Greetings...I own a 1981 Supreme Luxury Liner. When I turn on the thermostat, the fan turns on for the appropriate amount of time to clear any lingering propane, but when the pezio (sp?) lighter makes the spark, the heater doesn't ignite. There is no problem with the propane getting to the valve, I've checked it. I read somewhere that it's possible that the spark is not hot enough. Is this possible considering how volatile propane is? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. One other thing, when measuring the trailer length, do you go from the back bumper to the front of the hitch? Thanks, Jeff

By venmex on Thursday, January 20, 2005 - 11:14 am:

Greetings...I own a 1981 Supreme Luxury Liner. When I turn on the thermostat, the fan turns on for the appropriate amount of time to clear any lingering propane, but when the pezio (sp?) lighter makes the spark, the heater doesn't ignite. There is no problem with the propane getting to the valve, I've checked it. I read somewhere that it's possible that the spark is not hot enough. Is this possible considering how volatile propane is? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. One other thing, when measuring the trailer length, do you go from the back bumper to the front of the hitch? Thanks, Jeff

By Jim Jarzabek on Friday, January 21, 2005 - 01:42 pm:

Do you have to depress the pilot button to light the pilot? If so,try lighting the pilot with a match. If it stays lit after the pilot button is released then the electronic ignition is out. No big deal, you can light it with a match. If it won't stay lit when you release the button but the furnace begins to blow, you probably have a bad thermocouple. If the furnace blower doesn't come on then you may have a bad sail switch....

By venmex on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 09:47 am:

thanks so much for answering regarding my heater that won't ignite. the electronic ignition does work, but the gas won't enter the chamber in order to light. like it doesn't leave/open the gas valve. could that be the gas valve and not the thermocouple? thanks again, jeff

By Jim Jarzabek on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 10:27 am:

That could be tricky. Silver Streak used black galvanized metal pipe for propane lines. Several things could be going on. First, make sure the pressure regulator is in o.k. condition at the propane tank. Try lighting the stove burner. If you get a good even blue flame then the regulator should be o.k. If the flame is yellow or fluctuates between yellow and blue, you probably have a bad regulator and need to replace it. If the regulator is o.k., then try removing the shutoff valve supplying the furnace. Turn off the propane first. Have someone turn on the propane briefly and look for sediment or flaking or moisture coming from the pipe. This could clog the valve. I would replace the valve at this time as well as the valve to the stove. Be sure to use yellow gas tape to seal the pipe threads and not white. Then you can try vaccuming out the top of the gas valve where the flexible line enters from the shut off valve. Sediment or moisture could be clogging the propane body. If this does not take care of the problem, obtain the model number of the furnace and the three digit number (such as 809) and try to price an entire replacement gas valve body (if available). This will let you know worse case scenario. A new r.v. furnace costs as much as a low end natural gas furnace for your home and with installation can easily be $600 or more from an r.v. dealer. On the other hand, replacement parts for your furnace can be as little as $8.00 for a thermocoulpe. It is likely your furnace was never maintained. If you have the owners manual it should give you instructions on how to clean various assemblies. PLEASE do not do any of this if you are not comfortable or consider yourself handy.
Good luck!

By venmex on Monday, January 24, 2005 - 06:08 pm:

Thank you VERY MUCH to Jim Jarzabek!!!

By Al G. on Sunday, November 05, 2006 - 06:44 pm:

Black pipe required for gas, both natural and LP (Liquefied Petroleum, like propane), is not galvanized. Use of galvanized iron pipe for fuel gas is prohibited.

Poor combustion and failure to light is often caused by spiderwebs in the gas tube and/or orifice. One orifice can have black goonk in it and the burner light and work fine, and the next have only one invisible strand of spiderweb and refuse to burn cleanly or even light.
The orifice is cleaned by soaking it in alcohol, like isopropyl (70% rubbing or 91% disinfectant), and blowing through it with your breath. Not compressed air as it may send the orifice across the shop or yard never to be found. Plus, refrigerator orifices have a jeweled insert that can be blown out with compressed air.
NEVER use drills, toothpicks, etc.!!
Brush out the burner tube with an appropriately sized soft round brush.

LP pressure should be tested with a manometer at the furnace, with half of the LP-burning units in the RV going at the same time. 11" Water Column minimum, 14" maximum.

Leak test every joint that has been disturbed. Leaking LP is deadly to RVs and anyone caught inside when it burns.

Yellow Teflon tape is usually the kind made for fuel gas use but cannot be counted on. The package label should be read to make sure.