[A/S] Shell removal and more...

["William Henshall" <willy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Colin,

Well, happy to be of assistance as list folk were very helpful for me when I
was trying to figure out what to do. Yes you need to drill all the rivets
all the way round. There are some you can't see as they are inside the outer
skin too, look over the wheel arches for these....The secret is to leave the
C-channel on the floor. It is almost impossible to get to the bolts and
screws that hold this on without taking the shell off.

I enclose some instruction I got from Greg at Inland RV on what to do. It is
CRUCIAL that you brace the shell with 4x2 or the whole structure gets too
wobbly. Also brace accross the door frame.

When you support the shell after you have lifted it off (I think my shell is
about 300 lbs, maybe 350 - 2 guys can lift it at the corners) you have to
make sure it is sitting on wooden supports that sit directly under the down
struts. If the bottom of the shell outer skin is a little buckled it will
straighten out when you put it back together as long as it is slight.

Good luck! Lemme know if ther are other questions as I am right in the
middle of this this weekend and things are still fresh in my mind.

One thing I will say is that it is much easier in the end to replace the
whole floor than trying to fit new bits in over rotten bits if you have more
than an odd spot of rot.

Will





FLOOR REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE





1.     Remove interior furnishings to expose inside lower aluminum sheeting,
remove these lower sheets. Caution, when drilling out rivets, try not to
enlarge the holes as you’ll be putting new rivets back in place.



2.     Remove lower underbelly aluminum to expose outriggers and frame, best
to remove

completely.



3.     Secure 2x4 boards at front and rear main bows, thrubolt these to the
inside bows using

 ¼” bolts & nuts, these should be attached about 1 ½” above the floor,  A
3rd 2x4 should

 also be used at the top of the wheelwell to maintain shell shape



4.     Remove any fastners holding “U” or “Floor” channel to the perimeter,
screws to the floor and bolts  thru  to outriggers.



5.     Remove rivets from the wheelwells & front plate, (steel plate welded
to the front of the chassis riveted to shell).



6.     Using a longer 2x4, lever up the 2x4’s at the inside 4 corners  about
1 ½” at a time until the wheelwells are clear of the shell bottom.



         7.    Using  longer 4x4’s support the shell outside at the points
the inside 2x4’s are attached to  the shell, any number of supports can be
used, sawhorse’s, drums, (I use old tires  with rims).



8.     Now roll the chassis out from under the shell.



9.     Be very careful cutting your new floor, it must be exactly the same
size as the old, try to cut it before removing the old floor. It must also
be in the same relation to the wheelwell as the old.



10.   Remove the old flooring, install the new, good idea to put new
fiberglass on at this time too. Personally I think I’d go with ployureathane
foam, foil backed, just glue it to the new floor, give you about 8 times the
“R” factor of the old fiberglass. While the floor is off, now’s a good time
to check the frame for cracks, spots needing rewelding, a bit of light
sanding and a new coat of paint could make it last another 30-40 years!



11.        Depending on the year of your coach, a good time to check the
axle(s) for possible replacement or even upgrade from leaf springs
(pre-1961) to Henschen Torsion  Axles.



12.   Reverse procedure to reinstall