The Vintage Airstream E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
VAL Digest V1 #112
VAL Digest Tuesday, December 30 2003 Volume 01 : Number 112
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
Re: [VAL] Portable AC
Re: [VAL] Portable AC
Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Re: [VAL] Re: Reese question
Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
[VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
[VAL] RE: Traveler
[VAL] Portable AC
Re: [VAL] Portable AC
[VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #111 - Portable A/C
Re: [VAL] Portable AC
Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
[VAL] tire skids
Re: [VAL] Portable AC
Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
Re: [VAL] Portable AC
Re: [VAL] tire skids
Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
Re: [VAL] tire skids
Re: [VAL] tire skids
Re: [VAL] tire skids
Re: [VAL] tire skids
Re: [VAL] tire skids
Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Re: [VAL] tire skids
Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Re: [VAL] Portable AC
Re: [VAL] Portable AC
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:38:15 -0500
From: "publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com" <publisher@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] Maurice Tierney Out of Office
I will be out of the office from December 15th through December 31st. Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 00:44:29 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 23:09:45 -0600, "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer"
<geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>But you CAN'T recirculate the OUTSIDE air that the AC needs for cooling.
>It quits working when the inlet air is too hot. You still need separated
>air vents for the unit to function, whether bringing in fresh air or
>not. The refrigeration cycle doesn't work with really hot exhaust air
>recirculation to the outside vent inlet. The machine MUST be cooled by
>fresh
who in the world even mentioned outside air. that is handled by the cooling fan
outside of the cooled space. outside air is blown over the compressor and the
evaporator? coils where the heat accumulated from inside the cooled space is
released as the gas is made into liquid as the heat is released.
you have me totally confused. I am talking cooled space completely and telling
people not to cut any inlet holes from the outside into the cooled space and now
you are talking about the other half of the cooling cycle.
frustrated and confused.
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton, chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
- ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:36:51 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 23:09:45 -0600, "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer"
<geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>The machine MUST be cooled by fresh air.
yes it is, but OUTSIDE the cooled area. that is a function of outside cooling.
iow, it is done on the roof of the trailer.
Again, we are not talking opening the fresh air vent. when you do that, you
reduce the efficiency of the inside cooling.
When you MAX cool, you are constantly recooling the already cooled air. This
can lead to stagnation of air inside but so be it.
If you have to open the outside vent to admit fresh outside air, then wait to do
so until the outside temp is less than or equal to the inside cooled area. And
yes, it is possible to be pulling super heated air from off the evap coils and
compressor. Best, simply open a couple of windows a little instead. or a roof
vent with a fan. but wait until it cools off outside. meantime, keep the AC
set on MAX or inside recirculation.
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton, chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
- ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 05:09:17 -0500
From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Glyn, I believe the sink covers were an option on my '68 and your '69
models. They may be standard now. The underside of the Formica you see
pictured is a chopping block surface cut to fit in the contour of the sink
"hole" and the Formica lip keep it in place on the rim of the sink.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Glyn Judson" <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 11:59 PM
Subject: [VAL] Sink cover?
> All,
>
> I keep seeing galley photos of covers over sinks. In the one
referenced
> below, it clearly appears to be Formica, but are there keepers on the
> underside to hold it in place?
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2451404230&cat
> egory=50063
>
> If so, what form did they take, epoxied 1/2" plywood? Were the 1969
> models so equipped?
>
> Someone has epoxy painted all my yellow Formica surfaces a shiny beige
> and I'd like to return the galley and refrigerator top surfaces to what
they
> were and while at it, make one of those covers if applicable.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn Judson
> 1969 Caravel
> Santa Monica CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 05:22:21 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Jim,
Ah, of course a chopping block. Thank you, I should have thought that
one through on my own.
Regards,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel
Santa Monica CA
> From: "Jim Greene" <drgreene@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Glyn...............The underside of the Formica you see
> pictured is a chopping block surface cut to fit in the contour of the sink
> "hole" and the Formica lip keep it in place on the rim of the sink.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 07:37:26 -0600
From: DL <dean@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Re: Reese question
If I remember they were just a paper sticker on the side.
It came off in a couple of years of use.
73
Dean L W5GXL
On Dec 28, 2003, at 5:54 PM, Gary Quamen wrote:
>> I don't see
>> any numbers on my bars and I'd like the lightest for my Bambi.
>> Jim
>
> Hey Jim:
>
> FWIW, the 550# weight number is stamped on the round end that goes up
> into
> the hitch trunion on my EAZ-LIFT bars. Maybe Reese is the same?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:49:39 -0600
From: overlander64 <overlander64@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Greetings Glyn!
On my '64 Overlander, the formica sink covers were a $6.00
option. The center portion of each cover is 3/4" plywood
that is shaped to fit the contours of the sink bowl. A 1/4"
plywood top (to which formica matching that of the
countertop has been glued) shaped to cover the perimeters of
the sink itself. Each of the covers has a 1" hole drilled
centered in the top edge to act as a finger hold when
removing the covers.
I don't know if this would have been the case with your
later model Caravel.
Good luck with your investigation!
Kevin
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Agrosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado
Convertible
> All,
>
> I keep seeing galley photos of covers over sinks. In
> the one referenced below, it clearly appears to be Formica
> , but are there keepers on the underside to hold it in
> place?
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2451404230&cat
> egory=50063
>
> If so, what form did they take, epoxied 1/2" plywood?
> Were the 1969 models so equipped?
>
> Someone has epoxy painted all my yellow Formica
> surfaces a shiny beige and I'd like to return the galley
> and refrigerator top surfaces to what they were and while
> at it, make one of those covers if applicable.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glyn Judson
> 1969 Caravel
> Santa Monica CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 07:35:28 -0800
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
I get them from http://www.airpartsinc.com
but they don't show them on the website, only the print catalog, but you
can always phone them. I think they are size 6-32, but would need to
verify.
installed pics here:
http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/restoration/windows.html
(The airparts address is wrong on the page)
Best of luck,
RJ
>
> Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 16:13:00 -0800
> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
> Subject: [VAL] Sheet metal nuts
>
> In removing the window panes and attendant hardware from the '56
> Bubble, I noticed the unique structure of the small screws and nuts
> (sheet metal type) that hold the aluminum window inserts that
> in turn,
> hold in the window glass. The screws have washer head and the
> nuts are
> "hollow" hex nuts. I have been on the computer all afternoon
> trying to
> find a source for the nuts - they're not U nor J nuts, just
> simple hex
> nuts that are not solid but hollow. anyone know a source for them?
> Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 07:38:36 -0800
From: RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] RE: Traveler
Jim,
I think you are thinking of the 22 foot "World Traveler", not the more
common 18 foot Traveler.
Later,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
>
> Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 17:29:44 -0500
> From: "Jim Stewart" <9stewart@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: [VAL] Traveler
>
> Ed, is your Traveler the one pictured in the Airstream
> archives photo web
> site? That site says there were only 7 Travelers made in 1958
> & 59. That would
> make yours one of the rarest of the rare.
> Jim
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:38:43 -0500
From: Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [VAL] Portable AC
Hey Guys, I have a Toyotomi AC and it has an air intake for the
room air and one for the condenser. Therefore, I will cut another
hole in the "plexiglas" and not in the aluminum for the intake
air for the condenser. I plan to get some duct used on your
dryer vent to carry the outside air to the AC. The only holes to
be cut will be in the plexiglas that fits in the front window
when the window is raised. Again, when you ask questions here
there are many sides of the question answered and that is great
for we novices with skint knuckles and sweating brows need all
the help we can get. Someday when i learn how to post pics on
Yahoo maybe you will get to see the "Old Girl" in here pristine
alumi-beauty!! :>)
Incidentally, to the lady who got a Cyclo buffer etc.
I'm not sure they really love someone they would give that
modern "torture machine" to!!! :) :)
Jerry <><
57 Overlander
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 09:50:29 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
But we are also talking about putting the AC in a cabinet and there the
need for addition holes for external air circulation IS important.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:47:16 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [VAL] Re: VAL Digest V1 #111 - Portable A/C
Sorry. I thought it would be understood that the air under discussion is
the condenser air supply, not the evaporator (inside coil that the cool
air comes out of) air.
On an auto A/C the condenser is the coil in front of the radiator (99% of
installations). It draws air from in front of the condenser and exhausts
it out the back through the engine coolant radiator into the engine
compartment.
On a house A/C the condenser is the coil on the outside of the house,
either in the part sticking out the window or in the unit sitting outside
the house. They draw air usually from the sides and blow it through the
condenser out the back of the condenser.
In the portable roll-around units mentioned, the "outside" condenser is
physically inside the house, but it has to have its air ducted outside.
If it does not have both an intake duct and an exhaust duct, only an
exhaust duct, it will draw its condenser air from the already-cooled air
inside the house. This is highly inefficient, far worse than a furnace
that draws only its combustion air from the interior, as the volume of
air drawn from the interior is much greater for an A/C. (All RV furnaces
I know of draw their combustion air from the outside.)
Most of us do not run the vehicle A/C on recirc except when cooling down
on a hot day or when we're about to run through a cloud of dust or smoke.
Even on recirc all auto front A/C units still pull some air from the
outside - it's a safety feature to keep any exhaust gases from being
drawn into the cabin from the rear. This is just the opposite of house
A/C which is normally recirc only, and on "exhaust" diverts only a small
fraction of the indoors air to the outside, which is of course made up by
infiltration (window and door leaks) air.
"if the damper is closed, the ac unit draws in air from inside the
vehicle/trailer, runs it over the coil and then blows it back out."
This is the evaporator air, not the condenser air, which was what was
under discussion.
Al G.
>
> Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 12:46:11 -0600
> From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
>
> On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 10:56:58 -0500, Jerry Jarrell <jdj2@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >> Having only a hot air exhaust means the A/C is sucking a lot of
outside air in through air leaks here, there and everywhere. All that hot
outside air has to be cooled, so it really loads the system. A/C's are
usually set up to recirculate on the interior (cooling) side, not to draw
from outside like an automobile A/C. The unit needs to have an outside
air intake duct along with the hot air exhaust duct.
In the units under discussion (portable A/C's) the condenser is
physically inside the trailer (or house) but you want it circulating ONLY
outside air.
Most of our trailers
> >> Al Grayson
>
> I really would like to know more about this person's expertise, if any.
> auto and RV ac units CAN exhaust and take in (fresh air exchange)
outside air.
> BUT, if the damper is closed, the ac unit draws in air from inside the
vehicle/trailer, runs it over the coil and then blows it back out.
> NO outside air is pulled in and you certainly do not want to add an
outside air hole to your trailer.!! You do NOT want to be cooling
outside mid day desert air when you should only be cooling the air inside
the trailer. Any outside air that does get in thru leaking vents, etc is
acceptable because it keeps you from getting sick. from everything from
Legionnaire's to CO poisoning.
>
> I would urge you to think about what some of the people - not only on
this elist but any elist - are saying and then apply some common sense.
Along with that, go to your local dealership (Ford is fine) and ask the
AC guy about how the AC works. you will quickly find out that the only
fresh air vent you need is the one the AC unit comes with. further, that
inside cooling or the MAX cooling setting, is only recirculating the air
inside the vehicle.
>
> enuff
> chas
> - --
> Charles L Hamilton, chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net Houston, TX
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 13:15:17 -0500
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
Hi Guys,
Haven't been paying a lot of attention to the thread; however, messing up a
window on an Airstream sends shutters.
Have there been posts where the intake air is drawn through the floor, much
like the refrigerator? Thought there was a lot of discussion in past posts
where the AC was installed under a bench, rather than on the roof. My
Argosy had an owner installed AC on the roof and bracing was not added per
installation specifications. Think there was no intention of towing. So,
with towing, lots of rivets break and develop roof leaks. I realize that
space is at a premium in any travel unit. But there has to be a way to
install an AC without destroying the aesthetics of the Airstream?
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 12:35:09 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
yea TEam!!! I found them at the bottom of page 8 I think. Gerald had
said they're called Palnuts and there they were. I LOVE IT when that
happens - thanks a bunch RJ - you wouldn't believe the time I've put
into reclaiming the old ones. I'm ordering a bunch of them.
Jo Ann
P.S. What does "size 6-32" mean? Is that the size you think I need? jw
On 29, Dec 2003, at 7:35 AM, RJ.Dial@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> I get them from http://www.airpartsinc.com
> but they don't show them on the website, only the print catalog, but
> you
> can always phone them. I think they are size 6-32, but would need to
> verify.
>
> installed pics here:
> http://vintageairstream.com/floyd/restoration/windows.html
>
> (The airparts address is wrong on the page)
>
> Best of luck,
> RJ
>
>>
>> Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 16:13:00 -0800
>> From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
>> Subject: [VAL] Sheet metal nuts
>>
>> In removing the window panes and attendant hardware from the '56
>> Bubble, I noticed the unique structure of the small screws and nuts
>> (sheet metal type) that hold the aluminum window inserts that
>> in turn,
>> hold in the window glass. The screws have washer head and the
>> nuts are
>> "hollow" hex nuts. I have been on the computer all afternoon
>> trying to
>> find a source for the nuts - they're not U nor J nuts, just
>> simple hex
>> nuts that are not solid but hollow. anyone know a source for them?
>> Jo Ann
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:13:07 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [VAL] tire skids
hello all
i had been reading the smartire thread with interest when one of my hot
questions got answered. i had no idea what those blasted spring steel
contraptions were hanging down from my axle in the newly purchased 66 safari.
now i know...... but can you tell me,, are they truely worth keeping and were
they an airstream product from the factory or an after market type product?
"laying a new vinyl floor is tough when its 20 degrees, anyone want a box of
asbestos?"
harry truitt
franktown co
66 safari
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:58:40 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 09:50:29 -0600, "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer"
<geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>But we are also talking about putting the AC in a cabinet and there the
>need for addition holes for external air circulation IS important.
>
>Gerald J.
oh absolutely~~!!!
any reason the existing "plenum" of the refrigerator could not be used?
thanks
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton - Houston, TX - chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net
Very best Wishes for Health and Prosperity to You and Yours
in the coming New Year. Happy Holidays!
Owner of Cast Bullet and Black Powder elists RKBA!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 15:08:36 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
The number 6 is the diameter of the screw, just a hair under 5/32", the
32 is the number of threads per inch. 32 is most common for #6 screws.
Personally so long as the correct police aren't looking, I'd prefer to
use aluminum screws and nuts or else stainless steel because in my
experience, the palnut steel will rust as soon as it gets a little
moisture. And being against aluminum makes a little battery that
guarantees rust. Stainless steel is good, (and strong), but aluminum
will give the least corrosion over the long run. Either might need a
drop of loctite to give the locking feature of the Palnut.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 13:25:13 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
I know Gerald - my sheet metal man told me the same thing but neither
of you have considered the "cute factor" which automatically cancels
out all logic. I'm going for it. I figure the originals (which I agree,
mostly were rusty) lasted for 47 yrs at which time I'll be 111 yrs old
so that's probably long enough.
Jo Ann
On 29, Dec 2003, at 1:08 PM, Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
wrote:
> The number 6 is the diameter of the screw, just a hair under 5/32", the
> 32 is the number of threads per inch. 32 is most common for #6 screws.
>
> Personally so long as the correct police aren't looking, I'd prefer to
> use aluminum screws and nuts or else stainless steel because in my
> experience, the palnut steel will rust as soon as it gets a little
> moisture. And being against aluminum makes a little battery that
> guarantees rust. Stainless steel is good, (and strong), but aluminum
> will give the least corrosion over the long run. Either might need a
> drop of loctite to give the locking feature of the Palnut.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:02:56 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
After cutting my fingers on Palnuts and seeing them rust next to
aluminum and having to rip them off when they cut the threads off my
screws, they aren't my favorite nuts. They load only one thread of the
screw and while they bite in to lock they also damage that thread so no
standard nut will fit and I've had them ring the screw so that they
wouldn't come off either. A standard nut will load about 3 threads of
the screw and hardly ever strips the screw like a Palnut will.
Palnuts are great for locking connecting rod nuts inside an engine
sprayed with oil and next to steel parts all their life. Against damp
aluminum, they are not my choice of a good fastener. They are junk in
that application. Not cute when I remember the damages to me and the
screws I've seen them on. Their steel is harder than my diagonal cutters
that I've had to damage cutting the Palnut away.
Gerald J.
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:02:51 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
The AC needs a lot more outside air than the refrigerator. That plenum
could be used for the AC but I suspect the amount of air its fan would
move would blow out the flame of the refrigerator the before the AC fan
got up to speed. That plenum is large enough to flow the little heat of
the refrigerator at low velocity, the AC would need a fairly high
velocity (handling probably 50 or 100 times the btus) but would function
at the cost of the refrigerator working. Now if the refrigerator had a
compressor instead of a flame...
Gerald J.
schuetzen - RKBA! wrote:
>
>
> any reason the existing "plenum" of the refrigerator could not be used?
> thanks
> chas
> --
- --
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:33:58 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
> hello all
> i had been reading the smartire thread with interest when one of my hot
> questions got answered. i had no idea what those blasted spring steel
> contraptions were hanging down from my axle in the newly purchased 66
safari.
> now i know...... but can you tell me,, are they truely worth keeping and
were
> they an airstream product from the factory or an after market type
product?
>
> "laying a new vinyl floor is tough when its 20 degrees, anyone want a box
of
> asbestos?"
>
> harry truitt
> franktown co
> 66 safari
Hi Harry:
If these skids are bolted to the axle tube itself you might want to consider
the forces that would be imposed on that structure (hollow structural tube
with rubber billets inside) when the trailer weight is suddenly dropped on
it, as well as any drag induced torsion. I personally wouldn't use these
things myself FWIW. If they were attached to the frame...maybe.
GQ '67 Safari
4082 in CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 14:52:20 -0800
From: Joann Wheatley <jwheatle@xxxxxxxxxx.edu>
Subject: Re: [VAL] RE: Sheet metal nuts
Gerald: Sounds like you have some deep personal feelings about those
cute little nuts. I think I'll put some Sally Hansen "Hard As Nails"
clear polish on them.
Jo Ann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:56:49 -0500
From: Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
I can vouch for them as they kept my coach upright when the lug bolts sheared off the
brake drum, and wheel and tire all came off at 40mph on a two lane curve in southern
Ohio a year ago last May. A Previous Owner had put on several lug bolts which were woefully
underrated. Somehow I was naive enough to trust that my lug bolts were okay- go figure...
I put up a detailed description of the accident and what happened during the action of the
skid and how it truly saved my rig. While other speculate I have had the experience. For
single axle rigs with high center of gravity (id est taller than a pop up), they are an
unconventional, but not such a crazy idea. The discussion should be in the list archives
somewhere. The only draw back to them is everyone at filling stations stop me and try to
tell me I have "a broken leaf spring."
Write back off list, anyone, if you can't find needed details. My coach: 1966 Safari Double.
Alex In Indiana (soon to be Port O' Call)
66 Safari & Overlander
WBCCI #8728
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:14:20 -0600
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
All this information on tire skids. Are these bolted on or welded. I
understand that the heat can damage the rubber.
>
> Alex In Indiana (soon to be Port O' Call)
> 66 Safari & Overlander
> WBCCI #8728
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:22:48 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
hi gq
when i first glanced under the trailer, i thought i had broken leaf springs,
then later determined that they were not. i see your point about the loads
imposed on the axle when riding on the skids. best to remove them it seems,
however i have seen pictures of damage caused to the body of airstreams when
blowouts occur and it is not a pretty picture. thanks for your input.
harry
franktown co
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Quamen" <g_quamen@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
I personally wouldn't use these
> things myself FWIW. If they were attached to the frame...maybe.
>
> GQ '67 Safari
> 4082 in CA
>
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> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:30:05 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
thanks alex, i will check the archives as well.
harry truitt
franktown co
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
> I put up a detailed description of the accident and what happened during
the action of the skid and how it truly saved my rig. While other speculate
I have had the experience. For single axle rigs with high center of gravity
(id est taller than a pop up), they are an unconventional, but not such a
crazy idea. The discussion should be in the list archives somewhere. The
only draw back to them is everyone at filling stations stop me and try to
tell me I have "a broken leaf spring."
>
> Write back off list, anyone, if you can't find needed details. My coach:
1966 Safari Double.
>
>
> Alex In Indiana (soon to be Port O' Call)
> 66 Safari & Overlander
> WBCCI #8728
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:38:49 -0700
From: "Stan Truitt" <stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
mine are bolted on using flat base u bolts. no welding or holes drilled in
the axle
harry truitt
franktown co
66 safari
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Childress" <daniel@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:14 PM
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Alexkensington@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
>
>
> All this information on tire skids. Are these bolted on or welded. I
> understand that the heat can damage the rubber.
>
> >
> > Alex In Indiana (soon to be Port O' Call)
> > 66 Safari & Overlander
> > WBCCI #8728
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 20:52:49 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Glyn, On my '73 there is a piece of sort of butcher block on the
underside. It looks like it wants to be a cutting board. It is inset
maybe 2 inches so the wood is inside the sink and the formica sits
inside the trim ring. I think there are probably two of them originally..
Do you need photos ? Measurements ?
Daisy
Glyn Judson wrote:
> All,
>
> I keep seeing galley photos of covers over sinks. In the one referenced
> below, it clearly appears to be Formica, but are there keepers on the
> underside to hold it in place?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 20:00:57 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <stream2699@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] tire skids
Hi All,
I noticed last night, with Rob's help, that one of my tire skids is missing.
Hope someone behind me didn't find it the hard way. I have no idea where I
lost it. I obviously have two options; replace the lost one or remove the
existing one. Yes, I have been asked by several folks what it is. When I
explain it to them, they seem to get it and walk away shaking their heads.
Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I plan on having another
fabricated and re-installed. The factory must have known what they were
doing and thought it necessary on a single axle unit.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind Twin
VAC #2699, TCT
on 12/29/03 4:38 PM, Stan Truitt at stan.truitt@xxxxxxxxxx.com wrote:
> mine are bolted on using flat base u bolts. no welding or holes drilled in
> the axle
>
> harry truitt
> franktown co
> 66 safari
>>
>>
>> All this information on tire skids. Are these bolted on or welded. I
>> understand that the heat can damage the rubber.
>>
>>>
>>> Alex In Indiana (soon to be Port O' Call)
>>> 66 Safari & Overlander
>>> WBCCI #8728
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 19:18:01 -0800
From: Glyn Judson <glynjudson@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
Daisy,
Thank you kindly but I think I get the picture (pun intended) and will
be able to make my own cover/cutting board.
I took another look at the counter top this afternoon and see that the
splash to the rear of the galley is fastened to the inner skin from the
outside, as the one to the left is. I can get to the fasteners on the left
one from the hanging locker but the rear one will have to stay in place. I
spoke to some handy men this morning at breakfast and they recommended using
a heat gun to remove the old Formica and to also use it when shaping the
radius for the rear splash.
Thoughts anyone as I've never removed this stuff before?
Regards,
Glyn Judson
1969 Caravel
Santa Monica CA
> From: Daisy Welch <jtdjtd@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
> Reply-To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 20:52:49 -0500
> To: valist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
> Subject: Re: [VAL] Sink cover?
>
> Glyn, On my '73 there is a piece of sort of butcher block on the
> underside. It looks like it wants to be a cutting board. It is inset
> maybe 2 inches so the wood is inside the sink and the formica sits
> inside the trim ring. I think there are probably two of them originally..
>
> Do you need photos ? Measurements ?
>
> Daisy
>
> Glyn Judson wrote:
>> All,
>>
>> I keep seeing galley photos of covers over sinks. In the one referenced
>> below, it clearly appears to be Formica, but are there keepers on the
>> underside to hold it in place?
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message. please delete all unnecessary original text
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/VAC/VAList/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 23:29:29 EST
From: M1492@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
in my 67 safari, I moved the battery up behind the gas tanks, put a small
room ac
under the side couch with a 6'' stove pipe out the bottom of the trailer with
a screen
on it hooked to side of the ac, the bat door on the side of trailer is held
open to let
the hot air out.-----
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:52:52 -0600
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [VAL] Portable AC
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:02:51 -0600, "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer"
<geraldj@xxxxxxxxxx.net> wrote:
>The AC needs a lot more outside air than the refrigerator. That plenum
>could be used for the AC but I suspect the amount of air its fan would
>move would blow out the flame of the refrigerator the before the AC fan
>got up to speed
but would work for those people who absolutely will NOT light or run their
coolers on gas... however, you are certainly right, still might work if you put
a partial baffle into the plenum just below the inflow of the AC air and
blocking such from going down. would certainly create a helluva venturi effect
for those stagnant problems in midsummer AZ<G>.
well, lets see what else. one of the old fashioned water heater external
baffle/covers might do but would be too highly restrictive again. hmmm. I would
be tempted to use one of the flat clothes dryer vent pipes which is installed in
the 3 or 4" deep space between the wall and the dryer and which then vents out
the wall vent as usual. iow, long rectangular box with round hole on each end.
then cut a floor hole to feed the ac outside air and vent the other vent
pipe/box to a roof pipe much like a house water heater or furnace exhaust pipe.
would fit into the image of that age trailer.
what else....
interesting problem but we have discussed this before a year or so ago I
thought.
chas
- --
Charles L Hamilton, chasm@xxxxxxxxxx.net Houston, TX
WBCCI/WDCU #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign '02 E350 SD PSD, Prodigy, Pullrite
- ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
.
------------------------------
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