Re: [A/S] Dump valve replacement

["Christopher45103" <blickcd@xxxxxxx>]

Both of my old valves were sticky also.  The real problem was that 
both had leaky seals.

For example, if I were to have left the the cap off of the sewer 
outlet while using the trailer, there would have been a slow but 
steady trickle of sewerage flowing out onto the ground.  The cap held 
all that in, but when stopping at the dump station before heading 
home, there was no way to avoid getting a gallon or so of that 
splashed all over my shoes when removing the cap to hook up the hose.

The second problem was with the black tank valve.  You might recall 
from the photos that two corners had broken off of the tank flange, 
so the valve's o-ring was not tight against flange any more, causing 
a slow drip which could be seen around the tank enclosure's access 
panel by the end of a weekend outing.

The broken corner pieces were still attached to the valve mounting 
screws, so I just cleaned and glued them back in place with the same 
ABS plastic solvent glue used on the rest of the job.

I really wanted to replace that broken flange with a new one, but it 
was solvent glued to the outlet of the tank.  No way to remove it so 
it had to be repaired in place.

The job took about a week, mainly because the valves are high end 
parts not kept in stock by my RV parts store, and had to be ordered.  
Otherwise, removing the old valves took maybe half an hour at the 
most, including removing the million screws holding the access panel 
and that extra sheet metal flap in place.  I took the old valves to 
the RV parts dealer to make sure I got the right ones.  Assembling 
everything and installing it might have taken an hour, and add 
another hour or so for the extra sheet metal work I did.  Removing 
that extra flap and enlarging the access was worth the extra trouble.

Any other questions, just ask since we seem to have the same model 
and year trailer.

Christopher