Re: [A/S] '64 Globetrotter 19' electricals

[Jim Dunmyer <jdunmyer@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Chris,
 Sounds like you have a mellofahess on your hands. :-(

First thing, get a copy of Barre's "Managing 12 Volts" and Livingston's
"RV Maintenance and Repair". You need them both!

I think you're confusing "Inverter" and "Converter". The former is
somewhat unusual in a travel trailer; it makes 120VAC from the 12VDC
battery(s). The latter supplies 12 volt power when connected to shore
power and charges the battery. Some of them supply 12VAC for the lights
and a seperate 12VDC circuit for battery charging, others have only the
12VDC output.

The fridge PROBABLY only works on 120VAC, not 12 volts (AC or DC). It's
uncommon for TT fridges to have a 12VDC heater, but very common for MH
fridges to be so configured. The fact that your fridge won't work when
switched to "Electric" probably has nothing to do with your botched up
12-volt system.

If you have multiple charging sources such as solar, converter, and tow
vehicle, it's usual to simply have them all connected together and to
the battery. The highest-voltage source will be the one actually
charging the battery(s). I don't know what you have in your tow vehicle,
but the most common setup is to have an "isolator" between the tow
vehicle battery and the "charge" line going to the trailer connector.
Some folks use a diode isolator, others use a relay; I prefer the latter
myself.

If you want to isolate the 12 volt problems most quickly and safely,
here's what I'd do:

Disconnect most all connections, jumpers, etc. Tag the wires if you want
so you can put them back the way they were if you change your mind.
Connect the White wire to the battery; it's the negative side of the
12VDC circuit. Use a fairly heavy (brakelight) bulb between the battery
"+" and the wires you want to test instead of a fuse. If nothing is
shorted or no lights are on, the bulb should stay dark; it'll light
dimly when you energize a light on that circuit. Poke around, taking
notes as you go, and you'll figure out which wire feeds what. You'll
want a fuse block with several fuses to feed the several circuits; if
there isn't one at present, buy one and install it when you get all this
stuff figured out.

I'd use a good, fully charged battery for all this testing and have NO
connection to shore power until you get it figured out.

Leaving the converter ("inverter") output disconnected from the battery
and everything else, connect your shore power cord. Get your 120VAC
circuits working. If you have no "dual" light fixtures (with both 120
volt and 12 volt bulbs), you'll have only receptacles to worry about.
One will be behind the fridge and may be the cause of its not working on
"electric". One will have the converter plugged into it, or there will
be a pigtail from the 120VAC circuitry that is hard-wired to the
converter.

Then, check out your converter to make sure it's wired correctly and is
working. Reconnect it to the battery and trailer circuits. If it's the
kind that feeds 12VAC to the lights, etc. and switches to battery power
when disconnected from the 120VAC, you'll need to connect it
accordingly. Better yet, toss it and get a modern converter/battery
charger such as the InteliPower with Charge Wizard.

Good luck!!

                                          <<Jim>>