The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #172
VAL Digest Saturday, February 28 2004 Volume 01 : Number 172
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] On the subject of water heaters....
[VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #171
Re: [VAL] On the subject of water heaters....
[VAL] Wood Treatment
Re: [VAL] Re: Propane Lamp Location
Re: [VAL] calif title for vintage airstreams
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #171 - Diesel Suburban
Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
[VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] calif title for vintage airstreams
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] solar
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
Re: [VAL] solar
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] solar
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Re: [VAL] calif title for vintage airstreams
Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 09:16:41 -0500
From: "nickruthwarren" <nickruthwarren@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] On the subject of water heaters....
Hello All,
Once again I need the help and advice of this brilliant group.
Our trailer is a 1961 Tradewind. It has the original Atwood water heater
under the rear bed. The PO assured me it was working and it appears to be
in good shape, I had my plumber light it and he thought it was running okay
but we didn't have it going for more than two minutes because the trailer is
winterised and I have no idea what's in the tank right now. Being a newbie
I had it winterized at the local RV shop when they did the State Inspection
and brake work.
My real question is this.
My son will be sleeping on that bed. Assuming we test the water heater once
we have flushed out the Anti-freeze and it's running okay (ie. no leaks and
producing hot water!), is it safe?! I am little concerned that it's a gas
appliance under the bed.
Many Thanks,
Ruth Warren.
Nervous newbie.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 09:29:54 -0500
From: "David Mills" <davidmillsindy@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: VAL Digest V1 #171
I have replace the tile in my 1959 Caravanner with a Congoleum Vinyl
Composition Tile. This tile replaced the commercial tile that has been
mentioned that often contained asbestos. It must be glued to the floor and
waxed if you want a brilliant shine. Flooring contracts and expands with
temperature change, so press and stick tile or ceramic/stone flooring will
never adhere well in the long run. The latter are much to heavy anyway.
Here is a link to the Congoleum site...
Good Luck and take your time when putting it down... It will last a
lifetime.
http://www.congoleum.com/commercial/commercial_tile_1.shtml
David
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 07:02:10 -0700
From: "JP Polly" <jppolly@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Interior floor tile source
The size of tile may have changed from 1964 to 1969 so that could explain
why my original tile floor was 9 inch tiles. The ones I bought were from a
flooring store that is no longer in business, they were the heavy ones they
use in schools and other commercial locations, I don't remember the name
off hand and don't know where the box is in storage. They are the kind you
have to glue down, not self stick and they have no surface finish, they
have to be waxed. I like the way they look, though so the trouble it took
to put them down was worth it. The AS had ugly carpet when I got it, put
down over the old tile which was coming up due to leaks before I got the
trailer. Now I can sweep from back to front and out the door! I use a few
small rugs for warmth and color.
Polly
> [Original Message]
> From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Date: 2/25/04 8:52:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Interior floor tile source
>
> Polly,
>
> >>snip There is a commercial tile available that I used
>
> Can you tell me the brand name or where you bought it?
>
> Well, now I'm really confused. My tiles are 12" square and appear to
be
> the original installation. They're under interior pieces which suggests
to
> me that they were installed at the factory. Are there any other 1969
owners
> out there that can confirm that or correct me?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn
>
>
>
> > From: "JP Polly" <jppolly@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> > Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 07:11:28 -0700
> > To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> > Subject: RE: [VAL] Interior floor tile source
> >
> > There is a commercial tile available that I used but it comes in 12"
tiles
> > so needs to be cut down if you want the same size as the original. The
> > color is close though.
> > Polly in CO
> > WBCCI 7113
> >
> >
> >> [Original Message]
> >> From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> >> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> >> Date: 2/24/04 5:54:58 PM
> >> Subject: [VAL] Interior floor tile source
> >>
> >> All,
> >>
> >> I have a beige or tan marble pattern, 12" square floor tile from my
> > '69
> >> Caravel sitting next to me as I type this. I'm looking for a source
for
> >> these tiles (the original pattern if it's still available).
> >>
> >> I checked Armstrong, Concoleum, Takkett and Winton on the net and came
> >> up blank.
> >>
> >> Can anyone help with:
> >>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 08:58:40 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] On the subject of water heaters....
On the ultra ultra conservative side, gas control valve gaskets tend to
rot in less than 40 years leading to gas leaks. If I slept directly over
the water heater, I'd want a NEW control for that reason.
Then for ultra ultra ultra conservatism, I'd want a newly made and
certified pressure/temperature relief valve piped to the outside. The
modern relief valves have pretty much cured the holes in houses made by
a water heater turning into a rocket when the bottom of the tank got
rusty and the gas control overheated the tank and it became steam
propelled punching a hole through the roof.
Water has to expand when heated. If the water heater can't push back
against the pump check valve or release the pressure through the hot
water line, the tank has either to expand with the water or split. Metal
does expand when heated but not as much as water does.
I tried to salvage the water heater from my 1974 Monitor. One of the
water fittings crumbled instead of coming apart at the threads. I doubt
it has any value now.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 08:07:55 -0800
From: David Pfeffer <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
Subject: [VAL] Wood Treatment
Folks:
Just picked up a '68 Overlander with a blonde or light interior, it's been
sitting, untouched for over 15 years. Can someone recommend a method for
cleaning and treating the wood?
Thanks,
David Pfeffer
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 09:13:43 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Propane Lamp Location
Patti:
Thanks for affirming that location has been used for
propane lamps in the past. It would provide better light
dispersion in my trailer than would a street side location
where the overhead cabinet end is a few feet further forward
in the trailer.
Fred
"Patricia V. Raimondo" wrote:
>
> Hey Fred,
>
> The Humphrey in my 54 FC is just inside the door on the left, high,
> above where the original furnace was. My guess is that the location was
> due to: the propane line for the furnace and fridge are there and you
> can light it as you enter, avoiding tripping and stumbling around
> looking for the light! I'm hoping it's still there after the
> installation of the propane fireplace the plant installed for me!
>
> Patti
>
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>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 16:13:15 +0000
From: airstm1@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Subject: Re: [VAL] calif title for vintage airstreams
Hi, I bought several trailers from out of state, and had no title. Go to DMV and get
the form for vin. verification. Have a peace officer verify the vin, and apply for a
new title for California. Good Luck, I got itdown to about 3 trips to DMV.
Chuck
> Greetings:
> My name is Ken. I live in Turlock, cal. I am new to the airstream list. I
> own 2 vintage trailers
> and a newer rig that our family uses frequently. The newer one is an 87
> Sovereign. The
> older rigs are a 61 Airstream Flyiing Cloud and a 54 Silver Streak Clipper.
> The older trailers are not titled. I only have bills of sale. I am seeking
> advice on the
> best approach to title these trailers in Calif.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
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>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 10:56:49 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #171 - Diesel Suburban
Anytime you work a machine heavily you will shorten its life as compared
to using it in light duty service. To get the best life in heavy service
step up the maintenance schedule to "severe duty." This is usually
something like oil & filter change every 3000 mi, transmission filter
(automatic) & fluid change, differential oil change, every 25,000 mi or
more often. Synthetics may offer superior performance too. If a synthetic
reduces friction it will reduce heating and fuel consumption while
increasing life of the machinery.
Universal joints will not last as long when used in heavy service. If
they have grease fittings or plugs, grease them frequently.
If anything starts getting loose, fix it at once, such as the pinion gear
shaft in the rear axle (front axles on most 4 x 4s do not get much use).
The pinion bearings got loose on my Ford 1/2T van. All I had to do was
lock the rear axle (parking brake), drop the rear Ujoint, and tighten the
yoke nut on the pinion shaft to the spec, taking care by tightening it a
little at a time in case the crush washer was already crushed too much.
The pinion gear has a little play and should be just slightly stiff to
turn with the hand. Of course the proper thing to do is to have the rear
axle re-set up by a shop, but we often can get away with
do-it-yourselfing. :-)
Al
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 08:06:45 -0800 (PST)
> From: Chris Tognetti <ctognetti59@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Subject: [VAL] Towing with a 98 6.5 diesel K2500 Suburban
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have a 98 K2500 Diesel Suburban with 3:73 gearing 4x4. I was
wondering if anyone else with one has problems towing 8000 lbs. give or
take a few hundred pounds. No mods on the engine. Can not afford to
kill the truck. According to GM I'm under my max tow weight. They list
the max as 8600 lbs.
>
> Thanks for the help.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 08:54:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
try Howard Restore-A-Finish followed by Howard
Feed-n-Wax.
http://www.howardproducts.com
If you use their store locator, call the store before
travelling to buy just to make sure they have it.
Toby
- --- David Pfeffer <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com> wrote:
> Folks:
>
> Just picked up a '68 Overlander with a blonde or
> light interior, it's been
> sitting, untouched for over 15 years. Can someone
> recommend a method for
> cleaning and treating the wood?
>
> Thanks,
>
> David Pfeffer
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail.
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 10:33:38 -0700
From: "Maxwell" <maxwell@insideout-design.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
I'll second the Howard's product suggestion...we used them and are very
happy with the results.
- --
Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter - "Maxwell"
WBCCI #1824, VAC
www.insideout-design.net/maxwell
Toby Folwick wrote:
>try Howard Restore-A-Finish followed by Howard
>Feed-n-Wax.
>
>http://www.howardproducts.com
>
>If you use their store locator, call the store before
>travelling to buy just to make sure they have it.
>
>Toby
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 12:42:41 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
Hi David
I would first recommend that you clean it with Murphy's oil soap and
rinse well and dry quickly. At this point, once it's dry, you can see
what your problems are. Unless you are really down to bare wood, I would
not strip it. You may be able to just give it a good going over with
paste wax and super fine steel wool, and then buff it.
In general, you are better off staying away from fancy and expensive
chemicals. They are often toxic and may make things worse. Especially
if you are up for a real restoration, the less you do the better.
Once you get it clean, come back with a report and we will go for the
next step.
Daisy
David Pfeffer wrote:
> Folks:
>
> Just picked up a '68 Overlander with a blonde or light interior, it's been
> sitting, untouched for over 15 years. Can someone recommend a method for
> cleaning and treating the wood?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 11:24:18 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
hello everyone
i need your help again. upon purchasing my AS, i called my local AS dealer
(windish rv) and when i told them the year of my trailer, they referred me to
inland rv in california. i have purchased a number of items from inland and i
have found them to be professional and helpful. within their web site, they
have a pictorial and demo of wheel balancing using a static wheel balance. not
only do they show the tire and wheel balancing but also they balance the hub
and drum assembly while mounted to the wheel and tire. i again called my local
airstream dealer and they said they did not even have the ability to balance
the wheels and tires, much less the hub and drum. my question is:
how important is hub and drum balancing?
does it need to be done?
short of sending my hubs, tires and wheels to california, where would a guy
get this done?
my take on the inland rv site is that it is absolutely necessary but i would
like another opinion.
thanks for your help
harry truitt
franktown co
66 safari
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 11:13:09 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
Howard's finish restorer is great stuff. I use it on antique furniture to
clean/polish without messing up the original finish. Home Depot carries it,
and Lowe's might.
Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 11:48:56 -0700
From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Harry:
Look in the local Yellow Pages under "tire dealers".
There are perhaps 6 pages of Denver area tire dealers who
should be able to balance your trailer wheels/tires on their
high speed balancing equipment. Ask if they leave the wheel
on the hub & trailer, or dismount it, to balance it if
balancing the hub is of concern to you.
Fred in Denver
Stan Truitt wrote:
>
within their web site, they [Inland RV] have a pictorial
and demo of wheel balancing using a static wheel balance.
not only do they show the tire and wheel balancing but also
they balance the hub and drum assembly while mounted to the
wheel and tire. i again called my local
> airstream dealer and they said they did not even have the ability to balance
the wheels and tires, much less the hub and drum. my question is:
>
> short of sending my hubs, tires and wheels to california, where would a guy
get this done?
> thanks for your help
> harry truitt
> franktown co
> 66 safari
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 11:07:22 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] calif title for vintage airstreams
> Hi, I bought several trailers from out of state, and had no title. Go to
DMV and get the form for vin. verification. Have a peace officer verify the
vin, and apply for a new title for California. Good Luck, I got itdown to
about 3 trips to DMV.
Chuck
Hey Chuck
For those who believe that the CSAA will take care of this...Don't think so.
They can do routine transfers but this kind of thing will be beyond their
capability.
For instance, I had the out-of-state registration and title for mine and
still the DMV ran me around the block a few times. One of the things that
tripped me up was that the AZ title and registration referred to the body
type as TV or Travel Trailer. The DMV rejected my paperwork telling me to
"clarify body type TV". After calling around some, I found someone who
advised me the the correct body type for a trailer in CA was "CCH" or Coach.
So I sent back the package of rejected paperwork with a note to please
change the desription to CCH and FINALLY it went through.
It all started when I forgot my checkbook and the DMV wouldn't take credit
cards.......I went home and got it. Then they told me that I didn't have a
smog certificate. I suggested that it was because this was a
TRAILER....Then they questioned the ID of the peace officer that I had
verify the trailer serial number ....and so on.....
Your tax dollars at work...
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 14:02:54 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Hi Fred and Harry,
Don't look in on the list very often, but what I read of this thread
prompted me to suggest a look at the Inland RV web site. I haven't been
there for quite a while, but some time ago it stated that typical spin
balance use for auto tires/wheels doesn't do the job for Airstream wheels.
Need to have the entire drum wheel balanced as a unit and keep the positions
marked for assembly. When you see the pictures on the web site, you'll
understand more than any words I can write.
Great info on using substandard rims, etc.
The vibration damage to the monocoque from running out of balance rolling
gear is substantial! Somewhat akin to running bad torsion axles.
Regards, '69
Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 13:13:06 -0600
From: "Dean L." <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
How fast are you going to drive?
80 + or 90 + MPH ?
Just watch your tire ware. If you see the signs of ware then
look for the cause.
Have your other half drive behind you for 5-10 miles to see
if you have extra bounce or anything else wrong.
See You On The Road
Dean L.
WBCCI 2486
On Feb 27, 2004, at 12:24 PM, Stan Truitt wrote:
> how important is hub and drum balancing?
> does it need to be done?
> short of sending my hubs, tires and wheels to california, where would
> a guy
> get this done?
>
> my take on the inland rv site is that it is absolutely necessary but i
> would
> like another opinion.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 13:27:14 -0600
From: "William Durkee" <bdkli@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
From: "Fred Coldwell" <agrijeep@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 11:48:56 -0700
Harry:
Look in the local Yellow Pages under "tire dealers"....
Fred in Denver
Stan Truitt wrote:
>
within their web site, they [Inland RV] have a pictorial
and demo of wheel balancing using a static wheel balance.
not only do they show the tire and wheel balancing but also
they balance the hub and drum assembly while mounted to the
wheel and tire. i again called my local
> airstream dealer and they said they did not even have the ability to
balance the wheels and tires, much less the hub and drum. my question is:
>
> short of sending my hubs, tires and wheels to california, where would a
guy get this done?
> thanks for your help
> harry truitt
> franktown co
> 66 safari
Has anyone tried Centramatic Balancers?
Bill Durkee
1969 Sovereign
03 Ram 1500 Quad
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 15:00:04 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Stan Truitt,
I'll have a similar situation when I finish the replacement axle on my '69
Safari. I looked at the Inland RV site many times and will assemble some
accessories for static balance of my wheel/drum combo. I suggest that you
keep looking at the Inland RV site and work out a means that you can get
them balanced. I doubt that you will see any bounce by watching the tire as
the shocks (they are good, aren't they?) would dampen much of the movement.
Most tire mounters at least do a static balance of the tire/rim combo. Some
even do a spin balance. However, this doesn't address the hub balance
situation. I think Inland suggests that high frequency vibration damages
the monocoque when the wheels are improperly balanced.
BTW, I balanced my motorcycle tires/rim combo using the axle and allowing
the total to rotate freely to give me the heavy point. Hmmm, it there an
axle from the old installation about to become part of a balance setup?
Regards, '69 Safari,
Joy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 14:23:48 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar
I have a 1969 Caravel and want to add additional batteries as my wife is
unable to tolerate LP. Has anyone added solar and additional batteries. I
have taken the LP tanks off and I am mounting the spare tire on the tongue
and was thinking about adding two batteries on the tongue. How would I
connect the two front batteries with the battery in the back? What about the
univolt???
Dan
14148
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 13:47:11 -0700
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <johansen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Joy
Andy has softened his position a bit when you have new axles - he says that
the new hubs/drums are built better and may not need balancing like the old
ones did.
Ken J.
At 03:00 PM 02/27/04 -0500, you wrote:
>Stan Truitt,
>
>I'll have a similar situation when I finish the replacement axle on my '69
>Safari. I looked at the Inland RV site many times and will assemble some
>accessories for static balance of my wheel/drum combo. I suggest that you
>keep looking at the Inland RV site and work out a means that you can get
>them balanced. I doubt that you will see any bounce by watching the tire as
>the shocks (they are good, aren't they?) would dampen much of the movement.
>Most tire mounters at least do a static balance of the tire/rim combo. Some
>even do a spin balance. However, this doesn't address the hub balance
>situation. I think Inland suggests that high frequency vibration damages
>the monocoque when the wheels are improperly balanced.
>
>BTW, I balanced my motorcycle tires/rim combo using the axle and allowing
>the total to rotate freely to give me the heavy point. Hmmm, it there an
>axle from the old installation about to become part of a balance setup?
>
> Regards, '69 Safari,
>Joy
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 16:39:42 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Thanks Kenneth,
Thanks for the information. I've been out of the loop for quite a while.
Sort of eaves drop once in a while, but Cowboy Action Shooting and reloading
is taking up much of my time right now. Got to get shooting out of my
system before there's a ban on ownership of weapons by law abiding citizens.
It's really true that when all is said an done, only the perps will have
guns and I'll be at the mercy of a 911 call that takes an hour to respond to
if it is considered important?
Sad that we, citizens, are loosing so many of our basic freedoms guaranteed
by the constitution. My firearm is always with me when in my home and when
I camp in my Airstream. Hopefully I'll never have to use it, but . . .
DEA, BATF, Moral Police, Patriot Act, and other law enforcement persons can
raid my home at any hour of the day or night to seize records, my computer,
my life . . .
Will Airstream come out with ballistic aluminum skins? :)
Easy to get me off the subject now-a-days,
Regards,
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 15:48:20 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
How fast are you going to drive?
> 80 + or 90 + MPH ?
hi dean
my pull vehicle is a 1951 desoto with 440cu in 6pac, so 80 or 90mph might be
tempting but i will get it below 70. thanks to all for your replies.
harry
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean L." <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
> >
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 18:52:46 -0500
From: <Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
David,
I'd try a fine steel wool with lemon oil. Has worked well for me.
Paul Waddell
WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
66 Overlander
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Pfeffer" <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 11:07 AM
Subject: [VAL] Wood Treatment
> Folks:
>
> Just picked up a '68 Overlander with a blonde or light interior, it's been
> sitting, untouched for over 15 years. Can someone recommend a method for
> cleaning and treating the wood?
>
> Thanks,
>
> David Pfeffer
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 16:25:35 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <rhightower@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
I found it at Home Depot. Works great.
Bob Hightower
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Toby Folwick" <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
> try Howard Restore-A-Finish followed by Howard
> Feed-n-Wax.
>
> http://www.howardproducts.com
>
> If you use their store locator, call the store before
> travelling to buy just to make sure they have it.
>
> Toby
>
> --- David Pfeffer <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com> wrote:
> > Folks:
> >
> > Just picked up a '68 Overlander with a blonde or
> > light interior, it's been
> > sitting, untouched for over 15 years. Can someone
> > recommend a method for
> > cleaning and treating the wood?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > David Pfeffer
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:23:58 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar
Connect the front batteries in parallel (plus to plus and minus to
minus) with substantial (say 2 gauge) cables. The univolt will happily
overcharge them all, so you need to update to a more modern battery
maintenance system. The solar panels will need a charge controller with
them also.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:32:50 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
In my experience, static balance is never a good as a computer based
dynamic balance. For one, static balance doesn't correct for lateral
unbalance. For another, static balance isn't as sensitive to unbalance
as the computer based dynamic balance. Andy's pictures of a wheel
damaged by unbalance is probably incorrect. In my experience that damage
comes from loose lug nuts, not unbalance. The swinging moment of the
unbalance in the hub and drum is far less a factor than that of the tire
which makes balancing the assembly less of a value.
A spin balance of the assembly would do well, and MAYBE a shop that
services large trucks still has the tools and the skill to do that. It
won't come for $2.50 a tire though, probably more like $15 or 20 a tire.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 20:48:35 -0600
From: Daniel Childress <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] solar
What would you suggest? Should I use two 6 volt golf cart batteries,
as I will be using the batteries extensively.
Dan
14148
>Connect the front batteries in parallel (plus to plus and minus to
>minus) with substantial (say 2 gauge) cables. The univolt will happily
>overcharge them all, so you need to update to a more modern battery
>maintenance system. The solar panels will need a charge controller with
>them also.
>
>Gerald J.
>--
>Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
>Reproduction by permission only.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 20:03:52 -0700
From: Rob Davis <rob-iod@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
Harry,
We called all over the greater Denver area, multiple tire stores told us
that spin balancing on the trailer requires old equipment that they
don't have anymore and referred us to:
MERRILL AXLE & WHEEL SERVICE
7800 W. 16th Ave.
Lakewood, CO 80215
(303)237-8846*
*
Merrill roughly described their process as:
* Mount the tire on the wheel and computer high-speed balance the
assembly.
* Mount them to the trailer axle(s) and high-speed spin the
tire/wheel in-place, verifying (by strobe?) any imbalance that
remains and adjust lead weight as necessary.
* Re-spin on trailer with a technician in the trailer to 'feel' if
smooth while spinning.
They charged $63 to do everything and it seemed to do the trick.
Rob Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
WBCCI #1824, VAC
>Stan Truitt wrote:
>
>
>"...balance the hub and drum assembly while mounted to the wheel and tire... Short
>of sending my hubs, tires and wheels to california, where would a guy get this done?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:20:24 -0500
From: "Myrna Warren" <uncleneal@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] balancing of tires, wheels hubs and drums
> Merrill roughly described their process as:
>
> * Mount the tire on the wheel and computer high-speed balance the
> assembly.
> * Mount them to the trailer axle(s) and high-speed spin the
> tire/wheel in-place, verifying (by strobe?) any imbalance that
> remains and adjust lead weight as necessary.
> * Re-spin on trailer with a technician in the trailer to 'feel' if
> smooth while spinning.
>
Sounds like they are using an Alemite (sp?) balancer like I used at a Buick
dealership in the early 70's. It has a switch device with a magnet on an
arm to operate it. You stick the magnet to the bottom of the axle, and spin
the tire with a machine that has a powered roller. When the heavy side
comes down it closes the switch, which causes the strobe light to flash,
"freezing" the tire in the heavyside down position. You just work with the
weights until the strobe flashes are random. Balances everthing that moves.
We also used them to balance driveshafts.
Neal
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 23:05:30 EST
From: SHMossLanding@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] calif title for vintage airstreams
In a message dated 2/27/2004 11:01:03 AM Pacific Standard Time,
g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net writes:
> It all started when I forgot my checkbook and the DMV wouldn't take credit
> cards.......I went home and got it. Then they told me that I didn't have a
> smog certificate. I suggested that it was because this was a
> TRAILER....Then they questioned the ID of the peace officer that I had
> verify the trailer serial number ....and so on.....
>
> Your tax dollars at work...
>
Been there, done that. After 5 trailer, you know what they expect and want.
And your right about the CSAA. I got to be good friends with the manager at
the local DMV office, he sees me now, calls me over and make sure I have all
they want. This guy is well worth my tax dollars.
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 21:10:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <toby_folwick@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Wood Treatment
a note on lemon oil - from what I've read - it
contains ammonia which would dry things out -
a side note - Howard's Feed-n-wax is orange oil,
carnauba wax and beeswax.
Toby
- --- Balloon@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> David,
>
> I'd try a fine steel wool with lemon oil. Has worked
> well for me.
>
> Paul Waddell
> WBCCI/VAC/WDCU 1270
> 66 Overlander
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Pfeffer" <pfefferd@xxxxxxxxxx.ibm.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 11:07 AM
> Subject: [VAL] Wood Treatment
>
>
> > Folks:
> >
> > Just picked up a '68 Overlander with a blonde or
> light interior, it's been
> > sitting, untouched for over 15 years. Can someone
> recommend a method for
> > cleaning and treating the wood?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > David Pfeffer
> >
> >
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message. please delete all
> unnecessary original text
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format,
> please go to
> >
>
http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
>
>
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please
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>
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>
>
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