[A/S] '69 Safari Water Heater Replacement

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi All,

I uploaded a couple of pictures to the files that show my replacement of a
10 gallon Atwood with a 6 gallon Atwood.

One picture shows the new aluminum angles I installed to hold the new skin
and support the lower edge of the new water heater.

Another shows the water heater installed with the door closed.  Note that
the new skin patch at the bottom for the door will be covered, for the most
part, with the trim strip.  Eventually, the door will be painted aluminum.

Another shows the water heater door open.  The vulkem looks nasty, but I
felt it was necessary to preclude any water leakage through the water heater
housing stampings.  Note that the top and sides of the water heater housing
fit the opening perfectly.  Only needed the 4 inch patch at the bottom to
close the opening.  I used pull rivets, sheet metal screws, olympic rivets,
and lots of vulkem.

Of note is the fact that the original water housing was a structural part of
the outer skin toward the aft.  Replacement with a water heater that has a
styrofoam exterior creates problems seeking a solution.

At last, a picture of the nearly complete installation of the water heater
from the interior.  The water heater sits on a platform that is screwed to
the floor.  I've installed two straps with tensioning bolts over the
styrofoam to hold the water heater in place.  It's untested and 50 pounds is
a lot to bounce around.  I have thoughts of putting a bypass on the water
heater and only filling it when it will be used.

Appreciate any thoughts about the installation that might save me from a
future headache when I reinstall the bathroom panels and bulkheads.

                                                '69 Safari, Joy