I HAVE A 25' DUKE REGENCY. THE UNIT HAS A PHILLIPS POWER CONVERTER. ALL WIRING HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM CONVERTER.I BELIEVE THE UNIT IS A 1973-1975 MODEL. DOES ANYONE HAVE A WIRING DIAGRAM. THANK YOU. JACK.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Sunday, November 19, 2000 - 09:42 am:

I just purchased a 1972, 31', Crown Imperial. Can't find the battery for where it should be. Found two boxes connected together with toggle switches with positions marked "transformer" and "battery". I have no manuel which shows detail. Help anyone?
Carl

By Tom Patterson on Sunday, November 19, 2000 - 10:19 pm:

The battery should be outside the trailer at the front behind the propane tanks. If you don't have a battery box, there should be at least a plate on which to mount the box, and wires to hook up to the battery. The toggle switches and boxes you mention are probably inside under the bed, and are most likely used to switch between 12V battery power when you are not connected to power, and 110-115V ac when you are hooked up.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Monday, November 20, 2000 - 03:55 pm:

Thanks Tom, for your quick reply. I have owned several Airstreams and find this somewhat different. There is a plate on the tongue behind the propane tanks. I find no wires however, to connect to the terminals. There is a small metal box mounted on the front near the plate. The boxes I mentioned are indeed under the bed. On the Airstream the the shift was automatic. Do I switch to "transformer" for AC and "battery" for DC? Also, can I use AC without a battery in place. I believe in the Airstream there had to be a battery in place. Thanks again, Carl

By Tom Patterson on Wednesday, November 22, 2000 - 09:04 am:

Carl,
I have a 1972 Duke that I am in the process of restoring, so am giving you the advice based on what little I know of it. I expect that you should be able to run the AC without a battery though. I will have to take a look at the front of my 1972 when I am over to the storage lot on Sunday to see what the front looks like and get back to you.
On my 1965, there is separate wiring for the 12V and the 110V, with no boxes such as on the 1972,and this is the trailer with which I am most familiar.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Thursday, November 23, 2000 - 09:05 am:

Tom, your help is appreciated so much. Does Streamline make a detailed manuel as Airstream does. The manual I got with the coach is very generic. About the battery, I did find about seven wires on the tongue cut off and taped together. Could this perhaps be the wires that should connect to the positive battery post? Does the ground then attach to the frame somewhere.
Carl

By Tom Patterson on Thursday, November 23, 2000 - 08:19 pm:

Carl,
I think that the wires probably are indeed for the battery, and also for the pigtail for hooking into the tow vehicle, i.e., they run the various lights, operate the trailer brakes, charge the battery etc. The only manual I have is the one on the site.
I think that I will drop James a note. He too has a 1972, and can help with this conversation.

By james on Saturday, November 25, 2000 - 04:45 pm:

Carl,
I have a 1972 Streamline Imperial and the battery is mounted on the front a-frame. If you are facing the front of the trailer, to the lower right under the a-frame and below the anodized gold trim is a small rubber grommet. There should be several wires coming out of there including the wiring to the plug for the running lights and a thicker grade of black wire. This connects to the positive side of the battery (red) to power the internal lighting when not connected to 110. The negative side of the battery is a short wire connected under the battery mounting with a screw to the trailer frame. This grounds the system. check to see if perhaps they had taped the battery wire to the running lights to get it out of the way when they took the battery off. The transformer converts 110 to 12 volt when connected to electricity. The battery option allows you to pull stored energy directly from the battery when the trailer is not connected to 110. I do not believe there is a battery charger involved here. Mine has been changed to a regular converter over the years but I am familiar with the transformer set up because I have a friend that has a '71 Streamline. Hope this helps and the AC is 110 only. Although the furnace should operate on 12 volt.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Sunday, November 26, 2000 - 06:30 pm:

Thank you James,
All of this information is helping me. I will investigate this situation more carefully and keep in touch. Now that I know more what I am looking for perhaps I can reach a conclusion.
Thanks again,
Carl

By james on Saturday, January 06, 2001 - 06:21 pm:

Keep us posted on what you find out?

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Saturday, January 06, 2001 - 10:42 pm:

Hi James,
With the help of you guys I am making some progress. I decided it was safe to connect the 110 current. Most things seem to function. The radio/tape deck did not, perhaps this is DC only.
The wires you mentioned on the front seperate into three groups. One groupe goes to the plug for the tow vehicle, one group of seven is cut and taped off. Then one heavy black wire along with two white ones which are exposed under the belly, go to a box mounted about and to the right side of the grommet. Also, I notice that two wires are disconnected at the DC fuse box. Sure would help if a detailed manual was available. I am very thankful for any help.
Carl

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Sunday, January 07, 2001 - 07:38 am:

James,
I ment to mentioned something else I found that puzzles me. There is a switch, the same type that is on the roof exhaust fans, located under the radio/tape player near the window. Can't figure what it goes to. Any idea?
Carl

By james on Tuesday, October 24, 2000 - 01:41 pm:

I am a little baffled by the groups to be honest with you. It appears that either someone re-wired everything from the back and discontinued the use of the original wiring for some reason. Or, you could have a automatic sway control unit installed after market. Does the box say "ASCS?" If so, that is probably for sway control. You did not describe the box but my 72 does not have anything mounted in that area. My radio has a volume control black knob centered under the radio near the drapery rod and was originally used to control the back/front speakers on the 8 track. My radio still connects direcly to the battery and has since I have had the RV. Probably to avoid static from the lighting. At least you narrowed down the running light harness. The 12 volt battery connection should be a single black cable coming out of the grommet. This would provide power back to the converter or terminal box to all of the separate lights from that point. The key here is if you trace the wires mounted under the trailer exposed, where do they go to???? I have no wires under the trailer so that had to be after the fact. Let me know.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Tuesday, October 24, 2000 - 02:48 pm:

James, the little flip switch that I mentioned under the radio may control speakers from front to back. Since I have no 12 volt I cannot check this as yet. About the box: it is the size of a wall switch plate cover in home use. It is metal and is about two inches deep. I removed the cover. It is a junction box. For what reason I don't know. Going into the box are the two white wires that run under the bottom (they are from the furnace and I believe this has been replaced, the outside grill over the furnace has been modified),a heavy black wire (probably the cable you mentioned), and a black wire going to the electric jack, plus a ground wire which is fastened to the frame under one of the gas tanks.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Tuesday, October 24, 2000 - 02:53 pm:

I hope you don't loose patience with me. I have so many questions. My Streamline has two dump valves. I thought it only had a black water tank. I don't find any drain valves for the system. How do I fill the fresh water tank? Does it fill automatically when connected to street water?
Thanks again,
Carl

By james on Tuesday, October 24, 2000 - 04:35 pm:

I have all the patience in the world. The 1973 was the first year that two tanks were installed for both black and gray water. If you have a 1973, this should be the case. Otherwise, you may have had some modifications made over the years by previous owners. If the water system has not been modified, there is a round metal cap filler under the bedroom window on the back side. This is the water fill for the 30 gallon tank (if it still exists under the bed.) This is a pressurized system. The pump was originally an air pump that pressurized the tank and then gravity would force the water out when a valve was opened. If you open the small compartment door under the back side, trace the city water connection from the underside and see if hopefully a shut off valve may have been added through the years inside. This would have prevented water from having to fill the water tank by bypassing it if you wanted to use city water. This would allow the city water connection to simply supply the water faucets inside and the tank could remain empty. The tank supplies fresh water when you are boondocking without any hookups. What kind of furnace did they install? Hopefully not 110 as it sounds with that wire connection. I cannot figure out why they would have routed it to the front in a juction box. I would remove all of that and keep it as original as possible. There should be service wires in the furnace compartment fed by the 12 volt system to supply power. The furnace should be 12 volt and powered by the converter on either 110/115 or battery power when no electric is available. Keep me posted and hopefully I have answered your questions. I have also found that I have had to make a gasket for the pressurized water cap out of stock because it would not hold the pressure anymore. There is not a gasked that I have found that fits.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Tuesday, October 24, 2000 - 06:18 pm:

There is no tank under the bed. This unit has had new plumbing installed. However, I thought the water tanks, both fresh and black, were under the floor. However, I see no evidence of any other place to fill a tank. There is the female end of a water hose sticking through the bottom of the trailer in this same compartment, it sticks up maybe 8 or 10" inside and is cut off. The furnance is a coleman. On my Airstreams I could run the thermostat up and the fan would come on for circulation when the furnace was not lit. I tryed doing this and nothing happened. There are also two electric heaters in the coach that look orginal. One is in the kitchen and one in the bathroom. Both have individual wall thermostats. About the box on the front, would the heavy black wire be the one to connect to the positive side of the battery and the ground wire attached to the frame to the negative side? This unit had been parked on the river for some time, don't know how long, so it seems that they have tryed to do away with the 12 volt system. I like everything to be as orginal as possible. The radio must have been replaced also since it has a cassette player and not an eight track. It is a Sony. By this unit being parked, there would have been no need to install a gray water tank. It doesn't look as if this has been changed, but there are two dump valves. About drain valves for the system, where are they. I have owned about six Airstreams but this is a new ball game. I bought this from a man who had taken it in on a land deal and he knew nothing about it.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Tuesday, October 24, 2000 - 06:28 pm:

James, there was a booklet in the trailor, I think it is the same one that Tom has on the web page, anyway it is a 1973. This trailer has almost everything that is listed for the Crown Imperial, but not everything. The title says it is a 1972,(there are some mistakes on the title) but I wonder since the '73 had a gray water tank. Just a thought . . .
Carl

By Tom Patterson on Tuesday, October 24, 2000 - 07:54 pm:

Carl,
It looks like someone has maybe removed the fresh water tank. As James said, the tank was originally under the bed. It was a 30 gal. tank, and held water which could be pressured up with either city pressure, if connected, or with a small built-in compressor when boondocking. It (and the system) was drained by opening a valve and draining the water through a line through the floor. Probably the one that you see sticking up and cut off. It sounds like a prior owner has removed and bypassed the tank.

By Tom Patterson on Wednesday, October 25, 2000 - 08:37 am:

Carl,
Here are some pictures which may show what James and I are talking about: Click on any image for a larger copy of that picture.
The first picture shows the 30 gal. fresh water tank and surrounding area. All of the cable you see is because some previous owner had spliced an extension cord to the existing power plug-in, so that now the trailer has miles and miles of cable.
The pipe in the center running off to the right is the vent pipe. The copper pipe at the top is the water inlet pipe. It leads to a line which supplies the rest of the trailer with water, and is connected to the outside inlet.
Picture number two is a close-up of the same area. It shows the electrical converter boxes, as well as the door to the outside through which the hook-up cable is run.
The third picture shows the top of the tank. This is where the valve for draining the tank and the rest of the trailer water lines is located. The valve is up against the wall next to the heating duct. When the valve is opened, the water will drain through the hose to the left of the valve, which goes down through the trailer floor.
Last, the fourth picture is taken from the other side of the wall, from within an adjoining closet. Here is the heat duct coming through the wall, and next to it, the water valve. Someone has cut a larger hole in the wall, apparently so that they could operate this valve from the closet side. To the left you see the hot water heater.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Wednesday, October 25, 2000 - 11:32 am:

You guys are great, I appreciate the help so much. Do you know whether Streamline ever printed an Owner's Manual for individual models. Boy, would it be helpful about now.
Carl

By James on Wednesday, October 25, 2000 - 01:25 pm:

Tom,
That looks like my '72 before I replaced the Hot Water Heater. It also appears that you do not have a bypass valve on your fresh water to prevent water from having to fill the tank at all times. It is certainly worth installing. The copper line that runs up from the tank opening and curves up along the bottom of the bed frame just inside the door and underneath the bottom is where I have a shut off valve installed. This will allow water from the city inlet to supply the faucets but isolate the tank. Of course this has to be opened and the water connection under the trailer capped when using from the water tank without city connections. It appears that there is some more work to do for Carl. You may want to consider installing a plastic water tank with a demand pump like "shur flow". It would not make sense to install the original connection since it has been removed. It would be cheaper and easier. Streamline probably had one general users manual as far as I know. Carl, glad you have a Coleman. That is what I have and it was probably added in the 80's. My mechanic stated that coleman no longer makes these furnaces but he replaced my board last year and it has worked perfect since then. I cannot figure out why they had wired yours separately???Or did they run separate 110 lines from the after market electric heaters? I do not think Streamline had that option. Maybe a Catalytic heater which would have been plumbed to the propane lines.

By Tom Patterson on Thursday, October 26, 2000 - 08:10 pm:

James,
I couldn't agree more about needing a bypass valve, but it will have to wait until I redo all of the water lines. Here are a couple more pictures. The first shows the water intakes. I called the large grey pipe a vent in my earlier posting. Obviously that is wrong with a pressurized system. It is the intake pipe used for manually filling the water tank. The water from the hookup comes in to the left and below the grey pipe. It is somewhat obscured by the compresser which is also to the left of the grey pipe.
You can see part of the reason I need a redo on the piping in the second photo. I found that I had five breaks in the pipes (probably from freezing) which had been repaired with short lengths of garden hose all but one of which had failed. I could not get at the one behind the toilet to replace it with copper pipe, so replaced them all with washing machine hose. It is not a great replacement, but the hose is at least sturdier than the garden hose. The second photo shows one of my replacements above the wheel well.

By Tom Patterson on Friday, October 27, 2000 - 03:31 pm:

I looked today, and my '72 has a Coleman too. There are loose wires, so I will take a picture tomorrow and post it to see if there are any suggestions as to where the wires should go.

By Tom Patterson on Sunday, October 29, 2000 - 12:29 pm:

Here are the pictures of my stove and furnace. Originally avacado green, I sprayed them an almond color. I had the top replated. The furnace is the only part of the electrical system that I have not checked out. As you can see, there are loose wires in the last two pictures. Any idea of where these should connect ?

By Tom Patterson on Sunday, October 29, 2000 - 12:47 pm:

Carl,
In the process of replacing my tongue jack, I found that the old hydraulic jac which was leaking badly, had totally soaked the hitch with old hydraulic oil, and I am having to remove everything in order to clean the surface before repainting it. When I took off the propane bottles, and the plate that holds them, I found an aluminum shield under the plate, and a teminal bar under that. This terminal bar holds all of the connections from the trailer to the wiring pigtail that connects to the tow vehicle. Thus, I should be able to help you with identifying your various wires by reference to this bar if you are interested. Following are two pictures. The first shows the hitch, and the second a closer view of the terminal bar, and also, the breakaway switch.

By James on Sunday, October 29, 2000 - 03:44 pm:

Tom,

Looks really good in white. If memory serves me, I recall a little lever that had to be pushed on that furnace when the red knob is turned and then you would light the pilot thorugh the hole. Is that missing? Another thought on the wires since they are both red...maybe they connected to a sail switch or high/low limit switch???I thought it would be logical if it may be the same circuit, maybe it would need to be interrupted if the fan speed became to low or the temperature got too hot? I think this is the original coleman the required the whole back side of the trailer to be cut out. My trailer originally had that model but thank goodness it was replaced with a solid state electronic ignition coleman in the mid 80's prior to my purchase of the unit. They used a stainless steel plate on the back to cover the rectangular hole and then cut a small hole in that off center for the new intake vent. It looks as good as it could. I think I have that same circuit connection under a cover on the front a-frame. I purchased a heating element this past weekend for the original Dometic refrigerator (just in case it goes out) and was told that they are still readily available. It went on a model RM75-A 7 cubic foot box. It cost 48.00 but is worth the peace of mind. I have a cabinet full of extra parts.

By Tom Patterson on Sunday, October 29, 2000 - 05:09 pm:

James,
I have not yet tried to light the furnace, with the loose wires, but the lighting instructions refer to some "glow" circuit, I believe, visible through the circular opening. Also, I forgot to mention in the earlier post that I had replaced the original handle on the oven door with the two cabinet pulls. If you happen to run across a real handle in your travels, please let me know.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Monday, October 30, 2000 - 05:49 am:

Tom,
My Streamline has loose wires at the tongue and at the 12 volt fuse terminal, perhaps some on the furnace, not sure yet. I am moving slowly. This is my usual pattern. When I have worked on the Airstreams I take my time. I know so little about the electrical system. The pictures are great. Do you take them with a digital?
Carl

By Tom Patterson on Monday, October 30, 2000 - 08:58 am:

Hi Carl,
Yes, the pictures were taken with a digital camera. Sure is great for quick, good pictures. Anyway, I thought that I might be able to help you with the connections, based on what I can see of my wiring at the front end. You might check and see what the colors of the loose wires you have on the front end are.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Wednesday, November 01, 2000 - 08:48 am:

Hi Guys,
I attached some jumper cables from my truck to the hot wire of the electic tongue jack and the jack works, the stereo works, and the furnace fan ran after I jiggled some wires on the thermostat. It stopped running and I jiggled the wires again, it started and ran again. Question - the furnace should also run from the transformer when connected to electrical outlet shouldn't it?
Thanks again,
Carl

By james on Wednesday, November 01, 2000 - 11:54 am:

Carl,
Your furnace should work from the transformer if wired correctly. Try plugging the trailer into 110 and move the transformer to 110 power. This will bypass the need for power from the battery. The transformer simply converts 110 down to 12 volt for the fan motor. The only concern that I have is the wiring changes that have been made.

By parsonjr@naxs.net on Thursday, November 02, 2000 - 05:04 am:

James,
The furnace will not work on the 110 v. However, I hadn't thought about it until your note came, but when I got the blower to run on the 12 v. I had the switch set on "transformer". I haven't tryed anything with it set on "battery".
Carl