VAL Digest V1 #135

VAL Digest         Thursday, January 22 2004         Volume 01 : Number 135




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Topics in Today's Digest:

[VAL] Re: Front couch or "Gaucho"
[VAL] Re: tank repair
[VAL] Re: roof work
Re: [VAL] Re: LED lighting
Re: [VAL] Re: roof work
[VAL] conversion
[VAL] Stove grate holders
Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134
Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134 - LED taillights
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134 - Wheel Oil Seals
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134 - Where all those little electrons go, GFIs
Re: [VAL] Re: LED lighting
Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
[VAL] RE: Two Questions
Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134 - Wheel Oil Seals
Re: [VAL] RE: Two Questions
Re: [VAL] Shower curtain glides
RE: [VAL] Shower curtain glides
Re: [VAL] RE: Two Questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 22:46:39 -0800
From: "Richard        McFarland" <estatewagons@xxxxxxxxxx.att.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: Front couch or "Gaucho"

> Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 23:05:09 EST
> From: RESORARCHITECT@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re: Front couch or "Gaucho"

> Our rig ('65) was badly devalued by the front couch being removed. We feel
> strongly that the loss of the correct front couch is a big negative when
we see
> Airstreams for sale.

Anyone who wants help with the couch
> restoration feel free to call or email us and we'll send some photos of
critical
> details to help and inspire you to repair that feature and not trash it.
Stuart
> Resor.
>

Hi Stuart - I thought I'd add my thoughts to this-

I am extremely sensitive to the concepts of "stock and original" versus
"updated and/or customized" - especially when considering the vintage
car market. I've been in and around it for 30 years.

I might suggest that when it comes to trailers - I think that the market is
not
quite so sensitive - at least not yet - or at least not in all market areas.

If one lives in a sparsely populated area - and a trailer is for sale - the
chances
are that there won't be a large number of interested buyers.

If one lives in a heavily populated area - and a trailer is for sale - the
chances
are that there will be a number of potentially interested buyers.

If a trailer is no longer stock - say the front couch has been removed etc -
it may
make it harder to sell (potentially lower the value) if it's a "buyer's
market" (say - in
a small population area).

But I might suggest that if a trailer is offered for sale in a heavily
populated area -
that if some people aren't interested in a "modified/non-stock
trailer"....there will be others
that are looking for a modified/non-stock trailer.

It all depends on what a potential owner is looking for.

If they are looking for their first trailer - and don't have any reference
to what they want -
they may shop from photos and magazines and visiting vintage RV shows etc. -
and it's
very possible that they'll have "retro" on their minds and they'll have
"original" on their
minds.

If they are looking for a second or third trailer - it's very possible they
will have a list of
criteria - "wants" and don't wants" etc.  I have an idea that the folks in
this catagory - who
are looking to actively use a trailer - might not be put off by a missing
front gaucho - as they
might be wanting to build something with more thought put into it - and if
it's a larger trailer
with a separate bed area - they may be looking to do away with the gaucho
all together and
put in a dinette or at the very least a flexible open area that allows for
chairs and a portable
table - etc.

I guess why I'm sharing my thoughts is in case a new or potential owner
checks in on this
thread - so they don't automatically assume that they "have" to stay
original to always keep
the value up. It's a tricky zone - but one where I think it's important to
consider what one
wants while one is owning and using a trailer - versus - trying to figure
out what will work for
them while "maintaining"  the value for a possible future buyer.

It's a guarantee that no two owners think alike...and it's pretty much a
guarantee that a buyer
will most often look for something to use as a "discount item" when thinking
about making an
offer on a trailer.  Trailers almost always need some type of service - and
most new owners
often look forward to personalizing their new trailer - so don't spend all
your time and money
trying to figure out what a "potential" buyer "might" (or might not) want.

It's sort of like having a great vintage car with nice but less than perfect
paint.  Some people
might suggest that you paint it before you put it on the market - but there
is no guarantee that
you will get the full value/cost of the new paint job back when you find a
buyer...and in fact the
new buyer might want to change the color anyway...and they might try to
discount their
offer...even if it has a new paint job.  Sometimes it is less expensive to
offer something for
sale and plan to discount the price at some point to allow for it's
eccentricities and let the
new buyer enjoy "getting a discount" and at the same time you end up with an
easier sale
and end up possibly getting a better "net" price for the vehicle.

It's all about the quirks of the market - depending on regional interest -
demand - availability
etc...etc - rather than assuming that one guideline will fit all situations.

Bottom line - if you like original - it's great - go for it.  If you want
custom - it's great - go
for it.  No matter how hard you try to second guess the market - it will try
to find a way
around you!

I have a 1936 that I plan to redo totally original (visually) and totally
up-to-date under the
skin mechanically.

I am shopping for a 50's Airstream that (at least this week) I hope to gut
and re-do exactly
the way I like.

Best Wishes.  RL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:06:55 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: tank repair

In a message dated 1/17/2004 11:02:08 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
I'm still trying to get my black water tank fixed and back in the
trailer. I have a 71 Safari. El Monte Plastics made the tank, but no
longer has the mold. Inca Plastics (they are the current Airstream tank
supplier) does not have the mold either. Airstream is sold out of this
tank. I've tried to repair the tank using plastic welding and hope it
holds.
I used JB Weld to fix a large crack in mine about 1.5 years ago and it is 
still holding!
The trick was applying the goo through the toilet flap and over the crack.
Now my gray water leaks at 3/4 full.....it's on my list.
Actually I think it's related to the shower drain cause it also leaks when I 
use the shower weather or not the tank has anything it.

AlanT
Phx Az
74 Safari

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:13:42 EST
From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: roof work

In a message dated 1/16/2004 11:03:40 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
Is it ok to stand on the top of the Airstream?  I have to replace the gear 
on the antenna.  I thought the most convenient place to be working on it was 
from above while on the top.
Every time I've worked on my "tena' or A/c unit, I just cover my extension 
ladder with a cloth or blanket and lean it to where I need to work. Keeping in 
mind where the rivets are assuming the beams are underneath for support.
I would never put all my weight on the roof.

AlanT 
Phz Az
74 Safari

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:40:36 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LED lighting

You go, girl ! Them LED's are the cat's pajamas !

Daisy Diode

Joann Wheatley wrote:
> Hi all:
>    Mark, the sheet metal man who's supervising, instructing me on work, 
> and designing on the fly as pertains to my '56 Bubble rebuild - came up 
> with a clever use of the new LED tail lights that I bought at a truck 
> shop. We were going to put them in in toto which would have meant that 
> we'd have to make the hole in the skin a little bigger and also that 
> the big klutzy black rubber gaskets on the new lights would show; the 
> lights being designed for use on a big truck. I wanted the new lights 
> cuz they each have 44 very bright LEDs. Anyway, he found that by 
> judicious use of the sheet metal shears, he could cut away the already 
> rusted part of the original bezel til it just fit on a small rim in the 
> new housing and screw the whole thing back together and install. No big 
> black rubber gasket/seal and the fit is perfect. I'll have to put in 
> some time cleaning up the old rims/bezels but those will be some HOT 
> tail lights!
>     He also figured out a way to cut the back off some nautical style 
> dome lights - with power slurping Xenon bulbs - and replace them with a 
> LED light that has about 15 white bulbs. Lots of light and little draw 
> on the battery. I'm putting a waterproof nautical type light in the new 
> bathroom and using a 25w, 12v incandescent bulb. Shouldn't draw too 
> much and if it does, I'll use it mostly when on shore power.
> I found another version of this light made up in stainless steel and 
> will use it as a porch light.
>     I took pics of both refits and soon as I can figure out how to post 
> the pics, I'll put them up.
> Jo Ann
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:47:12 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: roof work

Alan, I regularly walk on my '73's roof. I have a snazzy articulating 
ladder that lets me get up there. If you stay on the ribs, or better yet 
crawl to spread the weight, you should be OK. There is no other way to 
ensure that all the holes in the skin are well and truely caulked.

Daisy (not exactly the little woman....)

AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/16/2004 11:03:40 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
> valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
> Is it ok to stand on the top of the Airstream?  I have to replace the gear 
> on the antenna.  I thought the most convenient place to be working on it was 
> from above while on the top.
> Every time I've worked on my "tena' or A/c unit, I just cover my extension 
> ladder with a cloth or blanket and lean it to where I need to work. Keeping in 
> mind where the rivets are assuming the beams are underneath for support.
> I would never put all my weight on the roof.
> 
> AlanT 
> Phz Az
> 74 Safari

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:13:47 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] conversion

Go see the '73 conversion on EBay,



  Item number: 2455598100 	

I would love to have that much counterspace ! Hummm

Daisy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 08:29:51 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Stove grate holders

    All,        

    Where can I find the small gauge spring steel wire clips used to hold
the black burner grates in place while underway?  The spring steel wire is
about the diameter of the wire on a large paper clip and is V-shaped.  The
legs are 3" long with a small bend at each end.  The top of the V is 3"
wide. 

    I could make them very easily if I knew where to find the wire stock.
Beyond that, do any of you know who carries these simple items?  I have one
to use as a pattern and need a total of three for my Magic Chef stove.

    I've tried Inland and another on who's name I can't remember.  It's was
no surprise that they don't know what I'm talking about.

    Thanks,

    Glyn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:03:39 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders

Hobby shops that sell to builders of model airplanes stock piano wire in
various gauges. Its very good spring wire but will rust. They'd not rust
if treated with cold gun blue (from the sporting goods gun store) and a
little oil. Its probably best to use the corner of a grinding wheel to
cut the piano wire, its about as hard as the jaws of ordinary wire
cutters and sometimes notches the cutters.

Take an old spring with you to match the diameter. Large paper clip
sounds like about 1 mm or .039" diameter.

McMaster-Carr has stainless steel piano wire. www.mcmaster.com though
what I've bought of it isn't nearly as springy as true piano wire. They
also have piano wire, but in much larger bundles than you'll ever need.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:11:28 -0500
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134

> Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 10:13:51 EST
> From: AlanTBird@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: [VAL] Re:Suburban Heater
> 
> A few months back someone had issues with there unit shutting down the pilot
> when starting up.!
> I don't remember if there was ever a solution but mine just started doing
> that!
> If I hold in the reset while someone turns up the stat and then slowly let up
> on the plunger, it fires. When I try and let it fire on it's own it clicks
> and the pilot goes out!
> Any ideas on a cure would be appreciated!
> 
> AlanT
> Phx Az
> 74 safari
> 
> Hi, I had a similar problem with a heater in our home. A friend
gave me a can of compressed air that is used to clean the computer
keyboard etc. I advised to shove the small plastic straw down into 
the pilot and blast the sucker out good. I did and ..you guessed
it ... the pilot was partially blocked and works fine now. 
Incidentally, my propane delivery man used an air tank and blew
the entire heater out but he didn't get down into the pilot like 
the little can did. hope this helps.
Jerry 
57 Overlander

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:13:13 -0500
From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders

Glyn Judson wrote:

>     All,        
> 
>     Where can I find the small gauge spring steel wire clips used to hold
> the black burner grates in place while underway?  

I'd look at a Camping World or similar vendor.  I'd expect any RV dealer 
would have them.

<snip> I have one
> to use as a pattern and need a total of three for my Magic Chef stove.<snip>

Have you checked with Magic Chef's tech support?  By the way if you have 
only one, you need seven more (assuming a four burner range) as there 
are two each burner.  FWIW why not just wrap them in a soft cloth and 
travel with them in the sink?  Or maybe the stove cover (assuming again; 
in this case that you have one on your stove) would hold them in place 
with a fold of toweling as a pad?

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:41:00 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders

The 2001 RV parts and accessories catalog I picked up at Byerly RV at
Eureka, MO, shows a package of 8 grate clips for Magic Chef. Their
catalog number 60657, mfg number 50-20251-1. $4.29 for the package. 800
8RV DEAL or www.byerlyrv.com it says on the sticker they added to the
universal catalog. 800-876-2627. Should be in many other such catalog
editions. Easier than bending piano wire.

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:21:01 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134 - LED taillights

There are LED replacement "bulbs" that have the same bayonet base as the
1157 stop/tail lamp bulbs and the 1156 back up lamp bulbs.
Unfortunately the are intended to go in where the original bulbs point
straight back instead of crossways, so as the LEDs are very directional,
even the wide angle ones, the reflected light going out back is
diminished.
You might put the truck tail light unit in behind the original fixture so
that the original lens is still used. Then it will look original but
still be a low current draw LED tail light. 
Having the original lens in place will reduce the light output but these
super bright LEDs are so bright that your taillights will still be amply
bright. Or you might cut the LED taillight unit's lens away if it's made
so it can be removed without damaging the LED array.
Al
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:07:12 -0800
> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> Subject: [VAL] Re: LED lighting
> 
> Hi all:
>    Mark, the sheet metal man who's supervising, instructing me on work,
and designing on the fly as pertains to my '56 Bubble rebuild - came up
with a clever use of the new LED tail lights that I bought at a truck
shop. We were going to put them in in toto which would have meant that
he'd have to make the hole in the skin a little bigger and also that the
big klutzy black rubber gaskets on the new lights would show; the lights
being designed for use on a big truck. I wanted the new lights cuz they
each have 44 very bright LEDs. Anyway, he found that by judicious use of
the sheet metal shears, he could cut away the already rusted part of the
original bezel til it just fit on a small rim in the new housing and
screw the whole thing back together and install. No big black rubber
gasket/seal and the fit is perfect. I'll have to put in some time
cleaning up the old rims/bezels but those will be some HOT tail lights!
>     He also figured out a way to cut the back off some nautical style
dome lights - with power slurping Xenon bulbs - and replace them with a
LED light that has about 15 white bulbs. Lots of light and little draw on
the battery. I'm putting a waterproof nautical type light in the new
bathroom and using a 25w, 12v incandescent bulb. Shouldn't draw too much
and if it does, I'll use it mostly when on shore power.
> I found another version of this light made up in stainless steel and
will use it as a porch light.
>     I took pics of both refits and soon as I can figure out how to post
the pics, I'll put them up.
> Jo Ann

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:04:47 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134 - Wheel Oil Seals

$11.99 for a wheel oil seal????? That's $47.96 for 4!!!!
Try an industrial bearing supply next time. Most of these seals are not
specials for automotive applications but are stock sizes for industrial
applications.

I went to Auto Zone and paid $5.99 for one and thought I was getting
taken for a ride.
The pack of 4 new seals I discovered later among the stuff that came with
my trailer had a price tag of $0.79 each.
Al


> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:38:34 -0600
> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" 
> <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Wheel seals - I've dug
> 
> I bought a NAPA number 16811 wheel seal for the right drum on my '68
Caravel. It cost me $11.99 net. There have been hints that Caravel may
not have always received the same hardware even during the same
production year. Things like differences in shock position.
> 
> Gerald J.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:11:41 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134 - Where all those little electrons go, GFIs

AC doesn't go to the trailer or vehicle battery. If it did (accidentally)
the battery would boil, foam and maybe explode.
Unless all you have is a popup that has a regular 15 amp plug that is
plugged into the 15/20 amp outlet in the pedestal, and that outlet is a
GFI or its breaker is a GFI, there is no GFI protection for RV power
supply from the pedestal.
GFI is used only to protect individual circuits (we're not dealing with
industrial GFIs).
Al

> Question (referring back to the previously envisioned scenario of the
kid climbing into the Airstream, in the rain, with one foot still in the
mud): if the inverter is on and 120 volts gets to the shell, whether
directly or via a short to ground, is the kid zapped? Or do all those
little electrons prefer to run right back to the battery? 
> (Assume no GFI and a breaker that's slow to trip.)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rob
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 14:19:30 -0600
> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" 
> <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] More wiring: grounding & inverters?
> 
> When unplugged and running on the inverter, the 120 volt wiring, both
hot and neutral is floating unless its grounded in the inverter itself.
> Then if either hot or neutral is connected to shell by a short,
therestill won't be a circuit completed by kid to earth to cause a shock.
> There's nothing connected to ground other than by the tongue jack and
then only if the tongue jack is on the ground and even then that is a
poor ground connection. But so long as the inverter lets the 120 volts
float with respect to ground, then there's no shock hazard.
> 
> Only a GFI breaker trips at currents that will protect life, any other
breaker won't notice current through a body.
> 
> Gerald J.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:50:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Karen Waldo <landyacht76@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: LED lighting

Hey Daisy,
You must have been talking to the Amish here. I passed
a buggy the other night with them on. It made me think
of you!
Karen
- --- Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
> You go, girl ! Them LED's are the cat's pajamas !
> 
> Daisy Diode
> 
>

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:15:16 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders

    Matt,

    Thanks for the proper count.  I thought that there were only one per,
it'd good to know that each burner takes two.  That's five more for me to
buy/make for my 3 burner Magic Chef.

    Ah, I just remembered, it was an RV supply up the road in Oxnard that I
called yesterday.  They had no idea as to what I was talking about.  I'll
try Camping World and them take a trip to my local hardware store (thanks
Gerald).  

    Thanks all,

    Glyn 

> From: Matt Worner <wornmatt@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:13:13 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
> 
> Glyn Judson wrote:
> 
>> All,        
>> 
>> Where can I find the small gauge spring steel wire clips used to hold
>> the black burner grates in place while underway?
> 
> I'd look at a Camping World or similar vendor.  I'd expect any RV dealer
> would have them.
> 
> <snip> I have one
>> to use as a pattern and need a total of three for my Magic Chef stove.<snip>
> 
> Have you checked with Magic Chef's tech support?  By the way if you have
> only one, you need seven more (assuming a four burner range) as there
> are two each burner.  FWIW why not just wrap them in a soft cloth and
> travel with them in the sink?  Or maybe the stove cover (assuming again;
> in this case that you have one on your stove) would hold them in place
> with a fold of toweling as a pad?
> 
> Matt
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:22:06 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <rwhigh@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders

Those little wire clips are pretty common for RV stoves.  I have seen them
at several RV Supply places, along with the kitchen/cooking supplies.

Roger

Roger Hightower
WBCCI #4165,VAC
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:27:45 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders

    Gerald,

    You 'da man!  I'll call them right now.

    Actually I just did and ordered them.  For those of you who wish to
know, the price went up to $5.29 for the set of 8 but the shipping was $7.55
plus $0.45 tax for a total of $13.29.

    Another way of looking at it is that they're $1.66 each at that price

    Thanks,

    Glyn

> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Organization: Gerald N. Johnson
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:41:00 -0600
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders
> 
> The 2001 RV parts and accessories catalog I picked up at Byerly RV at
> Eureka, MO, shows a package of 8 grate clips for Magic Chef. Their
> catalog number 60657, mfg number 50-20251-1. $4.29 for the package. 800
> 8RV DEAL or www.byerlyrv.com it says on the sticker they added to the
> universal catalog. 800-876-2627. Should be in many other such catalog
> editions. Easier than bending piano wire.
> 
> Gerald J.
> -- 
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:50:35 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Stove grate holders

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/monthlyspec/rv-microwave-samsung.htm
http://www.not-just-parts.com/default.asp?store=2&cat=RV%2FAppliances%2FCooktops+%26+Ranges
http://www.rvmailorder.com/range_accessories.htm but looks extravagantly
priced.
http://www.hilltoprv.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=301 as
these.

Results of a google search on "grate clip" "magic chef"

Gerald J.
- -- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 16:26:03 -0600
From: "ERNEST SWIHART" <eswihart@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com>
Subject: [VAL] RE: Two Questions

- -----Original Message-----
From:eswihart@xxxxxxxxxx.rr.com 
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 3:39 PM
To: 'VAL List'
Subject: Two Questions

We own a '77 29 foot center bathroom International. I have two questions for
the members of the list. I've lurked on the list for a long time and
appreciate the expertise and experience of the listees.
1. I am considering putting in a cork floor but I live in Minnesota and
worry that the extremes in humidity might cause difficulty with buckling of
the cork tiles. The salesperson at Dodge-Regupol, though and Airstream owner
herself, could not be sure I wouldn't have a problem. Do any of the people
who've put in a cork floor have experience with extremes in humidity
comparable to MN? What season of the year was the installation done? Do you
see significant expansion/contraction with humidity cycles?
2. I recently purchased a new truck (Ram with Hemi) and the hitch receiver
is 3" higher than my old truck. I will have to have a custom drop bar made
to accommodate my Reese hitch. I also have a problem dragging the rear of
the trailer when I park it at home because of the sharp rise of the
driveway/parking area. This has also been a problem in some places where
there is a deep gutter at the exit of a filling station. I tend also to use
remote campgrounds that don't have easy terrain. I thought that another
solution to the problem would be to put a 3" spacer between the axels and
frame with a bolt welded in for the shocks. This would give me 3" more
ground clearance and probably not affect towing stability.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Ernie Swihart
Minnetonka MN 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 15:31:24 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <cbburke@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #134 - Wheel Oil Seals

One thought to keep in mind.
Airstream uses a double lip wheel seal, never a single lip seal. A bit more
expensive, but what is losing your brakes on the road due to seal leakage
worth??

Charlie

waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:

> $11.99 for a wheel oil seal????? That's $47.96 for 4!!!!
> Try an industrial bearing supply next time. Most of these seals are not
> specials for automotive applications but are stock sizes for industrial
> applications.
>
> I went to Auto Zone and paid $5.99 for one and thought I was getting
> taken for a ride.
> The pack of 4 new seals I discovered later among the stuff that came with
> my trailer had a price tag of $0.79 each.
> Al
>
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:38:34 -0600
> > From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer"
> > <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> > Subject: Re: [VAL] Wheel seals - I've dug
> >
> > I bought a NAPA number 16811 wheel seal for the right drum on my '68
> Caravel. It cost me $11.99 net. There have been hints that Caravel may
> not have always received the same hardware even during the same
> production year. Things like differences in shock position.
> >
> > Gerald J.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 18:24:20 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: Two Questions

Ernie, I wouldn't fool around with the suspension on your Airstream. Check
the existing axels for proper height. www.inlandrv.com used to have
instruction on how to check it on their site. I don't know if it's still
there or not.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

>
> We own a '77 29 foot center bathroom International. I have two questions
for
> the members of the list. I've lurked on the list for a long time and
> appreciate the expertise and experience of the listees.
> 1. I am considering putting in a cork floor but I live in Minnesota and
> worry that the extremes in humidity might cause difficulty with buckling
of
> the cork tiles. The salesperson at Dodge-Regupol, though and Airstream
owner
> herself, could not be sure I wouldn't have a problem. Do any of the people
> who've put in a cork floor have experience with extremes in humidity
> comparable to MN? What season of the year was the installation done? Do
you
> see significant expansion/contraction with humidity cycles?
> 2. I recently purchased a new truck (Ram with Hemi) and the hitch receiver
> is 3" higher than my old truck. I will have to have a custom drop bar made
> to accommodate my Reese hitch. I also have a problem dragging the rear of
> the trailer when I park it at home because of the sharp rise of the
> driveway/parking area. This has also been a problem in some places where
> there is a deep gutter at the exit of a filling station. I tend also to
use
> remote campgrounds that don't have easy terrain. I thought that another
> solution to the problem would be to put a 3" spacer between the axels and
> frame with a bolt welded in for the shocks. This would give me 3" more
> ground clearance and probably not affect towing stability.
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Ernie Swihart
> Minnetonka MN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:24:03 +0900
From: Jeffrey Fryckman <fryckman@xxxxxxxxxx.att.ne.jp>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Shower curtain glides

Hello All:

I've been enjoying the information/exchanges.

I live in Tokyo, but I have a '52/'53? Flying Cloud (rectangular tail 
lights) that I and my father are trying to restore in CA.  It is in very 
good shape, except for the floor, which we have removed.  I have been 
reading up on "shell on" vs "shell off" replacements and would like to 
do the "shell on" type.  We purchased "good" plywood and started the 
process, but my uncle has suggested that we use aluminum plating (like 
in his car trailer).  Has anyone tried/considered this?  It seems 
logical, but...

Thanks in advance for your help/suggestions.

Jeff

P.S.  The bug is spreading.  Check out a Japanese fan's site:

http://www.airstreamcafe.jp/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:30:38 -0600
From: Kevin D Allen <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [VAL] Shower curtain glides

Greetings Jeff!

If what you are considering is having the aluminum facing up (into the
living area), Airstream actually tried something similar with an
aluminum composite floor in the Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre (1977-79).  In
the case of the Minuet, the aluminum composite had some kind of foam as
the core rather than wood and it is attached to the chassis via rivets.

With the composite used in the Minuet, the only two detractions are:

1.)  The rivets make floor covering selection more difficult.  There are
really only two options that were thought to be worth considering when
my coach was restored - - carpeting or floating laminate flooring with
what amounts to a double layer of the cushion over the floor.  I would
have preferred sheet vinyl, but opted for the more expensive Armstrong
laminate to avoid the nightmares of carpeting.

2.)  The composite used in the Argosy tends to take a set after a decade
or more of use creating something of a dip in high traffic areas that
can cause some difficulty with flooring.

The only thing that would bother me about the plywood-aluminum composite
that you are considering is how much weight it might add to the chassis.
I have heard of at least one other Flying Cloud owner who's coach is
similar in vintage to yours having problems due to overloading the
chassis as a result of changes made during the restoration process.

Good luck with your decision!

Kevin 

Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com
[mailto:valist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Fryckman
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 8:24 PM
To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Shower curtain glides

Hello All:

I've been enjoying the information/exchanges.

I live in Tokyo, but I have a '52/'53? Flying Cloud (rectangular tail 
lights) that I and my father are trying to restore in CA.  It is in very

good shape, except for the floor, which we have removed.  I have been 
reading up on "shell on" vs "shell off" replacements and would like to 
do the "shell on" type.  We purchased "good" plywood and started the 
process, but my uncle has suggested that we use aluminum plating (like 
in his car trailer).  Has anyone tried/considered this?  It seems 
logical, but...

Thanks in advance for your help/suggestions.

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 23:12:32 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: Two Questions

Hi Ernest

ERNEST SWIHART wrote:


> 1. I am considering putting in a cork floor but I live in Minnesota and
> worry that the extremes in humidity might cause difficulty with buckling of
> the cork tiles. The salesperson at Dodge-Regupol, though and Airstream owner
> herself, could not be sure I wouldn't have a problem. Do any of the people
> who've put in a cork floor have experience with extremes in humidity
> comparable to MN? What season of the year was the installation done? Do you
> see significant expansion/contraction with humidity cycles?
I have a Cork floor and it survives the humidity of a NE Summer, NC 
Summer, and totally frozen Winter. The material is more flexible and 
adabtable than any other flooring. I have it everywhere, even in the 
bathroom where sometimes the whole floor gets wet . Not a problem.

http://home.tiac.net/~jtdjtd/aspix/floor.html



> 2. I recently purchased a new truck (Ram with Hemi) and the hitch receiver
> is 3" higher than my old truck. I will have to have a custom drop bar made
> to accommodate my Reese hitch. 

Go to a Horse trailer place, they carry all kinds of drops and 
adjustable ones too, no need for custom, unless it's free....

I also have a problem dragging the rear of
> the trailer when I park it at home because of the sharp rise of the
> driveway/parking area. This has also been a problem in some places where
> there is a deep gutter at the exit of a filling station. I tend also to use
> remote campgrounds that don't have easy terrain. I thought that another
> solution to the problem would be to put a 3" spacer between the axels and
> frame with a bolt welded in for the shocks. This would give me 3" more
> ground clearance and probably not affect towing stability.
I'll pass on this one. I did see a little airstream that had been 
mounted way up in the air on a truck chassis, to use as a sheep herders 
house out west.

Daisy

> Any thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Ernie Swihart
> Minnetonka MN 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html

------------------------------

End of VAL Digest V1 #135
*************************


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