically made 'for' the use of the Charge
Wizard. True or not?
Tom
> Dean, I didn't say I used 60 amps. That's what the Intelipower can
deliver.
> A coach battery can deliver over 500 amps as I recall.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> > See You On The Road
> > Dean L.
> > WBCCI 2486
> >
> > On Mar 3, 2004, at 6:54 AM, Jim Greene wrote:
> >
> > > Hello Joy,
> > >
> > > The InteliPower/Charge Wizard is putting out 60 amps at 12.7V so I
> > > don't
> > > think that is the problem. It's some where in the wiring, fuse,
circuit
> > > breakers, grounding I think. It's making me crazy.
> > >
> > >
> > 60 AMPS ??? What is using that Much power ?
> > That is a Lot of power.
> > That is 762 watts of power and that makes a Lot of heat.
> > Lights only take 1-3 amps, a refrigerator running on 12V
> > will only take 10-15 amps. Your furnace takes about 3-5 amps.
> > Sounds like you have a problem.
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 21:24:51 -0500
From: "Nick Novia" <nicholas_s_novia@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Sighting
I saw one of you...I hope...on I95 arounf Milford, CT...this evening. You
were towing a 7 panel unpolished original looking Trade Wind, I think...
with New York plates...and towing with a big white "car!"
I beeped and held a picture of my Safari at the window as we passed
you....you looked, and smiled!
Good luck to you...out there on the road. I don't know who you were...but
it does my heart good to see these beatuies on the highways!
Nick Novia
'68 Safari
WBCCI #2577
WDCU
VAC
grounded.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 22:47:25 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] 72 Globetrotter Repairs
Um er, I have some bad news for you. It doesn't have a gray water tank,
never did. It's designed to have the gray water just run out on the
ground, which was OK in 1972. They started putting them in in 1974. We
use a blue tank on the ground to catch the gray water, called Blue Boys
in any camping store, lots of sizes.
To add one is very tricky. First of all you are adding a lot of weight
that the trailer isn't designed for. And then the plumbing has to be
completely redone. check the archives at tompatterson.com for some
ideas. There is no easy solution so far.
As for the "banana wrap" as that is called, I yield to better minds.
Daisy
John Wilson wrote:
> Looking for a gray water tank for a 1972 globetrotter and also the lower
> front trip that wraps the front of the trailor.
> any suggestions?
> Thanks
> John Wilson
>
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------------------------------
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