Converting pressurized water system to demand

Streamline Message Board: Message Board Postings: Converting pressurized water system to demand
By James on Sunday, April 22, 2001 - 03:27 pm:

Each year when getting the trailer ready for summer,I have crossed my fingers and hoped that the original 30 gal pressurized tank had not developed a leak. Well, this year it did. It worked out for the best because it not only allowed me to convert to a 40 gallon tank but to get that heavy metal round tank out of the trailer. For those of you faced with this chore at some future date, it is not a terribly difficult task. The main concern is matching up plumbing and planning the drain and conversion.

I opted to leave the original appearance of the water fill outside which consists of a 1-1/2 inch threaded pipe and cap. The inside was changed so it could be reduced to a smaller size allowing for the plastic filler hose to connect to the tank. The total cost of materials including the pump, tank and miscellaneous tubing etc. came to $235.00. Not too bad for about three hours work. Fortunately, I have a double sized bed in the 72 Streamline which allows plenty of room for a rectangular plastic tank. I managed to re-use as much as I could to prevent added costs. Having the added water capacity surely will make extended weekends more pleasurable!

By Tom Patterson on Sunday, April 22, 2001 - 06:50 pm:

Hi James,

I had mine on the '65 converted several years ago when it started leaking. On the 22' trailer, it was in the very back and was too big to remove through either the back hatch or by coming through on the inside. As as result, it had to be cut in two pieces before it could be removed.

You were more fortunate in having an easier removal.

By James on Tuesday, April 24, 2001 - 07:58 pm:

Tom-
That is very true with a smaller rig. I think the later ones typically installed the tank under the bed. I had really dreaded this job and knew that one day it must be done. The new pump will run more because of the demand system but I could not justify replacing the tank with another 30 gallon with the air pump. I think in the long run not having the system under high pressure will be much easier. The majority of my camping is remote with no hookups so I think I will benefit from this arrangement. I may consider adding another battery to the front deck to allow for the constant need for a pump when water is needed. The old system could be manually pressurized if all power was lost. Oh well, this is progress.

How is the motorhome coming along? I have not seen any pictures lately.

By MikeKinney on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 05:24 pm:

Hi James
I also have the pressure system in my coach. It developed a leak in the drain which I had to remove the tanks to repair. It was a difficult task for one person but managable. I like the pressure system so I repaired and reinstalled it. I will send pics to Tom since I am not sure how to post them. With the pressure system I can pressurize the tanks from a garden hose, spare tire or gas station air tank if my on board compressor should fail. This would give me enough water to flush or cook for about one day per charge. If I installed an accumulator (press tank)it would last even longer. Also at night I turn the compressor off and the wife can still use the head without pump noise awakening me. A real plus.
Mike

By Tom Patterson on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 07:42 pm:

Here are Mike's pictures.

Water008


jan01036


Water005


Water006


Water007


jan01028

By Tom Patterson on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 03:25 am:

Mike,
Looking at your pictures, it looks as if Streamline put the same tanks into their Travel Home as they did into the 70's model trailers, except two of them, rather than one as is in my '72 trailer. My Travel Home has already had the water tank replaced. A letter I found from the former owner dated September 1983, indicated that the unit had a "New enlarged stainless steel water tank with Par demand pump". I have no idea as yet what the size is, nor have I yet tried using the tank.

By James on Saturday, May 05, 2001 - 07:34 pm:

Mike-

I sure am glad that you could fix and re-use your tank set-up. I also liked the pressurized system because it would hold pressure for a full day without running the pump. I had talked to old timers through the years and always heard that patches would not hold on the old glass lined tanks. I am not sure if that is true or not but my tank was a green color unlike your stainless tanks. I could imagine that my tank was full of rust because I could see the flakes when I winterized and drained the system. Since I only had the single 30 gal tank, it was nice to upgrade to the 40 gallon demand. The thing that I dreaded the most is already bugging me! That pump is so loud and the constant on and off will drive a person crazy. I did make sure my pipes were attached secrely to the walls and plan to build an insulated box to put over the pump which is directly under the bed. I am pleased that I could retain the original fill pipe from the outside. I try to keep everything as original as possible. My coleman air pump was the original and worked perfect. I just gave it away to my RV mechanic who will come out and help me with things on the trailer. He appreciates the older trailers the way we do.

By MikeKinney on Sunday, May 06, 2001 - 09:56 am:

Hi James
It seems no matter how much we try there is always something amis with the water system. A very large accumulator or perhaps two in the line may help reduce pump cycling. It has also been my experience that not mounting the pump on the floor or other solid objects helps. I got my best results when mounting the water pump on my boat by fixing a thick rubber block,about four inches thick, to the floor and mounting the pump to it. Then I set an insulated box over it. Good luck on your project.
Mike

By James on Tuesday, May 15, 2001 - 05:01 pm:

Mike-

I realized this past week that the noise from the demand pump itself is not the problem. It is actually very quiet. The noise is the vibration of the copper lines when water is forced through them and they vibrate against the side of the interior walls where they are located. They are all secured to the walls fine and still have the rubber grommets around the original connection. I have checked all of them thoroughly and will have to just live with it. It is loudest in the rear bathroom and I believe where the pipes circle around the back corner of the trailer into the trunk area where they feed the bath sink and shower. I do not think it is worth replacing those pipes to quiet the system. Thanks for your input.

By Al Cottler on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 11:10 pm:

Hi guys,
For what it's worth, my Travel Car has a rectangular tank, hung outside like a gas tank. No rust. Yet.
Also have the air pressure system, first time for me. After years of suffering with demand pumps on my boats and previous MH, IMHO the air pressure system is far preferable - for all the reasons Mike cited, plus much better pressure at the shower and no pulsing.
If anyone else is converting to demand, I would be interested in picking up a good used air pump.

-Cheers, Al

By Ron Rounds on Tuesday, January 06, 2004 - 10:33 am:

I have a 63 Duchess 22' sn 5106 that has a demand water system, solar panel wind deflector in front of the AC unit. Nearly original with twin beds midship, bath aft, and kitchen nook/bed forward. Near new tires,new dual propane tanks and batteries. Everything works, not great but good. We are going to upgrade to a fifth wheel. 4.5K OBO
Located Lake Havasu City, AZ.
Also have the pressure pump removed from the old pressure water system. $40 plus shipping.