1975 Silver Streak hot water heating system

Silver Streak Message Board: Message Board Postings: 1975 Silver Streak hot water heating system
By Gail Smith on Monday, November 11, 2002 - 11:53 am:

Our wonderful old 28' Silver Streak Continental Supreme travel trailer is in desperate need of another hot water heating system and tank. We discovered a leak in our bathroom and followed it to the heating system tank. My husband (who's pretty handy with most stuff) is adamant that this is something that cannot be fixed and needs to be replaced. Does anyone know where we can get another hot water heater and tank ? Any ideas wille be appreciated.

By Tom Patterson on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 04:13 am:

I don't know about the Silver Streaks, but I have replaced hot water heaters in my Streamlines with new ones from RV suppliers such as Camping World. It should work for Silver Streaks too.

Check on the dimentions. Generally, the new ones that would fit were a smaller capacity (6 gals. vs. 10 gals.) but the supply of hot water was quite adequate.

By Richard on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 08:54 am:

I replaced my Mobile Temp in my '70 23ft with a new Suburban SW6DE (6 gallon direct spark ignition and electric). I kept the exterior flange of the Mobile Temp so I could use the original door.

By James on Tuesday, November 26, 2002 - 02:03 pm:

Gail,

Many of us have been in this same position. I would recommend replacement because repairs do not work well on these tanks.

By Al Grayson on Sunday, October 05, 2003 - 06:17 am:

Is there any way to tell if the anode rod is all used up? To get the anode rod out of my water heater the burner piping has to be removed. If the anode is about gone, and I can put a new one in, it would make the WH tank last a lot longer.

I run out of hot water quickly. I lived in a mobile some years back that had an 11 gal. electric and I had to keep it set to 180 to get a bath's worth out of it.
My '52 Spartan has a house 20 gal. WH installed in a clothes closet and I never ran out of hot water. The Spartan has a full size house bathtub, so it takes a lot of water to fill it.
Al

By Mark A. York on Sunday, January 23, 2005 - 06:51 pm:

I've done it and may be again in this position. I replaced the original 4-5 years ago with a 10 gal Suburban gas/electric. It was very easy. Seal up the cover molding well though water blew right through mine and soaked the bathroom floor. I got this one used in good condition and I'm hoping it isn't leaking now as the last one driped out the front by the burner on the outside. Did yours leak from somewhere else?

By Mark A. York on Sunday, January 23, 2005 - 06:55 pm:

I don't know about the anode. Mine is rusted on the outside. I'm afraid to pull it out but I may have to. They do save the tank but indeed how do you know when it is time?

By Al G. on Sunday, November 05, 2006 - 05:46 pm:

The way to know if the anode needs replacement is to take it out and look at it. If the steel core is visible over much of its length it's time to replace it. Many RV parts suppliers stock these. As I mentioned, mine has to have the burner and piping removed to get the rod out.

When you're draining the tank for winter is a good time to remove it as it drains the tank down to a puddle, which you can siphon out with a rubber tube.

By Al G. on Friday, November 10, 2006 - 02:56 pm:

Atwood water heaters have aluminum tanks, alcladded (aluminum allow core with thin layer of pure aluminum on the surface to resist corrosion). No anode rod needed; the alcladding serves as the anode.
Suburban WHs have steel tanks, porcelain enamel lining. When the porcelain gets a crack or pinhole in it, the steel corrodes and eventually leaks.

Some WHs operate at very high temperature, like 180 F., then mix cold water with the hot for a safe temperature. This lets the 6 or 10 gallon tank produce hot water like a considerably larger conventional WH.

Then there are the "tankless" or "instantaneous" water heaters. These have a firebox wrapped with copper tubing through which the water flows. Electric tankless WHs are not practical for RVs as they draw a LOT of current when they are heating. If you are in a park that has true 240V in the pedestals (not the 30A/20A "50A" 120V), 60 amps, you could run a small tankless. The big ones draw 80-100A (19-24KW) during heating.
So all RV tankless WHs run on propane.