Re: [A/S] Shocks -n- stuff

[bob basques <bob.basques@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Yeah, actually, a thunderstorm just rolled through, Bob!
> In response; the shocks are stock A/S units made to fit almost 
every trailer. I could grind the eyes down, but there is more than 3/8 
of an inch I would need to do-and the rubber bushing is integral to the 
shock eye, so I don't want to play with that.

Not that I'm trying to get out of an elegant answer, but what about just 
grinding a slot big enough to get past the end of the bolt, not al the 
way around the ring.

> The tower is 1/4" steel, and the axle is designed to pivot towards 
the nose as the wheel comes up; again, even if both wheels were off, 
there is only so far the axle will move.

How far from the bottom of the frame does the axle have to move, or is 
it not even close.

> Rather innovative, really. Few moving parts to wear out. Even the 
boat trailer manufacturers are moving to these axles!
> Having said that, let me say this-if you've never looked at your 
bearings, be prepared.

I just got done last weekend doing the bearing on my Wife's Olds Custom 
Cruiser Station Wagon. I had to change the Rotors, they were warped.  So 
I still have the grease under my fingernails.

> To get the bearings out (off), you must remove the cotter pin and 
castle nut, and slide the brake drum off;

I wanted to check out the brakes anyway, so I was just going to remove 
everything to take a look at things.

> then the entire bearing assembly can be worked on, both inner and 
outer races.
> Oh the things we play with...

You said it.

Your idea of grinding is looking more and more like the way to go.  
Maybe there is trick to these.

As far as grinding things, does the bolt go through the plate, is it 
welded or just rusted on. I wouldn't have a problem with cutting the 
bolt off the back side with a sawsall and then drilling out the bold 
from the front, then use a number 5 or 7 grade bolt to replace it. You 
could weld it on or get a threaded version that would allow for cinching 
up a nut all the way to the plate and then install the shock on the 
bolt.

Another approach could be to place the bolt into the shock with a washer 
and nut and pull through the plate from the inside out and place another 
nut on the outside, would be easier to cinch things tight this way.

Just let me know when to stop rambling.

bobb