61 Streamline dented leaky roof caused rotted floor.

Streamline Message Board: Message Board Postings: 61 Streamline dented leaky roof caused rotted floor.
By Rosie Miller on Saturday, June 28, 2003 - 09:00 am:

Hi Everyone, I'm so very happy to find this website. My husband and I are "remodeling" our '61 Streamline, 24 foot (according to the title, but no name for our model?)...it is not important to us to keep it stock, we want to use it and have fun! My husband is a plumber, so we have designed a one-of-a-kind plumbing system and will have a total of 40 gallons of hot water when parked at an RV site (not when going down the road)...many other "custom" ideas too, such as, we've removed the original cute little yellow steel tub and one closet and we're putting in a tiny acrylic whirlpool tub instead (with overhead shower too, hand held and temp valve too)...so, we made all these plans and go so excited about this project we could hardly stand it...then we found out the 2 axles were shot, so we had both professionally replaced and bought all brand new tires...then we discovered the previous owner drove it into a tree or something and the roof had major dents (not seen from the inside) so we had a professional add more aluminum and paint that grey sealer over all the seams in the top (that was a few years back, so the grey sealer is pealing off now)...we didn't realize that the leaky roof had made the floor rotten until we went to replace the linoleum...we have purchased $500 worth of 3/4" thick marine plywood, 3/4" thickness is the same as the original, and we bought enough to do the entire floor, plus we have applied special waterproof sealant to both sides of the plywood too, but we have not cut any of the plywood yet because we were going to replace the entire floor in sections because we know the frame is sitting on this floor and as I've read through many messages on this message board and the Streamline manual specs also on this website, we've already discovered that the frame does not move if you remove and replace a few feet of the exterior floor at a time...but even though we have already purchased and sealed this very expensive marine plywood (that was a few years ago) since that time, we purchased a furnace at an RV show and my husband wants to install ductwork below the floor, plus our Streamline does not have an air conditioner and we were going to install one on the roof in the center vent, but now we're considering a small "basement" AC since we will have room for one inside because we've completely eliminated both water tanks with our custom plumbing system and since we did purchase a furnace and we'll have ducts (there were no original ducts), we can also connect a "basement" type AC to these ducts then we won't have to have a roof top unit to possibly get stolen, make noise and plug up one of our vents, etc...but before we can do all this, we are worried sick about the roof continuing to leak through the seams and we NEVER want to do this job ever again because we have completely dismantled almost the entire interior, the kitchen and bathroom cabinets, closets, etc...SO HERE'S MY TWO QUESTIONS/IDEAS FOR COMMENT: Is there any way to keep the roof from leaking besides resealing it every year and if so, what is the best product to seal the seams because when you drive down the road all the bumping and vibrating is always going to cause the seams to expand and contract?...Has anyone ever covered the entire top with a one solid sheet of aluminum or maybe 2 to 4 big sections? I notice on Tom's August 2000 list of sources for vintage parts, there is a place in Kent, WA that sells aluminum and we live in Spokane, WA so we could drive over there...my second question is more like an idea we are considering at this point and I'd like to know what all of you think about this...instead of using the marine plywood, we're thinking of using some of the new products made for exterior decks, etc. that are not made of wood and are completely waterproof, if we can find the correct 3/4" thickness and large enough planks so we can attach them to the iron floor joists...we have bought some L iron and know a couple welders if we have to weld in some additional perpendicular iron joists to the original joists, but we are well aware that we can't weld in very many because of the additional weight they will add...and we have had to remove some of the interior wall skin doing this work, so we're thinking of removing almost all the wall skin so we can remove all the original water damaged yucky insulation and then install some type of styrofoam insulation or any type of insulation that is waterproof and then replacing the original wall skin with the new Structoglass wall covering that is used today around tub & shower enclosures and we think much better than the wall skin used back in 1961 because it is waterproof...then the floor will be waterproof (and we will install some type of thin waterproof seal/cushion around the entire exterior edge of the floor for the walls to sit on, as was originally done according to the manual specs), we will install some type of waterproof insulation below the floor as we do this project and after all the ductworking is finished, and then almost the entire interior skin will be waterproof because it will be structoglass (and it will never have to be painted either because the color goes all the way through...(the original skin in our Streamline was painted) and all the insulation behind the new interior skin will be waterproof too, so we figure, if the roof ever does leak again, who cares!!!, we're protected because everything is waterproof, so we will never have to worry about another rot problem anywhere and we'll never have to do this awful project ever again and boy, it will be so nice when it's finally done...we do realize that all the walls, roof and floor will still have to remain "vented" so if water does get in and runs down the walls and pools in the belly pan it will dry so we don't trade a rot problem for a mold problem...WHAT DOES EVERYBODY THINK OF THIS IDEA, WE WOULD VALUE YOUR OPINIONS SO VERY MUCH BECAUSE I'VE READ DOZENS OF MESSAGES ON YOUR MESSAGE BOARD AND SO MANY OF YOU ARE SO KNOWLEDGEABLE ABOUT THESE OLD STREAMLINE TRAILERS AND WE WANT TO FIX UP OUR STREAMLINE EVEN THOUGH MOST OF OUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY THINK WE'RE NUTS, BOTH MY HUSBAND AND I ARE DETERMINED TO DO THIS EVEN THOUGH WE MAY BE MAKING A SILK PURSE OUT OF A SOW'S EAR...IF WE CAN MAKE OUR DREAM COME TRUE, IT'S GOING TO BE AN AWESOME "SILK PURSE"...and many of you may have seen this on TV too, but 2 or 3 years ago for Christmas, the famous Neiman Marcus (spelling) Department store in Texas had for their annual "his & hers" Christmas gift, a vintage trailer very similar to ours that was completely redone inside and they were selling it for around $198,000...a really decent price for a "silk purse" I'd say...but we're not doing this for the money value or anything like that, we're doing this because we love old vintage things combined with new technology for a great combination of character and comfort!...There's just one more problem I'd like some input on too: An elderly gentleman owned our Streamline for years before we bought it from him and he had not used it for a long time so it was just sitting out in a field in the country...and when we removed parts of the original rotted wood floor, I hate to be so graphic, but we discovered some dead mice skeletons and mice droppings (ICK!!!), and we think the mice got in to the belly pan below the floor through the openings in the aluminum around the tongue in the front and the belly pan is really deep in the front and shallow in the back by the bathroom, graded for drainage...but some food particles may have fell down through the floor or the mice liked the original insulation for nesting or something...because there were tons of dead skeletons and droppings (ICK!!!)...my question is: We realize these openings in the aluminum around the tongue are necessary to allow movement while driving down the road, but they are large enough for mice to get in, so my husband's idea is to have some sturdy, but flexible, stainless steel screening made (there's a place that can do this here in Spokane) and attach the screening to the outside in some kind of neat manner, just in case it ever would need to be replaced, even though we have access to these openings from the inside since we have the floor torn up, if the stainless screening every got damaged, it would be much easier to replace from the outside...DO ANY OF YOU KNOW OF ANY OTHER WAY TO PLUG UP THESE OPENINGS SO MICE, BUGS AND SPIDERS CAN'T GET IN, BUT THE TONGUE CAN STILL MOVE FREELY WITHIN THE ALUMINUM...we also considered some type of a thick rubber gasket or seal, but we aren't quite sure how to make such a large gasket or seal like we would need...THANK YOU TO EVERYONE!...Rosie Miller